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Homemade reinforcement clamp

Fixtures
Added 18 comments


Hello dear readers!



Over time, any master needs more and more different tools, including clamps. They are designed to fix and hold parts. They can be used both in carpentry and metalwork, and will be useful to any master. Their shape allows you to reliably press the workpieces for subsequent fastening, for example, to glue individual parts or for fixing metal parts when welding frames and so on. It is impossible to underestimate the importance of this tool in situations where you simply cannot do without them.

Factory models are usually produced from cast iron, which, as you know, is not very durable and can burst from excessive force. The steel casing makes it possible to exert more compression force without fear of breaking it, but they are more expensive and not always available.

Here is an option on how to make a convenient and reliable G-shaped clamp do it yourself from scraps of reinforcement. A homemade tool is good in that it can be made of the required size and shape that are required to perform the necessary tasks. In addition, at the same time it will be possible to save on a purchase, especially if you need several clamps, and it’s just always great to work with an instrument of your own manufacture. Only a little free time is needed, trimming reinforcement, pieces of sheet steel of suitable thickness, and other small things that accumulate over time in any workshop, which it is a pity to throw out and there is no particular benefit. The manufacturing process is not complicated, but of course some experience with welding and metal skills are required.

Necessary materials:


- Trim trim
- Sheet steel or plates
- Steel stud or bolt of the required length
- nuts
- If necessary, spray paint

Tools and consumables used in the manufacture of:


- Welding machine, OK-46 type electrodes
- Bulgarian with cutting and cleaning discs
- Drill, metal drill
- Vise
- Ruler, square
- Marker, punch

Clamp manufacturing process:


From a suitable reinforcement bar diameter with a grinder with a cutting disc, we cut the parts of the clamp body as in the photo in the places of welding at an angle of 45, in the place of fastening of the screw at 90.

For good penetration in the places of welding and reliable connection of parts, we remove the chamfer.
Welding is easier to carry out using rutile-coated electrodes.

Having fixed the parts with a clamp, we gradually weld the parts of the clamp body.
Homemade reinforcement clamp

When welding, it is important that all parts are in the same plane, observing right angles whenever possible.

The main building is ready. It is necessary to weld the stop, which is made of a steel plate of suitable thickness using a grinder with a cutting disc.


Weld the stop to the body. It is necessary to observe perpendicularity to the lower part of the body. This is easier to achieve using a vice or clamps, fixing the parts and making welding tacks. Having fitted the part with light strokes, we weld it finally.

The main building is ready

Since then it will be difficult to perform stripping, it is better to perform it at this stage, using a grinder with an abrasive or blade disc.


Now you need to make a clamping screw, a steel stud is suitable for this purpose, a bolt of the required length, or a finished screw.

The screw stop can be made of a thick washer or cut out of metal with a thickness of at least 4-5 mm. Of course, a lathe would greatly simplify the task, but not everyone has the opportunity to use it.

So that the emphasis can rotate on the screw and at the same time have a reliable base, we will probably screw the nut on the screw and sharpen the thread under the stop washer.


Fix the nut on the screw with welding points, which will prevent it from turning away.


We will clamp the screw in a vice and drill a hole in the end so that it can be further riveted.


In the prepared emphasis, we outline the future hole in the center

And drill the diameter of the turned part of the screw.

So that the riveted screw rotates freely and does not protrude beyond the washer, drill a hole at half the thickness of the workpiece.

Now it remains to install the washer on the screw and rivet so that it rotates freely, but the riveting does not protrude beyond the washer.

The screw is now ready to be installed on the housing.

After the nuts have been screwed in, the screw must be fixed without distortion with clamps and the parts welded by welding.

The clamp is almost ready it remains only to make the handle. There are different options with knobs, lamb, handles. Can be made with a pen in the shape of a darling. Give the steel rod the desired shape and weld to the screw.




Clamp ready hope you homemade I liked it, and you found something useful for yourself.
Do not forget that working with a power tool is dangerous and you must follow safety precautions and use protective equipment.
This material is provided for educational purposes only.

Good luck and creative inspiration! Share your ideas and homemade products.
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Added 18 comments

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18 comments
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Valery,
I am like you. It was too lazy to go to the store for a screw, then he invented a shurovert. xaxa
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
maximace,
All the same, it seems to me that the master, who can qualitatively make such a clamp in half an hour, has something better in his arsenal.

