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Ford Focus 1 dashboard LED lights

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In the summer there was absolutely no time to do auto, and there are a lot of things ... So autumn has come, it was getting dark early, and half of the tidy does not shine on me ...


I had to do ...

I won’t write in detail how to remove the tidy, everything is as simple and clear as possible: 3 screws for the frame and 4-5 screws hold the tidy itself. Disconnect the block with wires and take out the tidy.

Important: you cannot turn the tidy upside down


On tidy there are three bulbs of the main backlight and a bunch of bulbs of illumination of the indicator indicators.
Main light bulbs: 12v3w base T7

I decided to immediately replace the lamps with LEDs, because incandescent lamps do not suit me in principle.
I did not want to buy ready-made products for certain reasons (not financial)).

On tidy such peculiar cartridges with paws into which bulbs are inserted. The paws are in contact with the nickels on the board. I did not want to change the board engineering much, so I decided to make adapters.

He took small pieces of foil fiberglass and made the "paths" as in the photo ↓


He brought out the contacts for the LED using the plates ↓


LEDs used 5040


Solder two pins to the upper heels to power the LEDs.


Next, insert the new lamps into the standard cartridges, removing the wires through the regular holes at the bottom of the cartridge.


Because In cars, the voltage jumps a lot, and the LEDs really do not like this, you need to use a step-down converter. I took on mikruha LM 2596.

[The LM2596S converter (module) is a step-down voltage regulator that has a wide input voltage range from 3.3V to 35V and an output voltage of 1.25V and 37V. This voltage converter can produce current up to 3A, operates at a frequency of 150 kHz and has a high efficiency of 90%. ]



These LEDs work normally from 3V, consuming about 0.25A all together, so on dc-dc we set the voltage to 3V, turning the screw of the potentiometer and using a multimeter.



I did not look for where the voltage comes from for the backlight, so I just soldered to the contacts of the central bulb.It would probably be more correct to solder to the three contacts of all three lamps to distribute the load, but the load there is so small that it left it that way.
I don’t know if it is the same everywhere, I personally had a positive contact at the bottom, negative at the top. But if someone decides to do something similar, be sure to check with a mult.




This DC-shnik very clearly gets into the standard plastic back panel.



We collect everything, put it in place, turn it on and ...
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36 comments
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At the same time, it is necessary for the young lady to say that Love is needed by the trad.
0
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I recently helped repair a car.
At the same time, we put light-emitting diodes and restrictive resistors. drinks
0
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......
OK! And about power - 20 mA * 11 V = sheer nonsense, for cars not power.
Author 0
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Thank you, I will know and apply for the future)
Always happy with new knowledge.
0
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510 is small, it is already at 22.2V almost 22mA. 560 gives exactly 20mA. In principle, if the mind, then the "right" resistor is enough. However, most will count as the Chinese, from 12, and then watch the blink. Therefore, unfortunately, the resistor is the lot of those few who understand.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
...... of course I agree.
......
I do not understand, explain.
Ah, got it ok I meant connecting St. diode with a resistor directly to the on-board network, without a driver.
By the way, about the resistor, let's calculate. We take a current (conditionally) of 20 mA, the voltage drop across the diode is about 3 V, then with a limiting resistor k51 with the engine turned off, 12.6 V. (12.6 V-3 V) / 0.51 k = about 18 mA. With the engine running (14.2 V-3 V) /0.51 k = too lazy to count. Those. within acceptable limits.
0
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Quote: ino53
That's right, the author chose a stable voltage generator, the answer to the 1st question. And you need a stable current generator

Well, if the goal is to use outdated speech turns, this especially applies to the "stable current generator", then yes, that's right. However, even the scientific literature uses the "stable current generator" only to describe the model (this is where the primer is actually), immediately clarifying that such a model is unattainable in practice and further uses the term current stabilizer. So I just used more accessible and modern words.
Quote: ino53
Implementation - a two-transistor stable current generator (as an example), preferably for each LED.

