» Knives and swords »Camping knife with your own hands. First experience

Do-it-yourself camping knife. First experience



Frankly, initially, when making a knife, I was not going to write and publish an article. There were two reasons for this choice: firstly, this is the first work in this direction, and secondly ... Secondly, that in the runet space a strange situation arose regarding knives, for some reason each counter cross considers himself a master in this matter , and under articles on knives there is always a darkness of angry reviews, even when the work is quite worthy. Although in general I understand the reason for this behavior. The knife is the basic subject of human survival as a species; it is already thousands of years old. Therefore, even in the era of home delivery of noodles, something remained of a hunter in a person, forcing him to express his position very specifically on this subject. But fear the wolves - do not go to the forest, so ...

I will start, as always, with the background. I have long wanted a good camping knife, but all the same, my hands didn’t reach, the toad came. And then one summer day, my friend Vladimir suggested to forge the knife yourself. The idea was picked up with enthusiasm and the very next day on hand was such a blank.



Some photos were taken on the phone and didn’t come out very well, because there was no camera at hand. But there are not many of them.

But that I ran ahead. The process began of course with a drawing. In principle, I already knew what I wanted, Finnish puukko. Searches on the Hanseatic League were not long in coming, and after a minute of buzzing the printer, I had a printout of the Scandinavian Tommy, a close knife with which I went to an impromptu blacksmith.




Who cares about the size of the knife - the step of the cage is 10 mm. In the manufacturing process, of course, he left the drawings a little, but not significantly, the blade is several millimeters longer, and the handle is about a centimeter shorter.

Unfortunately, I did not shoot the forging process, but somehow it was not at all before. But in general, this does not matter, since words cannot be explained, this is one of those things that, as they say, you will not try - you will not understand. Briefly - the blade is forged from an automobile spring, tempered in mining. Normalization carried out at home in the oven. The knife is forged by a wedge, that is, the arches are formed during forging. And you need to puff well)
After some time with sandpaper I got this from the workpiece.




He deliberately did not begin to remove all the pits from the forging. The pits are not deep, they can easily be cleaned of impurities, but at the same time give the knife a certain “primitive” look. This is of course a matter of taste, you may not agree with this, your right.And yes, I know that processing is usually done before hardening. The point is that Vladimir, comrade, does not process his knives after hardening at all (except for sharpening, of course). When quenched in oil on a knife, natural burnishing is obtained, which it leaves to protect against corrosion. But I did not like this appearance and I decided to polish it at least more or less. I decided to make the handle out of birch bark. In general, according to the "classic", the handles for such knives are made of Karelian birch burl, but I went the way of cheapness and accessibility. Looking ahead, I’ll say that birch bark is a great material for these purposes. It is available in our regions (if you know Russian then 99% say that birch trees grow), it is easy to process, the finished handle is very pleasant to the touch and well preserved. In general, a package was drawn from birch bark, I lost a photo of the finished package somewhere, I borrowed it on the Internet, they are no different.




The only thing I did not cut out such holes. I just pierced them with a notch in the middle, although then they were flooded with epoxy anyway. The bag is glued together with a simple device, which can be seen below when the bag was mounted on the workpiece. A drill in the package selected a channel for the shank and all this is tried on the workpiece.




There are nuances. The forums advise you to pack packages in different ways, from cooking and bonding in a natural way to gluing with epoxy resins. I tried this and that. After cooking, the bag was very strong (as can be seen on the already glued epoxy bag), as a result, it was necessary to dry and collect on resin. Here, of course, I myself am to blame, but this did not affect the final result. What is important, when typing a package, you need to alternate the directions of the bark fibers with each layer. Now is the time to think about bolster and back. I made them from a piece of brass. The slot in the bolster is pierced with a thin disk using an engraving machine, and finalized with a file. Be careful when working with these discs, be sure to protect your eyes, they are not reinforced and fly apart at the slightest distortion. The slot does not need to be brought to a perfect fit on the blade. When the slot is almost ready - the bolster is stuffed onto the blade with a flattened tube, this allows you to achieve a good fit.




