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The first step in creating the perfect light in the house


LED lamps and fixtures firmly won first place in the lighting of our home. But very often we are faced with the fact that the reliability of these devices does not meet our requirements. Analyzing dozens of failed lamps, studying their design features, as well as getting acquainted with the used elemental base, I established the reasons why they burn out. For example, very often the lamp driver is located on a panel with LEDs and when it is heated it fails. In other cases, when the driver is located closer to the base, it burns out from a sharp change in the mains voltage. LED burnout occurs only when the driver is no longer able to cope with its task. Therefore, when developing the system, I decided to completely abandon the use of the driver. In addition, I had to change the parameters of the voltage supplied to the lamp.

And ultimately - to expand the operational capabilities of lamps and luminaires i.e. make them adjustable. I invite everyone to familiarize themselves with my project. The theme of the first stage is the modernization of lamps and fixtures. All lamps and luminaires supplied to our country have different connection schemes for LEDs and, moreover, their parameters are not the same. And this, in my opinion, is not a very difficult question, and we will figure it out. In a practical study, namely: applying a constant voltage to a single LED, the following results were obtained. At a voltage of 2.4 V - a weak glow, at a voltage of 3 V - a bright glow. So the diodes used in this lamp are designed for a nominal voltage of 3V. On the second socket from another lamp. At a voltage of 7V - a weak glow, 9 volts - a bright glow. So the diodes used in this lamp are designed for a nominal value of 9V. On the third panel from the third lamp, 14V - a weak glow, 18V - a bright glow. So the nominal value is 18 volts. There were also such ones, 28V - a weak glow and 36V - bright, but I do not use these panels.

I decided to use the first, second and third version of the panels with LEDs, which can be connected to a circuit with a rating of 18V - we will take it as a standard. Therefore, after opening the lamps, it is necessary to determine what rated voltage their LEDs are. And by soldering, make the connection as in the figure.

The photo shows samples of redone panels from various lamps.By scraping the upper layer of paint on the panel with a scalpel and carefully cutting off the conductors of the printed circuit board, to the insulating layer, the connection option necessary for the lamp is soldered. The soldered panels are varnished in places of cut and soldering. Next, we check for operability by connecting to the source.

Now we collect the bridge circuit of the rectifier, soldering it into the lamp housing. We derive the ends from the cap through the fuse 1A. We insert an electrolytic capacitor 2200mkf / 25v into the base, unsolder the circuit and assemble the lamp. I really liked the option of upgrading the lamp purchased recently. I mounted panels from various lamps into it, and its body became like a heat sink.

Photo mount diode bridge. It is desirable to further isolate the electrolytic capacitor.

Modernized, according to the described method, lamps and luminaires should preferably be checked after assembly. Apply a voltage of 19 volts to the base, measure the current and mark with a marker. Many will have a question why I do not use the sold lamps on 12v or 24v. The fact is that drivers are also installed in these lamps and various types of LEDs are used.

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20 comments
The Lord was merciful from meeting such monsters ...
The most nasty thing I know is DRLF-400 in its native design, a cartridge and ballast in one flooded case, a greenhouse design. And in the greenhouse it’s warm and damp ...
ino53,
The meaning is this. The same tube with vapor of mercury, argon, xenon ... BUT. She has no electrodes. But there is a coil nearby (primary winding of the transformer). The voltage from the generator is supplied to it, different frequencies happen, from 1 kHz and higher. The gas ionizes in the tube, a low-temperature plasma arises. And this fire cord begins to play the role of a secondary winding of a transformer, consisting of one, even less, turn. Cool?! goodgood 60,000 hours of operation or more (but this is for lamps that are somewhere around 1.5 kW of power).
Quote: R555
ino53,
Ever come across without electrode (induction) lamps like VKSSh or similar?

No, enlighten the fool.

Quote: Guest Alexey
... pulsations of the light flux due to unstabilized current. Unlike incandescent lamps, LEDs are not so inertial - they flicker, although this is not visible to the eye ...

