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Greenhouse with dirt heat accumulator

Greenhouse with dirt heat accumulator

We live in the Perm region, it’s not that Siberia, and not quite the Urals, but nearby. And the weather is appropriate - the summer is short, frosts in spring and autumn make this “short” very small. Therefore, every self-respecting gardener in our country has a greenhouse on the farm, and often more than one.

Mostly grown cucumber tomatoes. Bell pepper still, perhaps. By the way, letting the tomato ripen on the bush is unacceptable luxury, it is torn off brown, and it reaches its tomato condition on the windowsill. A joke on duty is in use - (our district -) the edge of evergreen tomatoes.

Perhaps the times have passed, when the only way to grow something, despite the weather, was to make the greenhouse itself, with its own gold and sometimes people paved for something that was pulled to capture for memory, in a word, to the best of strengths, abilities and building-locksmith or carpentry carpentry skills. From which it is not a pity. Nowadays, when spaceships plow the big theater, the chemical industry never ceases to amaze with inventions, the other day, which seemed almost fantastic. Cellular polycarbonate was invented. The material for the greenhouse "fence" is just a miracle how good, only infection is a little expensive. Again, ready-made greenhouses, in a disassembled form, are universally offered for purchase. A kind of designer "do it yourself", A la Ikea. Sizes and, accordingly, the cost of choice.

Generally speaking, to buy something ready, which is not so difficult to do yourself, we consider to be bad manners - it turns out to be pretty cheaper, often more accurate and more durable. We conceived a greenhouse for a long time, but all hands did not reach. In addition, in the process of studying third-party experience in greenhouse construction, an amazing design was found - the Ivanko vegetarian. For those interested in gardening, I recommend that you curiosity, the book is easy to find on the Internet. It was decided to build it, with adjustments in size for local conditions. And even the place was found almost perfectly meeting quite unusual requirements for placing a greenhouse - a strong slope towards the south, southeast. However, a veggie is a much more capital version of the “classic” greenhouse, and even by the roughest estimates, requiring a fair amount of money and time for construction. Of course it’s worth it, but there were more priority construction tasks, so for now they were putting it off.

This winter we were presented with a greenhouse. Factory. Of course, this is not a vegetarian at all and it’s worth it, but for the money, you could buy so many pieces of iron and carbonate, and make three, no, four times as much! But no, nevertheless, the thing is very, very not bad, and its main advantage is that everything is already ready, only assembled. Yes, and we still decided to improve it. To begin with, the foundation, the site we have, hmm ... well, not very smooth, we can say heaven for a landscape designer, but also with the presence of a flat place under, say, beds ... well, not very good. So, for evenness and fencing of beds. Plus, the mass is an anchor that will not allow the entire structure to fly away with a decent gust of wind. So, what else do we have Comrade Ivanko invented there? Yeah, a dirt heat accumulator. As the Hunter said in the movie Ordinary Miracle, - "New ... new ... tempting, damn it ...". Well, then, take it.

What did you use.

Instruments.
First of all, a marking tool - used a 30m tape measure, home-made “arshin”, all kinds of pegs, ropes, a compass. The trench tool is a strong shovel, a sledgehammer. Garden car. A simple carpentry, carpentry tool, a screwdriver was very useful. A small concrete mixer with a manual drive, such as a meat grinder, was involved, of course, all kinds of buckets, troughs for concreting. I used a lot of welding inverter, electric cutting machine (grinder). A good extension cord came in handy. Locksmith tool.

Materials
In addition to the greenhouse itself, not very conditioning boards were used for formwork, roofing material for it, reinforcement for the foundation. Materials for the preparation of concrete. Rectangular pipes for additional braces. Pipes for external sewage with a diameter of 110 mm, for underground ducts, plus the corresponding tees-corners. Aluminum flexible hoses, fans, wires. Old slate for fencing beds.

So, photo chronicle with comments.



Spring, the long-awaited sun, warm, wait! Accordingly, with a shovel, it’s just the same pleasure to warm up.



"Zero cycle", as we say - diggers of all trenches. A collar, called "castoff", marking on it.



Here she is my beauty! In the words of the Foreman from Operation Y ... "by the power of your imagination, imagine what a wonderful housing estate here will be"



Something was dealt with in the sense of boards; for some of their economy, it was necessary to make the formwork in parts and rearrange it as it was concreted. Moreover, after concrete work, planks are considered lost for decent carpentry use.