I do not agree with the stable current generator, since the so-called modern LED drivers are not these same generators, since they do not always support the stable current through the LEDs. However, I agree that a driver is needed for each LED, which again returns to my proposal.
Quote: ino53
Personally, I would put a resistor directly in the base (which I had to do already), which functions as a generator of a not very stable current.

But here we get either a loss of brightness, or a blinking after some time. Although in this case, the brightness, I think, can be neglected.
0
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Naturally, more expensive resistors will be. Rubles five little thing. Availability is the same as for dc-dc converters.
0
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...0. ..

Issue price, availability on sale?
The cost and availability of AMLT are known.
+3
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However, to be completely honest, in general, the author’s approach using a DC-DC converter (even with current control) was incorrect and again caused by a lack of knowledge. Lack of knowledge is not an insult and it is not shameful. I say this just in case, so that there would not be another srach, as if I had offended someone, it is extremely difficult to keep up with modern technologies and do not take criticism with hostility.So, modern industry produces cool things like LED drivers like NSI45 and NSI50. Specifically, these are devices in the SOD123 package, roughly 4 * 2 * 2 millimeters in size, even smaller than the SS34 I mentioned earlier, capable of limiting various currents. For example, the NSI45020 is rated at 20mA, and the NSI50350 is respectively at 350mA. Their nomenclature is large, and the ability to work in parallel makes it almost endless. I would do that.
0
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...... And then - the words from the primer.
That's right, the author chose a stable voltage generator, the answer to the 1st question. And you need a stable current generator, 2nd. Implementation - a two-transistor stable current generator (as an example), preferably for each LED. Personally, I would put a resistor directly in the base (which I had to do already), which functions as a generator of a not very stable current.
0
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The initial selection of the transmitter is incorrect. The author chose it to adjust the voltage. This is fundamentally wrong. The operation (brightness) of LEDs is regulated exclusively by current, and a parameter such as voltage does not exist for LEDs in part. The LED has a drop voltage, it is equal to the minimum required, but there is simply no maximum voltage. There are DC-DC converters with two or three tuning resistors, here they are able to regulate not only the voltage, but also the output current. And in this case, the current is limited only by the SS34 diode (it most likely will burn out faster than any), but this is too much current for the LEDs, so their failure is guaranteed.
+1
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Quote: 2Dem
... DC-DC is not selected correctly ....

What is written below is understandable, but here are the questions:
1. What is wrong?
2.How is it right?
3. Suggestions for correction.
0
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As you can understand, I looked here to slightly fumble the design and I will do it;) DC-DC is not selected correctly. For LEDs, voltage is not important, they only have a drop voltage, but it essentially does not play a role. The current is important for the LEDs, but this module cannot limit it. Therefore, they die relatively quickly.
+2
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And now I remembered later ... "Wheat". With a screw !!! Darling-ah !!!
P.S. Resistors and transistors! ))))
+1
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"Here he is kind, Andropov" for 4-70.

Yeah. And then came "Citizens, Let's Cancel the Reforms of Brezhnev, Andropov, Chernenko, If I Endure." ))))))))
+1
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Like the current Martini. Any vermouth contains wormwood! That is why he is a vermouth.
+3
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Quote: Korolev
Of course, you could take 4-12