You need to solder a pair of pins on the back, for good fixation and putting it in place. I used pieces of a knitting needle, but you can take anything, a shank from a thin drill or even a nail. Steel is soldered well with hydrochloric acid fluxes, I used the ACTIV flux.






A small digression. In general, on such knives, the handle is installed through installation, that is, the shank passes through the entire handle and rivet on the back. I was afraid to do this, and not everything worked out exactly the first time, so I put the handle on an epoxy.


And the back and bolster, of course, are polished and polished, for this in the store of construction goods and auto sandpaper with a grain size of 40 to 2500 is bought. This sandpaper is also useful in the manufacture of the handle and scabbard for it, and in the future. As spacers, I used black and white thick cardboard, impregnated with cyanoacrylate glue. Mikarta somehow did not roll up) The bolster, spacers, and the main unit are assembled on epoxy resin, for which a simple fixture was made from improvised means (the package was also assembled for it).






In this case, the knife shank must be roughened with a file, a circle or something else. Also on the shank, you need to make a few notches with a hacksaw or, like me, a cutting wheel of an engraving machine. By the way, it is also necessary to do on the "tails" of the back. The assembly in the photo looks crooked, it is. This was corrected in the process of removing the handle. It is better to glue the backcloth separately after the main gluing, it is convenient to do this with a "five-minute" epoxy.


The assembled workpiece is sent under the emery wheel to display the main contours. To do this, I used the nozzle on the drill, pressing the drill against the stool with one hand and processing the future handle with the other. I don’t have a normal emery, but even so, the initial forms are displayed in 20-30 minutes. First, planes perpendicular to the blade are ground, defining the basic shape of the handle.





Further corners.



And then the pens ...



Pens and pens again




The handle is displayed with sandpaper with grit from 40-80 to ... Here's the nuance. Somewhere around 180 the handle is already quite neat and just perfectly sits in the hand. With such a roughness, birch bark simply digs into the hand. However, I wanted, firstly, to experiment, and secondly, a smoother texture. Well, I like the polished wood. True, do not polish birch bark, do not try, but more on that later. In general, I continued to grind to a grain size of 2500.





Surprisingly, even with such an almost polished birch bark it sits in a hand very nicely. Not so tenacious, but still the feeling, as if you were holding in your hand some kind of "soft" plastic, or rubber, but very "warm" to the touch. In general, I did not lose the choice of material, I am very pleased with the result. And it’s possible to ruin sandpaper, if anything.


A few words about the processing. After some number, I don’t remember which one, you will see for yourself that birch bark begins to become very dirty, from polishing itself. It becomes a gray, nondescript appearance. Do not be afraid of it. Grind. At the end of grinding, the handle is wiped with isopropyl alcohol, in two or three runs all the dirt comes off. Ask where to get it? Mosquitol for example, I used a deodorant for shoes. Whoever at least once smells the smell of isopropyl alcohol will not confuse. And it is used as a solvent in many aerosol products. Perhaps ordinary alcohol is possible, but I haven’t tried it. On the forums they write and warm water with soap is possible.


Actually, I decided to impregnate the finished hilt. I must say right away that birch bark almost does not take on impregnation, because it itself is full of various substances like tar, which give this material such durability (recall birch bark letters). But it takes a little, for the top layer, that would not get so dirty, enough. I heated the handle with a hairdryer and spread it with heated linseed oil. After that he melted a couple of church candles (wax ended) and spread on the hilt. Without waiting for it to solidify, he rubbed it with an old towel. Here, as I said, polishing is pointless, shine, as one famous place in a cat, you still will not achieve. On the Internet you can see photos of birchbark hilt that shine. This is how the handle looks if you wipe it with oil and take a picture, but if you wipe the oil with a rag - and it is again dull. Some bark bark even varnishes - but this, IMHO, is nonsense, since it kills the whole point of such a hilt.


Since the knife was marching for him, sheaths were made. Everything is pretty prosaic here. The knife is wrapped in a sheet of paper on which the outline is drawn. This contour is cut out and transferred to a piece of leather. I bought leather, a boot hook and a waxed thread from a shoemaker under the house, for all I gave about $ 4. Seen enough on the Internet of clips and stitched. The seam chose a "pigtail", I liked this one. He worked with skin for the second time in his life, it’s not bragging, it would be something, it’s a hint that even without experience, simple sheath is easy to do.