Such T-shaped reinforcement elements had to be welded and placed in key places - the upper shelf will be exactly flush with concrete and to it by welding, then we will attach the frame to death.



A view of the corner.



Done! Oh back, oh arms and legs ... By the way, a lot of "hollow-forming elements" were laid in concrete, namely, bottles and pieces of polystyrene foam. Here and generally in wooden construction, the strip foundation is redundant and wasteful in the sense of materials. But then you do not need to plug any holes between the columns with anything, they swam, we know. But like that - with cans and bottles, it comes out rather economically, although, of course, you still have to tinker with it. Again, warmer.



He instructed the child to drill holes in pipes — she loves to drill, there are many pipes, holes too, everyone’s joy — energy, so to speak of the atom, in a peaceful way. Holes, that is, holes, evenly throughout the pipe from below, so that condensate falling on the inner surface of the pipe goes into the soil. After all, the pipes are underground, which means their walls are colder than the passing warm air, and moisture condenses from it. Almost drip irrigation.



That means, the finished assembled duct under the eastern bed.



The same pipes, a slightly different look. For clarity.



Soooo Fitted-sawn-drilled and finally assembled, the "right channel". And cubic meters of soil here and there ... ohohonyushki.



The ends of the pipes, without fail, are to be tucked-to-bind. Once this habit very well saved nerves and means.



Trying, looking at night. Well what to say.Not without some flaws, but everything seems to be falling into place.



Strengthening went - braces, struts, braces ... Boiled in full. I admit, I learned recently, but I love this business very much. Before, how are you going to do what and get to the need for welding, your hands will drop, and now ... just the same, I can! In the frame of the greenhouse, I must say, very thin-walled pipes were used and I had to prettyly make holes, remembering with a small plumb bend, those who saved so much when constructing. But he picked up the electrodes, the current, and it went. By the way, the internal "interior" was formed somewhat spontaneously. The initial configuration seemed flimsy. The design was as follows - welded, staggered, poked, cut off. As a result, the design for which the purchased materials were not satisfactory turned out to be satisfactory; Yes, the manic strengthening of structures and structures that, no matter how significant sailing is, is not a whim, or rather, not quite a whim. Our place turned out to be very, very windy, and it happened in stormy weather from the open veranda that the refrigerator was blown away. So to avoid and for your own peace of mind.





Here, the “pediment” is shot in order to make it convenient to call in a wheelbarrow - to carry compost “from outside”.



Modifications are painted only in places close to the transparent fence, so as not to bite the polycarbonate later, then the rest, under the roof, is a very wet year, every day it rains.



In Trelloni’s voice from the movie Treasure Island, “Admire Our Beauty ...” and further on.



Each sprout, with a sigh of relief, said, “Well, finally!” With seedlings, it’s generally difficult for us. The houses are not so light, the windows open onto the open (so far) veranda, that is, not a lot of sunshine and a lot of sunshine over them. Fluorescent light also does not add much light. All the same, the sun is the sun and it is difficult to fully replace it with electric lighting. Sprouts are pale and frail. And here is the beauty!



It was thought that this motor with a centrifugal fan should be installed for suction of air, at once on two “channels”, but after all ... hands-hooks ... were too lazy to dash after the tester, connected the wires as an inner voice suggested (there were three wires, one is very similar to ground). Well, that ... smoke, stink. The motor set off to places rich in game. I had to look for something else. The list of candidates was, frankly, small, from one point. Fans from pulsed PSU system units of a computer.



This is the process of their implantation in flexible aluminum ducts. The top of the mayonnaise bucket is glued with silicone (neutral, or thin aluminum is eaten!) Sealant, and a fan is already crashing into the lid of this bucket. The lid with a fan was jammed onto the end of the duct equipped with a mating part, the wiring was connected and the order - tightness, maintainability, simplicity of design, low cost.



From a roofing "galvanization" sawed a ring. Once again I was amazed at how convenient a jewelry jigsaw tool is (I recently got it, I haven’t got enough of it yet). Previously, I would have to drill a bunch of small holes, then with a file, then straighten this bent disgrace ... br-r.



Yeah, here is the assembly. The prototype, so to speak.



After a few days, he cultivated a little - he sawed up the screws and pulled the mesh so as not to arrange a cemetery in the pipes home animals ...



This is why the ring was needed.






Tee for 12 volts.



