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Do-it-yourself device for drilling a well with your own hands (shock-rope method)

Do-it-yourself device for drilling a well with your own hands (shock-rope method)

I have a house in a deep village, almost in a forest, there are problems with water. The nearest well is more than 200 m, and its depth is about 25 m. That is, until you go, while you get water from there, you don’t want anything ... And you also have to do this in the winter through the snowdrifts.

I decided to drill a well do it yourselfat least try. Our drilling costs around UAH 250 ($ 10) per meter, and since you need to drill more than 25 meters, plus paying for the road to the place, not including the pump and other equipment, it costs a little shorter, and there is still no 100% guarantees that they will drill water.

For drilling a well with my own hands, I chose the simplest (structurally) and, probably, the most ancient technology - shock rope drilling. But since I always do my own thing, I made the device fundamentally different from those on YouTube and other descriptions.

I must say that homemade I did it purely for myself and purely for the experiment, to see how it would work and so on. Of course, there is still much to be done and needed to be done that will make home-made safe, effective and not spend as much energy on drilling as I do.

Materials and tools:

1. Thick-walled steel pipe. I have a length of 114 cm and weighs 42 kg (but the length is too small, you need a meter and a half minimum). I don’t remember the exact diameter, but I chose 125 for the casing. Bear in mind that the diameter of the well during drilling will be 15 percent more than the shock pipe. The longer the pipe, the smoother the well will be.

2. A piece of strong thin-walled pipe to create a knife (best of stainless steel 1-2 mm thick)

3. Steel cable, I have 4 mm. Four is enough butt tyk, this cable is weak, it is best to take a five, it should be enough without nerves. Although the four are doing fine.

4. Steel corner or pipes (I went old bed) to create a frame.

5. Materials for the winch (I have a wheel from the cart and a piece of steel pipe).

6. Swivel for the cable (required). It would be nice with a carabiner so that the pipe can be unfastened if necessary.

7. All sorts of nuts, pieces of iron, pieces of chain, door hinges, rubber and other stuff, which everyone is sure to find in their the garage.

From the tools:
- grinder;
- welding;
- pliers, etc.

Regarding investments ... The pipe at the metal warehouse cost 8 UAH per 1 kg. It was possible to find cheaper, there was simply no time and desire to search.
Rope bought 30 m for 10 UAH each meter. I also bought a swivel. Everything else was found at home ... In short, I spent on everything no more than 1000 UAH.

Drilling machine manufacturing process:

Step one. Parts preparation and frame assembly
In general, it is customary to make a tripod for such devices, but I decided to make a two-leg. I found a metal frame from the bed and cut it diagonally. Next, cooked at the top of the corners as seen in the photo.


To strengthen the frame, I welded to the right and left side on a piece of reinforcement. In principle, this was enough with the head. For reliability, you can weld a piece of the corner to the base in front.
The frame is ready, go to the creation of a winch.

Step Two Winch
My winch turned out to be really life-threatening, since it does not have a ratchet mechanism. If you let go when raising or lowering the pipe, it can easily kill. But this does not scare me, because everyone has been using wells with such a mechanism for decades and has not killed anyone (at least for us).



I made a winch from a wheel from a cart. I cut off a rubber tire similarity from it, and then made cuts along the rim. Then I bent down these cuts with a hammer, as a result, a groove for the cable turned out on the wheel. 30 meters of a 4 mm cable can fit into such a winch without problems.


As a handle for the winch, I used a piece of steel pipe. Take a larger pipe, so it will be easier to work.


There is a hole on the winch pipe in which there is a steel rod. It works as a winch lock.

Step Three Installation at the drilling site and preparation
I decided to drill a well right under the house, since it is unlikely to guess the location of the water, and I will win by saving pipes. It is important that the structure is securely fixed so that it does not move. I set it on two thick heavy boards and nailed it.



Now you can rewind the cable. I burned a hole in the winch by welding with a graphite electrode and inserted a cable. Then on the other side he put on a nut and moored the cable with wire.
Under the device, he removed the top layer of the earth so as not to hit the stones lying above and other rubbish.



