Budget version of anti-skid (as an example, VAZ 2103)

This year I faced the problem of the inability to leave the farm, as there were heavy rains in the summer and the road was washed out. Now it is under snow and ice, no one is cleaning it, and it’s very dangerous to drive out, because in some places the road goes on a slope from which you can easily swim into the hollow.

In addition to a strong drift when riding, it’s impossible to go to our mountain in the usual “basin” even because there is a turn in front of the mountain and there is no way to accelerate.

So I decided to make some kind of wheels on the hooks so that you could ride on ice and snow. First added bracelets from the chain, which is attached using a tape for screeding goods. I must say right away that these bracelets are absolutely ineffective, the car twitches, digs earth and snow underneath, but refuses to go. In addition, my ribbons quickly broke, however, it was just an experiment. Since I did not find long chains, I began to look for other options for hooks.

I stumbled upon a guy on YouTube, he installs cables instead of chains on tires. I rummaged in my the garage and found the right piece of cable, it had 6 cores, in the end they turned out to have 3 double hooks on each wheel. As I did it all, I show and tell, but I didn’t do everything quite like the author’s, with my own corrections.

[media = // www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LHrWhuV41E]

Materials and tools:
- pliers;
- copper wire (I used from the winding of the retractor starter);
- 6 pieces of steel cable (cross section up to 0.3-0.4 mm);
- a key for removing wheels and a jack.

Work process:

Step one. We prepare the cable
Such a cable can be found in a hardware store, it is not expensive. I got it for free. The thickness of the cable should be at least 0.3 and not more than 0.4 cm, if it is thicker, it may not pass between the brake drum and the disc. A narrow one will not provide good grip. As for the length, I didn’t guess how to measure it, well, it’s 60 centimeters by eye. It is needed of such a length to double-wrap the wheel around.

The cable must be aligned if it is crooked. Otherwise, when riding, it will level out and weaken.

Step Two Install the cable
The guy in the video makes only one revolution around the wheel, I decided to make two to increase strength and increase traction. He also connects the ends with the help of a knot, but my cable is thicker, it is difficult to tie it on a knot. So I connected the ends using loops.The hinges need to be squeezed well with pliers, otherwise they will burst when loaded. Around the loop is wrapped in poor wire, tests have shown that this is enough. You can use a thin steel wire, well, or other approaches.
When installing the cable, try to ensure that the crosshair is not on the disk, but on the bus, otherwise the disk may not fit on the drum. Tighten the cables well, I let them through the recesses in the tread. But on one wheel the cable was poorly tensioned and came out of them when driving, but this is not scary.

I decided to do the loops from the inside, so that all this would look more aesthetically pleasing.

Step Three Put the wheels
When I install, the disk is quite tightly located on the drum, while the cable is additionally clamped, but not so much that it transfers. You need to tighten gradually, cross to cross. If the disc does not fit, knock on the cable with a hammer in the gap between the drum and the disc.

The final stage. Test
I will say a few words about my tires. This is the so-called all-season BC-20 Rosava. But in fact, this is one name, on ice such tires generally have almost zero grip, you can ride them only in a straight line along the rolled snow. Even with overclocking downhill, they sometimes can not get out.
Before installing the cables, it was difficult for me to leave the yard. Today, when testing, I accidentally moved out of the yard into the garden, there was a rather steep hill. Of course, I skidded a little, but the wheel pretty quickly raked to the ground, and I drove out fine. Earlier, the wheel was just littering this snow, and for a long time I poured ash and worked with a shovel.

In general, I left quite easily from the yard, then the most important mountain was coming, to which I could not go without matyuki, a bag of ash and a shovel. This time I succeeded on the ropes the first time, and quite confidently. I must say right away that you don’t need to gas here, you just need to go "tight-handed", avoiding slipping. The machine behaves quite confidently.
I used to drive out, periodically pressing the gas pedal to the floor at first speed.

And most importantly, with a sharp turn, the drift disappeared! That is, the butt now does not enter into the washout, as it was before, but this is another plus to the cross. In general, I recommend everyone this design. In deep snow, of course, you won’t go up the mountain, but you can drive on a knurled road, even on ice, without any problems.

Benefits:
1. Low cost design and ease of installation
2. There are no vibrations and noises when driving on the highway, so there is no need to remove the cables
3. Pretty sturdy and reliable design, you can drive all winter
4. Improves cross-country ability, saves gasoline.
5. The system is much safer than chains, because in the event of a cable break the wheel will not jam!

6. In very heavy snow with the help of these cables you can fix larger hooks (for example, from chains)

Disadvantages:
1. It takes time to install
2. The need to remove the wheels (if you look at the VAZ Classic with stock disks)