The idea to make a warm water floor was a long time ago, but for its implementation there were not enough technological solutions. By the way, a warm water floor in a state apartment will not work. A big problem with LCDs, it’s true that there are heat meters, then it’s probably possible and the project is probably needed.
Warm water floor is of 2 types. The 1st concrete screed is laid, a plastic pipe in the form of a snake in any way and is poured with mortar on top, with the same screed, mortar or concrete is an excellent heat conductor and battery. Everything is perfect except for one - HEAVY.
2nd on a wooden base, lightweight, heat transfer from the pipe through aluminum plates (a very expensive offer and hard to find) today aluminum has been replaced with galvanized steel, but also not very cheap. After this, usually a layer or 2 layers of 12 mm GVL is laid and on it a finishing layer, a laminate or parquet or linoleum.
On the Internet 5-7 years ago, I found such an idea, instead of aluminum plates for heat removal, to use aluminum foil that women use to bake chicken in the oven. Brilliantly
When I saw, this is what I need. Only instead of chicken foil 0.05mm thin purchased foil for baths 0.1mm 10m2 520rub I have a kitchen 8m2. Folded in half and a little left. Foil filling is a little uneven on the turns of the foil.
so
1 layer on an old wooden floor was laid with 3 mm expanded polypropylene, on one side a silver layer of solid foil. Very similar to a laminate backing. Any type of vapor barrier is possible.
2 layer 30mm erudite polystyrene or polypropylene; it is denser than polystyrene. I cut it on the floor, painted on it with a felt-tip pen, future pipe lines used a template for 180mm radii cut from 5mm plywood. I used a 16mm metal-plastic pipe. Estimated it was necessary to pipe 26m long, intended 32m with a thread, I did not like the takeoff run from the bay 100m I laid as long as I entered.
He took off the marked sheets. He made polystyrene foam on the street for cutting a groove (there would be too much garbage in the house), at first he worked on scraps, including turns.
I cut it with a manual milling cutter, the milling cutter from the set is just a rectangle, and I didn’t have a milling cutter of 16 mm (equal to the diameter of the pipe), but I had a milling cutter of 14 mm, which is 2 mm narrower. It turned out that it is necessary, the pipe is hammered through a wooden mallet, in which the radius of the pipe is selected, into the groove is very tight. Itself does not go back, but on the corners it generally sits nicely tight.The conclusion of the groove is preferably to do the size of the groove at 2mm already. Cutting Styrofoam 8m2 only 15min. The broom shook off the garbage, but still a lot remained, I had to take out a vacuum cleaner and suck it out from the inside. The depth of the groove is 18mm. Expanded polystyrene 30mm itself remains 10mm, as it were, of the bearing floor, if it were not for greed in the loss of height it is better to take 40mm or even 50mm polystyrene.
He laid it down, gluing it back with each other and along the contour with foam from spray cans. For reliable fastening, I used 18 and 16 mm plastic brackets for mounting the electrical cable. 18mm turned out to be better pipe holds. At the same time, it allows her to move a little inside, compensating for thermal expansion. Fastened with these brackets for 1 pc at each turn. On 1 thread of 2 pipes it consumes 2 brackets, screwed with long 75mm screws into the old floor. From turn to turn, I laid a double layer of foil under the pipe. The polystyrene was driven into the pipe through the wooden block, in which there was a radius of the pipe, with a rubber mallet, it clogged tightly. Initially, I planned the entrance, and the output simply clings to the existing battery by making tees, according to the scheme in parallel. I did not expect any combs. True, I have a small footage of 8m2, on the Internet I read that 1 thread can be laid 10-12 m2. If more, you need to make combs, laying the next thread on 8m2, etc.
During the installation, I decided to connect the return line not from the battery, but then under my floor. There is a node nearby. I drilled the floor and sent the pipe to the general return line. It turned out a smooth descent due to the fact that my return flow smoothly went down.
I immediately planned to lay porcelain stoneware on top of the foil, I decided to save 1 layer of GVL on huge sheets of 600x1200mm. It was not there. The foil squeaks a lot when you walk on it, secondly the porcelain tile sways and it is impossible to stick it.
Instead of a GVL layer or 2-x, as recommended (2 is still good - I understood later), I put sheets of 6mm flat slate (I just had it) and first on a piece of paper I drew a diagram of how I would draw it through the slate with wood screws so that do not get into the pipe. Put slate, applied drilling points. To check, the thread was connected to hot water not to heating, but to hot water from a gas boiler and put the water in half flow to drain to check how the foil transfers heat.
