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Bringing Nickel-Cadmium Batteries Back to Life




Are you tired of nickel-cadmium batteries that refuse to charge and just die?

What do you do with them when they die?
Just throw them in the trash - what is harmful to the environment?
Or just take it for recycling?

Here is the best solution to bring your dead batteries back to life.


Warning:

For this homemade disassembling a device that works at 300V and can be dangerous if not handled correctly is necessary.

Step one: Why do nickel cadmium batteries die?




They do not "die" completely, the problem, according to the master, is in sulfur crystals.
Crystals form and begin to grow.

This is called:

- Battery recharge;
- Leaving the battery in a discharged state for a long time;
- The effect of battery memory;
- Exposure to high temperature;

After crystals begin to grow inside the battery, they ultimately touch both ends of the cell terminals. This shortens the battery and prevents it from recharging ...

But the good thing is that sulfur crystals can be easily destroyed if you supply a powerful pulse current through the battery ... This will evaporate the crystals, and the battery will again become new!

Step Two: What you need to restore the batteries ...





The master recommends the use of capacitors, since they give a powerful pulse discharge.
Other power sources, such as car batteries, are not a good option. Since they are continuously discharged, the wire may accidentally be welded to the battery terminal, and this can lead to overheating and explosion ...

The capacitance of the capacitor to be used should be around 100,000 uF 60V. Unfortunately, such a capacitor with extreme characteristics is too expensive ...

In this case, in order not to overpay for a large capacitor, the master will use the capacitor from the flash of the camera. Why? Because these capacitors are suitable for pulsed discharge, and most importantly, they are FREE. After all, everyone has an old film camera with a built-in flash. Nevertheless, this device is more dangerous ...

So, what will be required to implement this homemade product:

- Film camera;
- Discharged nickel-cadmium batteries;
- Wires;
- Battery holder for discharged nickel-cadmium batteries (You can use size AAA, AA, C or D, depending on which battery you want to restore. The master is going to use the holder for type AA batteries);
- A small switch (the master used the slide switch);
- High power switch (the master used a push button switch);

From the tools you will need:

- Soldering iron (you can avoid soldering by simply twisting the wires together);
- Tin;
- Rosin;
- Desoldering pump;
- Nippers;
- Tool for stripping wires;
- Flat screwdriver;
- pliers;

Step Three: Disassembling the Camera







This is a rather dangerous procedure. It is necessary to open the camera and pull out the electric circuit from the device, and it is necessary to discharge the capacitor.

(The capacitor in the chamber is a large cylinder that is an energy storage device. It is used for flash).

First, open the camera body using a screwdriver.
After you have removed the camera body, close the capacitor with a screwdriver with an insulated handle. Most likely you get a big and loud spark. After that, the capacitor will discharge ... (Use a screwdriver, which is not a pity, because a fully charged capacitor will leave a deep mark on the metal part of the screwdriver!)

Step Four: Remove the switch from the circuit and add a new one










After the camera circuit is removed from the device, you need to remove the overhead charge switch and add an external switch. Thus, we will have easier control over the circuit and less likely to get an electric shock.

Remove the top of the charge switch. It is not too difficult to remove.

Then solder the two wires on the open metal legs. And solder the “new” charge switch from the other end of the wires.

It is also advisable to flash the flash itself.

Step Five: Adding a Battery Holder and Switch






Then you need to solder the battery holder and the high power switch together with the black capacitor.

The black wire of the battery holder is negative. It must be soldered to the negative terminal of the capacitor. For this capacitor, the negative terminal is the one that is closest to the gray bar. A minus sign is drawn on this strip.

Then you need to solder a piece of wire to the other terminal of the capacitor.

Then solder the push button switch to the red wire of the battery holder and another wire. It will be a positive wire.

The battery holder that has just been added is where the low nickel-cadmium battery will be located.

Step Six: High Voltage Isolation




All that remains to be done is to isolate the entire route of the high voltage ... Simply come up with a housing for placement electronic components.

You can put electronic components in a nice box ...
The author did not find an affordable box for this homemade product. Therefore, he simply glued the tape to all the bare metal parts and glued the bottom of the camera outline.

Step seven: restore a dead battery




To bring a dead nickel-cadmium battery back to life, insert it into the “snap-on” battery holder and a good alkaline battery into the battery holder in the camera circuit.

Turn on the charge switch and wait until the neon / LED lights up. When it lights up, press the button and you will hear a loud pop. This is normal. This indicates that the battery has been killed and is now alive. To be sure that the sulfur crystals have indeed evaporated, discharge one more time on the nickel-cadmium battery ...

After charging the nickel-cadmium battery in this way, you should then charge it in the charger so that it works again.

