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Glued cutting board for the kitchen

Glued cutting board for the kitchen

Nowadays, a cutting board has long ceased to be a simple tool. Today it is a full-fledged element of decor in the kitchen and should correspond to its rank.

Both amateur and professional kitchens use cutting boards of two types: from wood and from different types of plastic. At first glance, a plastic board may seem much more practical than a wooden one, because it is easy to clean and has a long life.

However, the first impression is misleading. A real cook, who is also in love with his profession, will certainly choose a wooden board and take care of it carefully. What happens from this?

The fact is that any board is created, first of all, for cutting products and "works" together with a knife. A good knife is the honor and dignity of a cook and it costs a lot of money as usual. On a plastic board, the knives quickly blunt and require constant eyeliner and sharpening. But for the knife to serve as long as possible, subjecting it to frequent sharpening is not worth it.

In such a situation, a wooden board saves, which carefully takes care of the cutting blade and prevents it from becoming dull too quickly. When using such an eyeliner board, the knife is quite enough.

To be sure of the quality of the products, we decided to make a cutting board do it yourself.

The board is more decorative - the more wood species is used in its manufacture. Thus, the wood alternates, creating a multi-colored pattern of natural textures and shades, and we get a unique product, a copy of which does not exist in the world.

For such a serious attribute as a kitchen cutting board and wood species, you need to choose the appropriate - "serious": oak, maple, beech, white acacia, walnut and others in this spirit.

In addition to the fact that wood must have the necessary strength and durability during operation, it must also create a rich color gamut. This effect is achieved by using light and dark wood species, as well as reddish, reddish, and even purple wood in the manufacturing process of one product.

If you, like us, have managed to get at least a couple of boards that vary in color, you can get to work and try to make a chopping board for your own kitchen.

So for work we will need:

1. Materials:

- boards;
- carpentry glue (the author applied Titebond® III Ultimate Wood Glue).

2. Tools:

- Sander;
- clamps;
- a circular saw;
- Thicknesser (jointer);
- a brush.

Step 1: preparing the material

Pick up boards without knots and tar pockets, thoroughly dried. They should be approximately the same thickness and match the planned thickness of the finished product.

Dissolve the boards on slats of arbitrary width (from 5 to 30 mm.), Using a circular saw. The cut should be accurate enough, otherwise when bonding parts between them, gaps will form, which in our case is unacceptable.

Compose the pattern from the rails, laying them out in different sequences and alternating dark woods with light and bright ones.

Saw the prepared rails into elements of the desired length and carefully grind the joints. You can do this by resorting to a grinder, but we would advise you to grind it manually so as not to remove the excess, thus provoking gaps during further gluing.

Step 2: gluing elements

To glue the battens, use wood glue and a brush. Thoroughly flush the joints and connect the rails in the order you choose. Clamp the board with clamps in three places, and place a load on top of a sheet of plywood or similar material so that the product does not bend.


Leave the workpiece to dry for 24 hours and continue to the next step.

Step 3: forming a board

All elements are reliably interconnected and you can begin to form the finished product.

To do this, the surface of the workpiece must be processed with a surface gage or jointer.

The edges are usually cut with a miter saw, but if this is not possible, mark and cut off the excess with the usual hand saw in a tree.

Step 4: Finishing

Sand the surface of the cutting board with a grinder or manually. In any case, follow the golden rule, and first use coarse-grained sandpaper and only then fine-grained to give the surface the necessary smoothness.

In the same way, carefully grind the end parts.

Start surface treatment with oil. Use linseed oil for these purposes, since this option is the safest of a number of similar ones. Apply it evenly with a brush, allow to soak and repeat the procedure. Leave for a day in a warm, ventilated area so that both planes remain open for drying.

Flaxseed oil will give the board a noble matte shine and partially protect it from getting wet during cooking and washing.

Kitchen cutting board ready and it, unlike plastic, will require care from you.

First, sand the board from time to time with fine emery paper, removing bumps.

Secondly, after each grinding, re-treat it with linseed oil.

Thirdly, never leave the board dirty for a long time, and also make sure that nothing prevents it from drying after the next wash.

Finally, do not use the same cutting board to process meat, fish and all other products.

If you plan to use the board as a tray, screw the decorative handles around the edges. We did just that.



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12 comments
Quote: Dmitrij
Joiner's glue is divided into the following types:

Mezdrovy.
Fishy.
Bone.
Casein.
PVA.

