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Chimney of a brick wood burning stove

Chimney of a brick wood burning stove


The chimney is one of the most important elements of the furnace, the correct operation and operability of which determines the reliable operation of the furnace, especially in critical conditions (for example, kindling), and the fire safety of the entire structure. Most of the chimney is mostly hidden from daily look - the attic, as a rule, is not the most visited room, but meanwhile, it, the pipe, requires regular inspections and, in general, the closest attention to its serviceability.

General Provisions



The fact is that it is the chimney that creates the draft - air intake from below, by raising the hot gases up. And if in the furnace itself, with its furnace, a slight rarefaction and any leakage is created, it threatens us only with a deterioration in the efficiency of the unit, then in the chimney, the pressure is already positive, and the higher it is from the ground, the more positive. Leaks in the body of the pipe already threaten to throw out hot gas and sparks. This is especially dangerous near wooden structures - in the place of passage of ceilings, roof elements.

During the operation of wood-burning stoves, a fair amount of experience has been accumulated, simple structural techniques and measures have been mastered to minimize the risk of fire from the stove. They should be adhered to, about the furnace as an object of increased danger, it is always worth remembering. As for chimneys - for classic brick chimneys, quite safe designs of passages through floors and roofs have been developed. Brick chimneys in the attics, it is recommended to plaster and whitewash - any cracks on such a surface are clearly visible. The laying of chimneys should be performed with particular care, completely filling the joints with clay mortar. Littering the attic space, primarily around the chimney, is not allowed. Regular inspections of the chimney should be made in the attic space.

Structurally, chimneys are mounted (on top of the furnace) and root - standing separately. The latter, much more convenient in the sense of repair. In addition - part of the chimney is located outdoors - the chimney can be performed first of all, say before the cold weather. A stove or stove can be built later in a heated room.

The maintainability of the furnace with a nozzle tube is significantly lower. Despite this, the craftsmen contrived to repair the furnace almost completely by lifting the pipe with jacks.However, there is a little-known constructive solution that can significantly increase the maintainability of the furnace with a tube. For this, a thick reinforced concrete slab is cast on top of the furnace, and a pipe is built on top of it. When repairing such a furnace, one of its corners or walls can be completely disassembled at one time, without dismantling the chimney.

Adjacent to the fire expansion of the masonry - fluffing of the chimney, wooden floor structures, it is recommended to finish it with thin sheet steel, on top of which, felt soaked in liquid clay mortar, is fixed with carnations. it very good trouble indicator in a hard to reach place - when a fistula is formed in the pipe wall, the felt begins to smolder, emitting a sharp unpleasant odor, easily picked up and identifiable, even in large rooms.
Practically formed, safe dimensions during the construction of the furnace are given below.



A separate story is the good work and durability of the chimney. There are also several rules here - the height of the chimney must be significant - at least 5 m from the grate, to exclude "wind back up" and, as a result of the stove’s smoke, the pipe must have a certain height above the roof (see figure above). The inside of the chimney should be as smooth as possible - sometimes, the inside of the brick pipe is plastered or a “casing” pipe made of ceramic or stainless steel is inserted into it. This greatly simplifies the requirements for masonry pipes, increases fire safety. In the extreme case, the cross section of the chimney channel of such a pipe can be somewhat reduced - due to the smoothness of the walls, the resistance to the gas flow will not increase.

The chimney of a heat-intensive heating furnace must be “warm” - brickwork, with proper design of the furnace (a sufficiently high temperature at the entrance to the pipe) satisfies this requirement. A pipe made of more heat-conducting materials should be insulated with a non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity. Otherwise, moisture and creosote condenses in it, in the pipe, and both flows into the furnace, destroys the masonry, and causes an unpleasant smell in the room.

Another important concern when performing a chimney is to ensure a tight seal of the roof around it, preventing precipitation from entering the attic. When the pipe is made of masonry, there are reliable, time-tested designs that combine the fire expansion of the masonry (fluff) and an oblique cornice on the pipe over the roof, under which formed molded sealing elements from a metal sheet are inserted. The item is called an otter.

The passage of the chimney through the beams and rafters should be taken care of even at the stage of placing the stove in the house, while it is best to place the chimney near the ridge of the roof, this will facilitate the sealing of the roof under the otter, reduce the height of the pipe above the roof (its main part will be under roof, which will positively affect the durability of the structure), finally, the view of the house with such a chimney is the most aesthetic.

