» Electronics »Simple but powerful induction heater

Simple but powerful induction heater



Hi in this homemade I will show the process of creating a powerful but simple induction heater. This "inductor" is capable of heating the steel blade "to red" in a matter of seconds. With it, you can "heat" objects (tools, nails, screws), as well as melt various materials (tin, aluminum, etc.).

Here is the circuit to be assembled
Simple but powerful induction heater

Before you start reading the article, I recommend that you look at the assembly and testing process:

[media = https: //www.youtube.com/watch? v = cEaiQcxifcM]


We will need:
- 2 transistors of the brand IRF3205
- 2 zener diode 1.5ke12
- 2 diodes HER208
- 2 resistors at 10k and 220Ω
- Film capacitor at 400V 1mkF
- 2 ferrite rings (can be obtained from the old computer power supply)
- 2 insulating washers
- Radiator (for cooling transistors)
- A pair of screws (for fixing transistors in a radiator)
- Thermal grease
- 2 pieces of mica (for isolation of transistors from a radiator)
- Copper varnished wire with a section of 1.4 mm2 1 meter long
- The copper varnished wire with a section of 1.2 mm2 2 pieces of 1.5 meters
- Form on coil winding (I will use a 18650 battery)
- Battery for powering the circuit (8-20V)
- 2 small pieces of wire

And:
- Side cutters, knife, screwdriver, soldering iron.

Detailed manufacturing description:

Step 1: Winding the coil. The first step is to wind the 1.4mm wire2 on the "form" (once again I remind you that I will use a 18650 battery as the "form") to get a coil.


It should be something like this

Next, with a knife, remove the insulation from the coil

And tin wires

It should be something like this

Step 2: Winding the coil on ferrite rings. At this stage, it is necessary to wind the 1.2mm2 on ferrite rings.

To do this, take the ring and extend the wire into it.

And start winding

Please note that the turns should be tight. As a result, we get this.

Step 3: Securing and preparing transistors. First, prepare the thermal grease. I will use the very common KPT-8.

It is necessary to apply a thin layer of thermal grease over the entire area to 2 pieces of mica.

What would happen like that.

Then we glue the mica onto the radiator

We do the same with the transistor itself.

Carefully lean the transistor (between the mica) to the radiator.

And fasten it with a few screws.

We do the same with the second transistor.Thus, at this stage, there are already 2 transistors bolted to the radiator and ready for further soldering.

Step 4: Soldering components according to the scheme.
At this stage, the most interesting part begins. After its completion, a completely finished device will already turn out.
We will prepare 2 resistors for 220 ohms.

They need to be soldered to the left legs of the transistors.

And then connect the remaining ends to each other and tin.


Then you need to prepare the zener diodes.

They must be soldered between the left and right "legs" of the transistor. All this is done with 2 transistors.


What would happen like that.

Now you need to connect the "right" legs of the transistors (sources) with a jumper. In its role, the remainder of the varnished copper wire will serve.


Prepare 2 resistors per 10 kOhm

Then we connect the left leg of the transistor (gate) with the right leg (source) of a 10 kΩ resistor


We do the same with the second transistor. We get a semblance of this.

Now it is the turn of the diodes.

It is necessary to solder the anode of the diode (triangle icon) to the left leg of the transistor.

And the second end of the diode to the central leg to another transistor.

After doing the same, but with a different transistor.

Next, you need a coil, which was made in the first stage

Its ends must be soldered to the drains of transistors (central legs of transistors).

Next you need to solder the capacitor between the coil as in the photo.


One of the last stages and the connection of chokes. But first you need to prepare it, for this you remove the insulation and tin the ends.

Following this, on each side of the transistor it needs to be soldered to a common connection point with a 220 Ohm resistor and the place where the capacitor is soldered.



Now you can prepare 2 small pieces of wire (desired different colors) to power the entire circuit. One of the wires (yellow in my case) is soldered to the connection point of the resistors at 220 Ohms, plus will be connected here

and the black wire (minus) goes to the right foot (source) of one of the transistors.

Here is the final photo of an already fully working and assembled scheme.

Step 5: Connect and Verify.
To power the circuit, I will use a Li Po battery for quadrocopters.

