» Electronics » Power supplies "A simple power supply that produces 17 volts, do it yourself

DIY 17 volt simple power supply


I welcome all visitors to the site and who decided to look at my article. Electricity today is the most important element of our life. All devices now work on electricity, whether it’s at least household, computing ... Our life is almost difficult to imagine without wires, batteries, sockets. But each of these devices is powered by its own voltage: at five volts, twelve ... Therefore, since there are not a few devices, a certain voltage is required for each of them. For example, a 220V refrigerator cannot be connected to the laptop’s usb port, it will be ridiculous, since five volts is very small for a refrigerator. Well, you can’t connect the phone directly without a special device to a 220 V socket, otherwise the phone will simply burn out. And so that the phone does not burn out, for this there are special power supplies that convert the high voltage to a lower one, for example, a twelve volt power supply. With such a favorable voltage, for example, an LED strip will work, that is, from twelve volts. It is in this article that you will see and learn (if you still do not know) how do it yourself to make the simplest power supply from improvised materials. In my case, the power supply will give out 17 V. In my power supply there will be two connectors for connecting and a place where mounts like crocodiles will be attached. To make this homemade we will need:


1. Step-down transformer with an input voltage of 220 V and an output of 10 V AC;
2. Four diodes for the manufacture of a rectifier diode bridge, which converts alternating current into direct current, that is, the current which has "+" and "-";
3. A capacitor designed to smooth DC oscillations after the rectifier;
4. Plywood of any thickness, designed for the manufacture of power supply housing;
5. Heat shrink tubing to isolate exposed areas;
6. A coil of wires;
7. An electric plug for connecting the device to a 220 V network;
8. CD disk for the manufacture of the housing of some parts;
9. Insulating tape;
10. Copper wire with a thickness of 3 mm;
11. Self-tapping screws for assembling the wooden case of the power supply;
12. Rubber tube for the legs of the power supply;
13. Special connectors (2 pcs.) For connecting to the power supply.


1. Electric soldering iron for soldering contacts;
2.Tweezers for easier work with small parts;
3. Stationery knife for cleaning wires from insulation and other needs;
4. Screwdriver for unscrewing screws;
5. Scissors for cutting wires;
6. A multimeter for checking indications of a future power supply unit;
7. Glue gun and hot melt adhesive for gluing some parts or for insulation;
8. A simple pencil for drawings on plywood;
9. Square and ruler for making measurements;
10. Metal cutting for cutting plywood, as the edges of the plywood will crack;
11. A drill and a disk for cutting wood to cut some parts (it is difficult to cut plywood with this disk);
12. Chisel for making recesses on plywood;
13. Sandpaper for straightening uneven surfaces;
14. Electric drill and drill of different diameters for drilling holes;
15. Jigsaw for cutting square or rectangular holes;
16. File for aligning rectangular holes;
17. Superglue for gluing small parts;
18. Markers black and red to indicate plus and minus on the power supply;
19. Lighter for shrink tubing.

The process of manufacturing a power supply.

In the beginning, we take four diodes and assemble from them a diode bridge that will convert alternating current to direct, as I mentioned earlier.


Using an electric soldering iron, we solder one of these four diodes.




This is what the contacts of the diode post mean:


Now we solder the diode bridge to the step-down voltage transformer.



By the way, the characteristics of a step-down voltage transformer:


Next, we isolate the soldered sections from the transformer and the diode bridge using a lighter and heat-shrink tubing.



Now we solder a wire to the step-down voltage transformer, with which the transformer will be connected to a 220 volt network.


To do this, I took the wire from the old lamp.


We clean the contacts, put on the heat shrink and solder the wires to the transformer.





Isolate the wires.


On the other end of the wire we connect an electric plug, purchased at an electrical store.



Do not forget to put on a part of an electric plug earlier. Screw the wires to the plug terminals and assemble the case back.







Since the wire did not hold on to the fastening of the plug, we wind it with electrical tape.




Check the readings of the resulting circuit with a multimeter. As you can see, the voltage is issued while 11.27 volts. Further, the readings will still change.


Now, to the plus and minus of the rectifier diode bridge, observing the polarity, we solder the capacitor, which will smooth out the voltage fluctuations of the post diode bridge.


To do this, we need black and red wiring, since the capacitor contacts are small to solder to the bridge.







After soldering the capacitor, the voltage at the terminals increased to 16.88 volts.


