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Tool for precise and quick cutting of external threads

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This article will show you how to do it yourself to do device, which will allow you to accurately enough and also pretty quickly cut the external thread on the metal. Also, during the manufacturing process of this device, we will try the technology of anodizing aluminum and see what happens in the end.

The following instructions are taken from the YouTube channel "Good Master".
More recently, such a thread-cutting set was purchased in the Leroy Merlin store.

In it, the author liked the number of taps for each thread size, there is a first, second number, and the set is equipped with universal taps.

Also, the advantages of this set include the fact that the outer diameter of the thread of the mounted dies is the same.


Here we are going to make a universal holder for them today. But first, we have to cast a suitable size out of aluminum. As a material, the author decided to use castings that have already passed two melts, due to which they are sufficiently well cleaned, this will help to get rid of pores in the metal in a significant amount.

We will fill in the jar of vd-40 grease, it just fits perfectly in diameter. But first, the bank needs to be burned.

It is necessary to remove slag from the melt from above, while the master himself does not mix the melt. Now you can start pouring.

As a result, here we have such a blank:


At first glance, the quality is not bad, it turned out much better than the previous castings of the author. Of course we’ll take a closer look at the machine.

The master poured the remaining material into molds, so it will be much more convenient to reuse it.

We will try to grind the resulting workpiece with special plates on aluminum. According to the seller, viscous metal does not stick to them.

First you need to perform rough peeling of the workpiece. Her external dimensions are arbitrary, but the larger, the better, why understand later.


Then, for clarity and to give additional gloss, we will go over a plate with a diamond sharpening.

As you can see, small shells in the metal nevertheless have a place to be and are present on the workpiece, but if compared with previous versions, this casting turned out to be just perfect.


Further in the workpiece, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm.

Subsequently, we will bore the resulting hole up to 14mm, then a guide will be inserted into it.

And on the opposite side it is necessary to make a groove to the size of the die.



For better grip in the hand when threading a small diameter, it is necessary to knurl on the future tool. The author decided not to roll along the entire plane, so, in his opinion, it will be more beautiful.


Next, we proceed to the manufacture of the guide. It will be made of steel 45, this is the remainder of the old scrap from the times of the USSR.

On the one hand, the master made a shank for mounting the shaft in the cartridge.


It turned out just perfect, there is practically no beating.


Then proceed to the groove of the second side. Here it is necessary to remove the chamfers and grind a little.




Now we proceed to the processing of parts. The author decided to bury the shaft, and anodize the holder. Shaft processing is extremely simple. First you need to heat the part to a certain temperature, and then immerse the shaft in a glass with Coca-Cola.



But with anodizing, everything was not as simple as it seems at first glance. Especially for this, the author had to make a pair of lead electrodes. These electrodes were made of old fishing sinkers, since the author, unfortunately, did not have any other material for this task.


Then the part must be secured with aluminum wire.


We do the same with a pair of lead electrodes, we fix them with an aluminum wire in this way:

Further, all this resulting “sandwich” must be filled with the most ordinary electrolyte from the batteries.


It remains only to connect the wires and apply voltage.

You can see how the reaction started almost immediately, as a result of which an oxide layer was supposed to appear on the surface of the part.


The author uses the most ordinary green paint as a paint, as they say in numerous forums, this should work. Zelenka for this procedure will need quite a lot. In total, more than 120ml was used.


After an hour, it is necessary to immerse the part in the coloring solution. We are waiting for 20 minutes, let it boil.

Unfortunately, as a result, anodizing did not work out, but on the other hand, the shells on the metal turned out even more.


After such anodizing, the workpiece had to be processed again on a lathe. Well, if it didn’t work out in green, then let it shine.

That's all, the homemade product is completely ready. Let's check it in work. First, we fasten the shaft into the cartridge guide, we put on a holder on it and almost everything remains to screw in the gujon under the hexagon for fixing the die.


Also in the housing there are special holes for screwing in the handle.

Such a handle will be necessary with a sufficiently large effort. Now let's cut the thread on a brass bar for the test, but first you need to grind it to the desired diameter.