Recently, very convenient metal insulated chimneys have found application. Their inner part is made of stainless steel, the outer casing can be either stainless steel or cheaper - galvanized. The space between the pipe and the casing is filled with non-combustible thermal insulation. Chimneys meet the requirements mentioned above and are mounted from prefabricated elements, such as a designer. The assortment contains elements similar to fluff and otter, elements for connection to the furnace structure.

Formulation of the problem

For our wall furnace, they decided to make the chimney combined - under the roof a classic brick one, the conclusion for the roof - with two pieces of a two-layer metal "sandwich" pipe.We canonically make the pipe — lay it completely out of brick, we didn’t have time before the autumn rains, in addition, the outer, higher than the roof, part of the brick pipe has a rather complicated structure and is laid out on cement mortar, and we will probably have to connect it to the existing chimney later one more - a sauna stove.

Chimney arrangements

Our chimney is the smallest of the noble family of stove brick pipes - in cross section, only half of the brick is 13x13 cm. The ordering of himself and the fluff with the otter below.









What was used in the work

Instruments.
The main tool of the stove-maker is a special trowel or trowel. It is more convenient small and narrow. Certainly a cutting machine (grinder) with a diamond and ordinary abrasive disc, a heavy rubber mallet. Protective transparent visor or glasses, headphones. A set of ordinary locksmith tools, marking tools, level, better short and long. Ropes A screwdriver came in handy. For passing carpentry, an electric chain saw is very convenient. To prepare the clay-sand mixture, it is convenient to use a powerful low-speed drill with a stirrer attachment. Tanks for soaking bricks, materials, water, clay soaking. A large sieve for sifting sand and rubbing-filtering clay. A good extension cord with a pair of sockets and a carrying lamp will not hurt. To work “upstairs”, you should take care of the stairs, safety ropes in advance, a safety belt is useful.

Materials
It is clear brick, in this case the usual - clay, in the right amount. Clay, sand. Basalt cardboard. Two “joints” of the factory steel insulated “sandwich” chimney of the corresponding section, an “umbrella” to it, a transition piece, for joining with brickwork. Related trivia.

To business.

Unfortunately, the complete flaring of our pipe did not fit - the ceiling beams are installed too often and each in its nest cannot be pushed apart. You will have to wrap the passage through the ceiling in several layers with basalt mat.





The second attic floor, the height of the brick part of the pipe is chosen so that two standard pieces of “sandwich” chimney, in articulated condition, provide the desired 500 mm above the roof ridge. In the gallery you can see the parts of the metal chimney.



On a steel transition piece, we drew the outer perimeter of our pipe with an alcohol felt-tip pen and divided it into eight parts. These points should be transferred to the roof.
We used a plumb line, the transferred points were connected by a smooth line, we drew approximate cut lines. The task was to make the outward release as dense as possible, with the petals outward. With the help of these petals, improvised tools and a small bend in the stove, we planned to seal the roof at the passage of the piece of iron. Since the metal part of the chimney is very likely to be replaced by full-fledged masonry - it is spent on an additional temporary, moreover rather expensive part, which was considered unnecessary. In the end, an elastic roofing cuff is very easy to install at any time.





When cutting openings, they encountered unexpected difficulties — lighting from the outside, even on a gloomy cloudy day, was significantly higher than the inside — having cut through a small part, they completely stopped seeing the markings due to contrasting lighting. They worked with a headlamp, then spat and dragged a powerful LED spotlight. With him, the problem disappeared.

Contrary to fears, sparks did not float synthetic vapor barrier at all, even special traces remained.







Having assembled the pipe, we put it in place, got up very tightly - it was not in vain that we were busy so much with the markings.



For small high-altitude work, they did not make a special roof staircase - the roof slope was small, in non-slip shoes it was quite possible to walk without it, they only equipped Misha with good rope insurance, and he kept to it, getting to the ridge.



On top of the transition metal element, two more rows of bricks were cut and laid. The gap between the brickwork and the pipe was sealed with a strip of basalt mat - so that no debris would fill up.



It rained that day, and the rest of the work was forced to be postponed until drier time. When the roof dried up, Misha closed a gap in the roof with bituminous sealant with wide aluminum tape.
The second floor this year will be mothballed - they will winter below, near the stove. There will be no insulation under the roof, respectively, in the near future - the place of incorporation is in plain sight. As the doctors say, we’ll observe.

