» Electronics » Arduino »A simple do-it-yourself dosimeter on the Arduino Nano

A simple do-it-yourself dosimeter on an Arduino Nano

Good day, dear the inhabitants of our site!
In this article, Konstantin, How-todo workshop, will show in detail how to make a simple dosimeter on Arduino nano and SBM20 (STS-5).

The dosimeter, by its principle of operation, is a very simple device.

To build it we need:

Actually, a device for recording charged particles, for which we will use a Geiger tube.

High voltage power supply for it, with an output voltage of about 400 V.
Indication device, sound or light, which will report breakdowns in the handset.

In the simplest case, you can use a speaker as an indicator.

A charged particle striking the counter wall knocks electrons out of it.
And in the gas that the tube is filled with, a breakdown occurs. For a very short time, the speaker receives power through the handset and it clicks. Of course, everyone will agree that clicks are not the best way to get information.

Clicks, of course, will be able to warn of an increase in the background, but counting them with a stopwatch to get accurate readings is simply an outdated method.

We will use new technologies and fasten them to the handset electronic brain with a display.


Let's move on to practice. Electronics is presented in the form of an Arduino nano board.
The program is very simple, it counts the number of tube breakdowns for a certain time interval, and displays the received data on the screen.

Also, at the time of breakdown, a radiation symbol is displayed, as well as a battery indicator.

The device’s power source is a 18650 battery.

Due to the fact that the arduino board is powered by 5V, a module with a converter is installed.
A battery management board is also installed to make the device fully autonomous.

Difficulties began when the author began to solve the problem with a high-voltage converter.
He originally made it himself. A transformer was wound on a ferrite core, about 600 turns of the secondary.

The signal came from the integrated PWM in the Arduino. Through a transistor, this works quite fine.

The author, however, I wanted to make the design accessible for repetition to anyone, even a beginner.
After some time, Konstantin found high-voltage converters on aliexpress.
Let's start testing the purchase version. He gave out a maximum of 300 Volts, with already declared 620.

Having ordered another, it turned out to be of different sizes, despite the fact that the previous ones were indicated in the description.
The last converter was still able to produce the required voltage of 400 V, the maximum was 450, with the manufacturer's declared 1200V.

We remodel the case for a different size of the converter.

In the end, we get a design that almost entirely consists of modules.

Boost Converter.

Battery charge control board.

5 volt boost module.

Brain in the form of arduino nano.

The display is 128 by 64, but in the end, 128 by 32 pixels will be applied.


It will also require 2N3904 transistors, 10MΩ and 10KΩ resistors, and a 470pF capacitor.


On-off switch.

Battery, buzzer with built-in generator.

And, of course, the main element is the Geiger counter applied model STS5.


It can be replaced by a similar one, SBM20, and, in principle, any similar one.
When replacing the counter, it will be necessary to make adjustments to the program, according to the sensor documentation.
In the used STS5 counter, the number of micro-roentgen per hour corresponds to the number of breakdowns in the tube in 60 seconds.

The case, as usual, is printed on a 3D printer.




We begin to collect.
The first step is to set the output voltage of the converter using a trimming resistor.

According to the documentation, for STS5 it is about 410 volts.

Next, we simply connect all the modules according to the scheme.

The modular principle simplifies circuitry to a minimum.
When assembling, it is desirable to use rigid single-wire wires, for example from twisted pair.

Thanks to them, the entire device is easy to assemble on a table.

After assembly, just put it in the case.

An important nuance. In order for our device to work, it is necessary to install a jumper on the high-voltage module.

We connect the minus of the input with the minus of the output.

But we cannot control high voltage directly with the Arduino. To do this, we make the isolation circuit on the transistor.

We solder with a hinged installation, insulate with hot melt adhesive or heat shrink, to whom it is more convenient.




In the connector of the positive high-voltage output, we install a 10MΩ resistor.




It is advisable to make the terminals for connecting the tube itself from copper foil.



But for tests, you can fix it on twists. Observe the polarity of the tube.
We install the display, connect it with a loop with connectors.




Check the insulation very well, the screen is located next to the high-voltage module.




Mounting is ready, we install the entire structure in the housing.


Everything is finished, the device shows a normal background radiation.



Links to components.


128 * 32 OLED



The Geiger counter was introduced for you by the author of the project, Konstantin, How-todo workshop.