I am not a master, for example. For me it's just a hobby. And I have eight strong clamps and several different "homemade" ... Because often EIGHT was not enough. Something had to "collective farm" ...)))))
1) There are all the necessary "trim"
If there are no scraps, you need to buy not the material, but the FINISHED PRODUCT !!!.))) It will take so much time to do this. I often repeat this. This is done only if there is something.
P.S.But now, I can’t imagine a man who is friends with welding and the rest, who does not have trimming of studs and fittings))))
3) That everything takes half an hour.

If welding “stands and buzzes”, several grinders with different circles lie nearby and they are also included in the socket, and in the corner there is a mountain of metal scraps - half an hour is enough!

And the corners must be pulled together very often. They are often all “arc” curved (They are raised on the crane in batches, and they bend). Yes, and "back up." To weld together, for example, three-meter, sometimes you need at least six clamps - three in each plane. Otherwise, between them there may be one and a half cm gap.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Guest Alexander
For 200 one big. Nothing and nowhere, I do not retreat, visit the store yourself.

So it was
If 200 rub. for 2


Yes, and with such an aplomb, such as "you're a rogue, you can’t buy a clamp!" xaxa
... (How else to understand the meaning of the phrase "If 200 rub. for 2 clamps is expensive,it’s better of course to cook such as in the subject, and to mess with it until the end of the century :)))
Now, not two hundred, but four hundred ....
I’ll say right away, and four hundred is not expensive for me ... And a thousand, too (now is it less than twenty dollars? For a normal clamp - the usual price). Yes, and where does the expensive, not expensive ????
We are talking about making it when NOT HANDLED NORMAL !!!!
... Okay .. Let’s leave that you started to “wag”, claiming that it wasn’t considered shit that was normal for welding, which was boasted at the very beginning, but the other one, which is a little twice as expensive, but also cheap ... .
Good. Answer the directly posed question:
You need a clamp, but in the nearest store it is not!
Your actions??? (I’ll say right away that doing work tomorrow is not an option! So do those who don’t WANT this work, but MANDATORY to do it ... It will be a “cool excuse”)))). And those who WANTS to do will find opportunities ...
And then you stubbornly replace concepts ... In your context, it turns out that they do it in order to save money ... Do not. Let's really accept the postulate that we need a clamp - but it is not!
So I got exactly this situation. I hoped that mine was enough, but they weren’t enough (although I have a total of eight to ten.)))
"And the fact that an assistant is required in this case - you won’t leave the key compressed ..." ... and you will dream up, perhaps you will guess.

Again with the same aplomb ??? Well, they would suggest if you know how to ..
For example, I’m really sure that you can use pipe wrenches as clamps only “from a very, very bad life” ... Although I myself used to try it that way ...
So, without any misinterpretation, I would really be grateful if you voiced ...
(Only, of course, you don’t need “advice from the children's book“ About the hammer, pincers, and other smart things, ”such as“ twist it with a wire, wind it with an insulating tape, put on a suitable tube.)))) We are adults here and not “little felts” .. . We understand perfectly both you and I about the disadvantage of this method of fixing the key ...)
Guest Guest +2
Reply To quote A complaint
Well done.
Why debate, the author does not write that simple is better than F-shaped. Each has its pros and cons. And why compare the factory is better or not the factory, everyone understands in the store you can buy everything. This is a home-made site here everyone is doing something because they like it, because it was necessary, etc. Another thing if you did better, then show your creation.
+3
Reply To quote A complaint
And yet this design has the right to life. For example, if there are factory clamps, at least one may not be enough during the performance of any work. You can quickly cook homemade especially without bothering with the thoroughness and accuracy of its manufacture. Especially true for those who, as noted above, have a stock of all kinds of metal scraps of spare parts, etc. Which will speed up and simplify the task of making homemade products.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
All the same, it seems to me that the master, who can qualitatively make such a clamp in half an hour, has something better in his arsenal.After all, there are no guarantees in advance that: 1) All the necessary “scraps” will be found 2) That it will turn out to cut everything evenly, weld, drill, rivet 3) That everything will take half an hour.
In addition, the factory pipe usually has a quick-clamp design.

I looked at the clamps on the link. Conventional clamps. Maybe even I have the same ones. Medium scallop pens. Instead of one handle, I welded a piece of traction perpendicularly, fortunately in this case there is no need to maintain evenness.
It is also unclear why, before the dope, to tighten the structure with clamps, even from 50 angles, if you need to fix the structure before welding. I tried to align the 50x150 floorboards by pulling them together with a clamp, and there the clamp went arc. But here I have no complaints about the clamp. And in order to fix 2 angles of 50x50, a clamp from the ob will go to each other for 200r of steam.