Step Four Shock column assembly

The shock column was redone a couple of times. First, as a knife, I welded an ordinary can to the end of the pipe. No matter how ridiculous it looked, but with a can I broke the first 10 meters, but then I came across stones and it bent me.












To pass the stones, I cut the can and cut the teeth on the main pipe. With these teeth, I crushed granite without any problems.


Of course, the can is a very weak construction, but this is just an example of how everything works. As a knife, you need to use a strong and thin pipe (a stainless steel is perfect). The length of the knife can be 15-25 cm. It makes no more sense, since you are unlikely to pick up so much soil at a time.


The pipe is attached to the cable using a steel rod to which the nut is welded. The shaft itself is also securely welded to the pipe.

Cable mount
It is also important to say a few words about the mooring of the cable, it is very important. I inserted it into a copper pipe, and then bent it. Well, the loop of the cable was wrapped with aluminum wire. In principle, it has not yet broken. It is mainly held by a bent pipe, and it prevents it from rubbing.
It is also very important to fix the shock tube through the swivel, otherwise the cable will constantly twist. And if you use a twisted cable, you will immediately break it (I had it at first).
The swivel itself must be very strong. It is also useful to install a carabiner, so the pipe can be unfastened during transportation.





Valve
I immediately decided to make a valve for the shock pipe so that it would be possible to pump out water and dry rocks (if any). I found some kind of round thing, in diameter it clearly entered the pipe. I saw through a hole in it with a tricky shape (it’s hard to cut a round grinder) and then installed the rubber membrane from the Zhiguli camera, screwing it with aluminum wire (for easy replacement).
But practice has shown that this gum is weak, I then strengthened it with another one, cutting a round from a rubber boot.













The valve was useful to me when there were heavy downpours, and I did not close the well. There was a lot of water, I pumped it all out without problems thanks to this valve. And so when drilling it is, in principle, not needed. Except when drilling an aquifer.

Step Five The device is almost ready. Making the trigger
The trigger mechanism is very simple, it works like a “mousetrap”. I made it from a door hinge, a bolt with a nut, a ring and a piece of chain.

In the door hinge, you need to drill a through hole under the bolt and nut, which will tighten it, thereby clamping the cable. But instead of drilling, I just sawed a groove in both halves of the grinder. In order not to hold the bolt with ten keys, I welded it to the loop.


To the loop you still need to weld a piece of chain with a ring. The ring can be made of steel wire if there is no suitable at hand. A rod opposite the well must be welded to the frame of the machine; an shock tube will be hung on it.

Now we take the door hinge, fasten it to the cable with a bolt and hang it with a ring on a rod welded to the frame. The device is cocked and ready for battle!

Another important point. To prevent the cable from slipping, before fastening the loop, wind aluminum sheet or copper around it, and then tighten it with a wrench.

How to drill?
Since there is a sharp knife at the end of the pipe, a large impact force is not needed here, my impact range is in the region of 1-2 m. That is, the pipe should fly no more than 2 m to the point of impact. If you do more, you will it is difficult then to pull the pipe out of the ground. It can be up to a cable break. Therefore, it is better to make two meter kicks than one two meter kick. Well, from two meters with my 4 mm cable I pull out without any problems. Of course, it still depends on the type of soil.




The most difficult thing is to start drilling, here you need to release the pipe by hand with a winch, lifting it by 5-10 cm, until you pass the first half meter, then everything goes like clockwork. In principle, the initial “hole” can be punched by other methods, for example, drilled with a garden drill.



So, the drilling process:

1. We fix the latch on the cable so that the pipe hangs above the impact site at a height of 1-2 m.

2. Let the winch release 1-2 m of the cable with a margin and put the cable so that it does not become tangled when the pipe moves.

3. We move to a safe distance and with a stick we pull off the ring from the rod. As a result, the pipe flies down and hits the ground.

4. Pull the pipe with a winch and put it on the ground for easy cleaning. I put it at an angle on a stump, it is quite convenient for me to lower, raise and clean it.

5. After cleaning, lower the pipe again, charge the structure and so on.

In one blow, the pipe enters 10-15 cm (depending on what soil). In practice, sand with clay and loams easily go. The upper dry layer of light clay (in my area) is heavy.
You can do 1-2 hits and pull the pipe. If the soil is hard, then you need to do a few strokes, as it is not enough typed.

