» Fixtures »Simple handrail for a brick oven

Simple handrail for a brick oven



Of course, heating with a wood stove has a number of disadvantages. These are low hygienic conditions associated with moving firewood into the room (inevitable garbage), heating them (the best results of the fire are obtained if the firewood is kept in the room for at least 2 hours), efforts to transport fuel. Specific requirements for a heated room - a house, should be built literally around the furnace, with a minimum of partitions preventing air circulation. This is especially important in northern areas with severe and long winters.

Nevertheless, there is no inexpensive economical alternative to stove heating in the forest zone. In addition, modern designs of heat-intensive brick furnaces have high heat engineering and performance indicators, long life, convenient configuration and provide predominant lower heating. This allows you to get comfortable conditions in winter with minimal resources. The stove, unlike boilers, is non-volatile (unreliable village electricity) and can be frozen for a while (long departures). Heat-sensitive wood (brick) stoves are often used for heating residential and utility rooms in rural areas and summer cottages of the forest zone.

Recently, there has been growing interest in renewable energy sources, ecological, nature-friendly way of life. Partly, this is a reaction, counteraction to the hectic and consumer urban culture, with its imposed values ​​that do not make an individual happy, and partly - latent awareness (hopefully) of the deplorable prospects of humanity at the same time. Wood as a fuel - fits perfectly into such a new model behavior. In some countries, interest in wood stove heating began to be maintained and stimulated at the state level. Therefore, it is worth looking for ways to improve the characteristics of furnaces and their convenience. This is relevant and promising.

Anyone, no matter how experienced the radio master knows, it’s not enough to assemble the necessary device, say, a measuring generator, and to achieve its satisfactory performance. For everyday use, you should equip the device with a convenient housing, connectors, an understandable front panel, scales, verniers, attenuators, etc. A similar situation is in the furnace business. Guests entering our house at the sight of heating stove often, most of all, they were touched by its convenient shelves. In some cases, even the built-in fireplace was less impressive. Moreover, if highly specialized knowledge and practice are needed for laying a furnace, then for many “things” ordinary, average technical and construction skills are quite enough.

Here, I brag of a simple stove-rail for drying wet mittens of hats and socks. Its design is very simple, standard metal products are used as blanks. The fastening on the furnace masonry is done in a manner similar to that for concrete walls, without the need for wiring any parts into the masonry of the furnace. The only thing is that welding was used, but you can try connecting the parts with screws or rivets.


What was needed for work.

A set of bench tools, a marking tool, a small angle grinder, goggles and headphones. Something to drill - a machine, drill or screwdriver. Small welding inverter with accessories. A good extension cord came in handy. LMB, brush, rags, dishes. Small diameter carbide drill or drill. Self-tapping screws for sheets (with flat heads).


So, let's get started.

Refinement has been wood stove in workshop. The number of small gizmos requiring periodic drying has increased, space on the brick edge of the slab has become scarce. Having chosen a convenient place on the side of the plate, I decided on the dimensions - the length of the rod. I chose the length of the suspension brackets so that the mounting holes at the edges fall into the middle of the bricks.

I picked up suitable blanks in the glands. It turned out - a rod and two racks from a 20x20mm square pipe, two brackets from pieces of a strip 30 mm wide.



Marked up the blanks, cut off with a thin abrasive disk angle grinder. A device like a pendulum saw would be appropriate here. For a more perpendicular cut of a square pipe, I marked each facet with a joiner square and pencil. Cut the same way. Each face in turn. For a long time, the roughness of the edge is somewhat reduced.



Dull the sharp edges of the workpieces on the sharpener. In the blanks of the brackets, I marked, screwed and drilled holes for self-tapping screws, drilled the holes with a large diameter drill.



I started assembling the bar. As the basis for the assembly, I used a not very valuable but even board of sufficient length. On it, you can do the assembly of the piece of iron at the tack, and thorough welding, do it on weight. Of course, a welding table and some specialized fixtures for welding, for example, magnetic corners.



I'm not a good welder - I only do this from time to time. For me, the convenient position of the parts to be welded is very important.

The practice of welding thin-walled parts showed that a convenient, sufficiently high-quality and safe method in the sense of burning through is welding from left to right with a strongly inclined, almost lying electrode. The electrodes are OK-46, clearly thin - ø2mm, the polarity is reversed. Welding current 45A. In the normal perpendicular position of the electrode, he made an arc and in a circular motion melted the “weld pool” at the beginning of the seam, then he laid the electrode almost horizontally and led the seam in small circular motions. In this case, the arc pressed mainly not on the thin heated wall of the pipe, but on the end face of the formed weld. The layer of electrode coating did not allow the tip of the electrode to touch the metal and stick at a low welding current. For the most part, when welding such a pipe, the seams were of satisfactory quality, and the holes had to be melted not very often.