After finishing work.

Our furnace is finished, a week has passed since the end of the work, you can dry it with small and frequent floods. Initially, this is a small hut on the grate of arches in a finger thick. Day by day, the amount of fuel is gradually increasing. The chimney gate must always be open. Drying is performed until the outer surface of the furnace is completely dry. It is often recommended to focus on droplets of condensed water on metal valves.
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27 comments
And if a tile, or a stone. Such an insert on the contact area. Clearly fit into the design
it means hardened ... But, all the same, not glass-ceramic.
There is ordinary glass.
I tried to put a usual, even window-mounted 6 mm, when the native glass is broken with a mower and breaks from the temperature 5 minutes after switching on.
from a halogen spotlight of five hundred.

There is ordinary glass. It does not heat up to very high temperatures.
I tried it from a gas stove before. Enough for a long time, but still burst. It is just tempered glass. Not glass ceramic. Degrees of 300-400 for him - the limit! And the flame will be hotter ...
Yes, and certain sizes are needed, but cutting hardened will not work.
Yes, and God be with him. Not really expensive. Found already for $ 80. True, even sending it is not cheap (fragile), so, somewhere in the weave becomes ... I will survive ..))))
Well, I can’t paste the wall with asbestos or basalt wool on the adjacent room.))))
True, stccleramics, if you buy it by its size, costs, approximately, like a not expensive finished door,
Try to use glass from the oven of the gas stove, or, if you need a small glass, from the halogen spotlight of five hundred. I do not think that there will be problems with finding them.
Or maybe try something like a newfangled fun - a small fireplace with a large glass window (a quartz glass door)? In essence, it is a furnace of other proportions and it seems that a “heating shield” can be added to it

Good afternoon. That's exactly what I want to do ... I mean, I want to make a "potbelly stove that makes a fireplace out of itself"))))).
(With a steel firebox with a transparent door and a brick lined with a gap. The fireplace is appropriate either in country houses or in large rooms in which they "do not constantly live"))) - in the lobby, in the large living room, used only for "gatherings" ...
When someone says that he wants to make a fireplace in a small living room, I advise him to go to the village in the summer, open the stove door in a small room (which has not been heated for a long time) and try to live in this room ... breathe and smell ... ))) .. Especially good if that's all - in warm, humid weather.)))
And the aforementioned "potbelly stove" is a good compromise solution! After all, it is possible to admire the fire, and warms up due to convection, and closes tightly when not needed.
and it seems you can add a “heat shield” to it.

In my case, no. All this needs to be built in here:

And here is the chimney:


. Here are just glass doors no matter how significant sizes, pretty stand.

I am going to do everything with my own hands. Weld the firebox itself and make a door. True, glass ceramic, if you buy it in terms of size, costs about the same as an expensive finished door, but .. should I leave aviation? !!!!... shall I buy ready-made ?? !!! I won’t survive! ))). Well, I’m a sick master! )))) Moreover, winter is coming, and there will be free evenings ...)))))
But now, just that the fireplace, that the potbelly stove - both have hot exhausts. Indeed, in essence it is just a firebox.
That is, in an adjacent room, wallpaper may burn on it, plaster and other joys crack))) ...
and if some kind of isolation, now there are a lot of materials
Author
Good morning, Valery! Yeah, that’s the thing. I think, yes. It can hardly catch fire, but traces of heat exposure are easy. Or maybe try something like a newfangled fun - a small fireplace with a large glass window (a quartz glass door)? In essence, it is a furnace of different proportions and it seems that a “heating shield” can be added to it. Reduce the temperature of the flue gases, leave most of the heat in the room, use the finished pipe. Here are just glass doors no matter how significant sizes, pretty stand.
I examined the chimney in the attic. It is plastered and without cracks. Whitewashed. There are no tan marks anywhere. When I knocked out a niche under the fireplace to check the draft, I made a fire there))) (all the same, while everything inside was at the level of rough screeds)).
traction is beautiful. no soot appeared anywhere.
This is not my problem. And the fact that the back wall of the chimney in another room is part of the wall. That is, while the furnace "worked" in it, the wall, of course, was heated, but moderately. And here, a fireplace will throw "live fire" at it. After all, the chimney will begin immediately after the chimney tooth. And this stream will just "lick" the back wall. That is, in an adjacent room, wallpaper may burn on it, plaster and other joys crack))) ...
Author
Hello colleague! Yes, the chimney for the fireplace is yes, this is a crucial part, however, remember, all standard stove structures (massive stoves) have half-brick walls. Often fire chambers (without lining). Brick chimneys are also laid out in half a brick, not counting the places of cutting. Including for fireplaces. If the pipe is in satisfactory condition, I think it is quite possible to use it. Pre-examine, carry out repairs, however you yourself know everything perfectly - tea is not the first fireplace!

