» Car DIY »Scheme so that the radio does not turn off during engine start

Scheme so that the radio does not turn off during engine start

Car DIY / Electronics
Added 27 comments
Scheme so that the radio does not turn off during engine start

Often, when the car engine starts, the radio is turned off. This happens due to a circuit closure and the voltage disappears for a few seconds, then the device reboots. With this scheme, this will not happen.

For this you need a capacitor with a parameter of 22000μF 16V, as well as a diode with the lowest voltage drop.

The diode is necessary so that it does not pass current from the capacitor and flows only directly to the radio. The diode is soldered to +, then the positive leg of the capacitor is soldered and then there is the solder of two wires, orange and red, which go to the radio, and the capacitor leg (-) to black (minus wire). With proper assembly, everything works 100%, the radio even works at high volume and does not turn off.


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27 comments
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Quote: Nruter
ACC is the power line that comes from the ignition switch. +12 Extra - this is the power line that comes out of the relay unit and feeds the ACC line, which I broke. It looks like this: ACC >>> Relay block >>> + 12 Extras.

I repeated the scheme, everything works! For some reason, in the on state, relay 3 slightly heats up (30A, the wires are thick, the contacts are soldered), I hope it’s uncritical.
+1
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. better plus IGN1 search on the lock)))
Tinkering with radio tape recorders only in a few cars and for a long time, but ....
Audi-100 "shaggy years) - it is right in the" Magnitolovsky "harness. No need to search and pull anywhere ...
Opel Omega-B (also old, although 10 years younger than Audi. True, it was “fully packed”.) - not only is it there, it also does not disappear after removing the key until until you slam the driver's door! ... Then only she understands that everything! The owner has left, you can drain the water!))))) (Then the ability to control the glasses also disappeared, and in general, she then raises all the glasses. And if you leave the key in the lock, slam it, don’t slam it, nothing happened ...
In newer ones, the radio tape recorders have not changed ... (They are already "mounted")))). But they did not overload ...

In general, I always thought (and this was confirmed in practice) that the “radio tape recorder” does not go into reboot with a correctly selected and correctly charged battery. The sound just disappears.
Even as the “indicator” served - the radio tape recorder rebooted at startup - which means that it is necessary to remove and maintain the battery in the evening.
+1
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ACC is the power line that comes from the ignition switch. +12 Extra - this is the power line that comes out of the relay unit and feeds the ACC line, which I broke. It looks like this: ACC >>> Relay block >>> + 12 Extras.
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Quote: Nruter

When disarming, the door locks are activated and power is supplied to the ACC line. Additionally, it became possible to control the windows of all doors.
smile

I understand correctly that for this you need to connect ACC and + 12V Extras on your circuit?
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it remains only to find a craftsman who will collect it in the city where I live, I think it will be very difficult)))
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Here's a video.
Everything was done for myself. Works great. No need to discuss yes
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Quote: speed27dv
can scheme

You are welcome.


Explanations for the scheme.
In normal condition (doors are closed, the car is on the signaling), there is no current consumption.
1. When removed from the alarm. At the entrance Open +12 V voltage pulse comes from the central locking unit (CH) or alarm unit (BS). This is how someone, depending on what is installed.
Contact closes briefly K1.1 (1-3) and through normally closed contacts K2.1 (1-4) +12 V power is supplied to the relay K3 and K5. At the same time, power appears on the line +12 Extras. Triggered relay K3 self-locking with your contacts K3.1 (1-3) and food always stays on the line +12 Extras. Triggered simultaneously with K3 relay K5 your contacts K5.1 (1-3) delivers mass to the line Ground Extras.
2. When setting the alarm. At the entrance Close impulse arrives + 12 V from CH. Relay trips K2 and your contacts (1-4) breaks the power circuit K3 and K5. Line +12 Extras de-energized. Mass disappears on the line Ground Extras.
3. Such a situation is possible when you are driving in a car, playing a radio, everything is fine smile And suddenly it took to lock the door. In this case, everything will be according item 2. To prevent this from happening, a relay is introduced into the circuit K4. It works when the car moves, when there is +12 on the ACC line or in the parking lot, if the key is in the ignition and turned to the ACC position. Then K4 its contacts (1-3) will supply power to the line +12 Extras.

If no additional mass is needed, then a relay can be excluded. K5. Relays K1, K2, K5 any small-sized low-power 12 V. Relays K3 and K4 automobile.

