Arched door manufacturing

I think that it makes no sense to build a carpentry workbench for the manufacture of 2-3 doors. Therefore, we’ll make a wime from four boards intersected at an angle of 90 °. Wooden lugs are sewn onto the ends of the boards. A door box is wedged to them. The wedges provide sufficient compression force when gluing.
Preparation, marking, trimming of bars for doors we will do everything on the same door that was used for glazing.
Standard dimensions of the box bar: 80 mm - width, 50-40 mm - thickness. It is necessary to prepare the bars of the desired length, and the transverse dimensions of the bar should be slightly larger than necessary. Having finished the bars, you will achieve the desired size. Now you need to remove a quarter from the bar to ensure the vestibule of the door.
A quarter of the flat bars are removed using a hand saw (Fig. 32).
Preliminary quarter mark with a pencil. Then adjust the saw to the desired cutting depth and cut along the line, without reaching it 1-2 mm from the inside.
After making both cuts, a quarter is removed. And the resulting groove is finished with a zenobel planer to hell.
At worst, a quarter can be completely beaten with a piece of iron taken out of a plane, or just an ax. The ax is a universal tool. You only need to be able to use it, as our ancestors knew how.
Well, with straight bars everything is clear, but what about the arched part? An arch is made of two or three elements depending on the curvature. The easiest way to cook it this way: on a flat sheet (chipboard, fiberboard, plywood) draw the desired curve. Then, along this curve, lay out three bars (or two) with an overlap of 4-5 cm (spike) on each other. And repeat the curve already on the bars. And now treat with hatchet and jointer. A quarter choose a chisel.
All connections in the box are performed on a simple single spike (Fig. 33).
When cutting a tenon joint, you need to remember that the hacksaw also has its own thickness. If you saw exactly according to the dash, the connection will turn out with a gap. Therefore, in the manufacture of the spike, you need to saw along the dashes from the outside.And when cutting a groove under the spike - along the dashes on the inside. The cut groove is chosen with a chisel.
When making a spike, do not chop off excess wood. Chipping can only be a very experienced carpenter, who sees in the direction of the fibers of the tree, how to chip.
Mark the stud connection with a meter and a square. The stud connection is assembled by lightly tapping with a mallet on carpentry glue. Then a hole is drilled and a wooden dowel is also hammered on the glue. In the manufacture of boxes made of soft wood (spruce, pine) the nagel must be solid (birch, oak, etc.). And vice versa.
Joiner glue is prepared as follows: tiles of glue are poured with cold water (so that water covers the glue) and left to soak for a day. Then the glue is boiled in a water bath. On an open fire it is impossible - it burns.
If it is difficult to draw a curve, put a sheet of cardboard or fiberboard in the finished opening (for which you are preparing the door) and outline it.
When the box is ready, it needs to be placed in a groove, measure the diagonals (and if necessary, correct) and wedge.
For interior doors, the lower bar is not placed. In this case, the bottom-down frame is simply temporarily stitched together with anything.
Now let's prepare the canvas. It is easier to manufacture as it is done at woodworking plants. We prepare the second frame exactly the same without quarters and smaller in size. Such that she entered the box with a gap of 2 mm. Clearance is needed XI so that the door does not catch on the box when opening. On this frame, we make two shields of fiberboard or thin plywood and paste on the frame from two sides. The middle can be filled with anything: rolled up newspapers, cardboard or wooden bars of the required thickness. The bars can be placed as you like: along, across, at least diagonally. If a lock crashes into the door, it means that one of the extreme bars of the frame must be of appropriate width. You also need to put a block in the place of future fastening of the door handle.
At woodworking plants, the door leaf after the fiberboard sticker is placed under the press. IN home Under conditions, the press can be replaced with clamps (Fig. 34) or simply in addition to pasting, nail the sheets to the frame with nails. To drown hats, and then to putty. Thickness of 3 mm plywood is enough to slightly drown a nail.
If you want, you can imitate a paneled door by sewing or gluing the corresponding strips, or create your own unique pattern.
Why is a smooth door good? It can be painted. One girl studied with me at the institute. She painted all the doors in the apartment on biblical themes. And how cool she got it. Can't you draw? I'll help you. Take the picture you like (it’s better not very complicated), draw a grid on it with a pencil and a ruler, for example with 1x1 cm cells. Now the same grid, but already in scale (for example 1:10, i.e. 10x10 cm grid), - at the door or wherever you want. And gradually, square by square, drag the drawing. First in a pencil, then, erasing the excess in paint.
If you decide to draw, then try to maintain the style. So that any original witch you choose is combined with the rest of the interior.
When used as plywood sheathing, the frame of the door leaf does not have to be knitted into a spike, it is possible in half a tree. Plywood is quite tough material.