» Car DIY »The right tool from old brake pads

The right tool from old brake pads

Car DIY / Instruments
Added 17 comments
Useful tool.
Good day to all.

For the manufacture of such devices, the author required such materials.

A pair of worn brake pads, from the front disc brakes.

M-12 bolt 12 cm long.

Nut to him.

M-6 bolt 3 cm long.

And a small piece of chain.

First of all, the author removed the remnants of friction material from the blocks using angle grinders.


Further, having folded two pads together, in the center he piled the place of the future hole.

Then he made through holes in both pads with a diameter of 6 mm.

Further, in one of the pads, the author increased the hole to 12 mm.

Then he installed a bolt and screwed a nut on it.


Then I welded the nut to the block.

In order not to damage the threads on the bolt during welding, the author put a piece of metal tube on the bolt.

After the center of the bolt, the author made a hole of 5 mm.


And I cut the thread under the M-6 bolt.


Then he cut off all the excess.


And painted.

And while the paint was dry, he took the chain.

And cut off from her three links.

Then he welded these links, as shown in the photo.

After to the welded chain links, the author welded a bolt.

When all the details homemade were ready.

The author began to build. The large bolt is screwed into the nut on the block.

The second block is attached to the large bolt, using a small bolt.


According to the author, a prerequisite: the second block should not be tightly clamped, it should rotate.

Apply this adapt, the author will be when installing new brake pads.

In order to change the brake pads, you need to push the piston back into the cylinder. With such a tool, it will not be difficult. It is enough to install the tool in the brake caliper.

And rotate the bolt.

As the bolt rotates, the tool plates press the piston back into the cylinder. And having pressed the piston, new brake shoes will fall into place without problems.

That's all. Thank you all and see you soon.
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Added 17 comments

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17 comments
0
Reply To quote A complaint
And what's the point of releasing the cap on the tank? If it is airtight, the vacuum will not allow TJ to penetrate into the working cavities of the GTZ, so there is drainage in the lid.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Nruter
If I had written right away what it was for, I would not have looked.
Here they wrote that for the workshop this is a good adapt :)) So it suits only, for example, for VAZ. And what, do this separately for each car model?
But on the rear brakes, the pistons should not be pressed, but screwed in. Moreover, some cars clockwise, and some counterclockwise.

I agree, I changed the rear pads on the Corolla, at the same time as pressing there, I need to screw the piston in. Ordinary wrenches and wiring does not do this - I had to use a clamp and a wrench to tighten the nuts of the motorcycle exhaust pipes.
In this homemade product, I think one block is enough, and under the bolt you can put a nut or metal plate.
+3
Reply To quote A complaint
Even if the tool is done for work for which the tool is not needed ??? )))))
P.S. But we all know about Yu-Tube!)))))
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
The elephant was inflated from a fly. The most important tool for work, and not how I can.
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
What does Moskvich have to do with his drum rear brakes? Take, for example, the very common Chevrolet Cruze. There, the rear brake cylinders need to be screwed in. And for this, the key to the "grinder" is ideal.
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
"Looks like a liter ogrel
What is so noticeably picked up .... "

............... V.S. Vysotsky. "Looks" ....


Inspired by Korolev’s ratings)))))))
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Yes. I don’t remember that they need to be screwed. Right now I’m leaving, in the garage I’m looking at the old VAZ cylinder.
Or maybe he's talking about rear discs? I don’t know about them.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Is this about drumming?
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Firstly, for this you need to get up and open the hood)))).
Secondly, an open tank lid will still not allow you to squeeze the cylinder, say, just with your thumb.))))
So it’s easier for me - I pressed the slons, with the other hand I slightly weakened the nipple, pressed it in and then clamped it. Quick, easy.
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
You can make universal. Reduce the size, I think all models will go. And about the rear, the first time I hear about the "screw." Always squeezed. Moskvich, 2109, Nissan.
+5
Reply To quote A complaint
The first time I hear about such a barbaric way. It is quite enough to unscrew or simply loosen the cap on the expansion tank on the brake master cylinder.
+5
Reply To quote A complaint
If I had written right away what it was for, I would not have looked.
Here they wrote that for the workshop this is a good adapt :)) So it suits only, for example, for VAZ. And what, do this separately for each car model?
But on the rear brakes, the pistons should not be pressed in, but screwed in. Moreover, on some cars clockwise, and on some counterclockwise.
+8
Reply To quote A complaint
The right tool from old brake pads
Great name! But why not "cool"? Why, in order to understand what kind of garbage is this, you need to look through the entire description to the end ?!
0
Reply To quote A complaint
In general, if you change it once, then of course it is not needed, but if a person is a car mechanic for example, then the right thing.
+4
Reply To quote A complaint
I always pressed the pistons with whatever came to hand. And from an old block I made a stripper for a motokosa. There, when replacing the seals, the flywheel must be removed. The puller has the same appearance as this puller, with only one half.
+3
Reply To quote A complaint
A similar situation was observed among carpenters, one of them bred the saw teeth with an ax. To my question about the special wiring (it is called separation) I got the answer- "I’ll still carry extra piece of iron with me, and then two teeth at a time."
+7
Reply To quote A complaint
Slightly let go of the "nipple", gave a little editing (from the "nipple" a little splashed). and at the same time held the nipple back with the other hand ...
This is what I do ....
..It's probably wrong !!! Probably, you need to do the adaptation so as not to specifically unscrew the nipples (we are not looking for easy ways!))))).

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