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Good LED bike light


I decided to make a front light for the bike, so far on 1W LEDs. Near / Far.

What I needed for this:
1. 1W LEDs are cold white.
2. Substrates for LEDs, radiator.
3. Wires.
4. Reflector from the old Soviet flashlight.
5. Cardboard.
6. Glue.
7. A few details from the old designer.
8. Toggle switch, button without fixing.
9. Electrical tape.
10. Thermal grease
11. Battery (I use from a broken phone, 1000 mA, 3.7 V).
12. Collimator lens.
13. Plastic mount for bicycle handlebars.


First, I made a high beam module, taking a reflector, very similar to that in the picture.
Good LED bike light

Next, you need to solder the LED on the substrate, smearing the base of the LED with thermal grease to avoid gaps between the LED and the substrate, and solder the wires:

Further, by connecting the LED, I started looking for a suitable angle for installing it in the reflector, found when I placed the LED down, it turned out a small but long-range beam of light. I glued the LED to the reflector, brought out the wires. I wanted to cut out plexiglass round to cover this whole thing, treated with cling film, pulled it tight, it turned out fine. Then he cut out walls from thick cardboard, glued the case, painted. I fastened the mount to the bottom wall, from the old designer:



Then I made a dipped beam module. Here the beginning is the same - solder the LED on the substrate, the wires. Next, glue the lens.

Then I took a radiator, applied thermal grease on one side, also a little paste on the LED substrate, and stuck it with glue. The result is such a design:

Further, behind the radiator, between the plates I screwed a couple of times and unscrewed the bolt to form a thread. I connected the high beam module to the low beam by screwing it with a bolt:


Now you need to attach the mount for the steering wheel. It is simply screwed onto the high beam module on one side. (I suspected that such fasteners, only from one end would lead to the fact that on the go the whole system would "tremble"
and the light will not be static either. But ... I tightened it tightly and everything holds pretty tight.)

This is how it looks in assembly:

The system is compact:

Now you need to make the "organs" of lighting control. I used the toggle switch for the dipped beam and the non-locked button for the high beam. I soldered the wires, then took the toggle switch and wound a bolt to it, then I attached a button to them. The resulting system is:



It holds well on the steering wheel, does not shift, does not shift. I installed the headlamp on the bike, held the wires, the battery is installed in the phone without a cover (wires are soldered to the contacts, the battery holds tight) and all this under the seat.

The phone is slightly pulled out from under the seat to take a picture. You can monitor the battery status by turning on the phone. The screen does not work, you can watch charging and turn it off. The battery is also charged through the phone. Conveniently)

More pictures:






Yes, yes, the lens is convex, not the one in the manufacturing process, I decided to try both. Stopped on a flat. Wait a little later for photos and videos on how it shines at night. Now there is no way to get led. Be careful not to miss.
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4 commentary
Author
The main thing that fulfills its function, but beautiful is not beautiful, did not go in cycles at all: winked:, because it’s self-made. In real life, more compact than in the photo)
Author
In my case, I ride a couple of hours a week for the whole summer for several hours, so I didn’t "steam" about sealing. Once in the rain, not very strong but not weak, all the rules. Who needs sealing, provide.
The light may be good ... but ... not beautiful ...)))))))
What if it rains?

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