» Electronics »This device will extend the life of household appliances

This device will extend the life of household appliances.

Good day, dear the inhabitants of our site!
In this article, AKA KASYAN will show how to make a protective device for electrical appliances 220V.

Any of you was faced with the fact that when you connect a household appliance to the network, a spark is formed in the outlet with a characteristic click.

If the device is too powerful, then even the formation of a voltage drop in the network is possible.
This was noticeable in the era of incandescent lamps, when the filament dimmed when starting, for example, a refrigerator or a grinder.


Power tools, power adapters of various devices, and most household appliances.

All of them, when connected to the network, at the very beginning, consume a very large current from the network for a very short time. It can be tens or even hundreds of times higher than their rated operating current.
This is called inrush current.

Very often, the engine of your washing machine or the power supply of your computer fails precisely because of this.
In switching power supplies there are capacitive capacitors, when you connect the power supply to the network, these capacitors are charged with colossal current, which must be limited, otherwise it will be bad.

Of course, the manufacturer somehow limits the starting current by using thermistors.

But this is not always enough.
The same thing with the engine from the refrigerator, washing machine, electric drill and so on.

They also quite often use some system to mitigate the launch.
But given the fact that the modern market is designed for a fool, naturally, the quality of the components used in many devices is at a low level.

The thin wires used to wind the motor windings often burn out, unable to withstand high inrush currents.


Yes and electronics also not eternal thing.

Today we will consider a device that will help to significantly extend the life of any household device.

You now have an external softstarter.
This scheme provides a smooth start of the load with a delayed on.

It is assembled based on a relay.

Yes, the relay contacts are not eternal, but they will last at least a few years.

The input of the device through a switch is connected to a 220V network.
The output is connected to the load that needs to be protected.

Here it is necessary to note the following point.

If you are going to use this system for smooth start-up of power tools, then you need to use the button on the tool itself as a switch. It is important.

When the switch closes, the mains power, through powerful current-limiting resistors, is supplied to the load. For example, an electric drill.

These resistors themselves limit the current, and the drill starts smoothly without jerks and power surges.

After a while, the delay system is activated, and the relay closes.

Now the power to the load is supplied through the relay contacts, bypassing the resistors.

By that time, our drill was already working, though it was not spinning at full capacity.
And now, after the relay is triggered, it receives the full voltage from the network.

In other words, we slightly twisted the drill with a weak voltage, thereby eliminating a large inrush current, then applied the full voltage, that's all.

The same will happen if a computer power supply is connected through this device.

First, the capacitors built into the power supply will smoothly charge through the resistors.

As soon as they are charged, the relay will trip and the full supply voltage will come.

And since the capacitors are already charged, a large inrush current is eliminated.
Consider the ongoing processes in more detail.
When the circuit is connected to the network, power is initially supplied to the load through the limiting resistors R5, R6. At the same time, the mains voltage, through the limiting resistor R1 and the ballast capacitor C1, is supplied to the on-delay circuit.

This part of the circuit is a simple transformerless power source.

The output current of the circuit depends on the capacitance of the capacitor. Next, the voltage is rectified by the bridge VD1 and smoothed by the capacitor C2, in parallel with which the Zener diode VD2 and the high-resistance resistor R2 are connected.

The zener diode limits the output voltage to 18 V, extinguishes all unnecessary on itself.

A resistor discharges the capacitor after disconnecting the circuit from the 220V network, providing quick opening of the relay contacts.
A voltage divider is assembled on these resistors.

Through the upper resistor R3, the delay capacitor C3 is smoothly charged.

And when it reaches a voltage sufficient to unlock the transistor VT1, the latter will work by supplying power to the relay coil. As a result, the relay will also work, the contacts will close, and the power supply from the 220V network, bypassing the powerful resistors, will go to the main load.
The VD3 diode, connected in parallel with the relay coil, is designed to protect the transistor.

Since when the relay opens, the self-induction voltage from the coil can break through the transition of the transistor.

Let's talk about the components.

Resistor R1 at 220 Ohm, in principle, can be excluded from the circuit, replacing it with a jumper.
A film capacitor C1, with a voltage of 250-400 V with a capacity of 0.33 to 1 μF.
Electrolytic capacitors C2 and C3 must be taken with a voltage of 25-35V

The first capacitor C2 is used as a power filter, and its capacitance can be from 47 to 470 μF.
The delay time of the relay operation depends on the capacity of the second capacitor C3. The larger the capacity, the greater the delay and vice versa.
A transistor of almost any reverse conductivity, with a collector current of 1 A or more, costs BD139 in the circuit.

