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LEDs and 18760

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I have accumulated a bunch of battery 18760 from laptops. I decided to rivet flashlights.

There are a lot of questions on connecting LEDs, duration of work, and so on.

I bought one LED on 12V 10 watts from the spotlight. How to connect it correctly? I read, I need a radiator, can I install hot glue? That is, apply a drop of glue, and then sculpt an LED on it?
Do I need a resistor here and so on. For example, four 18760 cells will produce 3.7X4 = 14.8V. What kind of resistor is needed to lower the voltage to 12V?
And you need to determine approximately the operating time from four 18760.

There are 3V LEDs, the battery produces 3.7V, what resistors are needed for them?
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33 commentary
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Quote: Valery
Discharge below 3.7 - will die !!!

It is impossible to lower (2.7 ... 3) V, how much - it depends on the specific type of battery. But up to 3 V - everything is definitely possible.
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Valery,
Yes, I sometimes wonder how branded elements survive, you sit and "use" the element from the other world))
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Recently they brought a battery from a medical device for repacking, so there’s generally something like 2 / 3C. I've never met anyone like this in my life!
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And the type of chemistry they have is Ni-MH.

Then, judging by what Dmitry wrote (discharge "to zero", they were lying around for a long time, etc.) they definitely need to be scrapped)))) They definitely will not feed a 10-watt matrix for a long time.))))
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Oh yes ... I read it above ...
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Have they ever been in such a form factor?
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Apparently this is not lithium 18650, but something from type A nickel.
Author 0
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there is no ruler at hand, measured with a piece of paper in a box. The length is about 65, the thickness is about 3.5 cells (visually less), that is, about 16-17 mm, definitely not 18 mm

Photo of inscriptions
+1
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Is there a photo of the batteries, on the plus side, side inscriptions?
There are 4 / 3A elements, for example, and they have a size of 17 * 67mm. Here they are just 1.2 volts. And the type of chemistry they have is Ni-MH.
Author 0
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Valery,
These are the scribbles
esdk
Author 0
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Valery,
I repeatedly shortened these batteries, discharged to zero, they rolled around for months. I charged it artificially directly and everything works) I agree with the fact that such an extreme shortens the life
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Quote: Dmitrij
Nope, others. On it does not rise the cradle above 1.4 in how not to charge

Measure them. If the thickness is about 18 mm, and the length is about 65, then this is the usual 18650 (in the name their sizes)))). And the fact that 1.4 ..... Uh ... Or maybe they are just dead? ))))
By the way, lithium is famous for its almost no self-discharge ... Do these 1.4 after a long time not change, if it just lies? Because, if they are working, then in six months there will be the same tension ...
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Dmitry, it all depends on the type of batteries ... In a simplified form, lithium differs from others in that it does not change the internal resistance depending on the charge. That is, if you charge it, it will "eat until it bursts."))))). Moreover ("burst" - in the literal sense!)))). And if discharged, it will sit until it dies !!! That's why lithium voltage is highly dependent on the degree of charging !!! At the same time, the graph of voltage versus charge level is an almost straight line !! (And the rest have a slow, insignificant decrease in the charge during discharge, and then a sharp "break") That is, it is unstably defined by lithium with one digit, and in the form of an interval it is usually 3.7 - 4.2 Volts. Discharge below 3.7 - will die !!! Charge more than 4.2 - will burst !!! They are hemorrhoidal like this at a charge for high capacity with small sizes ...))))
That is why for flashlights, for example, it is recommended to use protected batteries (they have a small controller that breaks the circuit with a minimum discharge and maximum charge). And simple ones are used where you can’t discharge them below the minimum. (as in a cellular or computer - the device just turns off). And they are charged ONLY in special chargers with a cut-off.
Author 0
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Nope, others. On it does not rise the cradle above 1.4 in how not to charge
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In the photo, the batteries are 3.7 volts (18650)
The 3.7 volt controller is most likely designed for lithium.
Or am I misunderstood something?
Author 0
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The question is, what will happen if you charge the acb 2.7V with a controller that is designed for 3.7V. Will recharge?
Or does he somehow determine by amperes?