And then say - the fireplace is still not a heating stove, it is not so often used. Thermal shocks - yes, but the bricks will burn out less than in a regularly operating furnace (in the furnace). By the way, even in modern furnaces of periodic action, for example, country furnaces, it is quite possible to carry out a furnace without lining, in the same half brick. And the old stoves, even heating ones, all the time, the temperature-eaten bricks were simply replaced during repair.
A completely different calico in furnaces with insulated stones, where most of the heat flies into the chimney constantly, respectively, it, the chimney, is very hot. Approaching the design of the chimney in such systems is much more responsible.

So now I'm breaking my head over such a thing ...
In the old house that I am reconstructing, I broke the stove. I found a chimney riser in the partition wall into which they were brought from different rooms. (There are external walls in three bricks (self-supporting) and four (supporting). And the partitions are in the platter! There is a wall that hid a riser the size of a brick. (That is, the walls are 12.5 cm (half-brick).
The riser is located in such a place that God himself ordered a fireplace to be built there! And I, forgetting about the brains, already laid the channel and knocked out under it. And he made the foundation for the fireplace ... And then it came to light !!!! The wall of the chimney is thin! On the oven is designed. And the fireplace will “spit fire” into it. In the adjacent room the wall, I am afraid, will not heat up, but will become hot ...
So I think what to do ...The cross-section, zar-times, is 12.5 by 25. It would be 25 by 25, it would be possible to make the stainless steel pipe thinner and hammer it with glass wool. And so ... I don’t even know ...
Author
You mean my bath stove ? There, not reaching the end of the brickwork, there are three such rows; nails of 120, 4 pcs are inserted in the seams, so that the edges stick out into the channel. A stainless pipe rests on them, the gaps are sealed with basalt wool and covered with earth on top. The solution is temporary, waiting for a normal brick pipe. Termination, as the most vulnerable spot, I periodically examine. However, it should be remembered - my stove with direct heating of stones, i.e. flue gases pass through stones giving them heat. Here, stone filling is a very effective heat exchanger, in addition, there is also a down channel with a water heat exchanger. Most of the time the furnace is in, gases that are not too hot go into the pipe, their temperature rises only towards the end of the furnace, when the nozzle (stones) are heated and (almost) stop taking heat. A completely different calico in furnaces with insulated stones, where most of the heat flies into the chimney constantly, respectively, it, the chimney, is very hot. Approaching the design of the chimney in such systems is much more responsible.
Guest Eugene
Author, tell me how to add a bath pipe?
Author
And by the way, that’s all right - big economical heating stoves were done like that - a firebox in the center, channels around, a jacket - the most productive construction in terms of heat! Another thing is that there are also their own nuances. And there was no Internet, yes. And now he is. Many are surprised, but the Internet is not only “contact” with “Instagram” and tanks on the network. You can master almost any craft without leaving your home. Only desire is needed!
Author
There is no colleague, it is something more modern, I do not recommend referring to this kind of sources - it’s still torn from the old ones, plus mistakes and mediocre additions of “pure” theorists. In those years, much was written to “fill the content”. Although, to blame everything in a row is probably wrong. In any case - read carefully - think, compare. The book about which was mentioned - Schoolboy A.E. 'Stove Heating of Low-Rise Buildings' - Moscow: Higher School, 1986
Quote: Babay_Mazai
“Stoves and fireplaces in low-rise buildings” - alas, there is no title page.

