Good day to all forum participants! This is my first topic, so do not judge strictly.
So about Minik:
Engine from the Ant. Its technical data:
Producer: Tula Machine-Building Plant
Type: gasoline
Volume: 199 cm3
Maximum power: 11 [1] hp, at 5200 rpm
Cylinders: 1
Piston stroke: 66 mm
Bore: 62 mm
Compression ratio: 7.5
Power system: K36G carburetor
Cooling: air, forced
Timing (number of ticks): 2
Recommended fuel: A-76 gasoline mixture with M6 / 3-10G / 1 engine oil (in winter) or M8V (in summer)
Clutch: multi-plate, oil bath
Transmission: 4-speed manual
Front: from Zaporozhets, trimmed by 200mm, the steering column from it.
Rear suspension: "native" with Ant, with some modifications.
Suspension "mode": fully independent if necessary. Shock absorbers are provided on the rear suspension, which are installed if you need to ride on it on the roads.
Rear gear: full-time from Ant or Disabled, I don’t know for sure
It has 2 gears - forward and backward, also, due to necessity, made it possible to activate the Neutral gear by cutting a groove on the shaft where the fork moves, emery: D The differential is constantly working in it, without the possibility of blocking (which is bad for work in the garden )Frame: home-made - two channels are laid at the base in parallel and along the entire Minik.
Management: everything is like in a full-fledged car, made three pedals for gas, brake and clutch. Gear shifting is carried out using the lever, and accordingly the steering wheel, I don’t know why, it only has the Volkswagen icon on it.
Brakes: drum type, the main rear, but in the front wheels everything is in place, you only need to attach the cables, and everyone will brake.
Saddle: from a Cesette motorcycle: cool:
Hydraulics: the most interesting, and probably the unexpected device on this device: glasses:.
Hydraulic pump: NSh-10 from some kind of electric lift, is driven by a chain gear taken from an IZ motorcycle, a corresponding sprocket has been welded onto it, which is easily removed, which will not complicate the repair of this unit.
Distributor: standard, from the T-25 tractor, two levers, operating modes-raising, lowering the HZ and floating mode.
Hydraulic tank: homemade, the base is from an old fire extinguisher. It is small, but for now it’s enough, if you need more, we’ll come up with something: idea:
Hydraulic cylinder: I don’t know why, but the trick is that we bought it in a household store for 18 UAH: O good condition, no complaints.
Hitch: completely home-made, only the stretchers were ready (well, or whatever)
).Hydraulics works fine, if you put something under the hitch and lower it, then Minik raises himself almost at idle speed of the engine, it does not matter if someone sits or not.
Electrical equipment: as standard, the engine is equipped with a 12V starter-generator, but for some reason my grandfather put Magneto on the engine (by the way about grandfather, I removed all the parts from Ant from his unfinished homemade, while it was not in the village: rofl :), I already thought that the generator was not working, but checked, and realized that I was wrong. With the engine running, the generator itself is excited and provides energy to power consumers, all that is needed is a little more idle, and everything works.
Dashboard: a brake light from a trailer, simple and tasteful. Plus good lighting from two 5W marker lamps.
Dimensions, turns: from a tractor. At the back, the role of the side light is played by a fog lamp, into which a 5W bulb is inserted.
Headlights: also from a tractor, cheap, plastic, Chinese, but still shine, and pretty good. It is possible to turn on both the main and dipped beam on both headlights - the generator pulls.
Now I will talk about the node between the engine and the rear gear:
As can be seen from the photo, such a solution was necessary to solve three problems:
1. Reduce the speed of movement of this unit.
2. Provide connectivity NS. 3. The mismatch of the sprockets on the engine and gearbox to put the whole chain.
All of the above was decided in this way: first we made two bearing blocks that could be fixed to the frame. Then we took a solid shaft (18 or 20 mm f), on which two truncated “fourth” ILs were put on, so that it was possible to select stars, and between them just an asterisk was placed on 21 teeth from the same motorcycle, to ensure the operation of the hydraulic pump. All these details were boiled. The width between the extreme asterisks was carefully calculated, sometimes with errors, sometimes without, in general, it turned out. Now we have a fairly large selection of stars, although everything is already selected and works fine. True, the asterisk does not change on NS; it is scalded with the “fourths”, but selection is not needed here. First, from this block to the rear gearbox there was a narrow chain (from Ant) but it vomited constantly, and then it was decided to replace this chain with IZhevskaya, accordingly it was necessary to find an asterisk on the rear gearbox, they found it, welded it with the right middle under the splines on the gearbox, but it was noticeably larger than the previous one, therefore, due to the design features, I had to make a "sloth." After this refinement, the chains no longer broke and it became even slower to drive, which is buzzing.
But not everything was as good as it seemed - more and more the knot that had bothered us from the very beginning was becoming unusable. This is the rear axles! :(
Everything was done so that the half shaft should be “curved”, for this it was decided to use two crosses from the steering from the MTZ to the half shaft, this is also necessary for depreciation of the wheels, which was immediately provided for when designing the apparatus. As a result, 4 completely new crosses were bought, which were bought at the store, and immediately delivered. Two of them simply burst, and my father cooked them in order to understand the cause of the breakdown, and in the hopes that they would work. to them we found 2 more Soviet-made crosses. They set the result is the same! In total, 6 crosses were worn out :( It was decided to put the universal joints from Moskvich there, or something similar. But for now, these are plans that will be implemented somewhere after 2 months, since I am at school, far from home.
To be continued ... Here is a video here everything is described in detail!