And how to solve this problem ...

The batteries in the picture are not for 3.7V, but for 1.3 for some reason
Author 0
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and I almost bought a dollar on the radio market (20 UAH)
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By the way, right now, in real time I am changing such matrices in three spotlights. (The burned-down spotlights were "adjusted" by a familiar collective farm electrician. Diodes - with Ali, at 27 cents ...)))))
I thought of boiling the three-spotlight floodlight ... And then cooking with welding is bad after work. It gets dark early, and through the "chameleon" from the usual light bulb nifig is not visible ...
+1
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For such powerful LEDs, it is necessary to use a pulsed source of stable current.
+1
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Quote: Dmitrij
some blue thing, what is it?
Connector for connecting the battery. The decision is unsuccessful, "Krona" will land a fly, not without reason the author recommends using a battery. The current limit is not standardized, only due to the internal resistance of the battery. It will shine weakly and not for long.
Author +2
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I found a flashlight from the crown and a 12V LED (like mine). The author says that they do not need a radiator for 9V, if I understand correctly ..

There is still some kind of blue thing, what is it? Driver?
+1
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I think it is more correct than 18650.
In China, there is conductive glue for LEDs. And just screw it on a flat surface and grease thermal grease for the PC processor.
If powered by 4 x 18650. We omit all the rules and all that. I would like, why not, but ..
need a 2 watt resistor and a resistance of 2.8 ohms. With an approximate current of 0.83 amperes, the elements will quickly discharge below acceptable levels and need to be "raised" or it will be too late ..
It will be more correct to apply
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
need current driver

The blessing in China is full.
About 3-volt LED
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We need a radiator corresponding to the dissipated power, put it on thermal grease (there are good normal flanges), for this power the resistor is no longer effective, we need a current driver. There are a bunch of websites dedicated to LEDs, where you can find more detailed specific information.
+1
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Speaking of "buy" ..))))
All this is necessary for a high-quality flashlight! And individually, Ali is worth a penny ... And together - more expensive than a flashlight with a T-6, or even L2.
By the way, I did not see a particularly noticeable difference in the luminous flux of T6 and L2. (There are both.) Declare a seemingly reduced power consumption of the L-second, but I have not tried to test them on a single battery.
But the price difference is palpable ... T6 (ready-made flashlight) for less than five dollars can be taken. For such a "mobile spotlight" - quite a penny ...
-1
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For a flashlight, it is desirable CREE XM-L2 and preferably on the star (this is the primary radiator) and a good (correct) reflector and current driver. And then your creativity
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I don’t like your comments with the word "buy")
+1
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I would advise better to make a flashlight from T6, or L2. On one (sensible) battery, an hour or two will work. And with good optics it hits like a high beam headlight.
In general, this is a lesson from the category "it’s better to buy, because you yourself will still make it worse"))). Now on Ali for a penny you can buy ready-made lights on the T6 without a battery. True, if not a typo, then the batteries will not work ...
Author 0
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A comrade said from some old laptop. I have all sorts
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This is a matrix from a searchlight ... In flashlights it is usually not used.
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In general, some kind of strange batteries ... In the laptops, the usual 18650 always stand ... But what about these, is 11 mm longer?
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I’m waiting for him) on a large crystal 9 points, if you look closely
+1
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There are 3V LEDs yet

They (diodes) are basically all about 3 volts. (The one at 12 is the assembly. There are many diodes there), Just do not forget that, with respect to the diode, there is no concept of "operating voltage". There is a concept of "voltage drop" - DIODE DO NOT LOAD ...
+2
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I read, I need a radiator, can I install hot glue? That is, apply a drop of glue, and then sculpt an LED on it?

God forbid !!!! Only thermal grease! Its cool nnada))) ....
"Resistor" is always needed - a diode is not a load, but a conductor !!! (Why I wrote it in quotation marks - because you can limit the current and it’s possible with a “driver” - a special circuit.
About the rest, Hangovers will write)))))

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