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LED lamp on 220V (normal large lampholder with thread)


Recently made an interesting LED lamp from a set of small LEDs. Regarding the price, it came out less than the store, with almost the same brightness. The lamp housing is simple but stylish, the canons of correct light output are preserved here.

Isn’t it about this: some people dream of a stylish, fun, bright and economical lamp on long winter evenings, wrapped in a warm plaid and reading "not electronic"book?



I offer you my idea for self-production. The lamp works from a 220 V, 50 Hz network, and is screwed into an ordinary cartridge (the one that is larger, because there are still small 220 V, although it can be changed there).

Almost all parts of the lamp are taken from spare parts that have already been used, but are idle.
To create, we need not a lot of tools and materials:

  Tools and devices:





- Grover (with a disk on a tree)
- file, or sandpaper;
- soldering iron;
- awl;
- drill (or centering, diameter 0.8 mm);
- a drill (or centering, diameter 8 mm, for the size of the LED);
- a drill (although here you can drill manually);
- stationery knife;
- compass;
- large lampholder (for lamp with thread);
- A4 paper (1 pc.).






  Expendable materials:






- solder;
- rosin;
- connecting copper wires;
- LEDs for 1 W, 3.5 V (with radiators, 4 pcs.);
- Charging for mobile phone (used);
- CD-ROM or DVD (1 pc.);
- fishing line (diameter 0.18 mm, 1 reel);
- socket with thread from a blown-out economical lamp with a plastic housing;







Stage 1.
We draw a circle of the required size on a paper using a compass, under the base with a marking for LEDs:



Stage 2.
We apply a paper circle to the CD-ROM, transfer the markup with an awl, and then we cut out a small disk with a grover:




Stage 3.
Using drills (or alignments), drill holes in the small disk, 4 large (8 mm) in the center and 4 small closer to the perimeter (0.8 mm):



Stage 4.
Since charging for the cell phone has an output voltage of 6.4 V, and the LEDs consume 3.2 V, we solder them 2 in series in 2 pairs. So that the LEDs do not pass from the foil of the CD-ROM, we put insulation on their contacts:




Stage 5.
We lightly fit the LEDs into the holes (8mm) on the CD so that their pairs are perpendicular to each other. This is done so that when one pair burns out, the second luminary is symmetrical:





Stage 6.
We disassemble the mobile charger, if it does not enter the basement glass, then it can be cut off a little by taking, for example, the green indicator LED. And solder the contacts of the white LEDs:





Stage 7.
To connect a small disk with a socle, on the side of the socle cup we drill 4 symmetrical holes with a diameter of 0.8 mm and tie a fishing line. So that the fishing line does not protrude from the base, leave a long end (30 mm) and tighten inward:



Stage 8.
The lamp is ready to test operation, screw it into the cartridge and turn on 220 V:




Under such a light, it is good to read, if the distance to the book is not very large, it is better in a table lamp.
The hole from the disk (its own) does not look bad, and also does the work of removing heat from the radiators of the LEDs. The cap itself also has openings; together, such openings create an influx of cold and an exit of heated air from the working elements of the lamp.
9.3
8.5
9.8

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16 comments
Once again, they copied nonsense, and even not related to the previous nonsense. ((
Find a real tutorial and read. No need to use sources of dubious reliability.
Author
in particular ... The current-voltage characteristic of LEDs in the forward direction is non-linear ... The diode starts to conduct current, starting from a certain threshold voltage ... LEDs can have a built-in current-limiting circuit, in which case the range of permissible voltage of the power source is indicated for them .. . Direct connection of the LED to a voltage source exceeding the voltage drop declared by the manufacturer for a particular LED can cause a current to flow through it, exceeding the maximum permissible voltage overheating and instant failure ...
I do not contradict here ...
For each LED there are permissible values ​​of the supply voltage Umax and Umax arr. (respectively
for direct and reverse switching). When applying a voltage that is greater than the set Umax and Umax arr. There is an electrical breakdown, as a result of which the LED fails.

