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DIY Buleryan stove

DIY Buleryan stove

So the summer comes to an end, it is time to think about how to heat the room in the cold season. After all, this issue will become relevant literally in a month, or even less.

One of the most productive devices in terms of heating can be attributed to a furnace called Buleryan. It is a modified potbelly stove in which firewood (you can use other fuel) burn for a very long time, and the room is heated as efficiently as possible.

The main feature of such a furnace is a convection system. Around the firebox are pipes that quickly warm up when burning fuel. Further, cold air begins to displace warm air from the pipes and as a result, natural circulation occurs. Thanks to this, the room warms up quickly and as efficiently as possible. Such a stove can heat not only one room, but even a small two-story house.

If you go even further, then for such a furnace you can make a water circuit. This will allow heat to be supplied to rooms or other necessary rooms. Also in this case, the system becomes more secure, since the outer part of the furnace does not heat up to high temperatures.

The system has special adjusting mechanisms that allow the furnace to work automatically in two modes. First, the furnace warms up to the required temperature, and then it enters the combustion support mode, while the fuel burns slowly and the furnace only maintains the desired temperature. Such a furnace can burn on one load of fuel for up to 12 hours.

The stove also differs from ordinary bourgeois in that it burns wood gas, that is, solid fuel first turns into a gaseous state, and then burns in a separate chamber. Thanks to this, an efficiency of up to 80% is achieved.

You can clearly see how the oven works, you can see on the video:


Materials and tools for homemade:

- metal pipes with an outer diameter of about 50-60 mm;
- sheet metal (thickness 4-6 mm);
- welding;
- a tool for cutting metal;
- pipe bender;
- tap to remove condensate;
- a piece of pipe with a diameter of 350 mm;
- asbestos cord;
- materials for the manufacture of dampers, legs and other things;
- a standard set of tools.

The manufacturing process of Buleryan:

Step one. Device diagram
Before proceeding with the assembly of the furnace, you need to study and understand the scheme of its operation, since improvisation will not work out too much here. The design is all-metal, around the firebox there are curved pipes for circulation and heating of air. Also important is the arrangement of the furnace, as well as the systems for regulating and controlling combustion.

In order for the stove to work as efficiently as possible, the chimney should be insulated. Mineral wool is suitable for these purposes, its thickness should not be less than 3 mm.

Even in the system there should be a blow through which combustion air will enter the furnace. It is possible to organize an ashpit, but it is not particularly needed, since very little waste is generated during slow burning of waste.

Even to increase the efficiency of the furnace, a double back wall can be made in it.

Step Two We make convector elements
Thanks to the convector, the air quickly warms up. For its manufacture, pipes of about 1.2 m length will be needed, the thickness can be different, the thicker the pipe, the more air per unit of time can warm the furnace. Pipes need to be bent using a pipe bender with a radius of 225 mm. then they are staggered.

Step Three Device for removing moisture and smoke
Condensation may accumulate in the oven. To remove them, you need to install a special crane. This device has a T-shape, when you open the faucet, smoke rises up, and moisture flows down. Since the draft will deteriorate when the crane is opened, it must be used only for its intended purpose.

Step Four Chimney damper and blower
In order to be able to regulate traction, a special shutter is provided in the system, which is made of a steel plate.

For the blower, you also need to make a damper so that you can control the air supply. In order for the shutters to be rigidly fixed in the required positions, springs are installed on their handles.

Step Five Buleryan's front door
This is the most difficult process of creating a furnace. The front door should be closed as tight as possible, that is, with a minimum clearance. The denser the door closes the stove, the more efficiently Buleryan works.

From a part of a large-diameter pipe, it will be necessary to cut two rings, nor should they enter one another almost tightly. For these purposes, you need to cut two pieces of pipe with a length of 40 mm and a diameter of 350 mm. Next, one segment must be cut and expanded. Well, then the front part of the stove is made, a smaller diameter ring is used here.

The second ring is necessary when mounting the door. Its author welds to a circle of sheet steel.

Next, another ring is welded to the door, in diameter it should be slightly smaller than that which is welded to the front side of the furnace. A gap forms between the two rings, an asbestos cord is laid here, it acts as a sealant. Well, then you can mount the damper.

Step Six Assembly of the frame of the stove
Now you need to return to the bent pipes again. Holes are made in the first two pipes, then tubes are installed in them, they connect convection elements to the furnace. The diameter of the tubes is only 14-15 mm, and their length is in the range of 150 mm. Thanks to these tubes, air will flow into the combustion chamber when the furnace heats up.

Next, the pipes are welded together, thereby forming a frame. You will also need to make a partition, it is made of sheet steel, its thickness should be at least 6 mm, since when the fuel burns in the furnace, a high temperature is formed.

The gaps between the pipes must be closed with sheet metal, it is welded by welding. By welding the back wall, the furnace body will be formed. For the manufacture of metal strips of the desired length and width, first you need to make cardboard templates.

Seventh step. The final stage
It is still important not to miss such a moment as the locking mechanism for the door of the stove, it consists of an eccentric and a hinge, which is located on the wall of the stove. The further the eccentric is twisted, the denser the door is adjacent to the furnace, thereby achieving maximum tightness. To make such a device, you will need to carry out milling and turning operations.

Well, now you just need to weld the hinges and hang the door on the stove. You will also need to make legs for her so that she can stand reliably.

