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Improving the electric drill - increasing the accuracy of drilling


Greetings to all whose hands are growing from the right place, as well as their sympathizers! This time I want to suggest that you slightly improve the most common power tool that almost every artisan has. It's about the electric drill.

It seemed that you can still add to this tool, which shoved everything that is possible and impossible? Here and drilling with a punch like a punch, and adjusting the speed (which by the way a lot of questions, but more on that next time), and a ruler for drilling to a given depth, and so on. However, a hand drill, unlike a drilling machine, has one drawback - it is problematic to drill a strictly vertical or horizontal hole, it is difficult to control the perpendicularity in two planes. Surely many came across a situation where they had to ask someone to coordinate the position of the instrument higher, lower or to the right or left. For example, in order to insert a latch into an interior door, you need to drill an ø22mm hole in the end of the canvas. strictly horizontally, and if eye drilling is a matter of drilling along the blade axis, then I even managed to flood the horizon with horizontality while drilling along the conductor.

What I bring to your attention is to the disgrace - you need to install two bubble levels on the electric drill - linear for horizontal and circular for vertical drilling. I will make a reservation right away, the idea is not mine, but it was read many years ago in some of the magazines. It simply offered to fasten the level to the instrument, which I myself did repeatedly - I fastened with an insulating tape (yes, blue) a peephole taken out of the level, slipping under the edges of the splinters to match the axes. Then the insulating tape was gradually erased, unwound, and in the end the peephole was safely lost. It is because of this that I decided to make this device overhaul.

For homemade we will need:
1. Bubble levels - linear and circular
2. Drill
3. Chisel
4. Glue
5. Reference level

First, mark up the window for setting the linear level. The dimensions of the eye that I managed to get (from the plastic shield of Vi-ko) are ø8x25mm. Taking advantage of the fact that axial is clearly visible on the plastic molding of the body of the drill, we dance from it 4 mm in both directions.

We cut out the window with a chisel, especially without going deep as there is a stiffener inside, on which you need to put a peephole.

We clamp the rod into the drill chuck, the other end of which is clamped in a vise by the control level.

In this position, lubricate the cut window with glue and insert the eye, respectively exposing the air bubble in the desired position.

Let the glue dry and proceed to the next stage of modernization.
We cut a circular level into the “back of the head” of the drill, the dimensions of which are ø14x8mm. (They were ordered by Aliexpress for a sundial, but were a bit late) To do this, first cut a small area to drill a hole of small diameter (the relief on the handle is quite complicated),

Chisel select the hole under the eye. There is not much space there, but for the peephole, if you sharpen it a little, it will be enough.

The eye is glued naturally only to one side of the body.

Adjustment is done until the glue has dried.

In final form, an electric drill looks like this:

Well, in conclusion, I want to say that this is not the end of work on this drill. As they say to be continued ...
8.6
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21 a comment
I used the clutch all my life.
Author
I don’t use it as a percussion device, for this I have a hammer drill, and time will tell.
Here the question arises - over time, such a level gauge does not shift from vibration?
Author
Neither one nor the other, just shot at an angle.
yeah and more about the eye. my boss has a phenomenal quality. on a hundred meters of cable at the facility, the error in estimating the required footage is 50 centimeters. without roulettes and lasers. with transitions ups and downs, corners and other mounting nonsense. after it, 5 times we checked with a laser, then spat. useless. that’s just a person’s sense of object.
I personally hrenachat a punch with a punch at 80 centimeters, I get into the cross on the other hand.
Yes, there was still a case hammering an old building in Krasnodar with a punch. measured with a laser tape measure 10 times.
Bullshit. until they spotted that the difference in floor, wall and ceiling is a meter. again. ceiling a meter thick. wood alternates with concrete. For proof - my installation of intercoms. Clinic at Poluyana Ross dent.
or I'm oblique or the level on the bar is already crooked
cooler than the eye and straight arms - only a rifle with optics. although the thing is interesting
Author
Found it is Interskol DU-13 / 780ER. There is also a power-on indicator.
Author
How do you imagine a gyroscope on a drill? And I repeat again, the accuracy here is relative, = / + 2 degrees, which is quite enough for a hand tool.
I also saw a finished drill with a level only the brand I do not remember it seems Dutch. Relative accuracy if there are perfect vertical or horizontal planes. For alcohol levels, you need long straight guides and then they give an error, alcohol is still)). More precisely use a laser. And the curvature of the drilling appears while pressing the drill, then the hand trembles and walks from vibration and when there is no time to look at the level.Therefore, the drilling machine really does not replace. It’s not bad to put a massive gyroscopic disk on the cartridge to smooth out these festivities of the drill and add a compensator for the “not perfect” vertical or horizontal (goniometer)
Come on! I drill with a drill in any plane, by eye, fine. I wrote "partly useful," for installing locks completely.
Sorry, but theorist is more felt ...)))). In reality, such an exact level will not be precisely verified! Because you need, basically, some kind of guideline on which you need to "estimate" the inclination of the drill. And in the horizontal plane it is not needed at all - it is already clearly visible!
And about the “board at an angle of 32 degrees” - then let's somehow provide for the caterpillars leaving the bottom of the Zhiguli ... And what? ... Suddenly, you will have to drive sometime across a plowed field ....) ))))
Quote: mku986
Only vertically mounted planes can be drilled correctly horizontally
And this is the absolute majority of typical drilling cases when accuracy must be observed, such as the installation of locks and door hinges.
Quote: mku986
the level does not save from the blockage to the right and left.
But the eye gauge saves from this with sufficient accuracy.
Author
I don’t often have to drill horizontal and vertical holes either, this is mainly an inset of locks and, even less often, horizontal wooden beams. In the case of angular drilling, we resort to the “help of a friend” coordinating above-below, right-left. And yes, the accuracy of the bubble level is +/- 2 degrees, if it does not work, you must make a conductor.
Usefulness is only partly. Correctly drilling horizontally can only vertically installed planes relative to the horizon, and then the level does not save from the dam left and right. Similarly, only horizontally mounted planes can be drilled vertically, and in two coordinates. And if you need to drill a board installed at an angle, for example, 32 degrees? Therefore, the drill should be positioned relative to the drilled plane, not the horizon.
Really useful idea!
Author
And I thought, either German (they are practical people) or Chinese, they shove everything everywhere, even at roulettes, and accuracy is not guaranteed there. And I switched to Interskol for about five years, probably.
Interskol, about 8 years ago I bought. True level is only on top.
Author
You don’t push any part into the drilling machine. And an interesting brand of drill with a level, I have not seen such yet.
And on my drill the level is already integrated. Of course it turns out smoother, but far from the drilling machine.

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