They were called that; PVA - pva, casein - casein, bone - carpentry, fish - fish, ...
Quote: Masha
No, I'm certainly not an expert on types .... and not even an advanced carpenter,

blush Here it is desirable to put an end to this phrase, especially after such ingenious conclusions: -
"." Something reminiscent of the Bronze Age.
Sorry for the modesty.
On a plastic board, the knives are dull quickly
Not only this, plastic also has a bad feature: its microparticles cut / chopped with a knife can get into food, and this is much worse than wood particles.
Pick up boards without knots and tar pockets
Cutting boards from coniferous wood do not.
Joiner's glue is divided into the following types:

Mezdrovy.
Fishy.
Bone.
Casein.
PVA.
Water resistant.

Water resistant carpentry component is a private product. To prepare it, the following ingredients are required:

freshly curdled milk or cottage cheese;
slaked lime;

These components must be mixed so that as a result a dense homogeneous mass is obtained.

Another recipe involves the presence of wood glue, water and drying oil in such proportions:

joiner's glue - one hundred grams;
water - two hundred and fifty grams;
drying oil - thirty-five grams;

Before use, you need to warm up.
Author
Quote: To Delusam
"."
Joiner glue is called (bone glue). Judging by the appearance (glue), he is. The bottom line is that he is afraid of dampness and is not suitable for this product.

Do not you think that to generalize the concept of "wood glue" and "bone glue" in our time is a little incorrect? No, I’m certainly not an expert on the types and types of glue and not even an advanced carpenter, but it’s the same as in the times of the Bronze Age to say that only bronze can be metal.

In my humble opinion, carpentry glue is the glue that is used in the manufacture of carpentry. And if it is a polymer - great. So, the time has come when carpentry glue is no longer afraid of moisture. smile
Here is a box of this type (example).
Quote: pogranec
"Joiner's glue" is a generalized concept, since it is made from different materials. It can be fish, sturgeon (we will talk about the difference between fish and sturgeon glues today), mezdrovy, glutinous or bone ... If a properly prepared adhesive is used to glue the wooden parts, then they can be separated only by tearing " meat "piece of wood. ..... The undoubted advantage of this adhesive material is its water resistance ......

Again the link to the Internet, this is the opinion of Alexei Kaverau. He writes there: - "If the cooked product has not been used in full, then in hardened form it can be used
repeatedly.
"
Joiner's glue, bone !!! Fish is also carpentry, but it was called "fish carpentry glue" was used a little (as they say, for lack of fish and cancer) .. Previously, there was only bone glue (the main glue of the carpenter) in the form of tiles 1-1.5 cm thick, like chocolate bars. It has an unpleasant odor (due to the basics of manufacture, bone), a fairly strong "glue", dark in appearance.
But furniture or products made with wood glue are afraid of moisture. Strength is broken.
Such glue (bone) is used for the manufacture of various crafts with straw trim. These are various frames for a photo, casket, etc. Beautiful things turned out. I can do it personally. So with carpentry glue is familiar not by hearsay, but even more so the opinion of the Internet. For this reason, I do not understand the statement of Alexander K. about its water resistance, rather, he mixed it up with casein glue.
Which appeared later and was made from milk.
One of the photos shows a bottle of glue called Titebond® III Ultimate Wood Glue
You can read about it.

The article corrected.
"Joiner's glue" is a generalized concept, since it is made from different materials. It can be fish, sturgeon (we will talk about the difference between fish and sturgeon glues today), mezdrovy, glutinous or bone ... If a properly prepared adhesive is used to glue the wooden parts, then they can be separated only by tearing " meat "piece of wood. ..... The undoubted advantage of this adhesive material is its water resistance ......
Where there is (in the photo) a plane, the glue is dark. And in the photo where it bends, white (well, as always). But wood glue is bone. Yes, and the author himself claims carpentry. Only a dry tree glues, say yourself that you "cooked" it on the water. And what prevents the water from softening it again?
Bone is afraid of dampness? (I’m not saying anything. I’m not just doing this and therefore am surprised).
... Maybe we are talking about different glues? (I'm not special at this). But before, I used carpentry bone glue, which is in the form of solid pieces. It must be heated in a jar "in a water bath" and glued with this hot melt. Holds tight - the tree will break nearby, but not at the seam ... Are you talking about this?
... Now, due to ease of use, I use PVAD for wood. Judging by the appearance, I would say that the dispersion of PVA in the photo. Bone - a transparent brown viscous substance. And this one is white, just like a dispersion of PVA.
"."
Joiner glue is called (bone glue). Judging by the appearance (glue), he is. The bottom line is that he is afraid of dampness and is not suitable for this product.

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