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Subwoofer BaundPass 6 order

Subwoofer BaundPass 6 order

I offer all lovers of good, solid bass the design of a closed subwoofer.

Nowadays, all audiophiles lack the usual stereo sound, they want at least a 2.1 system. And for such a system, in addition to the left and right speakers, a third is needed - a subwoofer.

According to normal, the construction of the subwoofer should begin with the choice of a low-frequency speaker (size, power), then having the speaker parameters and using one of a number of well-known programs for calculating subwoofers to get a drawing of the box.

I had a low-frequency head, 8 inches in size. By design, a decision was made - BaundPass 6th order. In this design, the highest efficiency in low-frequency sound, plus the speaker is completely protected from mechanical damage from the outside.

I took a chance, took as a basis the drawing of the box from a 10 inch speaker and proportionally reduced it to fit my 8 inches. In parallel, I drew everything in the SPlan 7.0 program, with all sizes.

The material for the manufacture of the subwoofer enclosure is better to use MDF or chipboard, at least 16-18 mm. I was lucky, I had an old, two-sided desk. Material thickness - 17mm. If someone will repeat the design, then in the drawing, take into account your thickness of the material.

For manufacturing, I needed a tool:
- Electric jigsaw and files to it for a clean cut;
- Manual electric milling cutter and a set of milling cutters;
- Electric drill, screwdriver, drill on wood;
- Files, sanding paper;
- Scriber or marker for disks (thin);
- clamps wide;

Materials:
- Sealant;
- Glue for rubber No. 88;
- Rubber sheet, 2mm thick;
- Liquid nails or similar material;
- Felt or material similar in structure, 15-20mm thick;
- Epoxy adhesive;

Fixing and installation elements:
- Wood screws, countersunk;
- Hardware, for fastening the speaker terminal block;
- Terminal block, PVC pipes of the desired diameter (phase inverters);

Well, checking the availability of everything necessary, I proceeded to mark the parts of the case and cut out the holes for the terminal block.

Cutting out the front panel, cut out the hole of the upper bass reflex in it.

The upper bass reflex is less fortunate to purchase a branded one.


Next, cut a hole for the lower bass reflex

In parallel, you cut out the side walls and the bottom, after which we plant them on glue and tighten them with clamps on a flat surface. While drying, continue. With an electric milling cutter and a milling cutter, we choose circular recesses for the flanges of the phase inverters.


Since the lower bass reflex is not factory, I had to make a ring of black plastic and stick it on an epoxy adhesive with a circular ledge.

The back wall is removable as planned. Having previously cut the rubber seal in size, we glue it on the back wall, from the inside, 88 glue.

After the side walls and the bottom have dried, we glue the partition with a pre-cut hole for installing the speaker.

At all angles, inside the structure we glue the bar 20 * 20mm, fixing additionally with screws. Outside the case, we mark the countersunk screws secretly, drill holes with a diameter of 2 mm, milling and milling cutters at 45 degrees make the countersunk screws.


We paste branded and PVC phase inverters into the front wall, after which we put damping material on them and coat the joint with sealant.


We put on the glue and screws the front wall of the subwoofer.


We install the top cover of the case on glue and screws. We coat all internal joints at the corners with sealant. The rear wall was mounted on M5 bolts and mortise nuts on the inside of the furniture nuts.

All walls, upper and lower chamber of the subwoofer are glued with felt.

We install a speaker, under which a rubber ring was previously cut out and glued. We make the wiring of the terminal block and speaker. Screw the back cover of the case.

It is advisable to make legs to the body. I made wooden in the shape of a semicircle and stuck to them rubber legs from the accessories for doors - chippers.

This is what I did outwardly.

In conclusion, I will say that I really liked the sound, the bass is deep, clear and at the same time soft.

File: chertezh.rar [175.79 Kb] (downloads: 349)
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4 commentary
Personally, I do not understand anything about subwoofers, sound amplifiers, etc. And his son is already a year old, as a mania for such things, amplifiers, speakers, speakers. She showed the article, her eyes lit up, she had already printed it and now she was collecting the necessary parts for the manufacture. The benefit is now the holidays, summer, there is the opportunity and time to make such a subwoofer with your own hands.
No matter how you name the invention, not everyone can build a subwoofer from a table. Thank you for sharing our best practices. I had to see the subwoofers open, I do not remember the felt there. And now, reading a detailed description, I understand that the softness of the bass just depends on the gluing of the walls with felt, it will absorb excessively sharp sounds. Great job.
The author of the homemade product is a little confused in the definitions. The fact is that closed-type subwoofers are customary to “call” the simplest “speaker boxes” that do not have a bass reflex.
I really like listening to music. But it annoys me if the quality of the music is very poor, or there are some third-party noises or creaks. I also made a subwoofer myself earlier, but only according to other drawings. Everything turned out very badly in terms of sound. There was no such saturated bass as we would like. I really liked these drawings and the idea of ​​the subwoofer.The other day I will do too. Thanks!

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