» Fixtures »A useful tool from an old clipper

Useful tool from an old clipper


Greetings to all, today we will look at how, without much effort, to make an excellent vibrating grinding machine out of use. Initially, I did not particularly like this idea because of the very low power of 8 watts. I climbed on the Internet, it turned out that people already do and use these, I decided to try it myself. The machine is perfect for fine grinding, the surface of the wood is very smooth and looks good. Moreover, I conducted an experiment with rough wood, which was not polished at all before. Of course, you can grind not only wood, but the machine will pull the paper bigger, I set the 400th. If you are interested in the project, I propose to study it in more detail!

Materials and tools that I used:

Material List:
- ;
- steel plate;
- small screws with nuts and screws;
- a small piece of the board;
- compact disc;
- sandpaper (from 240 and smaller).

Tool List:
- superglue (you can and without it);
- hot glue;
- soldering iron;
- drill or file;
- grinder or hacksaw;
- stationery knife;
- drill or drilling machine;
- a screwdriver.

Manufacturing process homemade:

Step one. Disassembly
We disassemble, we need a version with a coil inside, it is simple and reliable. You can redo the version with the motor, but there may be a more complex design. By the way, if desired, the coil can be rewound, the machine can be made more powerful.


First, he dismantled a very ancient razor “MIKMA-101”, issued by the USSR, it has two coils, and the moving “core” is simply made of steel. Turned on, this razor works very well, at least its power is 9 watts.

Further, I already disassembled it, with a power of 8 watts, it works 3 times better, and all because the “core” is magnetic, it is made of steel itself, but powerful magnets stand under it. I decided to use this machine. Some devices may have adjusting screws that can be used to adjust the stiffness of the springs, you can play around with this option.
I cut off the nose of the machine, removed everything superfluous, you can cope with the task with a hacksaw or a soldering iron, then we cut off the burrs with a clerical knife.



Step Two Lever arm
We make the lever on which the nozzle with sandpaper will be mounted. Found a suitable thickness of the steel plate, it seems, from some kind of relay. I slightly sharpened the part in shape, and then screwed it to the moving part of the machine using a screw and nut.The end of the lever simply rests on the plastic, so one screw was enough. I poured everything extra with superglue, including thread, so that this whole thing would not unwind from vibration.




Step Three Sanding nozzle
As a basis, where to glue sandpaper, I adapted a piece from the CD. In my opinion, the base must be bent, as a result, the machine can be pressed to the plane and it will not bounce. Also, all of our attachments should be as light as possible, otherwise the energy will go to unnecessary "mass swing".


It’s just that the disk doesn’t cut, you can try cutting it with a grinder, but I cut it off easily and simply with a soldering iron, and then cut off the plastic influx with a clerical knife.
To make the part, we use a protractor, mark the angles of 40 degrees to the right and left of the angle of 90 degrees, that is, 130 and 50 degrees, respectively. The paint from the disc is peeled off, and the disc can also be carefully sanded for good bonding.




Next, we need to set the plane at some distance from the machine body, so that it does not interfere with grinding. We cut out a piece of the board, grind it and fasten the part to the lever made earlier. If you use good long screws or self-tapping screws, you can not use glue, well, just in case, I poured everything with superglue.

In the end, it remains to connect all the parts together. I did not use screws, since the heads of the boot protrude above the surface and will interfere. I used pieces of matches as pins, I filled everything well with superglue twice. In principle, it holds very tight, you’ll rather break the disk than tear it off. The disc must first be scratched carefully for good bonding.

Step Four Test
Cut out a piece of sandpaper in the shape of the base and fasten it with hot glue. To remove the paper, you can pour boiling water over the base or blow with a hairdryer, the glue will immediately become soft. The first launch surprised me a little and even scared me. The vibrations turned out pretty strong, and the move was excellent. And all due to the fact that the attached structure due to the additional mass leads to the formation of a wider amplitude, well, it seems to me.

He began to grind, under load the amplitude decreases, and as you press, you can completely stop the vibration. In general, it polishes perfectly, as for such a fine sandpaper, the surface from rough turns into very smooth.




