» Fixtures »Wooden do-it-yourself ladder

DIY wooden ladder


Hello everybody!
How to get to the subject, which is at an unattainable height for you? How to collect fruit from the very top of the tree or paint the house? Such questions, most likely, have visited you more than once, it was for these purposes that a special devicecalled Stepladder.

Step-ladders are, perhaps, the most popular and necessary ladders, they are used in everyday life, and in other areas of activity.
This article will describe a method of manufacturing a ladder, with a detailed photo report.

To make the stairs we need:

Materials:

- two beams 60 * 40 mm;
- beam 50 * 35 mm;
- self-tapping screws;
- paint.

Tool:

- a hacksaw for wood, or other available cutting tool;
- Sander;
- drill;
- hammer;
- ax;
- mount.


To begin with, we take two vertical bowstrings with a bar section of 60 * 40 mm, we take its length at our discretion, in this case the length was 3.6 m.

In order to make the staircase strong and the upper edge of the steps to be horizontal when tilted, we make special notches, mark out where we plan to install the steps, we take a distance between the crossbars of 30 cm. We use a beam for steps with a cross section of 50 mm, according to these sizes make markup, apply it on both sides of the bowstring. Next, note the notch depth - 15-20 mm. The resulting marks are interconnected by an oblique line, as shown in the photo.

Then, using a sharp ax and a hammer, we remove a part of the wood at an angle, but before doing this, use a hacksaw to make a recess along the marked line, so that the beam does not split in an unnecessary place for us.

We use an ax as a planer, aligning the notch angle.

In a similar way, we make nicks on both strings.

Next, using a grinding machine, we process the surface of the beam.

It is necessary to carefully align the notches made by us.

Now with the help of paint we paint the inside of the nicks. Set them aside until dry.

Next, we take a bar with a cross section of 50 * 35 mm for the steps, it needs to be slightly modified. We take a plane and with it we remove the chamfer. We do the same operation on each bar.

Then you need to make one of the sides of the bars basic, for this we take an angular ruler and draw a markup with a pencil.

When everything is ready, with the help of a cutting tool we saw off all uneven edges, after that we process the surface with a grinder, we smooth the ends.

Now you can proceed to the manufacture of the upper and lower rungs of the stairs. In order to distinguish the top and bottom of the stairs, it needs to be done with a slight narrowing. The top should be shorter than the bottom. We take the width of the stairs 65 cm from the bottom and 55 from the top. Sizes can be taken by others at your discretion. Using tape measure the length.

With the help of a square, we mark up in the place where the future step will be cut.

We start the cut.

When the steps are ready, we process the ends with a grinding machine.

Next, at the edges of the beam we find the center, for this we need to deviate from each of the edges by half the thickness of the bowstring (20 mm).

Then, on the marked centers, we make holes for the screws. The self-tapping screw should pass freely into this hole.

We make a countersink using a larger drill bit for this.

Now set the upper and lower crossbeams by placing and aligning them in the notch. The ends of the steps are made flush with the side parts of the bowstring. After that, through the existing holes in the steps we make a mark of the place where you will need to drill a hole. They are needed so that the screws when twisting do not split the wood. The holes were made with a drill 0.2-0.3 less than the thickness of the screws.


Now you can fix the step in its place, but before that you should paint the pressure side of the crossbar.


When the necessary dimensions are set for the stairs, add the missing steps, for this we lay out the prepared bars in the notches, exposing the base ends flush with the side parts of the bowstring.

We mark the length necessary for us on the back of the bowstring, draw lines using an angled ruler, then cut off the excess parts, the ends of the steps need to be sanded. We install the steps in the same way as the first two. There should be 11 steps in total.


Now let's move on to painting the product. In order for the paint not to clog the slots of the head of the self-tapping screw, they need to be slightly unscrewed. We make painting. When everything is ready, screw the screws back.

If after when you applied the paint, you notice that in some places the wood began to shine through, then it is worth applying another layer. When the paint is completely dry, this ladder is ready for use.

The article is finished, thank you all for your attention.
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16 comments
Good !!! 6 meters, it costs decent money.

