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Remaking DigiSpark into a printed circuit board in the shape of a heart for Valentine's Day



Like homemade a lot, but this one, assembled by the author of Instructables under the nickname NLC_Engineering, is distinguished by the use of components soldered from the DigiSpark board. The Attiny85 microcontroller removed from this board differs from the exact same one, but purchased separately, with a bootloader compatible with Arduino IDE It drives SK2812s addressable LEDs, similar to WS2812b, but less sensitive to overheating when soldering.

The developer is pretty cunning: he doesn’t attach the file with the picture of the printed circuit board, instead selling empty boards. Who doesn’t like that the board alone is much more expensive than all the components combined, they can assemble the device on a breadboard, guided by this scheme:



You can also restore the pattern of the front side of the board according to the drawing and photograph:




A reverse - only by photo:



If you decide not to disassemble DisiSpark, there are platforms on the back of the board that allow you to connect it in its entirety. Add then only the address LEDs will remain. You can do the same when assembling the device on a breadboard.

Having shown on the diagram two parallel stabilizers of different types, the developer had in mind only the presence on the board of seats for both one and the other type of microcircuit. Soldering is necessary, of course, only one of them. It is also possible to use a stabilizer in a classic case with leads, which can be placed on the heat sink and connected with wires.

The board is designed to supply power in four ways:

1. On site for unstabilized voltage from 7 to 30 V

2. On platforms for stabilized voltage - only 5 V

3. Via a USB cable, removed, for example, from a broken mouse and soldered to the designated areas

4. Through the Micro USB socket, soldered into the seat intended for it, is the most difficult way, since the pin pitch at this socket is small

When programming the board, you can use the third or fourth methods. Serving more than one meal at a time cannot be done.There is also no polarity reversal protection, so be careful.

First, the master solders all the other components except the address LEDs:



Then - the LEDs, using a hairdryer and moving on to the next LED as soon as the previous one has soldered:



He decided to power and program the board in the fourth way, so he soldered the Micro USB socket on the back of the board and connected it to the computer with the appropriate cord:



When programming a board, you need to think with your head. And not in the sense of being able to code well - this goes without saying, but in the sense of not turning on a lot of LEDs at once for great brightness. If you turn them all on to the maximum at the same time, the current consumption will be 2400 mA. Not every PSU can withstand this, and the board conductors can overheat. You must be especially careful if the board is powered by the first method, and a linear stabilizer is used. The power allocated to it depends not only on the current consumed, but also on the voltage drop - the difference between the input and output voltages.

As an example of the effects that can be obtained using this board, the developer offers three sketches:, and. For their work necessary. Having figured out how the programs work, you can compose your own with other effects.

The board saves all DigiSpark features. By activating unused lines, you can also make it musical, with switchable effects, etc.
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