In conclusion, we can say that it is much more difficult to assemble such an oven than an ordinary potbelly stove. However, according to many, the time and money spent here makes sense, since the furnace is convenient, economical and highly efficient.
Buleryan furnace
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9 comments
Only I do not drown him))))). Already about 15 years as I did not drown.))))
My option is exactly the same as here, only on a larger scale)))).
.... In general, I agree: I consider buleryan ONLY as a "potbelly stove." If we consider it as a stove for the home, then there are many disadvantages ...
You draw conclusions while sitting in your bell tower. Stay with your opinion. I personally do not care, your whole boiler or half. Is there gas in your village or not. How long your pipe is and what kind of wood you use to heat it ... There is an instruction manual for this boiler and there are various operating conditions. There are different uses and everyone chooses to heat this boiler with a small pipe, like an ordinary potbelly stove (which you do, apparently) and with anything (including tar wood) or use it for its intended purpose, that is, as pyrolysis. Especially now they are released by various options.
Judging by your story, this boiler is not yours, and its operation is not very familiar to you.

You are mistaken ... Half of this farm was mine, and therefore a few bulerans, too.))))). One is now there - it stands on the plot behind the shed as unnecessary .... And I drowned them myself more than once.
Firstly, the scope of use of such boilers is extensive, even water (and air too) heating of a residential building.
. So what should happen in order for a potbelly stove (albeit a high-tech) to have a residential building heated? ))))). Not otherwise, the apocalypse!))))
No, sorry. I consider buleryan ONLY as a furnace for greenhouses, workshops, hangars, and so on .... And in this consideration they have no shortcomings!
High pipe required (good traction).
A three-meter insulated glass wool was enough. .
Firewood must be very dry and hard.
Drowned by any. And pine too. At the same time, they were taken from under the snow! Everything burned perfectly. The inside is hell !! They didn’t stew with us for several months.
The length of the chocks depends on the size of the boiler, but be sure to split in half
..... And nobody told us that!))))). And therefore, they only melted it with chipped ones, and then they threw a round log! Here's how they cut it in the forest about a meter to count in warehouse meters (the requirement of forestry), and laid it. (Our stoves are a bit larger in size))))). In this case, the thickness did not matter, if only it went into the hatch.
When firing up the mandatory control, there is a flare in the "blown out". This must be taken into account when installing the boiler.
I didn’t notice, to be honest. But in any case, the meter in front of the furnace is upholstered with iron.
There is also slight smoke (smell in the air),
Our nurseries were greenhouses with rooms attached at the end. Balerian went into the room with his “muzzle” and his “body was in the greenhouse. For this reason, I think that seedlings and carbon monoxide are very harmful for seedlings. I didn’t even go there with a cigarette. When kindled, and while it was "popping up" there was smoke. But also not strong. But when it accelerated to howl, nothing of the kind was observed. By the way, in the greenhouse we built tin boxes in which he stood with lower pipes and compacted with sand.The box lay in the ground along the greenhouse and sucked air from the other end (for uniform heating, because the length of the greenhouse is 20 meters).
A large amount of ash, raking it out of the boiler is quite problematic and dusty
I would say that on the contrary, compared with a conventional stove, the proportion of ash to the loaded volume of firewood is much smaller. Cleaned once a month with continuous burning. They did it like an ordinary fireman "shufle" with a metal handle. They didn’t clean it up to clean - they loaded it into a wheelbarrow with the heat and took it out.
I repeat again! I can’t imagine why use it for living quarters !!! Now even the remote villages are almost all gasified. And where there is no gas, everyone uses solid fuel gas-generating modern boilers. Mostly on pills. But there are wood. They are much more convenient for central heating ....
Moreover, now it is easier to buy pellets than to prepare firewood. Well this is not the same as before - I went to the forest and cut it. Now you need to sign up for forestry, take a piece of forest to clear, the forester will mark the trees that are to be demolished, they must be cut into "meters", then they will be shortened, you will pay the money - and take it out! All this can be done only in the winter. And yet, a prerequisite: to cut down and destroy on this stretch of forest all the dead wood and small shoots ....
It’s easier to buy a pellet machine for $ 200 and fill the hopper of an automatic boiler with a clean scoop once a day. And turn the thermostat knobs in every room, enjoy the comfort!))))))))
"" And it's hard for you to find them. Judging by your story, this boiler is not yours, and its operation is not very familiar to you. Firstly, the scope of use of such boilers is extensive, even water (and air too) heating of a residential building.
But I want to give some disadvantages of such a boiler (in your opinion they are not).
Is required high pipe (good traction). Firewood must be very dry and hard. The length of the chocks depends on the size of the boiler, but be sure to split in half. When firing up the mandatory control, there is a flare in the "blown out". This must be taken into account when installing the boiler. There is also a slight smoke (smell in the air), which is bad especially for small living rooms. A large amount of ash, raking it out of the boiler is quite problematic and dusty. And that's not all. The main plus, you can safely leave it for a long burning time. Somewhere like that.

And yet, the author for some reason did not say anything about the secondary chamber of his boiler. An important detail.
But I didn’t go off cons. When I worked in a large f / x, I bought such (only larger))))) for heating seedlings. They paid off very quickly - the efficiency was high, and, MOST IMPORTANT, I filled it with meter-long chipped chocks from the evening, turned the flaps, and you can’t worry until morning. That is, stokers are not needed at night - real savings, plus the absence of risks. (Well, they drink almost everything! One got drunk, froze seedlings for 5 thousand dollars (And this is only the price of seeds! And under it the greenhouses were built and remained empty.) And his house pulls a maximum of a thousand - what do you take from it ?. ..)
... In short, things are excellent !!! Not for home, of course ...
You think about what I mean. Another "Stop-Lyap". Well, solid fuel cannot turn into gaseous. My advice is you read about the operation of such boilers.
But I don’t need to read, I have had such a boiler for more than five years. And I am well aware of its pros and cons.
Author
There is a thermal decomposition of firewood or other fuel. As a result, the so-called wood gas is formed, it burns.

Read about pyrolysis gas.
: yum: "" Strongly said ?! Minimum Nobel ...

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