The air intake is also with nets, practice has shown that it is not in vain, garbage would have piled there over the season ... By the way, the planted tobacco seedlings are in the photo, a variety that does not require fermentation.





A window leaf on the north side was initially ignored, but it was needed. I had to level the air ducts, fortunately it is not difficult.





I adapted a barrel for watering with water warmed in the sun. Previously, it was heated with water for washing, on an impromptu hearth, almost a fire. Here her monstrous soot turned out to be the way.



After some time, a pair of such channel fans, 220 volts, were purchased.





Installed instead of computer, "blowing". Changed the configuration of the ducts.







The time has come to gather our courage and cultivate temporary wires on the earth. Thick power cable (heating), thinner pair of wires (separate fans and lighting) and a cable with twisted pairs for sensors. All this good was evenly distributed and shoved into two pieces of a metal-plastic water pipe. There were still dances with a tambourine, but overpowered. All this got into the workshop not deep underground.



Here, under the ceiling, the unfinished ends in the workshop and the control controller on the shelf are visible.



From the workshop window.





Season worked, now hibernation. The fans are disconnected and hidden in a warm place, the sleeves are tied with plastic bags so that no debris, dust, insects are packed inside. The greenhouse is used for seasonal storage of garden supplies, materials.
9.5
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9.2

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35 comments
Oleg Viktorovich
Such a soil accumulator requires deepening of the field level and an increase in heat capacity due to water.
Author
Thanks, interesting.
Vovan
And I’m blowing hot air out from under the ridge onto the floor of the greenhouse. Circulation. And the beds thaw much faster.
This is in March. In April, simple. And in May I already rearrange the fans for forced ventilation. For it’s hot, how many vents do not open.
I put the fans on the hood. Computer, 92 mm dia., 1.0 A.
There is a temperature controller. In the spring I pick up the sensor under the ridge, in the summer I lower to 1.5 m
The vents are also automatic.
Once done, and lie on my side, resting. :)
This is Kamchatka.
Author
no, don't dry
Author
Here, the whole greenhouse is such a solar radiator
Guest Alexander
And the earth does not dry out by accident.?
Guest Alexander
There are solar radiators on sale, I can not guarantee the accuracy in the name. Principe is simple. A radiator made of black pipes under translucent plastic, there is a solar battery that rotates the fan. The sun heats the air in the pipes and rotates the fan and so on. I don’t remember the price of the issue. Produced somewhere in our Urals.
Guest Alexander
I’m even tired of reading it, let alone ... a tomato in the market of 80 r / kg.
Author
Good afternoon! Alas, we still have snow to the waist and minus, in the sun only, dripping from the roofs on sunny days. Today the truth is cloudy and near zero. He visited the greenhouse only yesterday - he threw back the snow so that the side walls would not break. It’s too early. I’ll leave for a couple of weeks in the city, I’ll probably put sensors, fans and try to collect data on business on arrival. Seedlings, it would be nice to take out there - the sun is an order of magnitude more than on the windowsill.
Good afternoon, colleague. How are you with the weather? Not yet started to operate a greenhouse with a heat accumulator?
Author
Good evening colleague! Thanks for the considerations, about the flooding of the air ducts - I'll observe, but I think nothing bad will happen. In the underground part of the air ducts, perforation along the entire length of horizontal pipes, so that condensate is absorbed into the soil, melt water is also absorbed if it gets there.
Quote: Babay_Mazai
So.Drop watering is good and right, we won’t get anything like that, at least in the greenhouse. By the way, how was a knot made of dosing dropwise water at the end of the hose made? From a screw?

From medical droppers, the “pinch” is the most important control unit from the dropper, the main pipe from PVC hose 1/2 ”, into which the system’s needles are stuck in the right places, as I start the season, I’ll take a photo

Well, the main question about your data, alas, I can’t please with anything - the greenhouse didn’t work for us for a whole season, we did it only last late spring, the data will somehow be the most interesting to see. As it will be warmer, I will culture the ends of wires and cables in the greenhouse and make a number of sensors, they can be connected to the processor unit already connected to the computer and there is a data collection program. By the way, what placement of temperature sensors for your taste will be appropriate? A number of digital temperature sensors and two analog ones can be connected. Only better without exotic, simpler.

Inlet and outlet temperatures. I think there are enough several temperature indicators with ordinary thermometers at different times, the system is quite stationary.
From this temperature difference, you can judge the effectiveness of the system.