This?
But I generally "picked up a few"!)))). The grandfather did the stove. And I - only one, and then on a "hunch". There was no Internet then, no books either ... I did it to my brother in the village. Heating, without stove. Built a "multi-layer" ... I mean, a "multi-shirt")))) (A smile is even dumber, because I’m inventing the terms myself now!)))). I mean, in the center the fire goes up, then, from all sides "washing" this camera, it goes down, and finally, again up the last cavity, under the outermost tile already. Attached to an existing chimney ...
It seems to be warming. Only it was bad to clean soot - two doors of everything, and four faces near the stove.
But the fireplace is already "on science" worked. The fireplace is harder ...
Author
Colleague Valery is absolutely right - the fireplace in this sense is similar to the classic Russian stove - the simplest construction, with a bunch of unobvious subtleties. Disregard them, and get an unimportant result.
Author
Good evening colleagues! This is the case (with a short sandal) - the Chukchi is not a designer of stoves, the Chukchi stove-maker. But according to observations - a large cross section of the chimney is not necessarily connected with a large firebox. There are stoves of considerable heat output, with very small fireboxes. In the well-known to me - this is one of the techniques for the implementation of "high-temperature" combustion. For example, in many furnaces of the notorious Kuznetsov. Again, bath stoves, stoves. Their chimney can be of large cross-section - for example, Finnish brick wood-burning stoves - a tiny firebox and a fair section of the chimney.

P.S.Yes, interest in the theory and all kinds of background is worthy of all respect, I recommend that you turn to the old stove textbooks. Well, for example - M.V. Malyshev "Stove business", Moscow 1961. “Stoves and fireplaces in low-rise buildings” - alas, there is no title page.
I am not interested because I have experience in building fireplaces and their operation)))). True, instead of a bundle of straw, the chimney is heated by a chimney candle, which is placed in front of the furnace on a chimney tooth (there is such an obligatory element of a chimney chimney.
So, the FUNCTIONAL fireplace is much more difficult to calculate correctly than the stove - the area of ​​the portal depends on the volume of the room and the location of the fireplace. From it - the depth of the furnace, from all this - the slope of the back wall, and, accordingly, the volume of the furnace and the size of the chimney tooth. And only then can we calculate the cross section of the chimney.
If the cross section is less than necessary, it will smoke! If more - will not warm! (To an even greater extent, it will not warm due to the incorrect ratio of the portal area to the depth of the furnace.) But if the fireplace tooth is improperly made - it is generally scary - it is fraught with a sharp discharge of the entire contents of the furnace into the room !!!
I’m just now designing myself another fireplace ... And I decided that ... well, to hell with it ... I’ll make, as is now customary, a “potbelly stove that considers itself to be a fireplace” with a hermetically sealed door and a blower, and I’ll forget it. ..))))
And she will behave like a stove))). That is, if the chimney is close to a small section, it will "conquer stronger", if it is a large one, the wood will burn faster ...
Here already the ratio of the volume of the furnace to the cross section of the chimney has thunder-a-a-hell tolerances, compared with a fireplace ...
Quote: Valery
Otherwise, he will fly away to the room!

As a rule, a fireplace has a straight pipe, the thrust is created in the same way by raising heated air. If you are interested, before you light wood in the fireplace, you first heated the pipe with a bundle of straw that is directly lit in the pipe. Well, it’s not the point, I asked the author about something else.
This is for fireplaces ... In stoves it is not so "pronounced" ...

No one restricts the access of oxygen to the firewood near the fireplace, and therefore it is necessary that "all the smoke that appears there when burning" could escape under its own power ... Otherwise, it will fly into the room!)))) .. At the stove to another. Air is limited by the blower. Accordingly, with increasing temperature, the flow rate increases ... The combustion process is accelerated by accelerating the reaction itself, and not "increasing in volume", like a fireplace ...
Frankly, I thought that the cross section of the chimney is in some way dependent on the volume of the furnace.
Author
Colleague, brick heat-intensive furnaces have several standard sections of the chimney, they are selected based on the design and power of the furnace. That is, we have in the input data a brick square (rectangular) opening. Practice shows that when the diameter of the chimney is “inscribed" or slightly larger than this square, the furnace works well - the smoothness of the metal pipe compensates for a slight reduction in cross-section. Yes, there’s such a moment - a round cross section of the chimney with the same materials and wall roughness, preferably in the aerodynamic sense - local turbulence is created in the corners of a rectangular pipe, they increase resistance to gas flow. Roughly speaking, in a rectangular pipe, the corners still do not work. And do not forget to insulate metal chimneys!
I have a question, how was the diameter of the pipe chosen? Let me explain, such a work is ahead, (I plan for July-August) and now I’m interested in it, so far from far away.

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