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An alternative to a plastic pump can control well pump. Homemade from the past

An alternative to a plastic pump can control well pump.Homemade from the past

1st step. Background.
In that arid summer, there was not enough water for irrigation. In the gardens, water was supplied on schedule and then not regularly. Well, of course, firms that could carry out drilling work and design a well intensified their work. Swatya, also realizing that the well is simply necessary, decided to drill. Moreover, the company provided its services on credit.

She asked me for advice. I told her - if there will be a well, then after me the arrangement of the well and the layout in the house and in the bathhouse, and of course in the garden. Of course, I did not intend to use the well pump control station sold in stores. I had my own decision, which I intended to use if that. Yes, and at a much lower cost.

2nd step. Well arrangement.
Well, as you already understood, Swatya has drilled. It is time for me to keep my promises. Naturally, it was first necessary to somehow equip the protruding pipe.

I didn’t want to get in touch with the brick, and it turned out that a whole booth had to be done. A little unprofitable for the garden, I decided to go to the market to see how much metal and corners to weld some kind of pencil case. The question rested on cutting a sheet at the place of purchase, so that I could bring a cut into the garden on a passenger car. Wandering around the market, I came across a ready-made metal-made cabinet, or rather a safe for storing hunting weapons. Bargained, bought. Stuck in the car, brought to the garden.

The bottom had to be cut out, and the head of the protruding casing was dug up a bit. He made a square pit, a little more than the size of the cabinet, with a depth of about 100 mm. He tried on a cabinet, putting it on the casing neck. The fitting showed that it needs to be trimmed. Which he did, since the pipe was plastic. Before trimming, he plugged the pipe with a rag so that the chips did not get into the pipe. I installed a cupboard and concreted everything. Outside, a kind of blind area turned out.

I also redid the insides a bit. On your own. Made two shelves for keys and wires.

The pump hangs on a rope, which is simply tied to a metal rod located across the pipe. Please do not think that the well is operated in such an open state. The hostess opened the neck at my request.

In the upper part (roof) of the cabinet, I cut openings for ½ ’water pipe fittings, 2 pieces. One on the idea - for the supply of electricity, the second - the supply of water to the house.

The third pipe brought to the right side of the cabinet. This is so to speak for gardening needs. While a hose is connected to it to supply water through the garden, into barrels and into the tank. It is supposed to make piping from the pipes throughout the site.

The internal piping in the cabinet looks like this.

Before the pipes exit to the outlet pipes, I installed ball valves (water control valves).

Water is supplied from the pump via a yellow hose. It is clearly visible in the photo. To the left of the wiring is an electric board on which the electrical components of the system are installed.

Installed on it:
- receiving block,
- switch "House - Tank",
- power switch, for an additional outlet,
- socket "Pump" for connecting the pump,
- An additional 220 volt outlet.

In order to direct water to where it is needed, it is enough to close one highway with the control valves and open the other. Then put the switch in the “Home” or “Tank” position. And plug the pump plug into the outlet labeled "pump" (the photo does not show the inscription, since the pump plug is turned on and closes the inscription). In the "Tank" position, it is necessary to control the filling of the tank with water and turn off the pump at the right time, or switch to the "Home" position. In the "Home" position, it is not necessary to control the flow of water into the house. It happens automatically; I’ll talk about this a bit later.

When water is supplied to the house, water rises to the upper wiring nipple and enters the tank on the second floor of the house along the highway. The water supply line to the house is a metal-plastic pipe passing through a specially welded flyover. In parallel with the water pipe, the same pipe goes into which an eclectic cable is placed to supply power to the pump and an additional outlet.

On the overpass, pipes are fixed in ordinary clips.

A 90-degree rotation takes place through a corner.


The upper inclination of the pipes is due to the bending of the pipes themselves.

Then the pipes, under the cornice, fall on the second floor of the house.




3rd step. The device of the tank and automation.
In the classical water supply scheme of a house from a well pump, the so-called well pump control station is used. Here is her outline.

It shows that the entire water supply system is constantly under pressure. In my opinion, this is not very convenient, especially in a garden house.