Of course, I understand that there are different designs, and I do not pretend to be a super master (I’m still a handyman), but tell me what were the designs that needed to be compressed with great effort at the full reach of the clamp? In addition, judging by the photograph, the clamp is quite small. The photograph on the background of a4 297mm sheet, it turns out that the clamp is about 110-120mm, and the clamps are 150 and 200mm by reference, which is much more. What makes you think that this clamp will behave better in such conditions? Maybe it will also bend it with an arc, because the profile is not optimal.
Guest Alexander 0
Reply To quote A complaint
Valery,
For 200 one big. Nothing and nowhere, I do not retreat, visit the store yourself. Definitely it will be better than such masturbation. In place, if there are no clamps, it is easier to weld the F-ku in size and tighten it all. "And the fact that an assistant is required in this case - you won’t leave the key compressed ..." ... and you will dream up, perhaps you will guess.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Guest Alexander
In the same Ob there are clamps with a stronger rib, but more expensive (about 250-300) They would have pulled the 50 corner without problems.

And how is your fiery phrase that
If 200 rub. for 2 clamps is expensive, it’s better of course to cook such as in the subject, and to mess with it until the end of the century :)))

Are you slowly starting the "departure" ??? scratch 200 rubles have already moved to 500-600.)))
I suggested comparable in size.
What is the size of it? It is necessary to offer comparable efforts.
About threads: why then use a screw in a vice? And not just a metric thread with a pitch of 2-2.5 mm.?

Because there is such a thing as the "principle of reasonable sufficiency." Perhaps you just can’t imagine how much ... (more precisely, how many times) in mass production the manufacturing process of resistant threads is more expensive than the manufacturing process of a triangular metric !!
But in a vice it is impossible to do without taking into account the necessary efforts. In addition, the clamp can be used once every six months and "clamped twice". The vice is much more often, and, importantly, not twice ...)))). Therefore, threaded threads are very, very rarely made on clamps - they are not used in industrial manufacturing processes, and there is an abundance of metric threads when used for domestic use. So do persistent only on the "especially monstrous")))))
Look carefully: it is also metric on your clamps.
If something needs to be pulled off well, there is a pipe wrench 4 and I don’t know the number, but it will be on my chest.

I have both the 4th and 5th number.
But I don’t understand how they can "pull off something" well. After all, this is something that can shift relative to each other (the lips do not converge in a straight axis, but in a circle.) I'm not talking about the fact that the compression amplitude must be less than the stroke of the jaws. And the fact that this requires an assistant - you can’t leave the key compressed ...
From all this it follows that you can use a pipe wrench instead of a clamp only "from a very bad life."))). When even the wire was not found ..)))
Guest Alexander 0
Reply To quote A complaint
Valery,
In the same Ob there are clamps with a stronger rib, but more expensive (about 250-300) They would have pulled a 50 corner without problems. I suggested comparable sizes. About threads: why then use a screw in a vice? And not just metric thread with a pitch 2-2.5 mm.?

Alexey himself,
20 years ago the USSR was gone, and the Ob was already working. Such as for a small job and more for the corresponding ones. If something needs to be pulled well, there is a pipe wrench 4 and I don’t know the number, but I will have 110 pipes in my chest cranks the ground with the pad
0
Reply To quote A complaint
If I used it for 20 years, then apparently the clamp is still Soviet, but they were not bad ... Now they are entirely Chinese, made of metal like homnin, naturally ... gnomes. Naturally, for serious work, a homemade product is useful, but in it the margin of safety of a body made of fittings and a threaded screw is not comparable, although it can be replaced with wear.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Ashor,
From reinforcement, I think, for a long stiffness, too, is not enough. I’ll have to take it very thick, so as not to bend. Yes, and then the “slip knot" itself should be made of what? out of the pipe? It won’t go - the long one won’t be biased, the short one will stretch ... Unless, from the nut.
This is not the first year that I want to somehow make from the strip (I have a lot of scraps 25x4 and 40x4). In this case, make the lower platform also from the nut. It happens that you need to compress somewhere inside, "behind the sides." Then a long bolt can be screwed into the nut, and its head will be the supporting platform.
And this type of "simple" clamps are also in demand. They compress the planes of the corners that I mentioned, and so on. For example, I have a few cut off from old meat grinders lying around.))). It happens that you need a long corner, for example, grab along the entire length, and it is curved by an arc. (This often happens, because whole bundles are lifted by cranes at enterprises, mooring only in the middle.) Sometimes four or five clamps have to be used for this. Simple short.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
. Only the most gifted can guess to pull together 50 corners, why not 100 ???
Because then I needed to pull off exactly 50. And because there were no others at hand !!! And I did as you suggested))). I went and bought a couple of clamps, which were found in the nearest store! By coincidence, only this shit was found there, which, as you convince, is quite capable of coping with the same load that the clamp that you call pornography is coping with ... Remind me?
Here I sit and think ... NAFIG this porn ???! If 200 rub. for 2 clamps is expensive, it’s better of course to cook such as in the subject, and to mess with it until the end of the century :)))

So you already decide: Smoot your clamps completely replace this "porn?"
Especially, if you recall that, however, I had to “get involved” with just the “normal clamps that I have been singing for 20 years” that you so much praised. Because the homemade product presented here would do such a job, but yours wouldn’t !!!
. And why about the "strong and weak thread" in quotation marks?