The actual air flow rate is desirable, although without a sensor this is complicated ... you can try using the passport data of the duct performance, although this will not be accurate, because aerodynamic drag of the track is significant ... You can try to blow smoke, determine the speed from time to time. But it is so...

The temperature in the soil at several points, at different times of the day and weather conditions. This is desirable to determine the heat capacity of the soil-accumulator and the uniformity of its heating along the length of the beds. If the air flow is small. then the air will cool at the beginning, and further along the length of the beds will not be effective. If the air flow is large, then he will not have time to give up heat - excessive losses to the fan ... Well this is so, theoretical delights are nothing more. As they say: practice is the criterion of truth.
Moreover, please observe whether air ducts will be flooded with horse water during the flood. During the flood, we have streams flowing on the surface, this is April ... but I would like to plant seedlings at this time ...

.
Author
Oh yes, I forgot to say about thermal insulation. Yes, thermal insulation around the perimeter of the soil fence seems to be quite appropriate. In our greenhouse, this thermal insulation is made outside the "foundation", in orange "Penoplex", 20mm.
Author
Good afternoon, colleague! Glad you liked it. As for the advice on gardening in the greenhouse, please, but remember that we are gardeners from the word "bad" and we are forced to do this - it’s a shame to buy vegetables while living in the village, and there are more interesting classes. So, don’t say later that you didn’t warn! : ) So. Drop watering is good and right, we won’t get anything like that, at least in the greenhouse. By the way, how was a knot made of dosing dropwise water at the end of the hose made? From a screw?
Regarding the wiring of electricity to the greenhouse, it seems this is not so scary, the danger is not great, you only need to correctly perform wiring and sockets or terminals, taking into account humidity. Pass the cable into the pipe and underground. After all, you are supposed to have a bunch of automation and servos to them, by the way, thanks for the tip about the hydraulic window openers of the windows, I looked at them, I will know.
Well, the main question about your data, alas, I can’t please with anything - the greenhouse didn’t work for us for a whole season, we did it only last late spring, the data will somehow be the most interesting to see. As it will be warmer, I will culture the ends of wires and cables in the greenhouse and make a number of sensors, they can be connected to the processor unit already connected to the computer and there is a data collection program. By the way, what placement of temperature sensors for your taste will be appropriate? A number of digital temperature sensors and two analog ones can be connected. Only better without exotic, simpler.
great implementation. I also want to do this.
The use of sewer pipes, the optimal solution for price, labor, deficit.

Let me give you some thoughts on why I will do this.
The most important thing is to get the crop early. I am from Yekaterinburg, the first cucumbers with all the efforts of June 10-15. I would like for a month, or even earlier.
Ways of solution: 1. The fan is powered by 30 watts from the solar battery. I operate a garden plot, then I would not want to bother with email. powered by 220V, drag it into the greenhouse, leave without supervision. The fan has already made a suitable engine from some printer. planted a homemade impeller. it blows quite tolerably, much more intensively than a cooler from a computer, at a voltage of 12V a current of 0.25A.
2. For drip use drip irrigation. the third season I have been using drip irrigation from used medical droppers with a Chinese timer, I am very pleased.
3. to protect against freezing and bad weather, you will have to make an internal greenhouse - a sarcophagus of non-woven material, and somehow raise it during the day, in the heat. I think that I’ll power the engine from the solar panel, something like a car glass lift, and raise the “wings” of the “sarcophagus” for a day
4. Well, the problem with the external ventilation of the greenhouse, until I know how to solve it, I’ll have to do the same with the electric drive. For three seasons I used thermal drives with a substance that freezes at 28 degrees (some kind of alcohol), in the description they must withstand 10 years of operation, in fact out of 4, only 2 survived for two seasons ... Thermal drives, things are comfortable, but pay 3t.r. each season not comme il faut ... so anyway, but e-mail. the drive is more convenient

Well this is so, thoughts aloud questions to the author of the branch - we have sunny days in the Urals in late February when you walk along the street and it is hot on a sunny day:
Can I ask to lay out any temperature measurements of the earth where the pipes are laid?
in the author’s opinion, was it necessary to make the thermal insulation of the earth layer, where pipes were laid from the “root” layer of the earth, to reduce heat leakage?
Quote: Valery
What is the air temperature at the top of the greenhouse,


50-65 degrees. On a particularly sunny day more ...