Zener diode with a power of 1W, stabilization voltage from 12 to 24V.
The limiting resistors R5 and R6 can have a resistance of 10 to 33 Ohms and a power of 5W.
It is advisable to take 15-20ohm.

Current limiting circuits can be calculated according to Ohm's law.

Relays with a 12 V coil. The relay current depends on your needs.
If you use a good relay, for example at 10A, then loads with a capacity of about two kilowatts can be connected to the circuit.

The power paths on the printed circuit board must be strengthened with solder.


Project submitted by AKA KASYAN.



All good homemade!



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21 a comment
A KT-817G transistor must be used on a 10 A relay (KT-815G does not pull), and an even more powerful transistor is needed on a 20-30A relay
But do not you confuse the current through the contacts and the current through the relay winding? scratch
Guest Alex
tested the device on power tools-works. A shunt from a diode is more practical, because 5-10 watts resistors. the air burns out (parallel at 50 W. - get warm). A heistor with a radiator will take up more voltages than a relay. A KT-817G transistor must be used on a 10 A relay (KT-815G does not pull), and an even more powerful transistor is needed on a 20-30A relay. Now I’m racking my brains to use the device as an extension cord .
it is necessary to bypass not resistors, but a diode that cuts half and does not heat up

Is it really impossible to replace the relay with a triac and forget about burning contacts ?!

To protect refrigerators and other things, I recommend putting a voltage relay (not Chinese} on the whole apartment or house
Valery
Speaks correctly Pronin , in the refrigerator, the motor has two stator and starting windings. The start-up only works from 5 to 10 ms (milliseconds) when the motor is turned on, then the stator winding is turned on, the motor is similar to that in machine tools (turning or milling). The motors of modern refrigerators consume about 100 W, but at the time of start-up, these 5-10 ms, the consumption is about 2500 W! Masters who repair refrigerators recommend turning on the refrigerator again (repeatedly) no earlier than after 5-10 minutes, because the starting winding may burn out. My Uncle has a modern cold. burned out due to power surges, the power supply for some reason does not admit guilt, it’s difficult to argue with them or sue them, then I had to pay for the repair myself somewhere 7000 grew. rubles
Well, yes, here we have more ancient ones. Well, just like modern women are sissy, but in fact they are quite hardy. The truth is I do not know about the "brains", are they afraid of power surges. The old ones are brainless))
Almost every year we dig a trench to a transformer in the yard. Zarobitchans from the southern republics manually pull the cable. Add consumers. Either a new store or garages. And then a new building. Called - point building. How the networks withstand, I do not know. A friend fell (cut down). Well, I think there was a trance in the yard. No, include at night. We have no grounding. In new homes, it seems there is already a third wire.
These dviguny do not like voltage dips (sharp).

I know that. In the summer cottages, the neighbors burned when one neighbor switched on home-made welding ....
So then at the dachas ... There they initially "gave" one kilowatt per plot at a 50 percent load !!! And now there are kilowatts in every consumer’s house there! So it sags to 180 sometimes ...
But in the city, or in the village !!! ... Moreover, now that every apartment or village house has two and a half squares of copper, plus land everywhere. What, nafig, drawdowns cramps ?!
I don’t know what year, I probably already over 13 years old

This does not impress me at all !!!!
I now have Minsk-130 in the kitchen.


(The photo is not mine. From the network. Mine looks better.).