I bought Alumet 5213 from us for about $ 85. And in Russia it is most likely even cheaper - the production is Russian. And despite the low price, quality is very acceptable! Very stable, quite strong.
In this case, the weight of the “applicant” must also be taken into account ...

It is designed for 150 kg !!! Actually, I think, and will withstand more - they are always reinsured during certification ...
With a table - a great idea: two birds with one stone at once!
Quote: To Delusam
Quote: Aport95
Ladder attached below is slightly wider than above (important)

So their normal masters do it all, what are you talking about?
Quote: Aport95
And finally - brackets of tin on each crossbar that it is "gently" covered, pressed to the beams, and the bolts do not give a reason to break out!

This may not be an extra mount, but not the original one. I went a lot of "my own" stairs, I never used any pieces of iron, just like I didn’t “spoil” the main bars. Under each step I install an additional emphasis, a wooden block (in the form of a rectangular triangle) or just a metal corner (less often).The advantage of this design is that the main bars are not weakened (cuts) and can be made more lightweight.

P \ C. I forgot to add, at the top of the stairs, it is advisable to install a supporting beam.



Here I added a photo, whose stairs are about ten years old. One 3m, another about 6. I transfer one. Pay attention to the upper support in the form of a table. This design allows you to move the canvas of the ladder from the wall (which gives a clear advantage when working), and also use the table for the location of the tool. Stops for steps are also clearly visible. The main bars do not loosen.
Quote: Valery
And I advise you all to do exactly the same! Forget about the heavy wooden stairs ....

I agree with you by 50%.
1. Not everyone has the means to buy a large staircase.
2. Good !!! 6 meters, it costs decent money.
3. In this case, the weight of the "applicant" must also be taken into account ....
Step-ladders in the house are certainly better aluminum.
The severity of the wooden staircase depends on the craftsman. Yes, and you drag it not often.
At one time, too, had to make stairs ....
About this I will say that they did it .... too "meticulously".))) IMHO.
I was a little fun. I did NOT stab the stairs, I used to fix them with slate nails once (when there were no screws) then 4.8mm screws (I'm talking about the thickness). I drilled it under them ..... with such a drill, "so that it would be normal" .... That was precisely of this diameter I adhered to ....))))))). The bottom did wider, from above, as it was rightly noted here - the supporting beam ...
Then he painted everything ..... if he painted ...)))) What for the screws is it worried? Steps to change ??? So they are all the same! If they break already - THE LADDER IS CHANGED !! ))))). And if it is shaken, then all the same, with the second screw on the side ....

But all this is in the past !! ... This was before the aluminum stairs appeared !!!
Well, really, DO NOT DO BETTER !!! Do not even try!
When this year one easily laid out the 6-meter “Alyumet”, which weighs a little more than six kg, with a shudder of heart remembered his first construction site when he invited the godfather so that he could barely bring together, straining with all his might a six-meter wooden “monster”, and then gently climbed it, not very stomping, because it resonates and sways .....))))
In short ... I rented wooden ones, I put one “stationary” in the attic in the barn, and I bought a large two-section for construction work (it is done with a step ladder. Powerful, stable and light) .. And a couple of step ladders - seven-step for the house (there are high ceilings) and four-stage for the apartment ...
(In the apartment, she “lives” behind the refrigerator. She took it out with one hand, shook it to decompose and reached the mezzanine, or change the light bulb.))))

And I advise you all to do exactly the same! Forget about the heavy wooden stairs ....
Even the one in the barn, I plan to throw it away and weld metal ....
Quote: Aport95
Ladder attached below is slightly wider than above (important)

So their normal masters do it all, what are you talking about?
Quote: Aport95
And finally - brackets of tin on each crossbar that it is "gently" covered, pressed to the beams, and the bolts do not give a reason to break out!

This may not be an extra mount, but not the original one. I went a lot of "my own" stairs, I never used any pieces of iron, just like I didn’t “spoil” the main bars. Under each step I install an additional emphasis, a wooden block (in the form of a rectangular triangle) or just a metal corner (less often). The advantage of this design is that the main bars are not weakened (cuts) and can be made more lightweight.