I said that sandpaper is still useful for the scabbard. So the skin section is processed exactly for her. After drawing an even contour in the same circle, and after rough sanding, the cut was painted over with a regular inkjet printer, saturated with cyanoacrylate and sanded with sandpaper up to 2500. Not professional, but a good result on the knee.


And one more small moment. This is, so to speak, the author's refinement. Not mine, Vladimir. When we forged the blade and gave it the original shape on the sharpener, I expressed the desire that there would be a section on the butt of the knife for them to cut sparks from the flint. Not that I use it all the time, but if it’s marching, it’s so marching) The idea, by the way, is not mine. I saw this option a long time ago on an Orlan-2 knife made by Kizlyar.




At the same time, the knife came in some trim levels with a scabbard, on which there was a small pocket, designed to store flint or small musat.



In general, Vladimir answered this idea with his own. On the butt of the knife, a bevel is made at a slight angle. Vladimir makes such a bevel on his camping knives, and he is designed to open tin cans, so as not to spoil the working edge of the knife. The bevel is sharpened quite sharply, not enough to cut itself, but it will carve sparks. The result was such a multi-refinement.


Well, in conclusion. Experience is a priceless thing. You can read a lot, but until you try it yourself, you won’t understand. I am glad for my experience, the result did not exceed my expectations, but also did not disappoint, I got what I wanted. Simple, good and working camping knife. Yes, and I really liked working on it. Now in the Wishlist is another knife, small, with a blade of 80-90 mm "mushroom picker". But I will already do it, most likely, from a piece of the Soviet frame saw.






That's all, thank you all for your attention and good luck in your work!
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31 a comment
Of course... ))))
Author
Quote: ino53
jacket potato sprat in uniform


This year the knuckle is baked. For a long time, of course, it took 3 hours, like a simple nonsense, but what the hell, delicious ...
Well .. mine then has something to eat.))) But, here, the requirements for aesthetics are clearly overstated ... Agree, few people would have noticed that some of the portioned plates are slightly smaller in diameter if they are of the same kind and color. .. And to her this is - "squalor" and "ashamed of people.")))).
So mine separately ... Just not far - three floors below ...))))
Valery
Not! Such squalor will not be on the table!
My mother loved elegant (according to her concepts) dishes, “German mother-of-pearl Roses”, if anyone else remembers, “Madonna” was considered too frivolous! Father said: "When you have nothing to eat, you make a table with a props!" smile
I have another extreme - the children live separately, so we with the old woman (God forbid read about the old woman, tear off everything that she thinks is unnecessary) sprats from a potato jar in uniforms are screwed up, they shared it with the cat - lepota!
The birch bark handle is also very happy, I really advise everyone to try it.

Yeah !!! My send me with this birch bark ....
And not because of the "ugly" ... But it is important for them to "in the same style." So all the knives we have are just a stainless steel with a black handle. They are, as it were, with any kitchen utensils organically look.)))
(It turns out that it’s super important !!! There were guests now, and we have white ceramic dishes. There weren’t enough portion plates for everyone. (I mean, there weren’t enough white!) My daughter brought her own - white, but ... for two see smaller in diameter !! And “not like that!” ... It’s good that I didn’t have time to express what was already ready: “Well! Almost the same, who will notice there!” ... Because the next second there was a general opinion with the fact that “No! There will be no such misery on the table! So that they later discuss that even the dishes are different !!” And we went to buy a second service of the same kind)))). Yes, while they found ....))))
(A stainless steel - this is because any other will rust if it is turned on in the dishwasher in the evening to wash and get it in the morning. And birch bark will not work either ...)))) Sha-sha! I don’t understand why to wash knives in dishwasher! It’s easy to simply wipe them with a wet rag! But, apparently, I don’t understand something, since cutting boards are also washed in the dishwasher.))))
Author
Here is a pancake, looked at the photo in more detail, it feels like rust is on the tip of a knife. This is actually a play of light, a reflection from beige wallpapers.

Author
Why stupid?


