It is best suited for beds of medium wood (from 550 to 760 kg / m³) and high density - over 760 kg / m³. It wears out less, but is more difficult to process.
For the supporting frame, select boards or a bar made of dense wood - larch, birch. The legs can be made of bars, and the slats for the mattress are made of cheap pine boards 2 cm thick. Thin boards made of 0.5 cm spruce are suitable for decoration. Carefully check the material for
the subject of knots, bumps and roughness.
Check the curvature of the workpieces in a simple and effective way.
1. Lift it at one end to eye level.
2. The ribs going from the near to the far end, in the future should represent a straight line - their curvature will be noticeable immediately.
ATTENTION! Be sure to make a drawing. Consider the size of your mattress. They may not match the below. The interior space of the bed frame should be slightly larger. Allowed allowance within 30 mm.
A solid wood bed can be made without them by gluing fabric pads at the corners to protect the floor from scratches. For light single and “one and a half”, the optimum height is 35-40 cm - you can vacuum and mop the floor or build a drawer for storing clothes and clothes.
TIP! Try to strengthen the joints with the furniture corner where possible.
Entry level bed
Under a mattress measuring 80x190 or 90x200 cm, build a simple single bed with your own hands from wood. It is suitable for an adult or teenager. For manufacturing you will need:
• A bar for four legs with a section of 50x50mm;
• Board 25x245 mm for side walls and footboards, 25x100 mm - for the manufacture of overlapping battens, 25x200 mm - for the headboard wall;
• A beam with a section of 50x25mm for the manufacture of support beams for floor slats;
In addition to good lumber, get:
• Furniture corners or bed ties.
• Fixing screws 60 mm;
• Dowels with a length of 80 and a diameter of 8 mm;
• Joiner's glue;
• Stain or wood impregnation;
• Acrylic water-based varnish.
When assembling this and other bed options, use the tools:
• Drill and screwdriver;
• A small manual planer;
• Hand saw circular or furniture hacksaw;
• Grinding machine or grinding machine;
• Several clamps;
• Brushes for applying glue, varnish and stain;
• Sliding joiner square;
• Building level;
• Malka - device for quick marking of sawn corners;
• Miter box - a tool for quick and accurate sawing of workpieces at an angle of 45 and 90 °;
• Yardstick.
First assemble the headboard. Saw two legs up to 80 cm high from a bar with a section of 50x50 mm. Drill 4-6 holes with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 30 mm in their upper part from the inside. From the boards 25x200 mm, cut two workpieces 950 mm wide. From the ends, make holes up to 50 mm deep that match those that you made on the legs.
The foot is made of a board 25x240x950 mm and two pieces of timber with a height of 400 mm.
The backrests are fastened to the side walls with 25x250x1900 mm furniture corners or ties, aligned with the outer edge of the legs.
FOR YOUR INFORMATION! Screeds make it easy to disassemble furniture when moving.
Support beams of 25x50 mm and a length of 190-200 cm are installed along the lower edge of the right and left walls with the help of wood glue and clamps. After drying, before joining the clamps, the beams are additionally screwed with screws.
From boards 25x100 mm, make 12-14 transverse rails 95 cm long. From the left and right ends, drill through holes with a diameter of 3 mm at a distance of 12 mm from the edge. Lay them across the support beams at a distance of 35-50 mm and tighten the screws.
The final assembly of the bed.
IMPORTANT! All parts must be sanded before assembly. With a sliding angle, check the “straightness” of the corners between the side walls and the headboards. At the construction level, control the horizontal arrangement of the frame structural elements.
Grind the rough surface. From the outer ribs of the backs and other parts to prevent chipping of the tree and improve the appearance, you can remove the bevel. To increase the service life, treat the wood with a stain and dry it. Cover with acrylic varnish.
FOR YOUR INFORMATION! So that the ends of the legs do not scratch the floor when moving, you can glue felt pads to them.
One and a half bed
There are differences in the design of the backs, and its longitudinal axis is reinforced with a jumper with a leg, which prevents sagging of the mattress.
The head of the lorry consists of a wall and two legs. Make a wall from 2-3 boards with a length of 1400 mm and a thickness of 25 mm, reaching the desired height (30-40 cm). The legs are made of timber 50x50x800 mm. The fastening of the elements of the walls and legs is done with 8x80 mm dowels, joiner glue and is reinforced with long self-tapping screws from 65 mm.
