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Prestarting oil heating on a car

Prestarting oil heating on a car

With the advent of cold weather, many motorists are faced with such a problem as difficulties in starting the engine. The thing is that in severe frosts the oil becomes very thick and it is difficult for the starter to spin up the engine so that it starts up. The battery and starter also suffer from this. Among other things, a thick oil at engine start-up forms a very high pressure in the lubrication system, which also negatively affects the engine resource. Well, of course, the effectiveness of the lubricant in this case also decreases.

For those who like to add something to their auto, it will be useful to equip it with such a simple system for heating oil. Everything is done easily and simply, this greatly facilitates the life of the driver.

Materials and tools for finalizing a car:
- a device for vulcanizing chambers (will work as a heating element);
- wires;
- a bolt with a nut and two washers;
- a piece of gum or rubber washers;
- drill and drill (drill bit slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt);
- sealant (for installation of the pallet);
- wrenches, etc.

The installation process of the heating element:

Step one. Install the heating element

As a heating element, the author used a device with which cameras are vulcanized. Its power is 42 W, that is, the current consumption is 3.2 A. You can use another heating element similar in power. The heating element must be installed at the lowest point of the sump so that the oil warms up evenly and completely.

The author installed it under the oil damper, he entered it tightly, and there was no need to fix it additionally

Step Two Device testing
Now, to understand how long it takes to warm the oil before starting the engine, homemade can be tested. To do this, oil is poured into the pan, and the heater is connected to the battery. When the temperature is -7 degrees, the top layer of oil warmed up to 11 degrees in 10 minutes, and the bottom and middle to +4.

After 20 minutes of heating, the temperature of the upper oil layer was already +16 degrees, the lower layer +7, and the average +10.
Well, after half an hour of heating, the temperature of the upper layer of oil was +28 degrees, the average +21, and the bottom +11.

At this, the author stopped measuring, since it was already clearly visible that the oil warms up perfectly. Measurements were made in the area of ​​oil intake by an oil pump.Near the heating element, the temperature was stably kept in the region of +42 degrees.

Step Three The final stage. Connection
The heating element has two terminals, one wire must be connected to ground, that is, screwed under the nut on the pallet. It is important to make good contact, as the oil does not conduct current. To connect the second wire in the pan, you need to drill a hole. A bolt is inserted into it, on which heat-shrinkage or another tube that does not conduct current is previously put on.

Rubber washers must be placed under the cap of the bolt and nut. In other words, the bolt must not be in contact with the pallet body. Well, now, on the one hand, the second wire from the heater is screwed on, and on the other hand, you need to connect the plus from the battery.


After that, the homemade product will be ready. How to connect it further, everyone decides for himself. Ideally, everything can be connected through a special relay that would maintain the oil temperature at a certain level. Or you can just turn on the heater half an hour before starting the engine. Of course, it is desirable to connect everything through a fuse.

As for the load, it is small here, it is only 3.5 A, with such a load, a working battery can work for about two days. For more efficient heating, you can put two such heaters or one more powerful. And best of all, when the oil is warming up, the coolant is also heated at the same time. With this approach, the engine will start perfectly in cold weather even with mineral oil.
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11 comments
Good stuff! And about being late for 15-20 years, so now there are still many who go to the mineral water, to KAMAZ oil, etc. Some engines and you can’t fill in liquid oil will climb from everywhere.
Sir, do not tell my slippers with your "deep knowledge" in the repair of ICE.
Author
I have a 24D engine, a pressure reducing valve is in front of the filter, an oil sensor on the filter. When starting, the pressure at idle is 2.5-3.5 points, and after warming up at idle, one point. And this pressure measured after the valve ...



Quote: Dvulikiy
shitty you dismantled ZMZ-402

You do not seem to have disassembled it at all if you are utter nonsense about the pressure reducing valve.
He, this valve, is installed in the oil pump housing. And it has nothing to do with the filter.
Oil from the pump goes into the filter housing. And further into the oil channel. It is at the output of the filter that 2 sensors are installed - a sensor for a warning lamp for emergency oil pressure and a sensor for an arrow pointer. These sensors monitor the oil pressure in the oil channel.
But inside the oil filter is installed bypass valve. It opens in case of severe contamination of the filter element, so that the engine does not remain without oil and in case of thickening of the oil from a low temperature, so as not to break the filter element.
Quote: Dvulikiy
In short, learn the materiel.