Another month passed, a month and a half. I also use it in the kitchen. Moreover, even barbarism allowed himself, he cut the shank on a glass plate on NG with this knife ... What can I say about sharpening. I sharpened it once when I did it. Then he ruled once more, before shaving. In general, he stops shaving pretty quickly, literally in a day. But then sharpening is held at the same level, and therefore ceased to edit.In general, he shows himself gorgeous, and this is not self-belief, I do not suffer from it, if it's bad - I say that it's bad. In the meantime, all is well. The birch bark handle is also very happy, I really advise everyone to try it. In the spring season I will go gather birch bark now. Minus, covered with a five-millimeter layer of rust ...
Sarcasm, if that.

Author
Regarding rust, care is needed, which is not difficult.


About rust. I’m most interested in how the knife behaves, that's why I’ve been using the knife in the kitchen, meat, vegetables, all in a row for a month from the moment of manufacture. Leaving - after work I wash with water and wipe with a towel. That is the same as with any kitchen utensils. A month later:

Selected a place specifically with small shells, shot macro + enlarged, the matrix allows. You see the result yourself.
Z.Y. More from the experience of observations for the month. The handle gets dirty anyway, but the sponge with dishwashing detergent removes all the dirt at a time. Less, but the comfort of birch bark is blocked. To polish bronze to shine, you yourself know what is useless, you should leave a fingerprint - tomorrow this print will be “printed” on this bronze really. And after a week it is already dull. But perhaps I just came across such an alloy, made from what was.
Guest Sergey
Regarding rust, care is needed, which is not difficult. Into the account, in vain, experience, as already noted. Then there are not many knives, especially home-made ones.

Caught my eye today. Why didn’t he survive for his 20 odd ... smile
Author
The blade steel will rust


The mora and opinel product line has carbon steel knives. And as the scientific cat correctly noted - if you do not care for the tool, then the ax will rust.

Actually, I went to the site as a guest, and at the top of the article there is an inscription, such as an article provided for informational purposes, because the manufacture of such a knife is criminally punishable under some article of the Criminal Code. I went into the profile - the inscription disappeared. So this knife is not XO. Minimum due to the lack of a guard, sub-finger stops or orthopedic handle. In fact - this is an ordinary kitchenette.
Now, if the author took the screw of the water valve (it is made of 40X13 alloy steel)
And why did you decide that all gate valve screws are made of just such steel? There are quite a few options, and only 40X13 is really suitable for knives, read the knife maker forums. In the same place, by the way, you will learn about spring steel knives. Well, as for corrosion, I already wrote that if you do not use the tool (any), it will also rust, whether it be an ax, a saw or a caliper.
Quote: Guest Nikolay

... will quickly go dull ...
Alloy steel 40X13 ...

