Planer Planer

In carpentry, you often need to brush off a board, but not everyone has a jointer. I can’t place any machine in my apartment workshop and not where. And you need to make an even bar and such a decision comes to mind.
Of the materials that can be bought in many construction stores, namely a pipe of 20 diameters, several mounts of the joker system, as well as floor laminate boards and of course the electric plane itself.

Why precisely from such details?

1. They are widespread
   
2. They can be quickly disassembled.
   
3. device it turned out easy, you can hang it on the wall or put somewhere
   
4. the pipe itself is straight and maintains its geometry well
   
5. laminate is smooth, slippery and durable
   
6. all these things can be bought cheaply
   
7. the machine has many adjustment screws
   
8. table length is limited only by workshop size
   

Of course this is not my invention, although I invented it myself, but unlike similar products made of their wood or welded with their metal, mine has custom geometry. Those. I can lower or raise every corner of the laminate by a fraction of a millimeter. The planer is removed from the device without destroying the latter, you just need to unscrew the 4 bolts and move the lift table, while the reverse operation does not require setting the table. It will also be 1-2 mm below the main table.

I thought for a long time how to make a mechanism for adjusting and changing the height of one table relative to another. Wedge-shaped and on movable "rails" as on industrial machines would greatly complicate the design. Then, without cast-iron beds or bearings, it would be difficult to avoid distortions. Therefore, I decided to apply the simple principle of 4 screws and nuts.

There were attempts to cut the thread into the pipe, as well as fix the nut inside the pipe. But in either case, I refused them. since there was no precise adjustment of the height of each angle.

Now, in order to change the removal thickness in one pass, you need to loosen the locking nuts and either turn the screw that tightens into the furniture nut, or if the bolt can already go beyond the table, turn the self-locking nut, whose role is to maintain the height between the pipe and the laminate. An M6 bolt with a 1 mm thread is very handy, since its full revolution will give us the usual size.



That the machine would not wobble on a workbench in a joker system there are legs with a possibility of adjustment in height. If the pipe bends under the weight of the boards. The legs can always be moved in any direction or add a couple more.


I need this machine for making furniture shields. And since for this you still need a thicknesser and a microchip cutter, it is not the only one of its kind. There is also a home-made thicknesser and no less interesting solution how to cut the spikes for splicing the bars. And home-made clamps (vines) This will probably be another story.

And now a video about how it works.