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Energy-saving LED corn lamp

Energy-saving LED corn lamp

I have already done a lot of LED lamps based on energy saving. Some of them were assembled on the basis of ready-made blocks, others were completely self-made. All of them regularly work at home and in the country.

But then I came across a Chinese light bulb, which, in my opinion, burned out everything. LEDs did not ring, there was no power supply. In general, complete garbage. The light bulb was declared as 7-watt.

It was not difficult to disassemble it: the lamp shade on the latches, and the lamp base was simply unscrewed. The central wire was broken off.

And then I thought that if you apply LED plates of 30 LEDs 5630-0.5? Fortunately, I had a lot of such (I once bought on Ali). There were also enough LEDs (bought on Ali for a penny). The LEDs were with a thermal temperature of 4000 K.

The hardest part (for me) was to solder the central contact, because it was made of aluminum. I had to go to "CHIP and DIP" and buy a special flux and solder.

I decided that it would come in handy more than once, and I spent the money not in vain. (Indeed, soon I had to solder a few more lamps, where the central contact was made of aluminum).

Next, plastic bushings for electricity went into business. Having picked up the tube of the required diameter, I sawed it to size (with a drill with a cutting disc) and sawed the grooves at the corners of a square profile pipe 20x20 mm in aluminum (which was supposed to serve as a radiator). Then glued hot glue into the cartridge.

I took the driver ready PRD-420mА-3-4WS with the following characteristics: Uin = 90-260 VAC; Uout = 8-12 VDC; Iout = 420 mA; dimensions - 22.5x16x14 mm. With this driver, I can connect four plates of three LEDs in parallel. The current through each branch will flow 105 mA, which will not load the lamp (recall, the maximum current through these LEDs is 150 mA).

The size of the driver completely allowed it to fit inside the heat sink after clamping it in heat shrink.
Next, the iron went into business (inherited from my grandmother), which I used as a thermostat.


Soldered to a paste for screen printing.
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Having cut a plate multiple of the 3rd LEDs, I soldered the LEDs on them. Glued the plates on the Radial hot-melt adhesive.


The following thing turned out.

Then it’s a matter of technique to fix the radiator in the cartridge, solder all the wires and close the lamp.

The lamp turned out to be about 4 watts (according to calculations). But it shines very brightly, thanks to high-quality LEDs.

(Shot with reduced exposure)
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17 comments
Author
My flux and solder solders copper, and stainless steel, and bronze, and much more. Only a soldering iron needs at least 60 watts.
I recently bought myself a flux FIM, here it is

For soldering aluminum, beryllium bronze, stainless steel. Pleased with the results. For example, I fixed the glasses. Their bow broke from the most uncomfortable place. What kind of alloy or metal is unknown. I could not solder with rosin, or with solder fat, or with phosphoric acid. And with this flux I soldered effortlessly good xaxa
Author
The fact is that the central wire was simply crimped in aluminum. It broke off when the driver was pulled out. Therefore, I had to go for a special flux and solder (cadmium is present in the solder). And my multimeter is the most ordinary - it rings the lights at a time, and they light up slightly.
Author
Quote: Guest Alexander
So I understood ... why flux and solder for luminium? It seems that everything is soldered by the usual POS-61 and rosin. Aluminum is the substrate, the contacts are already tinned ... or did I miss ???
In principle, if the author calls the LEDs, then a lot of things become clear. Maybe I have a worthless tester? I usually check them with a probe. (DC source, resistor and 2 pins :)).
Guest Alexander
So I understood ... why flux and solder for luminium? It seems that everything is soldered by the usual POS-61 and rosin. Aluminum is the substrate, the contacts are already tinned ... or did I miss ???
In principle, if the author calls the LEDs, then a lot of things become clear. Maybe I have a worthless tester? I usually check them with a probe. (DC source, resistor and 2 pins :)).
Does anyone keep such statistics? It would be interesting to read.
I didn’t keep statistics, but I always said to everyone that only states save the "savings".)))) Once, in 2006, it seems, I bought twenty pieces. I remember that it was enough for two years!)))) Given their then value .... And what did they save me?)))))
I didn’t buy it anymore. Since then, however, there are already twenty diodes in the basement in a box. (I thought that de would do it ... I’ll reconsider ... I re-solder the diodes ... In short, I need to throw it out)))). But these for 10 years !!! And not for two ... And they really save ...
Recently I bought a LED light bulb, so it says in its instructions that the service life is supposedly 15,000 hours. While it’s shining. But I do not believe in these tales. About 15 years ago, probably, energy savers appeared on sale. So, of those that stood with me, only one shines continuously for almost 2 years !!!. And this is because it stands in the entrance hallway, where there are drafts (some kind of cooling) and it does not have a ceiling (again, cooling). All the rest died without having worked, and 3000 hours. To whom he bought such bulbs, he was not interested in how long they served. But a friend punches himself in the chest, claims that he signs a new bulb every fool and then, when it burns out, it calculates how many hours it has served. xaxa So, he claims that his energy-saving batteries last for 6,000 hours. And we live near him and we buy these bulbs of the same type in the same stores. Does anyone keep such statistics? It would be interesting to read.
A normal idea, I have drivers for lamps with dead diodes, there are LED strips for lamps, LDC 40 analogues, there, however, 4 in parallel, you have to cut tracks. The resulting construction will not fit into the native building, and, accordingly, the standard control in the face of the wife will not pass, but it will stand in the back rooms, as there are in datasheets - 10,000 hours ... I'll try to do smile
Author
The bulb was without a driver, I bought LEDs on ali about 0.9 rubles / pc (this was a very long time ago). The driver is somewhere around 46 rubles. So consider it.
Quote: Misha
... do not call, because they need about 12-18 volts

Quote: Guest Valery
... light up at a voltage of 3-3.5v.

Depends on how many sequentially connected n \ n structures in the case, if one - then falling e.g. 3 volts with something, if, as in the photo, two are visible, then how much is visible (this is much less than the nominal value at current).

Quote: maxi.mus
.... for all 7? Or for one 12-18 V? ..... Enlighten what kind of brand or give a link to the datasheet

If there are only 7 cases, these are clearly not single-chip cases. Looking for datas - lazy, Saturday, and ... do I need it?
Guest Ivan
As a technical solution, it’s wonderful, as an achievement, it’s normal, it would be nice to have a cost estimate, the new LEDs do not fundamentally differ in terms of spectral qualities from previously burned ones. Only a thousand-year-old reliability can bribe, so as not to monthly carry a stepladder from the pantry if this is achievable. Thanks.
Author
Misha, do you mean - for all 7? Or for one 12-18 V? I do not know such LEDs. Enlighten what brand or give a link to the datasheet
Author
Valery, everything works! You saw in the photo!
Guest Valery
I’ll tell you an even greater secret, they light up at a voltage of 3-3.5v.
Misha
I’ll tell you one secret. LEDs in the light bulb do not ring, according to how they need about 12-18 volts
Author
Since 4 branches operate on currents of the order of 105 mA, LEDs are designed for currents of 150 mA - therefore, it is unlikely that they will burn out. The driver has all the protection: against short circuit, open circuit, etc.
Guest Valery
I did not see the resistances for balancing the currents on the branches.
Without resistance, it will burn quickly.

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