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Question on pouring a wooden floor

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There is a wooden floor, already old, strong, but the boards are hunchbacked. There is an idea to make a cement screed on it. Infa in the internet is not enough. Who faced the problem? The tile will be on top.

1. What is the minimum screed thickness?
2. How to fill, on beacons?
3. Do I need to reinforce something (mesh, etc.)

Other inexpensive floor leveling ideas are welcome.
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46 comments
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Reply To quote A complaint
And why is everyone silent about Liquid Glass?
+1
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He putty the joints between the timber at the well, which hasn’t fallen off yet. Then he covered with a protective compound from above. Advised Penoplex, but an expensive infection. I took some of ours. He has different colors. But at a cheaper price than yours. It seems Penoplex is also cheaper. Wash something like "Our Cottage." But you may not have one.
+1
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Well, offhand: My webpage
+1
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And we also have on sale special "gap fillers" based on mounting adhesives ("Liquid Nails"). They are sold in the same tubes under the gun and are selected by color. They are sometimes called "Parquet Sealant".
Author 0
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They say it disappears
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I won’t say ... I don’t know ...
I would just buy a putty for wood ...))))
Author 0
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Valery,
Well, are they with sex paint, nitsche? what to interfere with, PVA?
+1
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Or maybe PVA glue and chalk there or some other filler? I will not find so much sawdust.

I think there will be more sawdust than necessary))). But they will be "dirty" - this is another question ...
As for the chalk - I did not try ... I don’t know ... It would not have crashed later on from vibrations. Here the composition must be elastic, because the wooden floor vibrates a lot ...
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
We simply do not call it "oil".)))) Therefore, I did not understand. We positioned it as a "wood preservative."))))
By the way, if manufacturers write that "one layer is enough" - they often prevaricate! The first layer is absorbed completely, leaving no film ... Sometimes the second ...
Author 0
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Yes, of course .. I'm afraid of these discs, I'm afraid of all the heavy ones.
+1
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Be neater with him

And "literally" is also more accurate. About these circles, I usually say that they "pretend to be good, although, in fact, they are evil !!"
That's what you need to be afraid of more than a "toothy saw" !!! After that muscle they can still grow together (if the bones are not cut). And after that there will be nothing to grow together !!! At the slightest touch, this circle simply destroys the muscle, "gnawing" terrible holes !!!
MANDATORY with two hands and with add. handle !!!
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
I bought a petal at 37

Be careful with it - you can make deep ditches. Only on "quite tubercles" apply, followed by grouting "ribbon".
... Yes, and the "ribbon" of the ditch makes ... For this, the "orbiter" is better suited ..
But ... "For lack of a maid, the master had to fuck the janitor"))))). What remains to be done)))).
Author -1
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Or maybe PVA glue and chalk there or some other filler? I will not find so much sawdust.

Here is the butter OIL LINK

reference 2

reference 3
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What would cover the cracks, so as not to fall off?

Cracks in wooden floors are usually filled with wood dust from their own grinding, mixed with the varnish that is being painted.
But here the dust will no longer be wooden, but "old-paint", and no varnish is expected.))))
I think to paint with some oil,

And what kind of "some kind of oil" ?. Is there some kind of wood impregnation?
Author 0
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I bought a flap on 37 and a gray grit tape on the grinder 40. Tape type with a strong stone, work on metal, peel off paint and so on.

Suggestions, wishes?

I think I’m painting with some oil, my wife chose a couple there, I don’t know what. What would cover the cracks, so as not to fall off?
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Dmitrij,
On site, see below.
Author 0
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And where was the record that you climb under the floor between rooms? Yesterday he neighed all evening, could not fall asleep. Today I can’t find a couple.
Author 0
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Thank you very much for the consultation, we will think ... Laminate of course turns out to be 2 times more expensive than linoleum ... but ... and there are many pluses.
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Though with a substrate, even without it ...

Without a substrate, the laminate will NEVER fit !!! Once upon a time, before he acquired the "locks", he was put on mastic. But now this does not happen !!!
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Yes ... Stock up with blades if you cut with a jigsaw. Monstrously devours their laminate. I cut a grinder with a circle on wood. (But I do not advise them to use people without proper experience! He is terribly dangerous !!!!). And even the victorious solders "leave" very quickly ...
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Reply To quote A complaint
I looked at the picture of the floor ... I would not bother. Normally, the laminate will lie across it !!!!
The room can be put in an hour !!! Skirting boards (if the walls are wooden) - another hour.
My friend and I recently went to a neighboring town (90 km from Brest) a day ago and laid a laminate on about the same plank floor in his mother’s apartment! This, together with the fact that we took out all the furniture, laid the backing, laminate, and brought the furniture back ....
At the same time, the apartment was "not ready" for this - they simply drove off and laid it while the mother was away ... (That is, we unloaded all the furniture from clothes, dishes, crystal and other things, carried it out, and then brought everything back !))))) At the same time, they "went out" to them in the corridor and put it there ... With a huge number of clippings.
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I did not measure, there is a lot of furniture, maybe everything is crooked here, then there will be trouble with the laminate too.