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17 comments
Quote: Guest Vlad
so Russians do not say.
And Europeans don't say that either. This is some Russian-speaking translate so.))
Guest Vlad
Of course, the advice is stupid, but what do you want from European craftsmen. The article is translated. "... they end up touching both ends of the cellular terminals ...", the Russians don't say that.
You won’t get any explanations from Mr. warenic, he basically doesn’t respond to criticism. 00
In order to answer, you need to understand the topic! smile
From mr warenic you won’t get any explanations; he basically doesn’t respond to criticism. 00
Guest Vasily
The first stupid question - where did the sulfur come from in these batteries? What battery element?
The second stupid question - how can non-metal sulfur short-circuit "cell terminals"? In principle, it’s clear that Google translated cell terminals, cell conclusions, and the plagiarist author didn’t even understand what it was about. But the question of shorting non-metals remains.
Guest Guest
The easiest grandfather way - just add "water". Naturally not from the tap. The procedure can be performed repeatedly. They work almost like new for decades.
Guest Sergey Nikolaevich
It could theoretically work in some cases.
Almost absolutely unprofitable.
I think the author stupidly torn from another source - NO SULFUR in nickel-cadmium batteries. Article is useless, only to attract attention
Guest Sergey
Firs, Alexander - we are not talking about sulfation of plates from lead oxide powder. They can just be restored - a trilon to help you, a conversation about destruction - "needles" that are already through the separator rod. Here they just can bang. And about the meaning - I will say = awesome drill, screwdriver, battery. not get it. Soldered and NiMg and LiIon - do not withstand such modes
Guest Alexander
For several years I studied the restoration of batteries, though lead-acid, but the essence of this does not change, since where there is a chemical reaction, the laws are the same. Here sulfur, in lead - lead sulfate. Critical parameters are current and temperature. So, if you charge the battery with a current of 0.1 A, it will charge for a very long time, depending on the capacity. Roughly speaking, when charging a 7 Ah battery with a current of 2 A, it will accept (until fully charged), for example, 4 Ah, and will give back 1-2 Ah no more. And if you charge it with a current of 0.1 A, it will charge for several days, and the example will be 8-10 Ah, and it will return 5-7 A. Well, then, a few cycles and .... magic words :)
And so, of course, I agree, it’s 100 times cheaper to buy a new one than to make from 2 dead (they still have new negative platinum) batteries are eternal :), i.e., collapsible, repairable. https://youtu.be/WiS6zBCaQto
Guest Sergey
Well, I don’t know when I was engaged in model sports - there were only 2 species. Ni-Cd, with a maximum of 1200 mAh-running, and AgZn-powered equipment. NiCd was restored by a deep discharge, then pulses with a frantic current, about 10 Hz, for about 40 seconds. Then again a discharge, and charging by an asymmetry of 1/20. But AgZn - nothing at all - there the wire was dissolved and useless, although the active mass was intact. We remelted them only into rings and chains.
Mag
And what is a "cell terminal"? Complete nonsense. Can you write in Russian, shkolota?
- Leaving the battery in discharged condition for a long time
He also once tried to restore the batteries of a screwdriver and shoveled a lot of information about Ni-Cd.This is the only type of battery that is recommended to be kept discharged; moreover, it is advised to discharge the battery “to zero” before charging, explaining that it is the residual charge that causes the “memory effect” (the growth of cadmium domains that are proposed to be destroyed by high current pulses.), Domains also suggest destroying the batteries by freezing them with the subsequent processing of the latter with a mallet (this method was not tested). I tried, following the advice, to destroy these “domains” and didn’t get any tangible results with the help of a car battery and a welding inverter, so I replaced Ni-Cd with Ni-MH in a small “shurik” and bought a big one already with Li-ion.
Guest Victor
... Yes, I looked there and there are worse themes ... For those who want to stay without eyes ...
Guest Sergey
In fact, the idea works, I tested it myself, but there is one: it works in 50 percent of cases, secondly, we need to use a much more powerful impulse, and not one. Thirdly, crystals, yes, but by no means sulfur, it is not there at all as an element. Yes, they grow, but DECREASE CAPACITY AND INCREASE SELF-DISCHARGE. And they short-circuit when they are already sprouting right through - here, punch do not punch. I used a piece of the primary circuit from a completely killed PSU from a computer, but with live Conders. And this current - in a pulse of almost 50 A, no button can stand it. Touch CAREFULLY to the minus. It bangs and really great
Kotfey Kotofeevich
Aftar, walk on the spot, like patches to patch.
In addition to the dubious, as was indicated, expediency, also absurdity in the calculations.
First, it is declared that
The capacitance of the capacitor to be used must be around 100,000 μF 60V
And then a capacitor of 120 μF to 330 V. is used)))
From mr warenic I don’t even wait for explanations, I won’t answer anyway. ((
At fotik 600 mAh, is it the beginning of the 2000th thousandth chtoli? Now the price is 50-80 rubles per piece and then metal hydride.
This is a torment and a chance to get high voltage!
And further.
Use an alkaline battery to restore cadmium, seriously? If the batteries are a bunch of years old, then recycle them. The charge of half-bodies for a long time is not enough. Easier new batteries or alkaline batteries.

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