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Question on the repair of LED spotlights.

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Hello. I'll start in order. We do not sell diodes for spotlights anywhere. Therefore, in state organizations where they are used, they are simply replaced. I have a familiar electrician on the "collective farm" (SEC), where spotlights are used on a farm. When they burn out, as I wrote, they are simply replaced. He brought me several burned out different power. I found the voltage at the output from the driver, so I wrote out diodes with Ali. With decimal problems did not arise - after replacement they earned.

I changed the diode in the thirty - it burns, but blinks with an amplitude of about one second. There are three spotlights and three diodes - the effect is the same for everyone, the “castling” effect did not.

Thought of a "defective party." (it is unlikely that the driver is broken in three. Yes, and there is voltage)
I hung a ten-diode diode in series with resistors - it behaves the same. Blinks.
Unfortunately, the ten-repaired repaired already hang where they should, so I can’t put thirty there and see what happens, (I’m chore))))

I tried to hang a conductor at 1000 mF in parallel (the only one was at hand). Decimal began to blink very smoothly, it seems that there would still be a thousand - and it would burn without blinking (but not at hand.

I changed the diode to the "native" thirty, also with a conder - it blinks like it blinked, only barely glows. I was even scared that the Conder had not planted the wrong polarity - but no, that's right.

In short, what we have:

Driver (written 40 V, 900 mA)

1. The diode (the Chinese assured that a drop of 32V, a current of 800-1000mA) blinks sharply. With a capacitor of 100 mF, it blinks with the same amplitude, barely glowing.

2. A 10 W diode (the Chinese assured that a drop of 12 V, a current of 300 mA) with a resistance blinks the same. With a capacitor blinks smoothly, the glow does not change.

What's the matter???
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23 commentary
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There was the same problem with a 20 watt spotlight - blinked after replacing the matrix. I installed the http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-DC-12V-24V-to-DC-Constant-Current-LED-Driver-8W-10W- block after the driver
12W-15W-18W-20W-30W-50W- / 262887197132? Var = & hash = item3d354c49cc: m: m8yVncLkuZXz9q
CFwpTOv5g
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Do it yourself on the LM 317
Author +1
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Well, that’s what I had in mind, I tried to convey it in a "dilettantic language." Like, I thought that in a "30-tivat COBe" maybe, if roughly, 10 chips of 3, and maybe thirty one at a time ...

Do not judge strictly, if you say something wrong - I’ve just "grabbed the tops". Therefore, I do not write or criticize articles on this subject ....
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Perhaps not a diode with a higher internal resistance, but a matrix withABOUTwith the most number of LEDs connected in series. If the failed lights are preserved, you can try to pick out the fill from them.
Author +1
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But can not the "small chest open easier" ??? Maybe this is not a malfunction at all? Simply, our respected Chinese manufacturers of high-quality goods often put everything in their hands in one package. At the same time, anything will be written on the case!)))) Maybe in the old pair “diode-driver” a diode with a higher internal resistance participated, and it was “under it” that the “driver” was selected ... (How long does it work, as you know, usually few people care)))).
Therefore, all three behave identically ...
I called an electrician. He has one more from the same party. We’ll check tomorrow ...
+2
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It is also necessary to check whether there are any flux residues left on the driver boards, since three pieces behave the same. If there was only one driver, it would be necessary to check the low-resistance resistor at the source of the power switch, but in three pieces at the same time such a failure is extremely unlikely.
+1
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The output zener diode will most likely overload the driver by current. Without seeing the circuit, it’s hard to say for sure, but maybe try to look for a byak in the feedback circuit.
Author +2
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Yes, here I have another "mechanism" worked: they write on non-Russian condors using "mu". The letter "k" is not there. So I wrote in the Russian layout as well approximately))). At that moment, I did not focus on writing ...
PS. Himself recently neighing from his notes. Writing down the numbers at the construction site, so as not to forget, I designated cubic meters with the abbreviation "cbm."))))). Here's how "cubic meters" spoke out to himself, and "cut" ...))))))))
Author +1
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I connected 2 diodes in parallel - the effect is about the same: both blink, but burn at the same time in full heat. Planted them sequentially - op-pa, burn !!!
"Cant" here by voltage, not by current. When connected in series LON-60 (Thank you, Pohmelev for the "tip")))), the diode is lit almost normally, and the lamp is a third of the glow. I finally managed to measure it (Before that, when I was mogging, the digital tester’s interface did not allow it) - 127 Volts total (!!!!), on the diode, as the Chinese promised, the drop is somewhere around 35-38.
By the way, some of these "drivers" are tricky - no load if you measure voltage with a digital cartoon, in general, hell knows what they show with dots after each character ....
(Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
Question: how to reduce the pressure to 30-40? Maybe there is some ready-made zener diode? I don’t want to shovel mountains of information for the sake of a “one-time case”. Tell me, please))))
+1
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You can try to connect the LON parallel to the LED, starting with low-power ones. If the source was underloaded, then it can help.
+1
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Quote: Valery
Well, I have nothing here, akramya axes! : smirk: Ivan, how do I load a source with axes? : smirk: Ahhh !!! I know !!! Suspend first one ax, and then simultaneously apply the others to it, thereby reducing resistance and increasing current !!!
Are there incandescent lamps? LON resistance depending on the applied voltage can be viewed.
+1
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Quote: Valery
I am "kind" .... Just a joke ...
So am I kindly. ;) 1 mF = 1000 μF. This is the same as writing ohms instead of ohms.
Author +1
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That's what bothers me about all this, that THREE of them! And everyone behaves the same with the new diodes! It is unlikely that in all the same malfunction was formed at the same time. And he asked the electrician who “drove them” - they did not blink on the farm. They just stopped burning at different times with an interval of a week. When disassembling, I saw obvious signs of overheating of the diodes - the selicon coating on them was "warped" by spots. (The area of ​​“thirty” is quite large. So far, only one has been dismantled (it was “suspended” in the rest). Under it, thermal paste is a “spit” in the middle, occupying about 30 percent of the surface. And under it is not a stripped aluminum case. So, most likely, the diodes "died a natural death" in such conditions.
... I'll try to load the "driver" with additional resistance ....
.... By the way, what do you say to this: for the experiment, parallelize several diodes.?
PS .... In time, you "more powerful" crossed out ... I did not have time Hangover ...: smirk:
P.S. And here is my "P.S." in Russian letters he will clearly be confused ... Well this is the same as my “MF” in Russian ...: flushed:

