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Samovar Boot


Greetings gentlemen the inhabitants of our site!
Today I have a story about a small souvenir that I made as a gift on March 8. I will show and tell you some secrets of working with plasticine models, making them molds of silicone sealant.

In each house there are such souvenirs trinkets. Someone they are standing in the room on the sideboard, trellazh, someone in the kitchen. In general, where. Someone bought as a souvenir of a trip to another city, someone just presented, and someone collection. They brighten up our life, revive the memories of the past. Well, or just make some kind of color.

Our family is no exception. There are two irons in the kitchen. One for children or puppet, so to speak, but the second antique souvenir. And also a puppet samovar, silt souvenir. I got it by accident, all broken, without a lid. There was no faucet plug, the handle was broken, all in lime. Looked closely - stainless steel. Well, I think if such a thing, it is necessary to restore. Spent not much time and the little thing played. He made a pen, faucet, picked up a suitable part and cut out the top cover from it. And, from the lid for canning, he made a tray for him. I soldered a pipe with a handle from a suitable copper tube. So he stood in our kitchen corner.
Samovar Boot

Once sitting at the table, I talked about him. The spouse also says - the samovar is good for everyone, but there is no boot for its kindling. Well, I bustled under and took note of it. Closer to March 8, I sat down at a PC and picked up several photos of the same boot.




And he set to work, having previously measured the diameter of the samovar pipe. That would not fly with the size of the bootleg. On a piece of organics I glued two pieces of toothpicks to make a frame. I prepared the tool (stacks) and looking at the pictures I began to sculpt.
An hour later, somewhere it turned out, such a boot.


The depth in the boot did not go very deep, so that there would be no problems with removing the mold after casting. Well, at the same time I adjusted the ears to the inside of the shaft.





Further, the most interesting in this process.
In order to remove the mold from the casting of the boot, it (the mold) must be soft and elastic. You can, of course, just make gypsum, but then it will be very difficult, and consist of several parts. What is not very convenient at work, all the more I need to cast only one cast, well, two for insurance.

And so we choose silicone sealant, best transparent. Such is sold in ordinary tubes (not to be confused with a tube). Transparent, so that it would be visible whether the shape was cut or not, and where to cut at all.

I, before coating the model from plasticine, coating it with glue of the type “Super-moment” or “Second” (which are cheaper, you need 3 grams) of one layer will be enough. It is desirable without surface gaps. This is done in order not to clean the mold from plasticine later, since the sealant decently softens the surface layer of the plasticine model. After the glue dries, also gently without gaps, apply one layer (about 1 mm) to the plasticine model.

We give the sealant to dry, it is better at least a day night. Thus, we apply several layers. I did three layers, but you can and more just the mold will be stronger and it will be easier to work with it.

Next, we make a gypsum substrate on one side, then on the other hand, we forget about the clips. It should be like this.

After removing the mold + master model (plasticine) we make an incision in the silicone mold to get the master model. It becomes a "zig" and preferably from a less watchable side. I did it from the side of the slope of the boot. The incision is made from the sole to the neck of the shaft. I remind you that a “zig” is made, the direction to the left is at an angle of about 45 degrees, then to the right, and so on until the end of the cut. This is done in order to increase the area of ​​the cut and so that the cut halves could between themselves occupy their original position (without displacement).

After the cut, we extract the master model. We clean from plasticine the inner surface of the injection mold, carefully and with a stick.
Then the mold is embedded in one of the substrates and the second is closed. In this case, the correct connection of the halves of the ridge is checked. The mold is ready for casting.

We breed gypsum, a little thinner than sour cream and pour into the mold. While tapping on the side of the substrate with something heavy. This is done so that the air bubbles come out of the cast gypsum. Or it’s better to put everything (mold) on the vibrator and vibrate.

After setting the gypsum, after about 30 - 40 minutes we disassemble everything and take out the casting.

If you are unable to remove all the air from the cast, there may be sinks on the cast. Do not despair, it is treated as follows. Pour a little gypsum onto a piece of paper, and soak the brush in water, take a little gypsum to the very tip and immediately place it in the sink. The first time it may not work out, do not scary work out and it will work out. After treatment, allow the cast to dry well. If you need somewhere to fix or remove the burr on the casting, it is better to do it right away, while it's wet.

After drying, the casting is peeled, primed and painted. After painting, I made scuffs on the folds, and then varnished. Paints and varnish acrylic.
For the base under the boot, took the part from another crafts in the form of a wooden floor. The manufacturing technology is the same.



In general, it turned out like this.



The gift was received with a bang.

I hope some of the subtleties in making a souvenir will be useful to someone.
See, criticize, advise, ask.
Regards, Starp.

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