And this is for you ZMZ-402 section
Sir, you’ve succumbed to ZMZ-402, ONCE AGAIN I explain to you such a moment, there is such a thing in the lubrication system called the REDUCTION VALVE, whose task is to ADJUST the oil pressure in the lubrication system, or rather, to DO the pressure exceed certain limits. And this same pressure reducing valve is placed just BEFORE the main oil channel from which, as you correctly noticed, the main bearings are fed, and the pressure sensor is placed either just in front of the filter or more precisely at the filter inlet at the filter inlet. And from here it turns out that on the “panel” the pressure scales, but in the system it is stupidly absent.In other words, the engine rubs dry. In short, learn the materiel.
A good idea, time-tested, but it’s been 15-20 years late. It was relevant for mineral oils. Now, when using synthetics, the need for such heating has disappeared. Car owners from the northern regions use either electric or autonomous coolant heaters.
Author
The oil pump grabs the oil from the sump, drives it through the oil filter, and then the oil goes to the main bearings of the HF, as well as to the camshaft and to the top of the head to the shaft with rocker arms. This is an example of the Volgov engine, which I disassembled by bolts and gadgets.

Oil "climbs out" through the plain bearings and flows back into the sump. The more gaps here, the lower the pressure and the more deadly the motor, but this is not about that.

Those. in the oil pressure system is practically NO.


The pressure in the oil lines of a cold engine is huge! Because the oil has nowhere to go, it is too thick and cannot leak out through the bearings.
Judging by your statements, you don’t understand how this whole system functions.

And the fact that the sensor shows increased pressure is a mistake by the designers who install the pressure sensor in front of the pressure reducing valve.

The pressure sensor always stands in front of the main oil line, otherwise it makes no sense.

DO NOT OVERHEAT, but I agree that the temperature will be at the upper limit, BUT within the WORKING range.

Overheat right up to the wedge, both 4T and 2T, but if you stand still and turn the motor. When driving at a speed, the radiator is blown by oncoming air and the engine is cooled. Or have you never overheated motors when driving on a bad road in hot weather?
But a chainsaw or trimmer does not have such a blower at all, the built-in propeller can only cool to medium revolutions, at high temperatures it grows faster than cooling. Therefore, at maximum speeds, such equipment work intermittently. It can be 5-10 minutes, then an inevitable wedge. A super ideal motor with a super correct mixture and an ideal piston can last 15-20 minutes, but it will overheat anyway, and rarely is a vehicle in this state.
Is this how high oil pressure impairs lubrication?
Sir, read carefully what I wrote, and I wrote the following:
And the fact that the sensor shows increased pressure is a mistake by the designers who install the pressure sensor in front of the pressure reducing valve.
. Those. in the oil pressure system is practically NO.
Yes, on Moskvich you tighten the bolt on the filter and the pressure increases.
Author
High pressure as well as low pressure is poor oil circulation. Pressure should be normal.

There is also a frequent joke when buying a used car. Look, they say, what pressure I have! And it’s high because the oil channels are already clogged somewhere xaxa Well, or solid oil is poured instead of oil.
“In addition, when the engine is started, thick oil forms a very high pressure in the lubrication system, which also negatively affects the engine resource. Well, of course, the lubrication efficiency also decreases in this case.”
How is it that from an increase in oil pressure, the lubrication efficiency of the engine is reduced? In fact, as practice shows, the engine is covered just the same with a REDUCED oil pressure.
And all Malomalsky competent drivers and car mechanics and other mechanics serving ICEs know that during cold start the engine experiences oil starvation, becausethe oil pump is not able to push thick oil into the lubricating engine mechanisms. And the fact that the sensor shows increased pressure is a mistake by the designers who install the pressure sensor in front of the pressure reducing valve.

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