Thanks to knurling, this device can be held by hand. This is great for cutting small threads.


And if you use a special pen, the process can be automated by simply resting it in the tool holder.

As a result, here we have such a beauty:

Our new home-made device does its job perfectly. This can be done. Thank you for attention. See you soon!

Author's video:
4.1
6.1
5.6

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6 comments
Guest Ivanov
Are you serious with a lathe, what kind of stray do ??
the tailstock is not quite suitable for such purposes, it is better to make a mandrel for the tool holder.

And you can read more about the mandrel for the tool holder. In the case of the tailstock, the axis of the spindle centers and the tailstock are the same (except for the manufacture of the cone in the centers), so the lerka will be aimed exactly at the part. If you adapt for the tool holder, then it will have to “catch” the center (axis of rotation) of the part, and it will also have to complicate the design of the tool so that it moves in the wake of the cut thread.
The author wrote too much text, it was enough to give a drawing and a couple of paragraphs of the description. but the owner is the master;) Sometimes, I also want to talk about the idea and its implementation;)))
In this particular case, the adaptation takes place to be. And the case is - well, all the lehrs (dies) are of the same diameter, as the author of the article, which is very bad for large threads, they simply have nowhere to go to shavings! I once bought a Chinese one on M12, cutting it with my hands is good, but the machine clogs the die with chips in one or two turns and gaps appear in the cut thread. In general, the larger the die, the larger the exit holes for the chip and the thread will be better.
So the adapt must first be done with the expectation of different diameters of the dies or several devices for each specific one.
To insert into the cartridge, which in turn is fixed in the tailstock, is again not very good, and the tool overhang is excessive and accuracy may suffer. Now you can still find a lot of tools with a tapered shank on flea markets, so as not to sharpen the Morse cone yourself, and use it immediately, the reamers are ideal - they have a long guide that can be machined to the right size and a high-quality shank.

PS: but as for me the tailstock is not quite suitable for such purposes, it is better to make a mandrel for the tool holder.
Valery Gladkov
One single question - what is it for? If for production, then all this has long been invented and manufactured. If for home craftsmen, like the site itself, all this is simply not necessary!
To begin with, the article has a lot of unnecessary information, insignificant zeros. This is why the process of casting, anodizing and painting aluminum, which still failed, is described?
Now about the device itself. In the beginning I thought it was some kind of a nozzle for a drill or a screwdriver, but it turned out that this was for a lathe. Okay, I think, maybe I’ll find out a new one (or an improved old one), but no, the "good master" invented the "runner" bike. I don’t argue, a man moved his brains, he wanted to do the best ... but who can tell me how this product differs (for the better) from an ordinary lekoderzhatel, how is accuracy and speed of thread cutting achieved? By the fact that the fixture is guided to the part with the help of the tailstock quill? the leder holder can be pressed with the same pinole, PTUshniki turners are taught this in first-year practice. And the handle of the ler holder should not rely on the tool holder, but on the mandrel of the cutter clamped into it, so as not to abut the clamping screws. In general, in this form it is an absolutely useless craft.
The present device is made from a one-piece blank, at one end of which a nest is machined for the lehr, and at the other a Morse cone is made corresponding to the tailstock cone. The thread is cut as follows: the fixture inserted into the pin is brought to the part by moving the entire tailstock, and without fixing it, we simply bait the handle on the rotating part. The cut thread itself will drag the device along with the headstock.If you complicate the design a little, you can make sure that the thread is cut to a certain length, but usually the described device is enough.
For taps, the adaptation is done in the same way, the simplest is a washer in the size of the handle, with a square hole for the tap in the center.
Lastly, I want to add that these and other devices have been known for a very long time, probably long before I found out about them. It looks like "good masters", almost according to Griboedov
... Judgments draw from forgotten newspapers
Time Ochakova and the subjugation of the Crimea ...
. But often, these "masters" themselves do not understand what they are copying and how it should work.
Device for accurate and quick tapping
today we will make universal holder
Lekkoderzhatel f 30. 160 rub.
scratch

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