Hangovers, if anything, do not be offended, please. I am "kind" .... Just a joke ...
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
ValeryNot only the load is affected. There is still an input rectifier with a capacitor (which often dries up and does not filter 100Hz). In my case, there was 4.7 microfarad x 400v (4.7 total Carl!) You should have much more more capacity.
Author -1
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That is, if I understood correctly, blinking can be the result of a weak load? I mean, in my case, the "new" diodes lightly load the "driver"? By current? Try to throw a resistor in parallel?
0
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I purchased with AliExpress Led Driver Adapter 3 * 1W (12V). Those. to power 3 lights of 1W. Cheap and small in size. It was supposed to be used to power the LED line (economical) 12 lights LED 5730. And when I turned on, my line blinked ... I connected an older, more consuming line (30 lights). She was already shining without blinking. There is pulsed trance at the output. It is filled with pulses ... No electrolytes (C) can be clipped to the output.
Author +1
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Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev

1000 mF Conder
You didn’t mess anything up?



And then what's wrong?

Ahhh ... It got it. There are no letters "k" ....
Damn, Ivan !!! What do you have nothing to do?
Well, I kind of asked the Higher Council as an expert in electronics, and not as a teacher in Russian ...: kissing:
Author +1
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Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
flashes with an amplitude of approximately per second.
You didn’t mess anything up?

Confused. Not the amplitude but the period, rather. But I didn’t write an article, but I asked a question in the hope of a quick answer from knowledgeable people. And in colloquial speech also not such "pearls" slip through ....)))). But did you understand? Got it ...
Why did I ask this question? Because there is nothing to check neither the "driver" nor the diode. There are three pieces of one and three pieces of the other, and everyone behaves the same in different combinations. I’m not sure that either one or the other is working, and there’s nothing to check thoroughly. So doubt crept in - maybe the “reason is somewhere on the side”))))) Knowing that there are people here who are “rummaging” in electronics and having a lot of experience in it, unlike me, I expected someone if you haven’t already encountered this, then theoretically knows what’s the matter ... And since you all know about this case in the same way as I did, then why cling to words? ....
Author 0
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Well, I have nothing here, akramya axes! : smirk: Ivan, how do I load a source with axes? : smirk: Ahhh !!! I know !!! Suspend first one ax, and then simultaneously apply the others to it, thereby reducing resistance and increasing current !!! blush Did I come up with the right thing? ))))
Author +1
Reply To quote A complaint
Thank Pronin! Thanks, Cap!!! (And for some reason I thought that you are a major!: Smiley :))))
... Well, of course, if I had a suitable power source, I would check the diodes .... But as a matter of evil I didn’t have a couple of power supplies with adjustable current and voltage ... there was no "driver" (I also do not like this name) ... I'm not on these matters !!!! ... I'm more and more on carpentry! I, as you all saw, have only a lot of axes! )))): smirk: So tell me, please, how can I do this with an ax!)))) blush 
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
You can also, on the contrary, gradually load the existing driver, controlling its output parameters.
-1
Reply To quote A complaint
flashes with an amplitude of approximately per second.
You didn’t mess anything up?
1000 mF Conder
You didn’t mess anything up?
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Take a power supply (regulated preferably) for 30 ... 35V with current limitation (protection) (> 1A). Connect the LED, observing the polarity and measure the current consumption ... These Ketai "drivers" they are pulsed and depend on the current consumption. If you need to be more reliable, then you need to set a stable source with current limitation.

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