New Standard, I repeat once again: study the materiel !!
And again I repeat: study the materiel !!
Author
the reader, if he does not understand some strongly “smart” words, can go on to read another article ... more understandable ... some readers who see ... E346 ... E64 ... E96 ... might think ... about pancake sho and here they write about food stabilizers and preservatives ... yeah ... better telly ... I'll see ... I try to explain not scientifically but popularly ...
Author
For each LED there are permissible values ​​of the supply voltage Umax and Umax arr. (respectively
for direct and reverse switching). When applying a voltage that is greater than the set Umax and Umax arr. There is an electrical breakdown, as a result of which the LED fails. There is also a minimum value of the supply voltage Umin, at which the LED glows. The range of supply voltage between Umin and Umax is called the “working” zone, since this is where the LED works.
Author
that is, in your opinion, the voltage in the LEDs is not important and they do not behave at all like zener diodes? ... hmm ... probably I didn’t check the LEDs ... but the bulbs)) ... although they also break through the voltage ...
Bliiin, what am I trying to explain?
Quote: New Standard
the voltage is also important ... it can break the current more abruptly than the LED ... Since the LED behaves like a zener diode

Learn the materiel !!
Author
Khatul Madan, voltage is also important ... it can pass the LED more abruptly than the current ... Since the LED behaves like a zener diode ... you can give a high voltage .. but don’t overwhelm it ... since the diode is stabilizing ... Look at the video ... how a 3-in 12-diode burns ... the current can be brought up to 300 mA ... it will burn from the voltage anyway ... here the voltage should be within the normal range for a 3-diode not more than 4 v. ..
https://enm.imdmyself.com/10445-kak-ne-pravilno-obhoditsya-so-svetodiodom-s-rubriki-etogo-luchshe-ne-delat-eto-ne-pravilno-.html
Quote: New Standard
Khatul Madan in charging is not a very large output current ... in general, at 6.4 V it gives up to 10 W of power ... that is, 10 / 6.4 = 1.5 A ... for LEDs somewhere will be almost the norm is 300 mA per one ... there are small radiators there ... I think that's enough if you turn off the light from time to time ...

Judging
Quote: New Standard
Khatul Madan in charging is not a very large output current ... in general, at 6.4 V it gives up to 10 W of power ... that is, 10 / 6.4 = 1.5 A ... for LEDs somewhere will be almost the norm is 300 mA per one ... there are small radiators there ... I think that's enough if you turn off the light from time to time ...

Judging by the size of the charge, it is unlikely that it will give out 1.5A, at best 0.5. And I burned five such diodes, believing that voltage and not current are important there (good free-wheeling diodes), and they are not slightly heated - for 4 pieces in a closed volume in normal mode.
Author
Ivan_Pokhmelev, but yes, the engraver (drill) .. and not the grover (spring washer) ... Grovers - there are many more such cities in the USA ... that got stuck ... when I studied the USA map)) ...
Author
Khatul Madan in charging is not a very large output current ... in general, at 6.4 V it gives up to 10 W of power ... that is, 10 / 6.4 = 1.5 A ... for LEDs somewhere will be almost the norm is 300 mA per one ... there are small radiators there ... I think that's enough if you turn off the light from time to time ...
graboutver (with wood disc)
Learn the materiel!
Since charging for the cell phone has an output voltage of 6.4 V, and the LEDs consume 3.2 V, we solder them 2 in series in 2 pairs. So that the LEDs do not pass from the foil of the CD-ROM, we put insulation on their contacts:
You repeat my mistake- LEDs are controlled by CURRENT and consume CURRENT, and 3.2 volts is the voltage drop on the LED! For these LEDs, the recommended current is 300mA, if more - the diode degrades, less - lower brightness. Therefore, in such devices they use current sources - drivers, the simplest of which is a resistor (by the way, charging a mobile phone is also such). And since the scheme is quite working, the radiator would not hurt, otherwise they get very hot.
the one that is bigger

called E27
still have 220v small

called E14

We advise you to read:

Hand it for the smartphone ...