But you can use any other (or even several) voltage from 8 V to 20 V.

Plus, we solder from the battery to the wire, which is connected with 220 Ohm resistors, in my case it is yellow. But I connect through an ammeter, which would also show the current consumed by the circuit. Of course you can not do this. The minus goes to another wire (black), I recommend soldering it through the button, but for demonstration I’ll just connect them when I need the circuit to work.

My current reached 15A. These values ​​may fluctuate depending on different conditions, just keep this in mind.

Thanks for attention. Good luck in your endeavors!
8.4
8.2
6.4

Add a comment

    • smilesmilesxaxaokdontknowyahoonea
      bossscratchfoolyesyes-yesaggressivesecret
      sorrydancedance2dance3pardonhelpdrinks
      stopfriendsgoodgoodgoodwhistleswoontongue
      smokeclappingcraydeclarederisivedon-t_mentiondownload
      heatirefullaugh1mdameetingmoskingnegative
      not_ipopcornpunishreadscarescaressearch
      tauntthank_youthisto_clueumnikacuteagree
      badbeeeblack_eyeblum3blushboastboredom
      censoredpleasantrysecret2threatenvictoryyusun_bespectacled
      shokrespektlolprevedwelcomekrutoyya_za
      ya_dobryihelperne_huliganne_othodifludbanclose
40 comments
Guest George
For those who write sharp comments, you yourself would better take it and take it off, do something similar and put it here, breathing teachers and only the language
Guest Vasya
The varnish on the coil was supposed to char from the five hundred degree gland located inside
Guest Vasya
What kind of heat transfer?
ozi
The topic with isolating little check-ins is not covered. It can be said specially omitted. Although here it is an important place in the radiator. It looks like steel washers. And there must be special types of PVC couplings that insulate both the head and body of the screws.
Guest Garik
Quote: serapion
As the saying goes, look, yes, see no. There are no mica and the transistors are screwed correctly through the insulating bushings. By the way, the thermal conductivity of the mica is very good.Only aluminum and tin are non-magnetic metals and will not heat up.

Metals will heat up. Because metals. Any. About insulating sleeves in the article a word. And not mica in the photo, but silicone thermal pads.
Of the fluoroplastic - excellent, but there are restrictions on the load and speed. In addition, the design should prevent fluoroplastic from flowing out under load.
Many confuse ftoroplast with caprolon. From caprolon, bearings are good ...
The disadvantage of fluoroplastic is high cold fluidity, in bearings designed for large radial they do not use the load, although its sliding characteristics are excellent. Again, in the bearings, most likely, a rare variety is used - fluoroplast-40.
Guest Yuri
Bearings were ground from PTFE, which carried a large load, but here you are afraid to push it with a bolt
It is a colleague! Silicone is. Moreover, they were invented in order to exclude heat-conducting paste from the installation and increase the manufacturability of the installation.
Guest Sergey
If you install transistors on separate radiators, then mica is not needed, the heat sink will be better. The power, apparently, is scanty - insufficient for practical use. For comparison: in a similar home-made workable installation of the 70s, 4 6P3S lamps were used in parallel (this is about 100 watts in the circuit). And it was suitable to melt zinc in a small crucible for demonstration purposes.
Quote: Guest Peter
Aluminum has more heat transfer than copper
I repeat the previous advice to you - study the materiel!
This is not a device for practical use, but a demonstration model, therefore - do not care, which is enough for a couple of minutes, the main thing is to manage to take a picture. )))
Quote: Guest Peter
you can’t sell a second plastic
Go to start learning the materiel! "Vtoroplast" ...))
Guest peter
You can’t sell a second-plastic with such a bolt, and its thermal conductivity is scanty.
Guest Peter
Aluminum has more heat transfer than copper.
Todes
In the photo, the battery is 1000mA / h, how long will it “work” at a load current of 15A?
Guest Peter
Cool, but he is low-power. Where can I buy a serious one to heat and forge metal of about 20 mm?
Guest Vita
There is a connection for iron. For aluminum is different. The main danger, including for people, is the coil with a high frequency, and while it is in this form, it affects everything that is nearby. For radiators, aluminum is cheaper (area matters).
Guest Sergey
Would you rather familiarize yourself with the name of the site Eugene Have you somewhere found in the name ala purchases on Ali?
Guest Sergey
Excuse me, are both ends of the coil connected to + 12V (via inductors)?
Quote: Guest Denis
mica has very poor thermal conductivity
For decades, it has been used for isolation between transistors and radiators.)) Of course, if you make a gasket a few millimeters thick, the result will be disastrous. And if the normal 0.05 mm or so, then everything will be fine. Yes, there are much better, but also much more expensive materials such as aluminum nitride, beryllium oxide and special ceramics, but in most cases the correct use of mica is justified.
And in the photographs, of course, not mica, but something silicone.
And the installation is certainly ugly. ((
The usual washer is not enough, it is also necessary to ensure that there is no contact in the gap between the screw and the inner surface of the hole in the transistor flange.
And not every insulator is suitable: fluoroplastic is an excellent insulator, but it is easy to push through with strong compression.
Yes, you cut this radiator in half and don’t worry, you’ve found something to dig into. Although with such a detailed description of the installation, of course, it was necessary to chew on insulation.
Only aluminum and tin are non-magnetic metals and will not heat up.