The unit itself has been installed in the car for 6 years, so there are no photos. I didn’t think anyone would need it scratch
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Quote: Nruter
Sometimes it happens xaxa
I have a full-time GU powered by ACC. In this case, until you insert the key and turn it into the ACC position, the radio will not work. This is not always convenient, because if in the summer you open the door while listening to the radio, then the open door alarm will be sawed.
For myself, I solved this problem a long time and radically. Put a homemade block of several relays. The unit is controlled by the signal for closing / opening the electric door locks. In the initial state, when the machine is closed and is on the signaling, the unit is de-energized and does not consume energy. When disarming, the door locks are activated and power is supplied to the ACC line. Additionally, it became possible to control the windows of all doors.
So I don’t even bother to turn off the radio. Put on the signalization and everything turned off. For unbelievers I can make a video and show smile

it is possible. I also want to do this)))
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Quote: speed27dv
and on this plus is it safe to connect the radio ???

If you switch the radio power to IGN1, then no capacitor and diode are needed at all.
I will not advise anything about the fuse. I do not want to be, though indirect, but the culprit of the ignition of the wiring in your car.
And further. In the radio itself, capacitors are already on the power circuit. They do not allow the “shut up” of the sound at maximum volume, smoothing out the voltage ripple.
+1
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I'm already afraid to experiment with this circuit. better plus IGN1 search on the lock)))
if I put a smaller capacitor then the good of this circuit, it will not hold power to the radio! 22,000 is not enough!
if only try to put 1000 on a radar detector.
and I correctly soldered diodes? they are each 10A at 16 volts
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I understood everything thanks!
and on this plus is it safe to connect the radio ???
need to put a pre-sync and how many amperes for this plus ???
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Quote: speed27dv
the monitor starts to blunt and distort on the video recorder and on the display of the voltmeter then you start it does not work then the fuse blows

Everything is correct. The capacitor is discharged. When voltage is applied to it, a charging current occurs. Approximately it can be calculated as follows. The resistance of an open diode depends on forward voltage and is very small. The internal resistance of the battery is negligible. Therefore, when a voltage is applied to the capacitor, its charging current will be very large. More than fuse rating. He burns out, but not immediately, because he has a lot of inertia. For the experiment, replace the capacitor 22000 with 500 or 1000. And nothing will burn out.
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Where to find IGN1
on the ignition switch?

On the ignition. It is necessary to control at which terminal of the lock when turning the key on the starter the voltage does not disappear, and when the key is pulled out, it disappears.
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I think in the wrong direction or on the wrong cable there is a diode, the current goes back, and the voltage there is not 12V but 16V, that's your electronics.
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this is how i collected the yellow +
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100% did not confuse!
maybe things in diodes?
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Where to find IGN1
on the ignition switch?
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No, I didn’t mix it up!
checked 100% correctly. does not burn right away!
you pull out the key everything is fine, then you reinsert it, the monitor on the video recorder starts to blunt and the monitor is distorted, and then you start the voltmeter display and it doesn’t pass then the fuse blows
+1
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Sometimes it happens xaxa
I have a full-time GU powered by ACC. In this case, until you insert the key and turn it into the ACC position, the radio will not work. This is not always convenient, because if in the summer you open the door while listening to the radio, then the open door alarm will be sawed.
For myself, I solved this problem a long time and radically. Put a homemade block of several relays. The unit is controlled by the signal for closing / opening the electric door locks. In the initial state, when the machine is closed and is on the signaling, the unit is de-energized and does not consume energy. When disarming, the door locks are activated and power is supplied to the ACC line. Additionally, it became possible to control the windows of all doors.
So I don’t even bother to turn off the radio. Put on the signalization and everything turned off. For unbelievers I can make a video and show smile
+1
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You can add it.
+2
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And then one fine winter day you forget to turn off the radio and enjoy running around a dead battery.
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Quote: Nruter
just transfer the power to the BAT line.
In this case, probably, for complete happiness, it is also a good idea to add a suppressor.
+1
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I’ve never read a big nonsense shok
Author, do you even know why the radio turns off during startup and why?
If not, then explain. The car has several power lines and they are called practically the same for everyone:
1. BAT is a power line directly connected through fuses to the battery.Some important circuits are fed from it, for example, brake lights, car controller, etc.
2. IGN1 and IGN2 - various controllers join them. These circuits are switched on only by the ignition key and the IGN1 circuit does not break when the engine starts.
3. ACC - power supply radio, power windows, cigarette lighter, power controllers, etc. This circuit breaks at startup. Therefore, the radio is turned off.
The need for shutdown is that during the operation of the starter in the on-board network, voltage surges occur. Why this is happening, read on the internet.
If annoying turning off the radio, just transfer the power to the BAT line.
Here is an example of what I wrote:
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polarity Kandera not mixed up?
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Hello !
assembled according to the scheme that is at the very top
took two diodes of 10A to 16v paralleled them
22000 x 16 V capacitor
total burn fuse
tape recorder does not hold
-4
Reply To quote A complaint
If the radio was connected correctly, then there was no reboot. And the sound, like, should disappear when the starter is working ...

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