Put something flat across the boards and look ... If anything, you can remove particularly strong knolls with the same grinder ...
+2
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pogranec,
Laminate breaks in locks ONLY if an unevenness ("step" formed by a bulging board) is located ALONG the castle.
If you put it across the boards (as I advised), breaking it is simply unrealistic !!!
Dmitry: With uneven floors DO NOT under any circumstances choose a laminate without locks at the ends !!! There is one - in its ends there is simply a groove on one side and a "spike" on the other. And it is much cheaper! It is very easily mounted by one person (one board each). But it is intended for laying on PERFECTLY smooth surfaces !!! A little difference in height - and it will creep !!!!.
If you take a thicker laminate (10 or more mm) with locks at the ends (the same as along the long side plane), then laying it will be much more difficult - helpers will be required. Because first you will need to connect the entire strip to the length (width) of the room, and then only all of it at the same time “snap” into the already laid!
At the end, even with a transverse difference in height, it never breaks through the castle! Because it fits "with dressing" - the seam will be reinforced on two sides with solid boards, for which the "torn" board will be fixed with longitudinal locks.
If you want the most budget option, buy a roll of 3 mm foam backing (maximum thickness). Roll it and (necessarily) fasten it with a masking tape or ordinary tape. So close the whole floor !!! Then start laying the laminate THROUGH the floor boards. Connect a solid strip of lamellas to the entire desired length (cut the last). Lay along the wall. When she lies, she will "show" all the roughnesses of the floor. Minor (up to 3 mm) can be neglected - the substrate will eventually flatten in “thin” places and remain as a filler in the “thick” ones. If the differences are significant, put on these boards strips of the same substrate in the second row, or .... whatever fits!)))) (Strips of fiberboard, plywood and even a corrugated cardboard of suitable thickness). The main thing is not to “play” much when stepping on the foot! Next - see for yourself. You can start the second lane with the cut off balance. You can cut it a little. (It is necessary to watch that the difference between the seams at the ends of the lamellas of adjacent rows should be at least 30 centimeters!
When buying a laminate, do not beite a large supply !!! As my experience has shown, in any room with MAXIMUM residues - 0.5 squares !!! Because the scraps remain almost exclusively from the longitudinal cutting of the last row !!! ... Well, the last transverse trim from the last lamella ...
Do not forget about the "thermal gap" along the walls. Do not look at what they write on the Internet - do it from 8 to 15 mm. (Skirting surely closes 2 cm.
When choosing a laminate, do not pay attention to its class !!! This is a MARKETING STROKE !!! The class is determined by the number of revolutions of the wooden workpiece, pressed with a certain force to the surface until the protective layer is completely wiped !!! I have been in good condition 23rd grade for 14 years !!! (Then the other was not easy!)))). And you won’t notice the difference between the 31st and 33rd !!! (Only in price is it significant !!!)
In your case (uneven base) you need to pay attention to the thickness of the base and (as already mentioned) the presence of end locks !!!
And further. ANY laminate is moisture resistant (relatively) on its plane. Moisture is only afraid of seams !!! So, if it is not much more expensive with waxed locks - take one. If not, you can handle the locks yourself before laying them with wax or paraffin. (But this is hemorrhagic!))))))
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Laminate with a large difference breaks on the locks. Yes, a knoll or seam on it will not be visible, but over time it will break the locks.
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Parquet Grinding
Author 0
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Quote: Valery
What big area ??? Is there a belt sander, no? The skin is coarser, and to hell, remove the bumps with the paint together. Nails are dug with a blunt punch (if necessary). Fuss, of course, a lot, if you expel under the varnish ...
And if "for quick ..."
Then put something on top.
But, instead of linoleum, all the same I advise the laminate !! The price is the same!
A 3 mm substrate will hide lekko swings. Where more - double the substrate. Where is the centimeter at all - scraps of laminate, plywood and other things under the substrate.

The whole Internet unanimously claims that the laminate is laid on a perfectly flat surface. Given that I do not have experience with laminate in general, I can not imagine how to lay it on a bumpy layer. Although with a substrate, even without it ... I did not measure, there is a lot of furniture, maybe everything is crooked here, then there will be trouble with the laminate too.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
What big area ??? Is there a belt sander, no? The skin is coarser, and to hell, remove the bumps with the paint together. Nails are dug with a blunt punch (if necessary). Fuss, of course, a lot, if you expel under the varnish ...
And if "for quick ..."
Then put something on top.
But, instead of linoleum, all the same I advise the laminate !! The price is the same!
A 3 mm substrate will hide lekko swings. Where more - double the substrate. Where is the centimeter at all - scraps of laminate, plywood and other things under the substrate.
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Reply To quote A complaint
Here it is possible under linoleum, but the laminate will break.

