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Winter engine heating VAZ 2107

Winter engine heating VAZ 2107

Once again, winter is on the street. I don’t know how you are, and where I live, frosts are under thirty or more. My deepest sympathy is for those who already enjoy the most from dancing with a tambourine in the morning, starting their car in the yard in the cold. But I take pleasure in the fact that .... I do not get such pleasure. Pun however. I’ll tell you why.

In the fall, when I went to the parsing, to look for the front gear for the old Niva, I bought an interesting thing from one man. The starting heater is called. She was lying among a bunch of old spare parts, and the man himself did not know what this thing was, so he gave it to me for 100 rubles.

Nothing was written on the contraption, but when I washed it, I read the inscription that "the power is 1500 watts." Inside the contraption turned out to be TEN, a ball with a spring (apparently a valve) and thermal contact 90 degrees.

I then found a beautiful picture and description of this device on the Internet. It turned out that this thing is Before the Start Heater, it comes from Tyumen, its name is Alliance and they make such things for almost all brands of passenger cars.

I decided not to postpone it for a long time, but rather to quickly install the gizmo on the car, while there was still no snow on the street, and it was about zero. Due to the fact that I got only a heater, for its installation I needed the following:

1. Actually, the heater itself, cleaned and washed
2. The pump from the Gazelle stove
3. The power supply from a broken laptop
4. Hoses for the stove a \ m Moskvich, 2 pieces of 2 m
5. Half-inch small-sized tap with external thread (dad)
6. Three fittings for a hose of 20 mm with a female thread (mother)
7. Tee 32mm - 32mm - 1 \ 2 inches
8. Worm clamps, automobile, 40, 30, 25 mm
9. 220 V wire with plug
10. Tape FUM sanitary.
11. Silicone Sealant




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In the process of installing gizmos, I had to suffer a lot. At first, I could not figure out where to get the sidebar for connecting the heater. Then he found a drain plug in the lower part of the block, under the third candle, in the form of a bolt with a head for 17.
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I unscrewed this bolt, merged antifreeze, measured it. It turned out there thread M10 X1. Picked up in the garage among all rubbish a pipe with such a thread. A tube came up for attaching a bulb holder in an old floor lamp. I sawed off the desired piece, put a hose with a hose clamp on it. I screwed the fitting on the sealant into the block directly with the hose.

Installing a tee in the cut of the upper radiator hose was much easier. The tee, fitting, sealant, clamps and FUM tape did an excellent job of this.

After assembling and checking the system, I decided to fill in the antifreeze and check how it works. Yes, it worked. But I did not like the principle of the heater itself. When you turn on the device, the antifreeze inside the contraption quickly heats up, hisses, expands, and squeezes into the radiator, and the ball valve at the bottom of this device opens and draws in a new portion of the antifreeze from the engine.

The pressure is large, the antifreeze from under the hoses squeezes out, the engine heats up for a long time (more than an hour), no circulation. I thought - I thought and put the pump here from the GAZEL stove, at 12 Volts.

With the pump it became much better, heating the engine to +20 degrees in just 10 minutes. But where to feed this pump? From the battery, in the cold, when there is already a 220V socket nearby - it's stupid, the battery has so little energy, it would be enough to scroll the starter. And then the power supply from the old laptop was added to the system, on 12V 8A. This black box is clearly visible in the next photo.

Then, after driving in the cold a couple of days, I added a small water tap, half an inch, dad-dad to the structure.

Due to the fact that the volume of the cooling system has increased and the area of ​​the heated surface, too, this whole structure is heated and takes part of the heat onto itself, which makes the stove run out of heat! Now, when we close the faucet, the antifreeze circulation in the engine and the stove goes as before, according to the old scheme and the heat is not wasted in vain. But there is a silver lining, I think that in the summer, in extreme heat, this will be useful to me.

