In this article, Jack, the author of YouTube channel "Jack Houweling" will talk about how he made the stand for the grinder.
A grinder is an indispensable thing in a workshop. It can be used for cutting, polishing or grouting materials and many other purposes. But there are some non-standard operations that this machine can perform. To do this, you need a special stand.
This wire stripping disc for the grinder perfectly removes rust and stains from various objects.
Here is a design that allows you to set the required height of the device to obtain the maximum polishing effect. Due to the weight of the grinder, the construction is firmly enough "sitting" on the base. In this article, the author will tell readers step by step how to make such a simple device.
Materials
- sheet plywood
- Steel clamp
- Wood screws
- stainless steel sheet
- Steel tubes
- Steel bars
- M8 bolt
- Stud M16, wing nut, washers, nuts
- spring
- Wooden blocks.
Instruments, used by the author.
- clamps
- Band-saw
- A circular saw
- Screwdriver
- Drilling machine
- Forstner drills
- Chisel
- Engraving machine
- Crosshead screwdriver
- Bulgarian
- Hammer, wrench
- Square
- Ruler, pencil.
Manufacturing process.
The first step is to make the base of the stand. Jack cut the workpiece with a circular saw.
For these purposes, the master did not have a sufficiently thick piece of plywood, so I had to glue two. As a result, the base is 1 inch thick.
Jack puts the plywood board on the back of the appliance and intends to fix it with a bolt that will enter the plywood at a certain angle. Using a miniature angle, the author fluently measures the angle and puts the plywood under the drilling machine taking into account this angle. To do this, he puts a small block under it.
It remains to remove a small segment of plywood, and it turns out a good back support.
Further, Jack makes two crossbars from these two maple blocks.
Two wooden blocks are glued and tightened with clamps.
Now the author drills two holes for a tube in them, which is part of the outer guide.
The author presses the guide block to the base.Then, using a hammer, he taps the Forstner drill through the previously made holes, so that as a result the drill leaves small marks on the base wood for the installation of guide rods.
Collects the moving part.
Next, Jack drills two small slots for a metal clamp.
Attracts the grinder with a clamp.
Cuts two tubes for guides.
Then sets the guide rods in the base. The tube fits very tightly to the walls of the holes. We have to expand them somewhat with an engraving machine.
Now you need a few holes for small screws to fix the tubes in the moving part.
To adjust the height of the grinder above the table, the author will apply a steel stud. With one end he will screw it into the base, with the other into the movable mount.
Drills holes at the base of the table, then knocks out a groove for the M16 nut with a chisel.
He hammer the nut, screw the stud into it.
Then he drove the rods into the tree with a hammer. The result is a very tight connection.
You see the mark for the threaded rod. To drill a hole under it, Jack uses a 1/4 inch drill, which is slightly larger than the diameter of the stud.
In a pile of scrap, the author finds a metal plate. He cuts it in shape, drills and countersinks holes for screws. It turns out a wonderful base for the table.
Here are the first tests. Under its own weight, the grinder is pressed against the workpiece.
Everything is very convenient, and most importantly - it's free hands!
Thanks Jack for the next device for the grinder!
Good luck to everyone, good mood and interesting ideas!