P \ C. I forgot to add, at the top of the stairs, it is advisable to install a support beam.
Author
He probably wrote this because the ladder and stepladder are the same for me.Of course, this is not entirely true (after these words, I suggest that you don’t throw stones at me, it’s also unnecessary to explain what the difference is, EXAMPLE - They put up a staircase and the ladder itself, etc.). Regardless of what I wrote the functions they perform the same, that is, they help us get to the height we need, at which we perform the necessary work. For my part, this is certainly not a completely correct omission, but what is, that is. I suggest that this is - Wooden ladder.
Somehow, the conversation went in cycles around painting heads, heads, steps and other ...
They didn’t notice - the ladder attached below was a little wider than the top (important). There is more guarantee that it will not lead to the side when you climb to the top. The lower ends of the supporting beams are squeezed at an obtuse angle, but are not left purely straight. The bottom does not slip. Crossbeams, during installation - on one side EXACTLY, and on the other the ends for washing, and not sawing on both sides. And finally - brackets of tin on each crossbar that it is "gently" covered, pressed to the beams, and the bolts do not give a reason to break out!
That's all! Do not be afraid of heights, be afraid of dullness)
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Quote: To Delusam
But the screws do not paint over in this case, and why not?

A lot of unnecessary gestures: unscrew the screws, carefully paint, wait until it dries, twist again. I do not see the point, as well as the thorough processing of the ends of the steps. And painting the stairs from above, in my opinion, does not contribute to safety.
Yet. I looked at the photos as the author cleverly measures the mysterious parameter "thickness of screws." If measured this way, then, indeed, it is necessary to drill a drill with a diameter of 0.2 ... 0.3 mm less than what he measured.

Ivan, you again do not see the essence ..)))
The man showed us that he knows what a caliper is and what he "serves" for. True, they did not teach him to measure correctly. It doesn’t matter, we will teach.
And about the screws, so why wait for the paint (when it dries)? Painted and spun. Nothing problematic, but when you paint over the slots there are more problems.
Quote: To Delusam
But the screws do not paint over in this case, and why not?

A lot of unnecessary gestures: unscrew the screws, carefully paint, wait until it dries, twist again. I do not see the point, as well as the thorough processing of the ends of the steps. And painting the stairs from above, in my opinion, does not contribute to safety.
Yet. I looked at the photos as the author cleverly measures the mysterious parameter "thickness of screws." If measured this way, then, indeed, it is necessary to drill a drill with a diameter of 0.2 ... 0.3 mm less than what he measured.
yes Well attacked like a gander. Total co-author "pinched". Give one stepladder, another metal ties ..)))
Well... dontknow
Here is the result when the next co-author does not take up his topic or we observe modern slang. Zhelezyaka - means mounting. Even if it is a bulldozer, it will write what difference (from the "sieve-sieve" series).
He wrote five words on his own and was already blundering.
But the screws do not paint over in this case, why not?
You better pay attention to the "universal" ax ..
The holes were made with a drill 0.2-0.3 less than the thickness of the screws.
An inner voice tells me that it will not hold well. I don’t know how in science, but I usually use a 2.5 drill for self-tapping screws at 4.2.
Quote: Stanislavsky
so it will be easier to twist the screws.

I do not see any difficulties with twisting the self-tapping screw with the shaded slot.
Author
Section from the article - In order for the paint not to clog the slots of the head of the self-tapping screw, they need to be slightly unscrewed. (we do this if you wish) Probably, in case you want to change the crossbar (if it suddenly breaks or rotten over time), it will be easier to twist the screws.
Mounting, mounting why is it needed ........? I also thought when I did not find the proper description.
As an option: scratching your back, or cracking someone, there might have been too many advisers, and the author decided to leave her beside him, these are just my humble guesses.
Regarding metal ties, I agree, the design would be more reliable.
Why mount?
It is not clear why you can not paint over the heads of screws.
I would, as prescribed by the normative documentation for such long stairs, make at least a couple of metal ties. And I would not paint the upper plane of the stairs.
"

.... well, to hell with her, with the stepladder ... Let me tell you better about the ladder! .... ok

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