This is the electrical circuit we have.


Now we will make the case for the diode bridge from a regular CD disc and gluing everything with a glue gun.



Using a stationery knife, divide the CD into two parts.


From one of the parts we cut out two identical circles.



Now from them we glue the case for the diode bridge as follows.






Everything, the main thing, that is, the electric circuit, is ready, now you need to assemble a wooden case, which is the most difficult in this homemade product. It took me just an hour or less to solder this chain, but it took me almost a day to complete the wooden case.

Now we take a simple pencil and a square and draw the details of the case on plywood and cut them out.


First, draw such a rectangle.


Next, using metal cutting, we cut this square. Why with the help of metal cutting, because with the help of a conventional hacksaw, the edges of the plywood crack, but with the help of metal cutting it is not.




Now draw a rectangle a little bigger.


We also cut it with a metal cutting machine.


On a small rectangle we make a place for the cooling fan of the power supply. To do this, with the help of a drill and the circular disk intended for it, make the following slots.


We pick out with the help of a chisel a recess on a small rectangle with slots inside.


This will be the fan seat, which I don’t have yet. Therefore, so far the power supply will be without a fan.

Now draw the following rectangles on plywood. one of them will be smaller. Next, we cut them.



Here are their places on the power supply housing.


And here are their sizes:



Next, we cut out the following two identical parts from plywood.




Now we process them with sandpaper.




On one of the parts on which the recess was made, we drill holes with a mesh.





We process them with a drill.




On three other parts, in addition to the front, we also drill holes in the lower place of the parts.







On the remaining part, which is larger than the previous side parts, we make a rectangular hole and rectangular recesses.








Now we attach this copper wire to this hole.


To do this, through this rectangular hole we drill two identical holes with a diameter into this copper wire.




We cut the wire in half and bend the l-shaped form from the two wires obtained.




We insert the obtained two parts into the holes and glue them there with super glue.



Now we take the connectors designed for 12 volts and prepare seats for them.






We insert the connectors into place and glue them with super glue.




Using a rectangle from the disk, close the rectangular window.







We begin to assemble the body. I hope everything will be clear from the photographs, how I fixed everything.











We fix the transformer and the diode bridge to the housing.









Now we solder the wires to the connectors and the terminal on which the crocodile-type mounts will be attached.








By the way, the remaining two wires will be connected to a fan, which unfortunately I did not find right now (although I have one, you can see it in the photographs, but if you connect it to the unit, the unit will begin to vibrate and make an unpleasant sound, since two blades of the fan are broken, so it’s better to get a new one and connect a new one).

Again, check the readings with a multimeter. The voltage has already increased to 17.61 volts.


Now we fix the wire that will be connected to 220 volts as follows.





We continue to assemble the body.







That's all, the power supply is almost ready, it remains to stick the legs from the rubber tube. We will stick the legs with super glue.






And now the power supply is completely ready, excluding the cooling system, which will still be installed.





Now mark the conclusion. Red - plus, black - minus, permanent markers will help us with this.



This is how the connection will be made.


We test our power supply with a nichrome wire.



But what kind of voltage the power supply produces at the end.

To make a simple power supply is not at all difficult, since it is simple, but more complex, it will also be interesting to assemble, except for the case. And for this power supply, I can make special devices, which I will show in my next articles.
This article is over, thank you all for your time on my homemade product.
7
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7.5

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31 a comment
If a kid is really studying in the 5th ... 6th grade, then the article is just a masterpiece .. good
I will help....))))
If it were possible, I would give you three likes for this post, and not one. )))
For diodes, the terms “plus” and “minus” should not be used at all, only “anode” and “cathode”, including because there is usually a positive voltage after the cathode.
We will be condescending to beginners. Even if (oh horror!:)) The author wrote for mercantile reasons, at least some kind of approval will probably push us at a decisive moment, for example, choose the profession not as a manager, but as a designer, electronics engineer or physicist. Maybe the author, in the future, will solve the problem of controlled thermonuclear fusion or controlled gravity for our grandchildren; )
I wrote a plus in quotation marks)
They wrote everything correctly. It just doesn’t make sense to discuss the exterior of this product, which has no practical value. The kid was engaged in any business during the holidays, he didn’t fool around. I would have read books. However, I already wrote about this.
Nruter but he didn’t talk about this, but that the strip — where the cathode is, really expressed itself, is really not entirely clear. But the diodes do not have a plus or minus, there is only an anode and a cathode.
The ends of the wires in the mains plug were soldered - well done, except for what was noted by colleagues, there are some doubts about the "output terminals". Judging by the photo, crocodiles at a certain position of the wires can simply close. Perhaps it would be more reliable to simply release the wires from the case with the same crocodiles at the end? Is a fan in a classic rectifier needed?