Our greenhouses stood in two rows of three in a row with a gap of 2 m. Under the ridge, there was a plastic pipe (HDPE) 32 mm, it went from the hydrophore, passed three greenhouses, turned around, and returned through the second row. Inside the greenhouses every five measures there were tees and the pipe fell to feed the drip irrigation. If the watering was not turned on, then returning, the water had such a temperature that it was simply impossible to hold the hand ... If it was turned on, it was a little colder, but still very, very warm ... (I still did not understand what affected this ?)))). And this despite the fact that it got ice out of the well, and went full pressure !!!


- rather, the collector effect here - the water was heated more due to direct rays of the sun, the sun heated the pipe (it is dark and thin), and the water pipe, plus the warm air at the top of the greenhouse, added heat, the absence of wind inside the greenhouse did not allow cooling, and the plastic pipe is not bad the heat insulator kept the water warm, at a zero flow rate of water it was even more heated than at a flow rate during drip irrigation ...
What is the air temperature at the top of the greenhouse,


50-65 degrees. On a particularly sunny day more ...

Our greenhouses stood in two rows of three in a row with a spacing of 2 m. A plastic pipe (HDPE) went under the ridge 32 mm, it went from the hydrophore, passed three greenhouses, turned around, and returned through the second row. Inside the greenhouses every five measures there were tees and the pipe fell to feed the drip irrigation. If the watering was not turned on, then returning, the water had such a temperature that it was simply impossible to hold the hand ... If it was turned on, it was a little colder, but still very, very warm ... (I still did not understand what affected this ?)))). And this despite the fact that it got ice out of the well, and went full pressure !!!
Of course, warming the earth will have an effect. The method of heating and economic feasibility is doubtful. What is the air temperature at the top of the greenhouse, how many degrees will the plastic pipe heat up, what will be the temperature of the soil with and without heating? And a lot of questions. Is it not better to drip irrigation with warm water?
Well, yes, if you make a fire and remove it, you can sleep in winter in the place of a fire on the ground. But this is a completely different temperature regime. It's your business, try) But I wouldn’t bother with such a thing
accumulation of heat in the ground - nonsense.


We suffered such "delirium" in the nursery. ("Small" greenhouse, the size of "only" 8 by 20 meters, designed for seedlings)
Only, due to the fact that it began to be operated for its intended purpose in February, was it heated by Buleryan. He stood in a pit at the end of the greenhouse. And he "sucked" the air from below into the pipes through several duralumin pipes 10 cm in diameter buried in the ground (From a field sprinkler). The air intake came from the other end of the greenhouse .. That is, the buleryan pipes “breathed heat” too much - even the film was pulled over it. And so the hot air from them quickly rushed to the other end of the greenhouse, where vacuum was created, and along the way, mixed. And this gave a tremendous economic effect - due to the fact that the soil was heated by this “return”, the need for tables and drawers for seedlings disappeared! We simply laid out a nutritious soil (a mixture of high peat with chernozem) in a highly moistened state with a five-centimeter layer on compacted soil, perforated it with a special device and planted the seeds there. (The device presses through the “dirt”, dividing it into uniform squares with a side of 5 cm and makes a puncture in the center of which a cucumber seed is thrown. After germination with special scoops, this layer is removed on a stretcher and taken to greenhouses for planting. And there it is it just breaks through the slots like a chocolate bar, and in your hand there remains a cube of nutrient soil with a side of 5 cm and a cucumber sprouted from it.With it, a cucumber is planted ...
I spied this technology in Holland. There, I also looked at the device of the "soil cutter", which he later reproduced ...
And the nursery after landing, took broiler chickens ...))))) ... And in the summer they "walked under the ax", and in the autumn the nursery was planted with dill, which was sold well in bunches later, when it was already snowing ....
Here is such a "non-stop use of production capacity" thanks to the heated soil ....
Yes .... With a non-stop long-term heating, plastic pipes would also be able to cope ... Simply, in 2000 they were very expensive, and duralumin pipes were free ...))))
Author
What a passion! :) It seems everyone has already said everything, separately, mentally shaking hands with Valery - a wise practitioner is felt behind his words. Indeed, the manufacture of a system that is tenacious, convenient, from accessible materials, and again, maintainable is always a painful compromise. And the availability and cost of materials is a very weighty argument. Thank you all, Happy New Year!