And what is the relationship between magnetization and thermal conductivity? Copper is also a non-magnetic material, and what does not heat up? Why then do aluminum radiators.
Author
ATTENTION! For those who wish to repeat! The transistor is screwed to the radiator through an insulating washer! Anything can serve in its role (which does not conduct current of course). The main thing is not to allow electrical contact between the transistor and the radiator!
p s I have no way to fix this in the subject.
Guest Vita
And the eddy currents in them?
transistors screwed correctly through insulating sleeves
What does this follow from? scratch
Guest Alex
The meaning is in mica, if the screw without an insulator touches the transistor case ???
serapion
As the saying goes, look, yes, see no. There are no mica and the transistors are screwed correctly through the insulating bushings. By the way, the thermal conductivity of the mica is very good. Only aluminum and tin are non-magnetic metals and will not heat up.
Guest Oleg
The horror of which collective farm is sloppy, Yes, and you don’t need mica either, you probably don’t know about electrical insulation — at least use circuit boards negative
Guest Vita
According to the transistor, we find out which electrode is connected to the housing, if it is not connected by a common wire (earth), according to the scheme, then it must be isolated, which is what the author does. The other side of the radiator is not visible. It could be cut into two parts. Mica is used to isolate spirals and conducts heat (in soldering irons). If the circuit is operational, it is not difficult to assemble it into a finished product (second stage of assembly).
Guest Denis
I looked at the datasheet on transistors ... People, this is empty! Stoke on the body. According to the pictures, they are shorted through the fixing screws.
And why do such "residents of our site" grumble ... why cheat ... no, the wrong country was called Honduras!
Guest Denis
and mica for what? Just in case: the mica has very poor thermal conductivity, and turning the screws, you all electrically connect the transistors to the radiator.
Guest Eugene
No need to reinvent the wheel. Given the components and labor costs, it is easier to buy on Ali, the price is from 1600 to 2500 rubles. With the possibility of water cooling of the circuit.
It is necessary to apply a thin layer of thermal grease over the entire area in 2 pieces mica
There is no mica in the photo, thermal grease will only worsen the heat transfer!
Next you need to solder the capacitor between the coil
The concept of "parallel connection" is unknown to us? With appropriate refinement, a very useful homemade product can be obtained. Try to power from a computer power supply. smile
Guest Alex
Cool, but it turned out some kind of collective farm soldering. That and so many elements solder on the legs of the transistor will not be able to every novice radio amateur ...

Would you like to make more accurate soldering instructions for those who are just starting to solder in the future?
J.k.
How many turns?
This is a mock-up demonstrating the principle of induction heating, not a finished device.
Well, a detailed description of the process of soldering to which foot of what, and not a word about the operation of the circuit itself, how the generator starts, what is the frequency of generation, what is finally the area of ​​the radiator. If this description is for beginners, then they will not hurt to know the principle of work. Well, for those who know, your assembly instructions will not cause anything but a smile.

We advise you to read:

Hand it for the smartphone ...