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"Winter" water supply for a bath


I think that many of you, dear readers and the inhabitants of our sitethere is a bathhouse.
I have it too. Recently I built it myself. But I will tell about the construction of the bath later, and now I will share the experience of its operation in winter conditions.

Everyone who has a bath solves the problem of its water supply in their own way. Someone drags water in buckets, someone flasks, someone digs a 2 meter deep ditch and puts water pipes there, someone mounts an electric heating system for water pipes. On the Internet, I saw a photo of the “air” water supply, when the master simply hung the hose from the house to the bathhouse on a cable, and supplied water to it to fill the tanks in the bathhouse.

Personally, these methods do not suit me. I don’t have any health to carry water by hand, it’s problematic to hang up a water hose, my bath is 40 meters from the house, I’ll get too heavy a water hose, dig a two-meter trench 40 meters long - even young and healthy people don’t take it, pay electricity for heating I don’t feel like pipes either. And the cost of 40 meters of heating cable is too big for a simple villager.

Actually, I have a water supply in the bathhouse, even at the stage of its construction, I personally dug up a 40-meter trench and laid a metapole pipe there. An electric cable and other wires were laid in the same trench. But the depth of this trench is only two bayonet shovels, and for the winter this water supply is turned off and blown.

Therefore, to reliably provide my bath with water, I came up with the following system.
The main principle of action is taken from ... the railway. There, if you remember, when the train arrives at the station, special people connect the wagons to the water supply and fill the tanks with water, which is then used in washbasins and toilets.

To implement the plan I needed:

Metapol MP16 - 25 meters
Thermal insulation for a 20mm pipe - 10 pieces of 2 meters
Adapters plastic from irrigation systems - 2pcs.
Irrigation hose 20 meter - 2 pcs.
15 mm hose connector - 1 pc.
Fittings, tees, adapters MP16 - different, as needed
Spherical water tap 1 \ 2 inches - 4pcs.

On the water pipe in the house, I made a tee with a faucet and led through the foundation, at an angle, a metropolis pipe into the street. Just in case, I put this pipe in thermal insulation and wrapped it with electrical tape. At the end, I installed a square with a thread of 1 \ 2 inches.


In the bathhouse, even during construction, he laid a pipe from metapol, which slopes through the attic of the bathhouse and goes down to the corner.The other side of this pipe, also at an angle, is led directly to the water tanks. Just like in the house, I put this pipe in thermal insulation.

To connect the bath to the house, a regular 40 meter long irrigation hose is used, to which I connected plastic adapters with 1/2-inch thread from the irrigation systems from both ends.




At first he made metal fittings, but in severe frost, water quickly froze in them and his fingers froze very quickly too. Therefore, I switched to plastic. The hose on the adapter is loose, and slightly tightened with a wire clip so that the adapter can rotate freely. It turned out something like an American. Tightness in this case is not needed, even if the water leaks, it’s okay, it will not spill over the earth. The hose is wound on a special reel, which I made specifically for this case from scraps and waste of metapole tubes.


Along the way, I note that in the summer this hose lies in the garden and is used for watering the beds.
To get water, we connect the adapter to the pipe near the house, and unwind the coil on the way to the bathhouse.

There, at the bathhouse, we connect the second end of the hose to the bath pipe with a 1/2 inch tip and return home to open the tap.


After the tap is open, pressurized water from the water supply is pumped directly into the tanks that stand under my ceiling in the bathhouse. It fits about 300 liters. Using a simple dispenser, you can draw up to one hundred liters of water into the “hot” tanks from two gas cylinders, which are walled up directly in the sauna stove.




The tube on the left is pouring water into the "hot" tanks, the tube on top, from the attic is the set of water from the house through the hose, the tube to the right, and up - it supplies water to the "cold" tanks that are hidden in the steam room, under the shelf, the tube to the right, what goes into the wall is a summer water supply from the house.

When almost all the water has been collected, we go into the house and close the tap on the water supply. Then we go outside and disconnect the hose from the pipe.


The rest of the water is poured out. Next, go to the bath, and disconnect the hose from another bath tube. The rest of the water on one side pours onto the ground, and on the other hand - into the tanks. For insurance, I additionally blow this tube so that the water in it does not remain and does not freeze.