If there is dry and hard rock, you can pour water into the well and wait a bit. Then continue drilling.

The process is long, difficult, only for real enthusiasts)) I have already passed more than 15 meters and am satisfied with myself. While there is wet sand with clay and pebbles. I hope the water at the drilling site will be closer, and I will achieve my goal. During the drilling I took out many interesting pebbles, dry clay with the imprints of ancient mollusks, the remainder of some very ancient stick.

A few more photos in the end




When I drill, there will be another article about the installation of casing pipes, buildup and more.
9.3
9.3
7.5

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20 comments
Yuri Ternovsky
They drilled the test so 13 meters, it’s hard of course, but they drilled
Author
An aquifer without a valve cannot pass. There you need to take out the soil with water ...Actually for these purposes, a valve is needed.

And my soil also “sticks” perfectly, while there is no water, the valve is not needed.

I have a pipe like 130 ... But the well is probably now all 150 if not more

One stone similar to marl, by the way, I pulled out recently ... like this

I want to add a little bit of tar, so to speak, to those followers who decide on such a thing .... About 30 years ago I already used a similar design for drilling a well. As always, it was in the village ... there was no such accessible and perfect equipment as it is now. And water was needed for cattle, which my relatives kept. And so: To pull the pipe, we made a wooden well collar with a cable. I made a 100mm steel pipe (it’s better to do more so that the casing with the pump then passes). At the end of the pipe I welded a cage from the bearing, sharpened from the inside. Used as a jumper during construction work. (It’s very good to add the valve as the author’s, but with us the land was clogging up well, as it is) The worst thing is that having passed all the earth, you run into an aquifer of solid marl. He is not very fat, maybe 30-50 cm, but it is hard to break through. For this, we used both scrap and a drill with a long pipe from several links with hard brazing and a drill at the end. When you pass this cord, water soars upwards by 1.5-2 meters. And here a problem arises, how to drill further? Water makes it difficult to raise the ground. If you do not drill deeper, the flow rate may be small and you can’t put any filter. You pump out a bucket and a half and the water runs out .... And the aquifer can see 10 in total .... After a long ordeal, we dug a normal well in this place and still use it using a pump. Bucket used 2 times in total. I wish all followers success!
So I take cheap "Meadow Abrasive." Worse and no, probably ... But they are not torn ...
Author
Well, I don’t know, it’s not my best in quality. A little gape, crunching and broke off a piece. Yes, I also continue to cut, grind on unnecessary pieces of iron, etc.

Danger is represented by grinding wheels (grinding wheels). Such thick ones ... This one somehow broke, I immediately received 3 wounds in my body. What is interesting ... the damaged places after the gap only after a minute or two begin to hurt ...
drive a couple of times already vomited and alive.

.. Damn ... How do you all so cut that your wheels tear ??? "Against the wool", chtoli ???
For me all the time, two times a whole small piece was torn out of the edge of the disk - it was starting to buzz loudly. And then, that was when, due to the inability to cut correctly (I could not crawl), I was forced to cut “against the wool”! And after that I did not change the circles, but simply gently sawed it on the edge of an unnecessary corner, bringing it at a small angle to a round state and worked on it further.
And I’ll tell you that I cut quite a few circles! He bought his first Bulgarian in Frankfurt in the 95th year. I always buy circles in packs (50 pcs each), because if I cook something, I cut it, then often a dozen per day go away ...
Well, they don’t fly away from me !!!
Author
And on the contrary, it inspires me to do something new, in my own way and to all evil derisive Well, really, my critic, a neighbor, praised me this time, he says he made a good car. He asks every day whether he has reached the water or not))