Of course, it is better to make the nozzle removable, you can make a lot of nozzles with different paper so that you do not have to glue it often. In general, I am satisfied with the homemade product, I spent time well, the tool turned out to be useful. You can safely make such a tool, if your machine is not weaker than mine! This concludes the story, good luck and creative inspiration, if you decide to repeat this. Do not forget to share your ideas and homemade things with us!
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27 comments
Guest Igor
it’s from the category “when the cat has nothing to do” ... As previously noted - only grind the toothpicks! Although if the machine cannot be really repaired, you can use it to make either an excellent vibrating massager or a vibratory smoothing machine for concrete - you can use a low-power vibrating component
Guest alexey
man spent a lot of time on what? she only needs to grind toothpicks, what's the point?
Sometimes it is only in the process of practical tests that one can find out what a particular idea is capable of, and the ways of its refinement are determined!
And the point is just in grinding small parts, where an ordinary grinder will not come out or is too bulky. In general, it is for jewelry work, including polishing toothpicks.
Author
assembly will not take more than an hour
Guest alexey
man spent a lot of time on what? she only needs to grind toothpicks, what's the point?
Guest alexey
you have nothing to do? why all this?
What did you mean?
Congenial!
On the nozzle you need to glue Velcro and sandpaper to cut which with a pile from the back. It will be much easier to change.
In give! Shears a copper wire. At 24 watts, it's real. And that razor that I showed, I will include only tomorrow. I'm afraid I’ll wake a neighbor! xaxa
And by the way, thinking!)))) Try to fix the knife from the renovator ...)))
Ugh, damn ... And what for I have an "iron", if there is a renovator?)))) In general, it has become bad! )))).
Author
for corners, you need to cling to the knife so that the movements are not a "semicircle", but clearly reciprocating.
Author
that is such a tractor that you can make a renovator)))
And for about fifteen years I already have a clipper "Domotec Germani". New. Once upon a time in Cherkizovo bought in Moscow. Sheared badly. That is, she cut, but worse than the rotary German, once brought from Frankfurt. (If it weren’t, maybe they would have used it))). Here and fell down .. So it lies in the box. I looked now from boredom - 24 watts of power. Turned on - it’s impossible to hold the movable knife with your hand. Knives are not a pity - I tried to cut the copper wire.))). "Hair" shreds confidently. Slightly thicker (about 0.5 mm) did not take.)))) A braided ball screw, cut the wires individually! Powerful enough.
Can the grinding “iron” be bombed from it for access to the corners?))) (For the planes I have enough different cars) ... Only now ... The cross course is embarrassing. For the "ironing" is not really gut.
Author
Yes, almost like a mikma, adjustment is good, adjust the optimal amplitude. But if the core is not magnetic, its power will be half that of modern Chinese, with the same power and magnetic core.

Well, twice this is me, on the basis that the permanent magnet is repelled / attracted to the electromagnet twice as much as the piece of iron.
Well, you need to enable the touch.
Dmitriy, now, I found the remains of the Soviet era razor, like, (I haven’t found the cover with the inscription yet). What do you think is suitable to assemble a product similar to yours? Powerful thing, huh? I looked, there is an adjustment, but only one spring and the screw is completely fixed with paint.
Author
I disassembled the MIKMU 101, everything there is also “powerful” and it is 9 watts, and here it is 8. As a result, the anchor there barely rattles. And all by the fact that the anchor there is not magnetic, just a piece of iron. Now, if you insert a piece of neodymium magnet under the plate, it will work like a helicopter! Well, or check the anchor for magnetic
I have a half-dismantled Soviet electric shaver "Era" lying around, maybe I'm confusing it. I’m tearing the coils off of it, throwing out the rest. Now slowed down. It has two coils on a powerful core made of thick plates. A powerful anchor, 2 powerful springs on the sides, almost like dumbbells (I had such German ones). Imagine what kind of vibration you can get. I’ll ring tomorrow, if the windings are intact, I’ll try to turn it on. I will report the result.
And ... Here it is ... Then yes - a larger mass will cause a larger "crack".))))
Author
Ugh, you damn, not a trance, but a coil, an electromagnet. Yes, everything is correct, but I have never seen any emphasis anywhere. There are always two springs, right and left. Using the stiffness of the springs, the amplitude of the oscillations is regulated. If it hits the stops, it is usually already off scale, the springs are too soft, so the machine rattles a lot.A stiff spring is a short stroke, but with great strength, which is what you need to cut hair.
I did not make out cheap clippers. But, by analogy with magnetic vibromotors (for example, electric shavers), which consist of a stator and a "pendulum rotor". The stator, in turn, consists of two magnetic coils (on one, usually, U-shaped core), which create a magnetic field. Since the current is alternating, the polarity is constantly changing and the pendulum is attracted either one way or the other. Its amplitude is limited by rubber buffer stops on both sides ...

It is limited by springs and trance power

Question: why is there a spring?
Question No. 2: Why is there a transformer?

Or is there not such a motor right now?

P.S. And such a razor could be plugged into a wired radio outlet (God rest with him! The era has passed!)))) And then she spoke quietly.))) Put it under your pillow and, when you go to bed, listen to the radio! )))))))
Author
It is limited by springs and trance power
And there is that, his move is not limited by anything ??? How can he walk to different angles?
Author
Valera, the core itself goes to larger angles, with a lever and so it’s clear to everyone
Well, if the shoulder were weightless, there would be no such effect. As an alternative - to hang a heavier load on a short lever, the effect will be the same.

Will the lever stretch? ))))
Dmitry, you, apparently, again "broke away from the initial." Initially, we talked about amplitude!
Here, re-read:
And all due to the fact that the attached structure due to the additional mass leads to the formation of a wider amplitude,
Author
Well, if the shoulder were weightless, there would be no such effect. As an alternative - to hang a heavier load on a short lever, the effect will be the same.
Now, if there is an adjustment of the springs, then when the spring is weakened, the amplitude grows, although there is no "force" there. Here it is the same.

The screws are long, plus glue, which was not superfluous. I don’t know, while everything is holding well, not hanging out

In general, for greater traction, the shoulder needs to be made short, but as with me, it is quite enough, it is no longer necessary.
And all due to the fact that the attached structure due to the additional mass leads to the formation of a wider amplitude, well, it seems to me.

Due to the larger, compared to the original, lever arm.
Because of the mass, only the moment of force increases. Which inspires concern - the lever and cogs are rather flimsy. As if not "smashed" ... Less drive it "at idle" ...
And the toolkit for small works turned out excellent. Over time, indeed, it is possible to modify removable nozzles. And of different shapes - not all surfaces are polished. Sometimes you have to climb into the corners ...

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