Regarding the appearance - putty, sandpaper, varnish or protective impregnation, can turn a rough box from plywood, almost into a box, but you have to tinker. And do not neglect the explanatory inscriptions on the devices. Here, for example, uh ... "Rectifier", voltage, maximum current. And yet, my colleagues mentioned the switch, I’ll add it would be nice if the on indicator is a neon light or an LED. Successes.
Ivan_Pokhmelev,
Alas, I'm not talking about that. And the fact that the “plus” of the diode is the anode, not the cathode!
Quote: Hambaker
Where does 0.8 A come from?
There, the Liao iron is 3 watts in size declared as 5. taunt Compare the 50 Hz transformer with the tester's display size.
I don’t know how it is in terms of copper and the quality of iron and assembly (you can’t determine it from the photo), but everything is fine in terms of size.
The width of the cartoon is 70 mm. A normal domestic trance of 8 watts, for example, or - roughly speaking, in terms of dimensions a cube with a side of (40 ... 45) mm. The dimensions in the photo are approximately the same.
The strip is the cathode.
To be more precise, it is not a plus, but an anode. And the polarity is unambiguously confused.
Where does 0.8 A come from?
There, the Liao iron is 3 watts in size declared as 5. taunt Compare the 50 Hz transformer with the tester's display size.
150 mA long term operation limit. 200 mA heating limit.
It is a great success that this transformer did not burn out after an hour of idling.
Transformer 230 V / 10.7 V at a load of 0.8 A.
At a nominal voltage of 230 V, the rectified voltage with good filtration at a load of 0.8 A when rectified by conventional diodes (not Schottky) will be approximately 13.5 ... 13.7 V.
Quote: Nruter
As a result, we have those same 17 volts.

If the voltage in the author’s electric network is not too high, then this is an elementary result of measurements with this "standard":
Why did you pounce on a fifth grader from the village? Tried the kid. Studying for now. It’s a pity that he doesn’t read books. ((Now it’s not necessary to buy them either, you can find a lot of things on the Internet, but not Kashkarov, but for starters the old Soviet, like Borisov.
To be precise, it’s not a plus, but a cathode. But the photo is actually reversed polarity
One wooden stick and a bridge - achievement of the 21st century !!!
Author
Yes, that's right. Sorry for the mistake!
In 5 photos from above there is an error, the strip on the diode is a plus, and the author has a minus.
Yes, I will answer you. At the output of the diode bridge, the voltage has the form of only positive half-waves with a double ripple frequency. A capacitor is used to smooth out these ripples. When the half-wave rises from 0 to 10.7 volts, the capacitor charges. When the half-wave drops from maximum to 0, the capacitor discharges, but not to 0. It is this residual voltage that each time increases with increasing. As a result, we have those same 17 volts. As soon as the load appears, the capacitor discharges more. The greater the load, the closer the value of the rectified voltage to the value on the secondary winding.
Author
Well, I'm still learning.
Author
Is it not clear why time was wasted !?
water, solid water, what was the time wasting?
Quiet horror, first-grader level!
Alright, alright, alright ....
Conder at 16 volts, and the output is more than 17, how long will it last?
It is necessary to put a resistor at the output for a small load.
Author
1. The case is wooden because it was the only thing I had at hand.
2-3. The fuse and switch did not provide, but would be worth it.
4. His need, as I wrote at the end of the article, can make home-made appliances and connect them to this power source.
Author
Sorry, but I myself would like to know the answer to this question.
Hello, tell me due to Chevo 17 volts accumulated? And lm317 would add
1. Why in a wooden box?
2. Where is the fuse in the 220 V circuit?
3. Where is the switch in the 220 V circuit?
4. If you load this rectifier on a nichrome wire, as shown in the photo, the output voltage will be as written on the transformer - 10.7 V. And 17 volts will only be without load.
Why is an unregulated unstabilized power supply with such a voltage and power of 8 W needed?

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