I implemented a simpler system, and of course a cheaper one. Now I will describe the operation of this system, and at the end of this section I will give a diagram.
Let's go back to our pipes "entered" under the roof of the house.
The pipe with electric wires enters the junction box.

And, a water pipe in a 25 liter tank, through the inlet pipe.


At the fracture of the tank is the second pipe. This is an overflow pipe. In the case of non-automatic operation, excess water through it and a pipe connected to it merges into a cornice on the roof of the house. Thus preventing flooding of the first floor.

The tank itself is mounted on a metal stand.

A drain pipe is inserted at the bottom of the tank. Together with the metal-plastic pipe connected to it, through the fitting, in fact, it makes up the home water distribution line.

The highway itself has a slight bias towards draining water (parsing water in the house). Water flows from the tank by gravity, so this point is important.

Let's go back to the tank. It has a fairly large neck with two plug-in and press-fit (twist) covers.


The hostess still covers her with a rag.

The whole secret of automation is that a sealed movable contact is mounted in the tank.


It was purchased by me in the Smart Pumps store, but in principle, you can make it homemade. It is a sealed float at the end of an electrical wire.

Inside the float are two contacts and a metal ball closing them.

Further, a mobile load is located on the electric wire, which controls the level of filling the tank with water and turning off the pump. In the position of the float to the bottom, as shown in the photo - the contact is closed, power is supplied to the pump.And if (in the cabinet near the well) the plug for connecting the pump is inserted into the “Pump” outlet. And, the switch is in the "Home" position and the tap is open, the pump will turn on and supply water to the tank.

As the tank is filled, the float floats up and almost at the overflow level, turns off the pump. The cable from the float fits into the junction box. And its contacts are included in the general electrical circuit of the power supply and pump control system.
The scheme that I promised is given below


4-step. Water distribution around the house.
At the end of the straight and inclined section, the pipe turns down and passes through the ceiling.

And gets into the kitchen. Next, the wiring of pipes goes under the ceiling to maintain that maximum pressure of water from the tank.



Below this tee, the pipe comes to the sink.

On the last tee, branch off to the left. The pipe through the wall goes into the bath.


Remember the article “Small spool, yes dear”? That's where the water comes from in the bathhouse.

Here she (the pipe) also has a tap to the cold water intake tap, located above the basin for basins.


And, just the crane on the last section of the highway. Which opens if necessary to fill the hot water tank on the stove.


Here is a system, such as an alternative to a well pump control station, I came up with and made into life.
I want to add that for the winter the system is freed from water by draining water from it. And in the spring begins to work again as the tank is full.

The system has proven to be operational for six years. No complaints.

That's it.
I hope that this article will be useful to many.

Watch, criticize, advise.
If you have questions or something, do not ask clearly.
Regards, Starp.

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21 a comment
"Next, the pipe routing goes under the ceiling to maintain that maximum pressure of water from the tank."
So the author wants to say that the pipe that goes from the tank to the tap at a right angle (first it is styled under the ceiling, and then turns towards the tap) will give a greater pressure than the same pipe only directly (and by the way shorter than the first) from the tank to the tap (under angle of 45 degrees)? Rather, on the contrary, in pipes at right angles there is a large length and correspondingly greater hydraulic resistance than in pipes directly (at 45 degrees, it is shorter). The pressure depends on the height of the water level (tank), hydraulic resistance (relative section and length of pipes), but not exactly on how that pipe wriggles approaching the tap
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Even at the bottom of a puddle or dewdrop there will be excess pressure.

So for sure, if you approach this issue purely academically :).
So I thought and realized that you were right: at all points of the system below the upper level there will indeed be excess pressure. Even at the bottom of a puddle or dewdrop there will be excess pressure.
That's just about the ball and I wanted to clarify. From the technical documentation for some of these sensors it follows that the contacts close in the switch, which is driven by a rolling ball. To close currents of the order of 10 A with a ball is a matter of dubious reliability. A flip contact to make on the ball and technologically difficult.
In the author’s system, there is no excess pressure at the upper point, since the overflow pipe is directly connected to the atmosphere. And 0.5 atm is the pressure difference between the upper point in the attic and the lower point of the drawdown. Basically no no the differences between this system and a glass of water. Will you say that there is excess pressure in a glass of water?
Quote: Starpom
meaning no overpressure