My daughter has been itching for a long time about buying a new refrigerator, but I reply that let herself buy whatever she wants with her husband! (Wedding in 2 weeks). And this one suits me !!! Big! Comfortable!...
He was bought by me two months after the wedding! At that time, for a really terrible amount !!! He then stood double against the "ordinary" - who had no freezer downstairs. I remember how my wife said, “Maybe it’s cheaper to take it?” ... And I answered: “I don’t have money to change refrigerators !!! We’ll buy a good one and forget about ten years !!! ..... TEN ....) )))
... was young ... Naive ...
This year we have a silver wedding ....
And this means that it works without disconnecting for 25 years !!!!
IN REPAIR WAS NOT !!!
In the house I bought (which I am rebuilding now) there was a working Dnepr, judging by the nameplate of the 59th year of release. I gave it to my brother in the village. Works...
I don’t know which year I have, I guess he is already over 13 years old. It worked for me for a year without a relay at all - it did not burn out and did not even overheat. What differences he experienced - horror. And welding, and thunderstorms, constantly splitting in the network, all do not care))
Right now, Bosch is standing, let's see how long it lasts. When he brought it, it didn’t turn on, that's all. Thought kaput. It turned out he was frozen !!))) Although there were no frosts, it was April ... He stayed at home, warmed up and wound up.
Quote: Valery
And not only because it is asynchronous in the refrigerator, but collector in the drill, but also with power !!! "The refrigerator is weaker! Accordingly, its starting currents are" miserable ", taking into account the features of its motor ...
And, most importantly .... Have I missed something in this life?))). Already have refrigerators in which the engines burn out ???))) ...

The electric motors in the compressor are not entirely simple. They have specials. winding - starting. They burned out before and now import sales. These dviguny do not like voltage dips (sharp). And the starting winding is designed for short-term operation ... And you need to at least primitively clean the contacts of the starting relay.
New Standard,
Yes, I'm talking about something else!
... The motors in the refrigerator and drills differ significantly, I agree. And not only because it is asynchronous in the refrigerator, but collector in the drill, but also with power !!!! "The refrigerator is weaker! Accordingly, its starting currents are" miserable ", taking into account the features of its motor ...
And, most importantly .... Have I missed something in this life? )))). Already have refrigerators in which the engines burn out ???)))) ...
... Simply, in my concept, an asynchronous engine that does not have brushes and works in an oil bath is exactly the part that always survives all the other parts of the refrigerator! )))))
New Standard,
Quote: New Standard
The thing that you got in the store is probably a "cutter"

Thank you for the information, and it really scratched my hands to disassemble - see, now you can safely wait for the warranty to expire, and then still disassemble - see! smile
At the expense of "thick freon" I am a little hyperbolizing, but still, freon resists rotation, especially at the time of launch. The thing that you got in the store is probably a "cut-off", it turns off the refrigerator when the voltage in the network grows, in the middle a banal relay of 221 c)) they are often steamed
Quote: New Standard
I just want to design a similar scheme, install it on the refrigerator, but it probably will not start like a drill, or it will start, who knows? And to arbitrarily untwist the compressor shaft, and then turn on the power will not work either

In a simple refrigerator, the compressor motor is switched on via a start-up relay. He does not need this prelude.
Washing machines have different electric motors. and different switching schemes. For example, I have Hansa with an electric drive. with sensor (tachometer). It is controlled by a controller. It smoothly accelerates and sets a different speed rpm. This prelude is not needed here.
For power supplies, the computer is also doubtful. There is a filter and a thermistor.
This prelude would be suitable for self-made (simplified) welders and self-made power supplies with large cans C at the entrance.
Valery
"And what will become of the fridge ???"
I don’t know about “thick freon”, but when I bought a refrigerator, my wife got some kind of adapter (it was put into a socket, a refrigerator in it), a box of decent size, I still couldn’t make out, I can’t say what's inside.
Author
wait until tomorrow ... well, before dinner, in the sense that if you will design. I’ll post an article, there it’s suitable for a refrigerator
Author
There is still an article, it is still hanging with me in draft, but I have not yet found a better description for the simplest schemes. And the article will have to be rewritten for a long and tedious period, the presentation is very poor there.
Though...I’ll think in the morning, maybe in a simple form I bang.
Author
I think that if the delay on the relay is set to 0.04 seconds - to pass only two periods 220 through the resistors - the refrigerator will say thanks.
Again, the resistors can be put 2-5 Ohms.
The main idea is that the peak of the sine wave does not fly in at the first moment.
After all, the trick is how long the delay should be set to turn on the relay. For each device - its own.
In the refrigerator, however, the engine type is different than in the drill, and a large starting current is needed to start rotation in an environment with a stationary, thick freon
And with a refrigerator what will it become ???
I just want to design a similar scheme, install it on the refrigerator, but it probably will not start like a drill, or it will start, who knows? And to arbitrarily untwist the compressor shaft, and then turn on the power will not work either

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