But now everything is fine. In the evening I arrive from work, I put the car in the garage, I’m going to. I open the faucet, plug the system into a power outlet, close the garage, go home and turn off the garage switch in the lighting panel at home. In the morning I turn on the garage switch in the home guard, and while I finish my tea and get dressed, the machine is ready for work and defense! I go into the garage, pull out the plug, remove the wire, close the tap, ... looking for some.
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9 comments
250 Russian? Is that about 5 dollars ?? Are you confusing anything?
We have all the expensive parts for the Gazelle. Therefore, in the role of minibuses, they try not to take them much ... I know this pump well. Because, once at my Opel-Omega, I bent down, and I read on the forum that they put a similar electric pump from the Gazelle. I drove into a Gazovsky store, asked. It turned out - more expensive than the "opelevsky" !!! (We cost about 60 rubles on Opel. (Ours) And this is $ 30! And on the Gazelle it’s more than forty, closer to 50. Then the same topic popped up in a conversation with minibuses .. They they also wonder why the gazelle pump is so expensive !! After all, it is with gaskets !!! That is, unlike the German one, where the motor rotates the impeller through the wall with magnets, it may even leak! And the German ones are cheaper !!! Therefore, if on Gazelles who flew - put on Opel.
So I think you are not confusing anything ??? You have 5, and ours is 10 times more expensive? Really "sold" completely lost their conscience?
Guest Vladimir
I put a similar heater a couple of times on the Gazelle. Another 24 Volga homemade, without a thermostat 0.5 kW. Yes, with pumps purchased. But our pump does not cost 50 bucks, as Valery writes, but 250 rubles if the memory serves.
It was not necessary to put a tap, but a switch on the battery, so that the motor would work during movement, then there would be frying in the car.
Is the pump from the Gazelle also a waste? At us it costs 50 bucks, specified. Therefore, he bought from Opel - and a little cheaper, and, most importantly, more reliable! No oil seals! The impeller is in a separate chamber and spins through magnets ...
And I somehow didn’t see a Mercedes - they even have a heated washer reservoir ....

Firstly, that “Merce” is such a big cargo bus !!! And years he has more of your Lada!))))
Secondly, what does “even” mean? Now it’s not a big deal! Not only the Merc. Even in my old "Opel-Omega B" mirrors, seats, a washer fluid reservoir and nozzles themselves on the hood are heated.
And we have almost no Lada. Not because we Belarusians are so rich! (We will be poorer than the Russians !!!))))). Simply, for us, Lada are such foreign cars, and keeping them is not cheaper. In addition, we have very strict requirements for technical inspection, for this reason the classic Lada "left". And they don’t take almost new ones from us - there is an opinion that it is better to take a Word, Renault, or Opel ... The price is about the same ...
Author
Well, yes, of course, anyone can buy something. And I, the poor collective farmer, collected everything from the waste. Purchased only a crane with fittings and clamps .... smile smile smile

And I somehow didn’t see a Mercedes - they even have a heated washer reservoir ....
Author
First of all, thank you for your attention to my modest work.
I’ll note about the “sitters” - I have them heated, three minutes - and warm. And in the box and in the bridge, taking into account our conditions, Shell Spirax S5 ATE 75W90 synthetic oil is poured, with a pour point of -45. A simple one, for 700 rubles. per liter. Well, in the engine too, good synthetics, otherwise at -30 not cranked up.
In my case, too much depends on the reliability of the machine, and work, and children, and health. Therefore, I do not save here.
And you correctly noticed, with a “slightly warmed up” engine. Yes, more than +10 ... +15 I don’t warm it, then he himself, otherwise the ECU controller will give the wrong mixture, the car just won’t go.
Are you talking about a warm heated garage? So here you need to choose what is more important for you - the engine, or the body? In a heated garage, the body will rot mercilessly !!! And the engine can be saved like that ... And with the transmission from frost, nifiga will not happen !!!
In the morning in the home guard I turn on the garage switch, ...

Maybe then it makes sense to think about getting into a warm car in the morning with a transmission that has not frozen and warm seats, and not just with a slightly warmed engine ...
Recently, such a "stray" put a friend on an old Mercedes-407. Since the engine in it, of course, had a lot of fun, driving it in severe frosts was unrealistic, even if the diesel fuel did not freeze. He only bought the heater on Ali, and we took the electric pump from Opel-Omega. It is cheaper and more reliable. (All minibuses, who have a Gazelle, change their relatives to the Opelyovskie). (But this is ours! For us, the Gazelle is the same foreign car as Opel))))
And in the 90s from Belgium Audi-100 drove diesel, so there, besides this, there was also a heater embedded in the crankcase (warm oil) and on the fuel filter ...
... And why is it in Zhiguli? Lada something gasoline! And so it gets into any frost. Is it possible that the engine should be kept during a cold start - the oil is not synthetic there ... But the mineral water freezes ...

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