The concept of positive overpressure is used when the absolute pressure exceeds atmospheric. Once you have 0.5 atm, then this is already overpressure, since there is a certain height of the water column.
So the question remains valid - what difference does it make to you, 0.5 atm or 2 atm in the system. It’s all the same overpressure. If it is only the reliability of the materials used, then the question is removed. If there is another reason, I would like to know her. Because personally, I am inclined to a normal pumping station, from which you can power a shower, for example.
Author
Some of you are not understanding, dear Nruter /
Ivan explained to you - it means the absence of excessive pressure.
Because 0.5 atm is not 2 atm. eg.
Author
Yes, no difficulty, Ivan.
I just don’t know exactly when I will be there.
And, the principle of work, I described. Inside there is a metal ball, you can even hear how it rolls. Well, the fact that he closes contacts there. As if for granted, otherwise the pump would not turn on.
Sincerely. Starpom.
If there is at least some difficulty, you can safely ignore this request.
I thought you remember or you still have the sensor passport.
Actually, I needed a model to clarify the principle of the sensor. But for practical use it does not matter which sensor.
Author
Good day, Ivan!
I can’t say so right away what’s behind the sensor. But, as soon as possible, I will answer you.
I just have to get there.
Regards, Starp.
Metal is Chinese, Korean and Belgian (this is at an increasing price-quality ratio), at least these three types are most often found in stores, and with which he worked. The Chinese is the cheapest and worst - it stretches like a rubber hose, the connections flow within six months, but it will do without pressure for cold water. Korean is the most acceptable in terms of price-quality ratio, I have been standing since 2003, when I just replaced the rusted pipes with it. After I redid the wiring twice — when I added the water heater and when I installed the meters (in order not to put an extra meter, I had to plug a separate pipe into the flush tank and pull the pipe from the bathroom), and for almost 15 years (after the alterations) there have been no problems. Fittings used Spanish, brass, with chrome plated, you can run into chemical casting, which just bursts with time, and looks beautiful and cannot be determined by touch, only when they break at the break, gray and grainy.
The Belgian metal is almost twice as expensive as the Korean, the “oak” bends badly, the connections are even worse, but I haven’t heard any complaints about it and, unlike the Belgian one, which turned a little yellow from time to time, looks like new (it's glossy).
Plastic pipes have a risk of bursting with time. I changed it several times. Over time, metal compounds begin to overgrow with crystals and again burst. But, I do not claim that everyone has it. After we began to pump water from an underground lake, the problems became much less. But I don’t care, I change them to PP.
"Criticizing - offer something else." Is polypropylene or HDPE better than metal? I myself prefer metal plastic to polypropylene because of the possibility of alterations and improvements (all connections can be disassembled and used again, unlike PP, which can only be cut and, at best, used through couplings), a longer length of the whole pipe (PP must be welded through couplings, from which the pipe becomes like a bamboo).The metal pipe can be bent with a certain radius, which can not be done with PP or HDPE. And finally, the metal simply looks prettier (IMHO).
The author talked about his version (working), not offering to blindly copy the design and use the specified materials.
I understand there, do you advertise the work of Asian diggers? xaxa
Where are the contact details? yahoo
It’s not necessary to read the article, the main thing is to note your stupidity?
Guest Fedor
Vot is a garden ......... Everything is made much simpler on the basis of pp and pnd pipes. Only Asians should be engaged in earthwork ..
Then I would like to hear from the author why
the water supply system is constantly under pressure. In my opinion, this is not very convenient
Oh sure. Apparently, I have already overheated xaxa
Quote: Nruter
Is the described system without pressure?
Apparently, the author had in mind that there is no excess pressure in the system: the water in the storage tank is at atmospheric pressure.
Question to the author: do you have a PDU-T601, PDU-P501 level sensor or some other?
1 atmosphere gives 9.8 m water. ;)
the entire water supply system is constantly under pressure. In my opinion, this is not very convenient

Is the described system without pressure?
The tank is raised to the height of the second floor, it is about 2.5 meters. Each meter gives a pressure of 1 atm. Given that the wiring is done by a half-inch pipe, the pressure in the sink tap will be less. There will remain about 1.5 atm.

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