Why stupid? There, somewhere 60C2A, well, 65G, these are decent steels.
How much work and everything is empty
Yes, not for nothing. The person gained experience.
Guest Nikolay
How much work and everything is empty. The steel of the blade will rust, the cutting properties are also not important (it will quickly become dull). If you use it somewhere in the garage.
Now, if the author took the screw of the water valve (it is made of 40X13 alloy steel), forged the blade from it, then this knife can also be used in the kitchen.
I completely agree!!!!
Moreover, I will say that for a couple of years now lies a strip of 40X13, from which I want to make a knife. But, there’s no time !!!
And I didn’t do those knives “for the soul” (you won’t do a dozen for a couple of hours “for the soul)))). Yes, and one too))), but purely from practical (even pragmatic))) motives. Not "hold in your hands," but "cut the lace.")))))
P.S. And there is also a large strip of useless "food" stainless steel. I cherish the thought that someday I will make a long-conceived set of fireplace accessories.According to the idea, it will be in the form of a narrow wire basket, in the role of the back wall of which will be an elongated stylized "royal shield, and all accessories (poker, scoop) will be polished" in the mirror ", have handles with crosshairs, like swords, and, for fun, there will also be a "real" sword. (Of course, with rounded "blades")))))
Well, I want to .... The ceiling is high there ... Fireplace ... Heavy curtains ....
Author
This, Valery, is an individual matter. When I do something, I do it so that it is then pleasant to hold in my hands. This is a unique feeling when you have done something yourself, and you don’t want to let it out of your hands for a couple of days. And the instrument itself, at the same time, is done for a long service.
For the kitchen (home) I never made knives. There, design is also important, and the appearance and color of the handle (it turns out!)))))))
But, "technical" has done a lot ...
I am a supporter of "not valuable things." Moreover, in everything. And the knives - from the same opera)))). He took a two-handed saw, cut ten pieces of it with a grinder. He gave form to the petal circle and imprisoned it (carefully, so as not to overheat, of course). I tried the holes. (not holes, because I did not drill, but punched)))). I cut strips of plywood, drilled it, pasted it onto the polystyrene divorced in the 646th. He slammed them with quick rivets. He gave the same petal shape and rounded it, after which he painted it with the same polystyrene.)))) He just dipped the handles.
All. One and a half hours of work, but he scattered the knives - both in the barn, and in the greenhouse, and under the canopy ... It’s necessary to cut the cord somewhere, or to cut a hundred — and the knife is at hand. Rusted - threw out, do not mind. There is another piece of the saw.))) And not only did it from the saw. From a stainless steel, from a thick trowel ... Yes, a lot of what ...
And I made a key for my women (Somewhere in the profile). "Shop" and home, which is not jam, and open with your hand (mine. Not them)))). But, with jam, it happens that I’m twisting it myself with a key.))) When the lid is glued - no bumps will help)))
Author
In 90% of cases, I solve the problem with a sharp, biting blow of a fist in the center of the lid. Only sideways, soft tissues. If it doesn’t help, I take the usual opener and slightly pry it up. I’m not a small guy, but after long-term storage and sometimes lids do not lend themselves to me.
Author
one knife twisted, on the other the color of the stinginess, a hole in the linoleum


there is such a thing xaxa
I don’t know which idiot invented the “good advice” to bend the antennae of the screw caps of the cans (in order to “let the air in”) with the tip of a knife. The handle of a teaspoon copes with the same success, but for some reason women always prefer to use a knife. I learned to disarm my own for a long time, but I often see the broken-off ends of knives as a guest.
Quote: Khatul Madan
the tip will break
.... If you do not use such a knife as a screwdriver and do not chop nails with it, then nothing will happen to the blade and the "nose" .....

Yeah, tell my wife, sitting, poor, in the kitchen, and suddenly - one knife twisted, on the other the color of discoloration, a hole in the linoleum, and she ... (whole)
Author
Oh, how, well, I'll keep it in mind, thanks. I do not understand steel at all.
This canvas is called a piece of iron. It is a piece of iron, a bit harder than steel-3, a file is taken freely, rather weak for a knife. On the contrary, I made a fur saw from a canvas for a planer; the shavings can be adjusted to the thickness of tissue paper.
Author
Somewhere I have a canvas (or how, I don’t know) from an old Soviet wooden plane, maybe from it? This steel, by logic, is imprisoned for this (a pun came out), planing.
the tip will break
Will not. I have two knives made from such a saw more than twenty years ago, large to cut meat and a small vegetable (peeling potatoes). If you don’t use such a knife as a screwdriver or chop nails with it, then nothing will happen to the blade and the “nose”.I kind of already told how once the “peddlers” selling all kinds of rubbish, and a set of knives, came to us one day. Demonstrating a set of knives, one of them cut a beer can (aluminum), saying “this is what it can even cut,” in response to which I took mine (from a fur saw) and cut a can of coffee (ours, tin) and then he sharpened the match with a knife like a toothpick and said, if you repeat the same with your knife, I will buy everything that you offer. Naturally, he refused. In general, it all depends on the angle of sharpening the cutting edge, you can sharpen it like a razor, but then it really will crumble.
Author
He has not yet taken up. I just know who to get a piece of saw from and I know what they make of it. With forging so far, that's why I think what is flat to take, so to speak, already finished)
Nice. good I had to make knives (a little), but I never saw a handle from birch bark, even live. And "... from a piece of the Soviet frame saw ..." - there the steel is P6M5, brittle, the tip will break, for a small knife the valve is better riveted (IMHO).

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