We return to the house and begin to reel the hose on the reel. Water also comes out of the hose itself, in the process of winding it. In any case, even if the water remains in the hose, I put it in storage for storage in the corridor, it is warm there.
The entire procedure for collecting water in the bath along with unwinding and winding the hose takes half an hour.

The minimum temperature at which I used this "plumbing" was -32 degrees. Of course, in such a cold, everything becomes faster, and the reel is unwound and reeled up in a run, otherwise the hose will freeze. So what, once you can run.

Given the fact that the winter in our area lasts for six months, and for these six months I’ve heated the bath about 24 times, it is much easier and cheaper for me to unwind and wind the hose so many times than to dig a 40-meter trench 2 meters deep. Can you imagine how much electricity it would take to heat 40 meters of water supply throughout the winter?

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12 comments
Guest Boris
very interesting but didn't understand anything
Albert
It is necessary to heat with electricity 1-2 m., Which rise to the bathhouse from the trench, and not 40 m. The trench is 50 m. And a depth of 1.5 m. It is digged by the tractor for 5t.r. and 2 hours. Surely, in some tap there will be water and it will burst. So you will change the cranes once a week. Another invention of the bicycle.
Guest Michael
It's Complicated. From the house we make a drain with a faucet, then we raise it to the ceiling, and along the sloping into the bath with wiring in hot and cold water. He took water, went into the house, cut off the supply, opened the drain and that's it ....
Guest Alexander
Pipe METALPLASTIC !!! )))
Supporter
24 times in half a year? Once a week it turns out. It is not enough. A day later we drown the bath, though we don’t have such a problem, the bath is in a complex with the house, only the entrance to it is from the garage. We also have heating in the bathhouse so that the hot water from the boiler does not freeze, naturally, therefore, there’s nothing left to do except get high
Guest Sergey
The middle strip, from minus 25 hose on the ground, the water freezes. The solution is the PND pipe from the house to the bathhouse on a slope on a cable with a drain of water after use.
Guest Vitaliy
no need to be wise, take hoses that expand 2 times (they are now full and the price is acceptable), connect the house to the tap and open the water. Hose in hand and walk to the bathhouse. Press the gun and pour water anywhere. He got out of the bathhouse and drained water from a hose, he was blown away and all the work.
I pump the compressor from the refrigerator without a receiver, near the well the pipe leaves the ground with a tap and fitting, in the system I create a slight overpressure with the tap closed and blow it several times. The compressor is located in the room at the other end of the pipe, I do not turn it off during the purge process, at the end I leave the valve open and go off. Slopes in the system do not matter. I connect the section from the well to the mentioned crane just before filling the tanks with a rubber hose without any clamps, at the end I clean it in the room. There are no problems. In extreme cases, with excess pressure, the hose may slip off the fitting.
Guest Igor
Yes uzhzh. Faster bucket drag. My version, a pipe comes out from the top point under the ceiling and, using a cable, slopes into the bathhouse. I got water, I closed the tap and everything is ready, I don’t need to reel anything, only in the house I need to install another air tap when you close the water, open it so that the glass water is completely from the pipe.
It is doubtful that with a receiver 3-4 liters it is possible to blow water from PND-20 well (and even depending on how long), the water on the walls will somehow remain, and then collect at the lowest point (if it does not have time to freeze on the walls). Or maybe you have a water pipe with a slope made like a sewer? The bottom point is in the basement of the house, the rest of the water flows down and does not freeze, the pipe is dry and "always ready" as a pioneer, then yes, the system will work.
Valentin Nikolaevich
If there is a compressor with a 3-4 liter receiver, then everything is simplified. The approach to the bath is done with a 1/2 ”PND pipe at a shallow depth of 20-40 cm. The house / bath water supply switch is in the house. A tee is installed on the bath branch with a tap to which a flexible water connection is connected. After water is pumped into the insulated barrel in the attic of the bathhouse, the system is immediately pumped by the purge gun through the free end of the eyeliner. I have been using this system for many years in any frost.
Nikolay Vasilievich Sokolov
And what kind of pipe is this? What's new in plumbing?
The idea is no different from the summer, especially originality. Too much fuss with unwinding, winding hoses, draining residual water, dragging and dropping hoses, etc. If the author likes it - for God's sake, and so for the idea and implementation - two points !!!

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