Yes, rather, it was at 3-62, but it was almost not on sale, and stood at 4-12. For this reason, it was etched into memory.
You guys write at least a line about transistors and thyristors for search engine optimization articles. This is the main purpose of the comments ... :-)))
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
... the "genetic memory" of the people ....
“Strong White” 1p 27kop 19 degrees 7% sugar, “Bile Mitzne” Ukraine, 1.22, 19 by 3, “fruit and berry” (working cognac) -92 kopecks (!), “Sonsedar” with which “roofs can be painted. .. Student of the late 70s.
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So Valery asked almost the same.
I tell you, Admin erased nafig bazaar between 6 persons.
Who started this unpleasant dialogue will not say.
I will say only one thing. When the situation reached a critical mass, I and another famous person on the site tried to stop ...
And here is the admin ...
He is loyal, of course, to everyone, but not to the Authors and Journalists.
We have a special demand.
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Ivan_Pokhmelev
"Here he is kind, Andropov" for 4-70. ;)
He served abroad, there was no Internet yet, in the official media censored information, we were going on vacation with us, we went to the Moscow GUM - nobody was the people (then, as it turned out, we watched during working hours), I saw vodka and the whole room: “Look! Andropovka !!! ", mine:" Get out of here! Run! " Managed! xaxa
+2
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pogranec
-Did I miss something? Who is the one who scandalized?
But they didn’t manage to take part in the swara, I don’t even know what it was about, but it’s a pity ... scratch
+1
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brnjh1
Such a price in the early 70s was, in the late 70s we already took from 4-12 and above
Of course, you could take 4-12, but the official revaluation of vodka took place in August 1980, but for some time it was sold out at 3.62! drinks
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Yesterday there was a strong scandal on the site
. -Did I miss something? Who is the one who scandalized?
And Nikolai (Admin) warned us
-Nikolay is very loyal to the local audience. I would have blocked myself 5 times already -)))))))
+1
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Ivan_Pokhmelev Yes, you are a teetotaler, I'm sure of it.

Consider everything. Yesterday there was a strong scandal on the site. And Nikolai (Admin) warned us that the srach had cleaned up, but next time he would not forgive.

Are you offended?BThey stopped fucking each other, so now they started to deal with flood. ireful
+2
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where do people get these prices for a bottle of vodka
And this, my friend, is the "genetic memory" of the people.
drinks
xaxa
dance2
shok
+1
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Another "White Strong".
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
3-62 completely disappeared in 1981, in 1980, on the occasion of the OI, they did not dabble in prices too much, so the crankshaft could still be found, although 4-12, 4-42, 4-62 were more common. Beginning in 1981, went 5-30, and in 1983-1984 - "Here he is kind, Andropov" for 4-70. ;)
0
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Quote: Valery
And vermouth is not bad either

He gave it with medicine, it happened that you drink from the neck, and he asks again
+4
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777
"three axes.")))))
And Agdam was cool !!!!
Yes, and vermouth is also not bad ...

I stand on a half-stand, suck ink from a jar
And by the "White Vermouth" was taken
And my heart is pounding so I want to hangover
Ah, where are my rubles yesterday? !!!

(c) folklore of the 80s based on the works of Tolkunova.
+1
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Quote: Khatul Madan
at the same request

Maybe I'm wrong, andropovka was the cheapest 4-70 is 83-84 year.
+1
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Quote: Korolev
3 rub 62 cop.!

There was such a price in the early 70s, in the late 70s we took from 4-12 and above, but dabbled more in a vinyl, poor students - agdam, 72, 777, Vermouth (as I recall, already distorting) and so on. ..
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Aftar is a normal man, he doesn’t particularly chew, it is clear that he is friendly with electronics (mikruha slang). He showed us how to fix the backlight. And who did not understand, that ... nerd.
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Khatul Madan , I don’t understand .. I understand where people get these prices for a bottle of vodka from Wikipedia or what?

Or maybe they keep this empty bottle at home? xaxa xaxa xaxa
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Reply To quote A complaint
... back in 1980 ... with the price of a bottle of vodka 3 rubles. 62 cop.!
There was already no vodka at that price. I remembered by the fact that my brother was escorted to the army and my friend got married. “At the request of the workers” the prices were 4.12 and 4.62, and in the 81st, at the same requests, the prices were raised to 5.30 and 6.20.
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Reply To quote A complaint
One of my first ratsuh at the factory back in 1980! It was necessary to replace the burned indicator lights on the panel of imported equipment, without changing the design. An LED with a resistor was soldered into the base of the burned out bulb! They paid 40 rubles. (a whole advance, by the way!) at the price of a bottle of vodka 3 rubles. 62 cop.! good

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