Short racks are welded to the bracket strips. After cooling the welded parts, I assembled all the rod parts. I used the board again so that my brackets fit uniformly and fairly evenly against the smooth brickwork.



I attached a long crossbeam to the brickwork of the slab at the installation site, found suitable places for the brackets, such that the screws did not fall into the clay joints, struck on the pipe finely. I attached the welded brackets to the planed surface of the board as if it were brickwork. The distance between the brackets is according to the marks on the long pipe.Brackets aligned on and perpendicular to the edge of the board, fixed the glands in the position found. He put the pipe, made several tacks, tried on the assembled piece of iron to the wall of the furnace. Boiled the seams.



After cooling, the piece of iron knocked the remaining slag from the seams, cleaned several clumsy ones with a thick abrasive disk.

I painted a piece of iron. I used a silicone-organic heat-resistant enamel like varnish brand KO, black. 3 layers. Although the temperature at the place of screwing does not exceed 50 ° C (the firebox of the plate is lined with chamotte brick flat) and you can apply paint on metal of any type, for example, the same enamel PF-115. The deep black color, however, is a miracle that harmonizes well with the red color of clay bricks. Heat resistance, in general, is also logical and appropriate. All the same, the oven, not khukh-mukhra.



After waiting for complete drying, screwed the handrail into place. I used the usual technique for concrete surfaces - I checked a blind hole, inserted a dowel, and screwed a screw. He marked the places for the holes - put the handrail in place, aligned it with the nearest horizontal seams and along the edges of the furnace, put marks through the holes with a pencil. Holes drilled at low speeds. The same hammer drill works well in drilling mode. Red brick drilled with a standard drill. The slotting mode should not be used - the clay mortar is not so strong, and the brick is drilled satisfactorily.



As dowels, I used packing from segments of a non-thin aluminum wire - a core from an overhead line or a wire with a mono-core cleared of insulation. Aluminum with a zinc coating of self-tapping screws does not form a galvanic pair and works well in the proposed "high temperature" quality.




Conclusions.

As a result of the work done, it became more convenient to use the stove. The bar has a simple structure and mount. Welding of thin metal can be avoided by using a round smooth bar instead of a square pipe.

Babay Mazay, January 2020
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12 comments
Author
Valery,
Right! Today I woke up with the thought that there was nothing to argue about - along with the tile covered with clay described, we get good half-brick. Everything is according to the charter. The decline of an enterprise of this kind may also happen because of a loss of demand - such tiles do not represent great aesthetic value, but for facing them with a furnace, high qualification and a lot of fuss are needed. This is all right with beautiful, colorful ones. I met photos of modern stoves with copyright tiles. Very beautiful!

My grandmother also told me how a layer of broken glass was laid in the arch of her Russian stove. There was such a practice. Say, a simple and cheap way to increase the heat capacity. Although the glass is quite low - for example, glass blowers often make the pens of their small tool from a thick-walled glass tube so that their hands do not burn.

A fireplace in the conditions of frequent visits to a frozen house is just a panacea! Except of course the aesthetic side of things. Very nice thing.

Valery,
By the way, this is a gorgeous field of activity for ceramic masters - copyright tiles. You can’t make a lot of them, and small lots of beautiful tiles (and as having experience in furnace construction, I add - with accurate geometry) of tiles can even be in demand. Not here, so among the bourgeoisie overseas. Here you have the finished business plan. Need art skills, slip casting, painting, firing.
Babay_Mazay,
I have never been a stove-maker)))) All my experience is the construction of a single stove ... So I can argue something "not there"))))
The stove textbooks say that the optimal wall thickness of a kiln made of clay red brick is still half a brick.