Sorry, but you wrote exactly the opposite!)))
Break the laminate .... Well, except that some very heavy trolley on iron wheels to ride on it!)))). And so that he does not play, putting him, where the difference in centimeter, just put something ...
But linoleum (modern) will repeat and show all the smallest irregularities, and with a “step” of 2 mm or more, it will burst in a year!
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Reply To quote A complaint
Drive nails deeper (surface). If the board is not held, pull out and tighten the screws (and so that the hat does not stick out). I scooped it up manually (a piece of iron with a handle), in some places a plane. It is dust free!
It is possible with a rough skin (without thin), if under linoleum.
Author 0
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What kind of car? How to do it? There are nails. With a grinder?
+1
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It was similar. Slots between the boards ... Some kind of mastic filled with paint. And before that I cleaned the cracks with a screwdriver (chisel). And painted on top with floor paint. It was a long time ago ... then there were few opportunities. The ventilation holes were in the floor (at the corners). Cockroaches, etc. evil spirits penetrated. Put fine nets (steel) and generally closed. Then came the fashion for linoleum. And yes, it needs to be thicker and stronger (Soviet or its analogue). In some places the boards swayed (the nail was shaken). So the addition of a screw (maybe a choice !!). Cycle slightly with a vacuum cleaner more powerful.
And the paints are non-sounding (not just like before - painted ... and 2 days it dried and a week (or more) was sticky ... smiles
+1
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Do you have a rental tool? Maybe you can rent a hauling and trim it?
Author 0
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I don’t know what to do with it :( to cover the cracks and paint? What to coat? Here are layers of old paint, you need to peel it off with something. Everything will stink, shorter than the fuss. Here they decided to throw linoleum. But which one? I need some strong and fat, like the Soviet one. And the floor hi rots, dick with it, it will be easier to remove it later and make another yes



The boards are hilly, the cheto has pushed out the middle. And at the junction of the fossa.
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And I have a space under the floor .... I creep from one end of the house to the other (there is a water pipe there). Already the thought was to dig a room under the house. Stops soil removal.
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If the swings are large, the substrate will not align. Here it is possible under linoleum, but the laminate will break.
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In general, I am of this "romance" with ventilated wooden floors on the logs, which rest against the "pillars" of brick, ate completely, living in the village, in full!)))). You can’t make such a floor warm in winter !!!! And close the ventilation - it rots in a couple of years ...
Now, remodeling the old house, plucked to to fuck... to hell with the dog, all floors (although they were strong, I messed up with building rubble with sand, poured thin screed, and then five centimeters of polystyrene and a final screed with damper separation from the outer walls! ... I, however, plan a pipe roll into it and make heating, but even without it, such a floor will not be cold - it heats up from the air in the room, and it does not give polystyrene to the heat down and to the walls.
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I would advise, as a "budget way" - to throw a laminate across the boards (if they do not creak). The substrate will "eat" the defects.
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In no case!!!!
If the "air" is ventilated under the floor, it will rot as soon as concrete appears on top and something like this, between them, or inside the tree, a "dew point" is formed.
If there is no ventilation under the tree, it will rot even faster.)))))
The only thing, if you really want concrete, is to fill the reinforced thick slab ... (the floor will act as the formwork, and then - and let it rot!)))))
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
And why cement? You need to go to a large hardware store, there are all kinds of mixtures. Maybe you’ll pick it up. Or, as you are advised, a little trim and lay the material for alignment (forgot the name, the substrate for the laminate). It is of different thicknesses. And on top you can already linoleum for example. Linoleums are now safe for living rooms.
By the way, epoxy after solidification is safe.
-1
Reply To quote A complaint
If the unevenness of the floor is not very deep, then OSB can be used, but it is moisture-proof and load-resistant, the joints there are not always smooth and it sometimes happens that chips break off from it (poorly tarred with glue), but not always
Author 0
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That deformation is serious plus old paint. And the epoxy is toxic, at home the child ...
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Can the floor itself lie with a grinder? And if the holes are filled with epoxy (mixture with sawdust, thyra). In winter it will be cold from the tiles, with a tree warmer
Author 0
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understandably, it’s better not to risk it. What do you do? Sew OSB?
+1
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If the logs are on the ground, then I think it’s not worth cementing, for cement there should be a substrate of sand and gravel. Boards from the ground can take moisture, swell, rot, especially when there is cement on top, from which it can crack, when thin, the film will not give much, except that if it is bi between the ground and the floor
Author -1
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Do not bend, strong. Well, what, logs are probably some to which they are nailed
+2
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What under the wooden floor? I would not put a thin layer of cement (1-2 cm) on boards that can bend

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