Dmitry, I recommend that you pay your attention to the silver heat exchanger, the thermal conductivity will be even cooler! ; )

Yes, I completely forgot. Everyone was very interested in thermal conductivity, however, when passing warm, humid greenhouse air through the same soil, it still has a few pleasant moments for plants, the author of the invention writes about them. And the holes, which our Dmitry mentioned, do not serve at all to increase thermal conductivity, but precisely for this.
but who needs to build this nonsense, I metaphorically said that a construction with such pipes is meaningless. And in general, the accumulation of heat in the soil is nonsense. My personal opinion was that I didn’t want to offend anyone.
You all offer some kind of "laboratory" methods! ))))
Copper coil ... What diameter should it be for a weak fan to blow it ??? ...Well ?? ... Dmitry ... Do you have the opportunity to make such a coil in practice ???? And how much money will he pull ??? Isn’t it easier all year in the supermarket to sell vegetables?))))
Tin box .... And what, every season to make a new one and dig in ??? It rots in an alkaline solution very quickly ... Like copper ...
... I had experience working with greenhouses. In our farm we built six greenhouses, measuring 12 by 33 meters and one - 12 by 50 meters ... Of course, I, for example, knew that it was better to build them from aluminum and polycarbonate .... However, I made from logs and Polish greenhouse film ....
And why, what do you think ????
As I understand it, here they want to heat the soil with air through a plastic INSULATION pipe. Moist soil has a much greater heat capacity compared to air. Cool air
will be, but the soil really does not heat up through the insulator. If you want to heat the soil, you need good heat transfer
from air to soil. It would be possible to skip the flat air ducts from tin ... Remember, previously described a water heater for the shower (in the country), made from a flat tank (duralumin) from the plane.
In plastic pipes, by the way, holes are drilled for efficient heat transfer


By the way, sewer pipes are harmful to health, and you will constantly breathe them in pairs and then there will be foods that are saturated with this matter. Something doesn’t look like “eco-life”))
Well, what sizes should your radiator be so that the area of ​​its plane exceeds the surface area of ​​these pipes?))) After all, every three linear meters of such a pipe will give about one meter square surface ...


By radiator, I did not mean a car, but simply a coil, I talked about a larger contact area than the author did.

And if you look in one more, we will understand that at low temperatures, but large quantities of heat, the thermal conductivity of the material of the heat exchanger does not play such a significant role.


The issue is the specific heat and the temperature difference (soil and air). The hotter (figuratively) the soil and the colder the air, the more actively the air will warm up (soil cooling), as a result, insulation can be used to inhibit this phenomenon (including plastic pipes).

If the temperature difference is small, then, for the effective operation of the system, a high thermal conductivity of its components is required ("copper radiator").

. A wet soil does not behave like that !!! The heat in it is distributed ONLY by thermal conductivity !!! That is, the area adjacent to your copper radiator will immediately heat up to high temperature ... and remain in place, unlike air!))))
So, we will have two options:
Or arm with a shovel and constantly mix hot soil with cold soil !!!!
Or, make a heat exchanger from a material with low thermal conductivity (for example, plastic) and spread it over large areas where it will dose-rate warm the soil ....


Well, yes, when the system starts, some adjacent parts (the wettest) will warm up faster due to high thermal conductivity, but over time the soil will warm up evenly, given all the air chambers and so on. In addition, no one forbids regulating the air supply, thereby controlling the smoothness of heating.
And here you are wrong, Dmitry ....
Well, what sizes should your radiator be so that the area of ​​its plane exceeds the surface area of ​​these pipes?))) After all, every three linear meters of such a pipe will give about one meter square surface ...
... Marty !!! You think in just one dimension ...)))))
And if you look in one more, we will understand that at low temperatures, but large quantities of heat, the thermal conductivity of the material of the heat exchanger does not play such a significant role. With large temperature amplitudes and a small volume of coolant, it is important to quickly remove heat in order to dissipate it over a large volume of the receiving medium. And here the principle is like underfloor heating - heat is distributed evenly over small areas in small portions.Lay a copper pipe on the floor, and you will get not even, but "striped heat." So it is here - a copper radiator will quickly give up all the heat in one place !!!
... Indeed, if you look in one more dimension, then we will see another significant difference from a radiator in an air environment, which you neglected: The heat-receiving medium (moist soil), unlike air, has very high thermal conductivity !!! Your radiator will sharply "reduce in area" ... After all, its complex shapes will be covered with soil and its usable area will be no more than its external geometric dimensions !!! So to bury the "home" battery, and even more so, the car radiator does not make sense - their effectiveness in wet soil will not be higher than the efficiency of just boxes of the same external dimensions ....
... And if you look in the third dimension, we will see that the soil, unlike air or liquid, is also not subject to convection !!! In the apartment, a small portion of air, touching a very hot plane of the radiator, expands sharply and rises up (damned Archimedes ...)))), mixing with the cold and dissipating the temperature. (There is a transformation of small volume with high temperature to large with low). A wet soil does not behave like that !!! The heat in it is distributed ONLY by thermal conductivity !!! That is, the area adjacent to your copper radiator will immediately heat up to high temperature ... and remain in place, unlike air!))))
So, we will have two options:
Or arm with a shovel and constantly mix hot soil with cold soil !!!!
Or, make a heat exchanger from a material with low thermal conductivity (for example, plastic) and spread it over large areas where it will dose-rate warm the soil ....
What the author did ....
Oh how ....