The principle is taken from fluorescent lamps - HF pulsations are smoothed by the inertia of the phosphor, the luminous flux is constant, but here is another. LEDs, bitches, high-speed (they work in optical fibers at gigahertz), another thing, our eye reacts to tens of kilohertz - I don’t know.
Guest Alex
I want to focus on this: drivers in the lamps are not installed at all at the whim of the manufacturer. Look at the converted lamp through the smartphone’s camera. Do you see the stripes? These are pulsations of the light flux due to unstabilized current. Unlike incandescent lamps, LEDs are not so inertial - they flicker, although this is not visible to the eye. I would not want to spend hours in such lighting - it is harmful to the eyes. I also tried such "drivers" with a bridge. I had to put a high-capacity filter. The volume is larger than the native driver. Conclusion: do not do this.
ino53,
Ever come across without electrode (induction) lamps like VKSSh or similar?
Korolev,
Of course, even when powered by a stabilized source, each LED light must have its own current stabilizer. But that’s all right. Since the author puts a diode bridge in the base, it means that it is powered by alternating current. Right? And why the hell is the E27 base offering.So all the bulbs will need to be redone from 220 V to 18 V or how much he invented there. This is, indeed, the most crazy idea that I have met on the site (and not only on this).
Korolev,
Of course!
There I quoted with my addition.
ino53,
lighting network separate, low voltage and stabilized
Maybe I'm wrong, but I think every specific lamp, on specific diodes, should have an individual current stabilizer, no? scratch
......
From the article. Those. the lighting network is separate, low voltage and stabilized.
Alexey himself,
You understand, maybe he (RAZRABOTCHIK) and a genius, but what he shows. ireful He takes a 220 V bulb with an E27 base, throws out the driver, puts a diode bridge and a 2200 uF capacitor at 25 V After screwing such a product into the cartridge immediately BANG-BANG. Completely fucked comrade.
2Dem,
Well - another thing ... everything became clear to everyone ..
2Dem,
And who is this, Muscovite or something? The letter R?

2Dem,
Yes, that's him. RAZRABOTHCIK I was the first to write a message that a suspicious type has appeared. You can scroll a few days ago and see.

And I split it very simply. A beginner will not immediately give his Moscow number.
Alexey himself, he is wrong in that he makes people and throws money. In another discussion, I wrote how I knew this work, but where we remade such masturbation, the customer had the money, he didn’t get critical, although it was also unpleasant and not a little. But Yura can not only deceive the rich, he will easily take the money from those who invite him as a normal specialist and give the last. So speaking of insults, scum that deceives people and at the same time harms them, it is scum that deceives and harms, no more and no less. I call a spade a spade.
Well, as for “how to”, it’s right not to do like this mediocrity. Any driver, if the current is not intentionally pulled up in it, will work hundreds of times better than a fraudster from Dolgoprudny offers. Therefore, the only thing to do with the factory driver is to see if the current corresponds to the LEDs and, if not, set it to the desired value.
Guest Sergey,
This is a question for whom?
I wrote about the garage, but there are 220.

2Dem,
In fact, in addition to insulting the author, it would be nice to write what he was specifically wrong about and how to do it right.
It will be useful information for everyone.
Therefore, when developing the system, I decided to completely abandon the use of the driver.

Because de Bill, you are unable to understand how it works.
For example, very often the lamp driver is located on a panel with LEDs and when it is heated it fails. In other cases, when the driver is located closer to the base, it will burn out due to a sharp change in the mains voltage.

And when the driver is half a centimeter farther away, the laws of physics do not apply to it anymore and the sudden change in voltage is no longer scary? Or is heating already working here?
And this, in my opinion, is not a very difficult question, and we will figure it out.

Better understand the question of who in childhood constantly beat you with your head on the floor. Or are you all so immortal in your Dolgoprudny? You carry absolutely inappropriate garbage.
Right! LEDs are powered by CURRENT, not voltage. And, approximately, for all LEDs, the voltage ranges from 2.8 to 3.4 V. Only 10 and 30 V can be applied to the matrices (and I don’t observe them). And so, the LED works like a zener diode somewhere 3 V. And I also do not understand that the author could not find a datasheet on the LEDs to read about them? And why feed the 18 V bulbs? Or is it everywhere there?

And the brightness of the LEDs depends only on the current !!!!!
The voltage drop across the bridge is probably taken into account for 1N ..., but there are FR ..., HER ..., SF ..., monolithic bridges, everyone has a different voltage drop, normalized like "no more."
Guest Sergey
As far as I know, LEDs do not have a rated voltage, they have a rated current. and it is the current that needs to be controlled, and the voltage drop across the diode is a side effect. It may turn out that when the voltage is increased by 0.5 volts, the current consumption in your circuit will increase by 2 times .. with all that it implies

Chet did not understand. Do you have an alternating voltage of 18 volts in your garage suitable for light bulbs?
Quote: Alexey himself
Changed for a long time all the lamps at home in the country and in garages. Mid-priced.
None of them have burned out yet, but the luminous flux of everyone is clearly lower than the declared one, maybe the voltage is just below the norm for the LED ...

Nope! This is stated above what is inherent! ))))
Changed for a long time all the lamps at home in the country and in garages. Mid-priced.
None of them have burned out yet, but the luminous flux of everyone is clearly lower than the declared one, maybe the voltage is just below the norm for the LED ...

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