So in our furnaces it turns out to be half a brick - a quarter of a brick, plus the thickness of the tile (it is filled with clay with field flints inside the clay (Bright blue stones are collected on the fields. In recent times, they were replaced with broken glass in order not to walk and not to collect) plus a layer of clay mortar between it and the brick. It’s just half a brick that turns out. It was such thickness and deeds that he considered optimal. But here, he said about the “Russian stoves”, which without tiles, that they have to make thicker walls in the channels. (Theorized Of course, he himself isn’t especially these live stoves))) We have everything - small tiled. And about the tile. The photo shows that inside the inscription "Navahrudak". This enterprise, most likely, existed from time immemorial, even before the arrival of the Russian Empire (Novogrudok was the first capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. This was later built by Vilna. (Present Vilnius). So, this tile could be done since the beginning of the 16th century go .... So all the local people got the impression that there are no other furnaces)))) ... I even found out - this plant is not here ... I did not suffer the collapse of the Union ... And, most likely - they just stopped do furnaces such))) That did not survive in a market economy ... Like many small brick factories, which There were a lot of rykhs in the vicinity, producing stove brick.
the temperature of the frozen log house reaches normal in a few days.

This is clear. That is why, houses are never left unheated for the winter. I remember how in childhood I went in the evenings to heat the house of one grandfather, who was put in the hospital. (There was such a practice - if you have to leave the house in winter, then they ask the neighbors to come and heat).
And that is why, in my country house I built a classic "English" fireplace, despite the fact that there is gas heating. Because no one is going to drown there constantly (antifreeze flooded and forgot))). But this is a summer residence! I can come for one day! And what do we have with central heating, or, especially, with a stove ??? We stoke the stoker all day, and only in the evening, when it’s already leaving, we get “moist heat” and still cold walls ... And the fireplace is a fire in the house !! Melt - and the heat near it! In addition, he perfectly warms up the floor in front of him, and contributes to enhanced ventilation. Great help for heating in drying the house (if you need to stay overnight). And, if not necessary, we have a well-warmed up one room and a "moderately warmed up" whole ground floor. Although at the same time the three-day "wood rations" of a conventional stove burn out, the effect is the same as it will give in three days))))
It is already in a heated house its practical use is not advisable.
Author
Valery,
The stove textbooks say that the optimal wall thickness of a kiln made of clay red brick is still half a brick. Heat passes through such a brick at about 1 cm / hour. In this case, a convenient furnace mode is obtained - in the morning and in the evening and a uniform temperature in the room. Provided, of course, that the size (thermal power) of the furnace is selected according to heat loss. The surface of such a furnace with a normal furnace, without overflow, does not heat above 60 degrees C. In this case, the dust in the room does not burn out on a hot surface and no carcinogens are released. For hygiene requirements, in rooms where people have been staying for a long time, this requirement (heating of surfaces not higher) must be observed. About this, including manufacturers of metal stoves, heaters are silent. A stove with thin walls does not work more economically - it stores less heat, it needs to be heated more often or there will be significant temperature changes. A thick-walled oven (half-brick) is not able to warm the house immediately, the temperature of the frozen log house reaches normal in a few days. This is so that without strong thermal shocks in the masonry. People without experience, often in such a situation they overheat the stove - they heat and drown, the stove is already cracking, but there is still no heat, and then even take out the saints - a bathhouse.
Although, probably, in some cases it is appropriate to have two thin-walled furnaces, as you wrote. Experience and long practice almost always produce convenient solutions.

Korolev,
Yeah, the name is often found, where he met his story.
Babay_Mazay
A classic furnace of this type is round in an iron case
For some reason my grandfather called them Dutch yes
Babay_Mazay,
Tiles are called flat tiles, only with patterns. I mean, voluminous, convex patterns. And this is tile.)))). As my grandfather explained (who built the stoves), a tile is necessary, otherwise, if the stove is heated to a very hot state, then just the plastered surface will crack and crumble ... I also cited to him that in a movie, for example, a stove without tile. He says that "from a bad life" they built such. But then it has very thick walls, takes up a lot of space and needs to be heated for a very long time ... (Read: it is not economical). Because you can’t make a large length and curvature of the channels in it - with thick outer walls, their beginning will not have time to cool down and the oven will not last long. Therefore, the walls between them have to be made thick (read: their length and the number of turns will be small). That's how it clings to one another, in the end we have a furnace of lower efficiency and larger sizes.))))
I conveyed, of course, the essence, which I then understood from his words .... in my own words ....
Author
Valery,
Thanks, very interesting. I would assume that these are the tiles and are, only more modestly decorated. The wrong side is how their loved ones are, and the name - for example, we call the “fireplace” the subflood in the Russian stove.
Yes, and very heated stoves can be stacked in a quarter (on the edge) of the brick, at least the heat exchange part

In our area, all stoves have long been (at least I can say about the 19th century) it was customary to make tiled.
By the way, I often heard that in Russia “tiles” are often called ceramic tiles. In our country, tile is tile. Tile with three-dimensional patterns, which is glued to the oven - a tile. And tile is such a trough-like ceramic product for the construction of furnaces:



And the side wall of the stove, usually the thickness of this tile, plus a quarter of the brick.
Apparently, in each area in its own way. This is exactly the case with us since ancient times. In old houses it is immediately obvious whether people lived richer or poorer - some have glossy tiles, while others have ordinary tiles, painted (whitewashed). Nobody built massive very furnaces in our country. And it's not about frosts (we also have up to -30 ... It happened, at least)))). We have decided to put several stoves.
Author
Oh yeah! On the stove all sorts of fun. My grandmother in the village of the Kursk region had such a stove. Ogromina, as Sharik used to say, “In the kitchen floor!” She was on a couch, still with thrown blankets and sheepskin coats. In my village, Russian stoves are also common, but small. Probably like half of that. You can’t sleep on this one, except for a child. Usually they dry all kinds of things. Not to say that the oven is super convenient, especially in today's life, when they rarely bake bread and generally use the hearth. It’s just that there are two stove-makers in the village who can’t do anything else. Yes, all these furnaces have underflooding - there is a firebox below and a long channel around the furnace. Usually they drown him. Among the Hare Krishna neighbors, such a Russian stove is decorated with the sign “Om” and the large inscription “Hare Krishna,” a touching sight.
There are several old houses (almost abandoned) where there are traditional adobe kilns. On a wooden crate, everything is as it should be.

Yes, and very heated stoves can be stacked in a quarter (on the edge) of the brick, at least the heat exchange part of the stove, above the firebox. I saw such furnaces in a textbook with orders. A classic furnace of this type is round in an iron case, but there are also rectangular ones.
So would be burned.)))). As a child, I had a duty, when the stove is flooded, be sure to check whether the beds are moved away from it. Once missed - the pillow became brown on the side.))))
I’m talking about another oven. But the one in the kitchen was basking in the same way. And there was no sunbed on it, as such. Unless, the child could lie on top ...)))).And the whole top hung on a metal pole mounted in the "bulging corner".
I explained that here we did not make the classic "Russian" stoves. In any kitchen oven there were always four "comforts". There was a firebox under two (they cooked them) and at its end the fire made a turn, and passing back under the next two (they also cooked on the far one, but on the fourth one everyone had a bucket of always warm water), went into the furnace’s body (a wall, a meter thick. It usually went out into an adjacent room), inside of which it looped, giving off heat, and fell into the upper “hood” hanging over the stove, from which it already went into the pipe. In this cap, there was another valve to exit the steam pipe, if it stood out strongly. The same valve was used during the flooding of a completely cooled furnace, when there is still no strong draft, and the "comforts" smoke. The whole stove (part of it in the kitchen) was about 2 meters long and 1.2 meters wide. But on top there was also a pipe, which was almost in the middle, with a slight forward shift) so that there was only space left for it, for a curled child!)))))
I asked my grandfather ... We somehow did not have such a "culture" - to sleep on the stove. They always slept in beds.
Which upset me. On the beds - not interesting!))))
Valery
it gets very hot - you don’t lie on it
So there mattresses and sheepskin coats were laid, for thermal insulation! yes
And in childhood, I dreamed of sleeping on such a stove.))) In our area, there were no "Russian" stoves even in pre-revolutionary houses. There were stoves in the kitchens, but they were with stoves for pots and cast-iron (with a mugathey were tiled cast iron to adjust the size to different diameters) and they were tiled. They were heated on the side (under this stove) - there was a firebox with a door and a fan, combined with an ash pan (under the grates). And already behind the stove, in the back there is a separate firebox-oven in order to bake bread / pies. They did not have a couch on top. Although there was a playground. But this whole site was a "heating shield" with moves inside and very hot - you can’t lie on it. And I was wondering how it sleeps on stoves? !! I read in books, but really didn’t understand! I tried to get in there - hotly.)))). Only then he noticed (from the pictures) that the Russian stoves on which they sleep had no cast-iron stove. And that they are larger! (As a rule, we have this stove in the kitchen, and its wall goes into the next room. And if there are a lot of rooms in the house, then they usually still have a stove (we had it that way), which was called a “wall”. Apparently , because they were located in the walls, protruding into both rooms, between which this wall stood. And I realized that the “Russians” had a different device. Apparently the “heat transfer paths” in them were located somewhere only on the sides (In our on the sides, too, but on top) ...
So never managed to sleep on a real stove ...)))
My grandparents had a large Russian stove, you could sleep on it! goodgood

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