P.S. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!
Author
Dmitry, monster, if you are really interested in the answers to these questions, nevertheless refer to the source. There are no volumes dotted with long formulas, a small brochure. Do not make me retell it.
I did not understand at all. Installation for aligning air temperature with the earth? It will work if you dig a hole 2-3 meters and bury copper radiators smile And this thing with PVC pipes is a waste of time, money and effort.
It would be better if they threw a pipe from the house and pumped warm air into the greenhouse.
Author
Here is a colleague with this, I find it difficult. So far, no numbers, everything is at the level of sensations, so beware. As it gets warmer, I will try to use the processor, since all communications are already there. You can connect a daisy chain of digital temperature sensors and a couple of any analog ones to it, it itself connects to the pi-sishnik and the control program, among other things, can write data to a file. I have not seen how, but I hope that it will be possible to get some dependencies that allow us to quantify the effectiveness.
So far, I can only say that in summer, the battery does not cope with excess heat, you still have to ventilate, but it helps well in the off-season. We missed the spring, but in the fall, after removing the main crop, for a while, all planted greens grew, although on the open ground, everything had frozen for a long time. In the spring, I hope to grow seedlings there very early, insuring myself with an electric heater. I will entrust it to the same processor.
Author
Again, colleague, I refer to the source so as not to retell. "Solar Vegetarian. Ivanko A. et al. 1996." Briefly - yes, all the same, the soil is heated with excess heat from the air. This avoids sudden jumps in temperature. Well, there are some more pleasant moments for plants.
Author
U, how excited the people are! : ) Good morning everyone! I answer in order.

what is the depth of the foundation, pipes and why did you decide to use plastic pipes?
Since you blow away the refrigerators ... would you like to put a windmill for yourself and take energy from it ...


The foundation "lies" centimeters by 30, no more. Correctly, to call it walls - a sort of sandbox.There is a sand cushion beneath it, but it is more likely out of habit. The pipes lie at a depth of about 60 cm, if my memory serves me, according to the recommendations of the author of the invention, with a slight bias towards air intake. Plastic, because despite the relatively low heat transfer, the other options are either expensive or short-lived. Or both. In defense of plastic pipes, I want to say that here we are dealing with a low-potential source of heat and the whole system is very inertial, it seems the instant ability to transfer heat is not very important, although, what is already there, it is desirable. Generally speaking, for those interested, I highly recommend the author’s literature for study. This is not a great brochure, it won’t take much time, but you will get pleasure, I promise:) The thoroughness of elaboration, a lot of devils, for different materials, and a thorough substantiation impresses.

Windmill, of course, such thoughts were. While I do not want to get hold of a source of powerful low-frequency vibrations near the house or just additional noises, and we really love silence. Yes, and get energy. Which, how to store, how much? All this is not an idle question. Electrical? Hassle with batteries that do not live in this mode for a long time, automation, a powerful inverter, eternal hassle with service, we swam, we know. We lived in the taiga, where there was a micro hydroelectric power station and nothing else. There, yes, and so, it is much cheaper to buy electricity from the state. Yes, and the wind is not very constant here, quite often there are squalls, so we are afraid of them. There were thoughts of pumping water with the wind. In the summer for watering. But a fair amount of investment is required, if not a toy, noise again.
Describe the effectiveness of the system, for which it was conceived.
I did not quite understand. Are you warming up the soil or due to the soil is the air in the greenhouse?
what is the depth of the foundation, pipes and why did you decide to use plastic pipes?
Since you blow away the refrigerators ... would you like to put a windmill for yourself and take energy from it ...

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