AWESOME was delighted began to drill and pull the slate to the floor. Around the middle of the structure, the drill from the electric drill fell into the pipe. I drilled it, hot water rushed up a fountain. I shut it up, turned it off, was very upset, drew a diagram so as not to get caught, it was a general wrecking, some sort. He threw it all to the brink. Thought to connect on a breakdown, but read unreliably. He removed the slate, tore the pipe. I filled the pipe with foil again. The foil, of course, was a little hushed up, and it became not so beautiful as once. And again, under pressure in the pipe, I began to lay the slate back, my wife helped on a large sheet of polyethylene 1 to 1 to draw how the pipes go, then I transferred this drawing to the top so that I could see how the pipes go. (It turns out, almost the most difficult operation).
After I laid porcelain tiles on the slate, since I saved on the layers, I have a little slate movement, as if the polystyrene foam bends from the bottom. It would be 2 layers and overlapping, this would not work. I did not stick porcelain stoneware on cement glue, but on silicone transparent sealant. On 1 plate, 1, sealant tube. The sealant is soft, has the ability to move, and compensate for my inaccuracies. The thermal conductivity was not affected.
Glued 2-3 tiles per evening with a gap of 2-3mm between them. Then he covered the seams with cement mortar and wept, due to my slight stirring, the seams began to fall out on day 2, but not everywhere, but in the most running zone about 30% of the area. In the store I saw a suture colored rubber sealant joint filler. I will wait until it is finally visible, I will fill it with soft colored rubber (silicone). She turned off the battery under the window completely on the taps and connected the underfloor heating. “AWESOME” everyone at home likes it, checked at -15 on the street, and the cat chose a place on the feed itself and sleeps there.
Further, I deducted that the battery is still needed, no matter what the type of teardrops on the glass of the window. Instead of 6 ribs, I decided to rearrange 2 ribs from the corridor. Yes, I forgot to say that I had planned 2 threads of the floor. 1 main 32m everywhere and separately, having a bit of space, passes underfoot when you stand near the sink. 1 thread connected as a hot water towel works fine. While everyone at home, whoever is hot water, enjoys always warm underfoot. Moreover, you can disable, however, from the basement or connect it to the main underfloor heating, also in the basement. I plan to put this thread on a 3-way crane and switch it without going down to the basement, perhaps in the summer it is not needed, or maybe vice versa in the summer. Thought on it such a summer granite will chill in the hot season is good, but for comfort under the feet of the sink will be warm. At the same time, I check how it works, as I will do the same in the bathtub completely with porcelain stoneware and double parallel heating, both from heating and from hot water in the summer season + A towel (the warm part from hot water) will be additionally built into the seat and a part of the wall that can be supported.
Milling cutter, a piece of wood for hammering into polystyrene foam, a hammer
I left a gap between the foils for gluing porcelain stoneware - it turned out that HE DOES NOT NEED the foil to the maximum with an overlay on another layer. (ATTENTION ALUMINUM FOIL DOES NOT FRIEND WITH CEMENT MORTARS will dissolve).
I wanted so without a third layer the crate did not work right away.
I did so through slate (preferably two layers of GVL). Yes, the slate is tough and needs to be drilled with the reaming of hats under the sweat, moreover, it can then crack a little, as if to creak, and the GVL is softer and this will not happen.
Along the way, glued on the old sink carved, porcelain stoneware received the eternal surface of the sink. The truth is afraid of dropping a hammer or other heavy objects can crack. Such sinks or tables made 2 second in the hallway. USE
Paul 8m2 did 4 days off and 10 working days 2 hours a day after work. Without assistants.
Power is supplied to the floor parallel to the battery, the battery is reduced from 6 to 2 ribs (advises the Internet to supply heat to the window so that there is no condensation on the window) and an 8 mm diameter nozzle is installed. Everything works fine 2 winters normal flight.
In winter, pleasant sensations are when you stand or sit in socks or barefoot, legs are on the floor. In summer, the cool floor in the hot season is also nice and only a small strip of heat when washing dishes in the sink.
P.S. While the article was being written, a company appeared that sells a finished briquette for a warm floor. But at a price it is 4 ... 6 times more expensive.
Previously completed work BATH-PYRAMID