Bulgarian ... yes ... We must put it. Although the drive a couple of times already vomited and alive. Eyes can knock out
Yes, I just gave examples for "raw thoughts" ... The method you chose is probably the most suitable for your conditions and your capabilities ...
.. I even want to express my respect - this is how to "rush to the problem" and solve it with improvised methods, having no experience in this matter, and not having any serious "base" - it costs a lot ....
... Although ... If, for example, I was afraid to do what I was doing for the first time, then I would not have children ... aggressive
PS ... And for a Bulgarian without protection - tear off his hands !!! ... ireful
Author
Well, it's all good, but as for me, digging up to 30 m is not very realistic ...I don’t have normal friends here either, but I can’t work with anyone
When I closed the well, I "nadybal" several two-meter pipes — shirts with threads at the ends. I dug a hole near the well, poured water into it, and connected it with a groove to the well. The motor pump pumped from the pit into the pipe (made a sleeve with a coupling). When I went deeper, I unscrewed the sleeve, connected the second with a sleeve, and again shook it. Water was squeezed out of the well into a pit and again pumped by a motor pump into a pipe. Little had to be added ...
And our wells are drilled with a jumper. Pipes are built on it to the desired depth. Upstart uptest. Two are working - one stands on this cross and presses with its weight. Another twists it along with the pipe. They go deeper and a half meters, then together they take out a jumper (use metal grips on the principle of "claws" from electricians), knock out,, and drive on .. It grows easily - the couplings are welded onto the pipes, put on and insert a finger. A cable comes from the jumper in case they don’t hold the pipe. (there are special hooks on the pipes for laying along it. Growth and "growth" takes place directly above the well - one holds the pipe with a "grab" resting on a board on the edge, the other puts / removes the module, intercepts with its grab and went to lower / raise further.
Dmitrij,
Well, yes ... I did this purely for one operation - in the house that I am rebuilding, I attached an extension, and I want to make a basement under it. Digging a pit right next to the foundation is somehow dumb, especially since heavy trains do not go very far, if a huge half-kilometer train with gravel goes, then the sound is quiet, and vibration on the ground is felt ....
So I, stepping back from the foundation about a meter, drilled 2.5 meters deep and poured concrete reinforced piles. Four per day. And so, quietly, he built a wall from them across the entire width.
Author
Well, this can only be drilled to a shallow depth. Each time it needs to be pulled out with soil ... just imagine, if you have at least 10 meters ... Firstly, this is a complex winch, secondly, you constantly need to unscrew / screw the knees ...

And there’s nowhere to get the pipes for me, I don’t have a trailer either. In short, absolutely no way.

And what I want to do is a hydraulic drill. Here we need a pump, an electric motor, pipes ... That would be a good car, come, drill, and drive away. Well, this is a different level of investment.
Is it really hard to do a drill? Or expensive?
.... Now, I needed to fill a couple of piles in the ground, so I welded a drill from scrap metal. True, it only grows up to two and a half meters, and without a glass. Well, in the morning I started, and in a day I cooked, drilled and poured four piles ...



Author
If I decide to drill as a business ... then of course I will do a drill. So why do I need him? And so for myself I did it almost for free
For all this time that I spent on this nonsense, how many normal drills I could have built up ... Yes, and more than one well would have pierced. One thing is good - at least it’s busy, but you’re hanging around pears.
Author
I will make pictures of artifacts, lay out)
And de pictures of trilobites in clay ???
Our drilling costs around 250 UAH ($ 10) per meter, and since you need to drill more than 25 meters, and also pay for the road to the place, not including the pump and other equipment, it costs a little shorter, and there is still no 100% guarantees that they will drill water ..

It costs about a meter for us (maybe a little cheaper - you can find somewhere around $ 8, if you look), but this price includes the road, pipe, filter, and, most importantly, WATER! ... T. e. if they have not shown me the water from their pipe, I will not pay them anything! They just fold, apologize for the hassle and leave! ))))) .. Only if they put hydrophore and showed me the water coming from the pipe, I pay them the agreed price for the meter of the pipe lowered into the well! Well, for hydrophore separately, if I want to leave it. If not, then they remove it and take it away.This is stated in the contract in advance ...
And since we usually have water at 8-12 meters, no one, of course, bothers - for $ 100 fools, of course, it’s not worth it ...))) I once closed a well in a greenhouse with a motor pump. But, purely out of interest - there is a motor pump, there is water nearby. I wanted to try ...
By the way, it turned out ..
Yes professor, this is not a time machine for you to build xaxa

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