The lateral sides of the bed-one and a half should be located on the same level with the lower boards of the backs and have the same height. Change the design of the headboards for a change. The middle wall board can be replaced with short vertical inserts from the same boards fastened with tongues.
To do this, using a special tool - small ones - make markings with a pencil. The fry consists of a handle pressed to the edge of the board, a narrow metal plate having a longitudinal cut, and a fixing bolt that allows you to fix the plate by setting the desired angle and length of the cut. In such a simple way, you quickly draw symmetrical cut lines on the left and right ends. To prevent the hacksaw from moving off the line, press the wooden guide bar along the markings with clamps.
How to make a double bed from wood
Two adults is a serious weight, which requires a more thorough approach in the choice of material and method of assembly. Make a sleeping bed from solid wood.
You will need the following materials:
• A bar of 50x50 mm for legs and a bed frame, 3x3 cm - for support beams under the slats for the mattress;
• Boards 20x100 mm for transverse flooring under the mattress;
• Metal furniture corner with a shelf width of 50 mm;
• Self-tapping screws 40 and 65 mm long.
Of the tools you will need an electric jigsaw, equipped with a file with large and widely spread teeth.
First, we assemble a frame for a bed with internal dimensions of 210x170 cm and a height of at least 15-20 cm. To do this, glue three or four pieces of timber, tighten with clamps. After drying, we saw it in such a way as to obtain two blanks for the side walls 220 cm long and two for the backs - 180 cm each.
When assembling, use a lock-type connection.To do this, cut the notch on short workpieces using a jigsaw, removing a 5 cm length from the middle. On long workpieces on the side walls of the bed, leave a “spike”, sawing off 5 cm from the top and bottom.
Attach the longitudinal jumper with an additional support in the middle using a metal corner with a shelf width of 50 mm, aligning it with the bottom edge of the frame. In the corners, attach the legs of the timber up to 40 cm high. Fasten with glue and screws.
For greater reliability, make the legs of the bed from a thicker bar. To give them an elegant look, remove the chamfer from the inside at an angle of 45 ° using a miter box. Do not overdo it - the area of the support should be sufficient to withstand heavy weight. When installing the legs, use long bolts with heads in countersunk with washers and wood glue.
Glue the beams from the timber 3x3x310 cm along the long side walls.
170 cm long slats are made of boards 20x100 mm. They are laid and fixed across the lintels and longitudinal support beams with an interval of 3 cm.
IMPORTANT! To prevent the rails from creaking, make them shorter than the internal width of the frame by 1 cm.
After assembly is complete, carefully treat the surface with a grinder or drill with a special nozzle using medium- and fine-grained sandpaper. Cover with stain, and after drying - with several layers of water-based acrylic varnish.
For a double bed, you can make a wall headboard of 2-3 boards with a length of 25x100x1800 mm and 10-12 boards of 25x100x450 mm. The first row that will be in contact with the back will go short boards. On the wrong side, it is necessary to equip hidden fasteners. At the appropriate places on the head of the head, screw metal plates with screws, the free lower edge of which will be inserted when hanging in the grooves of the tires.
If you do not like the hard headboard, assemble it with upholstery from the following layers:
• chipboard or plywood 1 cm;
• Foam rubber from 3 cm;
• Batting;
• Upholstery fabric with an interesting pattern;
Saw the base of 45x180 cm from a piece of plywood or chipboard.
From expanded polystyrene or foam rubber, cut a workpiece of the same size and shape. Attach it to the chipboard and make some symmetrical holes for the decorative buttons. Measure and cut the batting and upholstery fabric according to the shape of the workpiece with an allowance equal to the sum of the thicknesses of all the workpieces, multiplied by two.
Use glue or a special spray to stick foam rubber to the base. Gently spread the batting on the floor. Lay a blank of chipboard on it.
Bend the edges that are starting, starting from the bottom, and beat with a furniture stapler to the chipboard.
Repeat this upholstery operation. To prevent the fabric from wrinkling, iron it and tighten it properly using clamps screwed to the middle of the workpiece.
IMPORTANT! Do not save on staple brackets. Nobody will see them anyway.
Finally, sew on the sofa buttons. From the seamy side of the headboard, pierce the upholstery with a large “boot” needle and drag a thick coarse thread, thread it into the eye of the button and pull it back through the same hole.
Mount the upholstered headboard on the wall using the tires for the wall cabinets.