Because the rolled thread on a cheap stud will withstand a significantly greater load than the products you offer. So what difference does it make? You did not propose replacing the weak with the strong; you suggested replacing the weak with the very weak. ))))
To summarize: Do you really think that “yours” in all respects will replace this ???

You can break a horseradish with a fool .. Only the most gifted can guess to pull together 50 corners

And here is the answer to this question, please:
What would be your actions in this situation? Data:
1. The design of the 50 corners "does not fit"
2. You need to finish TODAY (and already evening).
3. You are not “especially gifted”, therefore you are sure that with these clamps:
______ 1. You can replace the strong clamps from the reinforcement.
______ 2. At the same time, they cannot be used here, because ....)
dontknow
Guest Alexander 0
Reply To quote A complaint
Valery,
With a fool, you can break a horseradish .. Only the most gifted can guess to pull together 50 corners, why not 100 ??? Especially when you have iron on you. And why about the "strong and weak thread" in quotation marks? This is your opus. But still, measure the angle of the thread, if there is anything.
Normal clamps, I use it for 20 years.
Author +1
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Valery
maximace,
When you weld something near the thread, ALWAYS hide it! At least a piece of paper, cardboard, rags, a little soaked with water ...

The correct remark in the text is not this, definitely when welding the thread must be covered.
Regarding the skew of the nuts, since they were welded on the screw and first on the tacks, this was avoided. But the advice is correct, of course, if there is a connecting nut it is better to use it.
Thanks for the good advice!
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Guest Alexander,
Well, they made fun! ))))
And are you still discussing something about "strong and weak thread"? )))
You, apparently, are "with iron to" you "? ... I will explain. The product on the link you provided cannot be used as a full-fledged clamp. It is only suitable as a design element for boys.))). There was a case," from bad of life "went to a nearby store and bought a couple of these misunderstandings .. (The work was on). I pulled a structure from the fiftieth corners before welding them - both had a" back "in an arc.))) They helped me then - I screwed round them to the wire 12-ki, after it was pulled to the right size, but one of them cranked the handle (they’re there generally wooden!) when I tried to tighten it harder, grabbing it with a pipe wrench (How else can I pull it strongly? By the hand of the longitudinal handle?) and I had to pull the pipe with a pipe wrench then the thrust pads for both flattened and stopped rotating. After weakening, they fell off and flew.))))
So they are lying around ... If I’ll be at my construction site today, I’ll take a picture ...
For a tree, no matter where it went. For gluing something ... But like welding, they are not even close.
Guest Alexander +1
Reply To quote A complaint
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Valery,
As for the clamp, I also thought of making it from reinforcement, only I knew it was F-shaped, it is easier to change the size of the workpiece with it. While you scroll all the threads you’ll get tired.
And so he pushed it, made two turns and already clamped it.
And about welding and threading, taps and dies were invented for this;)
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
maximace,
I do not agree. A purchased clamp is quite expensive, firstly. (I'm talking about those that will not break during the first very tight puff).
And secondly, such a clamp, when needed, can be done along the way, spending half an hour. Everything you need at your fingertips. In half an hour you do not have time to wash, change clothes, go to the store (sometimes not one))), go back, change again ...

As for the product, I somehow did not think about the fittings ... But in vain .. The rigidity is sufficient. And I always have a bunch of scraps ...
Only now, two nuts ... Now, honestly, because it was skewed when welding ?!)))). Had to develop later?))))
You just need to take one connector. (I always have a bucket with connecting and cap, for example ... Often such "non-standard" ones are used in homemade products ...
And yet, the author did not focus on one important point. For many, it is obvious, but someone can "get" ...
When you weld something near the thread, ALWAYS hide it! At least a piece of paper, cardboard, a rag slightly moistened with water ... Otherwise, if at least one spray of the melt gets and sticks, there will be big trouble. (And it will surely fall! Even into the internal thread of a nut flies when it is welded to the side, sometimes. And the screw sprays stopudovo!
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
The case when the game is not worth the candle. It’s easier and better to buy a factory product.

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