7.2
7.1
7.7

Add a comment

    • smilesmilesxaxaokdontknowyahoonea
      bossscratchfoolyesyes-yesaggressivesecret
      sorrydancedance2dance3pardonhelpdrinks
      stopfriendsgoodgoodgoodwhistleswoontongue
      smokeclappingcraydeclarederisivedon-t_mentiondownload
      heatirefullaugh1mdameetingmoskingnegative
      not_ipopcornpunishreadscarescaressearch
      tauntthank_youthisto_clueumnikacuteagree
      badbeeeblack_eyeblum3blushboastboredom
      censoredpleasantrysecret2threatenvictoryyusun_bespectacled
      shokrespektlolprevedwelcomekrutoyya_za
      ya_dobryihelperne_huliganne_othodifludbanclose
87 comments
Quote: Sergei H.
The display may light up immediately after power is applied, it may not, but mainly after the second or even the third time. The voltage on the arduino is 5 volts after the converter, the power LED on the arduino is on. This is on battery power. There is no problem with usb.
If there are no problems from USB, but from the battery, then you have improperly organized power. Draw a power diagram of Arduino.
You got it right. What do you mean by the words "high impedance speakers"? If their resistance is 32 ohms or higher, then unsolder the collector of the transistor from Arduino and turn on the speaker in the gap between the collector and five volts. It should click too.
The power is connected correctly. Not like in the author’s diagram. Tell me about the transistor. As I understand it, the pulse goes to the base of the transistor during the breakdown and it must open completely to shunt gnd and pin2. I hear clicks through high-impedance speakers, I turn on the gap between the base and sbm-20.
Once again I repeat the question: how is the power connected - correctly or according to the picture in this article?
The transistor in this circuit is not a control, but an input matching.
The author’s scheme is bad primarily because of wild consumption, the indicator of radioactivity should be as economical as possible.
In high-voltage converters, often low-current ones, it is important to correctly measure the output voltage: it is necessary to take into account the input resistance of the voltmeter.
In general, I connected the SBM-20. One click and all 1 μR / h. The sensor is 100% tested. I will make another circuit for the control transistor on ct315. All the same, 2t3904 does not open in this scheme. The rights were Ivan Pohmelev.
I have a 400-volt converter on the MC34063. Adjustment is from about 200 to 500 volts. The circuit is in the magazine 2015 radio designer-12.
The display may light up immediately after power is applied, it may not, but mainly after the second or even the third time. The voltage on the arduino is 5 volts after the converter, the power LED on the arduino is on. This is on battery power. There is no problem with usb. That whether the converter is buggy, or the display.
Quote: Sergei H.
Connected correctly.
Correctly or from the picture in this article?
Quote: Sergei H.
After the first power-up, the display does not light, only after the second.
The third time you describe the malfunction and each time in a different way. ((
How really?
Connected correctly. After the first power-up, the display does not light, only after the second.
In the picture on nutrition, delirium is drawn. You just need to make the food right. And there you go!
The author’s picture is mousy. Read about the correct connection of just such a module (TP4056 + DW01). And the boost module is absurdly drawn. Understand and connect the power correctly.
Quote: Subbota40
What kind of battery?
The voltage on the USB port is 5v, and for single-bank lithium - 3.7v.
Maybe in this?

The battery is the same as that of the author's 18650. I also supply power through the dc-dc converter, the output is 5.12 volts. By the way, there is an error on the circuit, who noticed. I don’t know why the arduino is not strong. If you separately remove the power from the display and then turn it on, the display is also off.
Feed the entire circuit from a laboratory source. And if, with a voltage of 5V, everything will work fine, but with 3.7v it will happen once, then it may be worthwhile to put a boost converter in the circuit.
And so, out of curiosity, look at the technical parameters of the modules used. In particular, the voltage range. Again, there is a high-voltage pulse converter - a high-quality source of noise on power. It is unlikely that universal modules have power filters.
I am pretty sure the problem is nutrition.
What kind of battery?
The voltage on the USB port is 5v, and for single-bank lithium - 3.7v.
Maybe in this?
Quote: Sergei H.
The firmware does not load, somewhere there is an error.

Understood. There was no library Bounce2.h. Another problem got out. When the power is connected from the battery, the display does not always load, but there is no problem with usb power, what could be?
The firmware does not load, somewhere there is an error.
There is a nuance in these dosimeters. Faced him a long time ago. Also collected indicator on SBM-20. With an exit to the dial indicator (~ 250mka). And I bought a simple dosimeter-squeaker (sound output) in the UT store. With a view to use for alteration. These blanks of 5 years failed ... Then he began to collect - it doesn’t work and that’s all. It turned out that SBM-20 is not already working. They write her a shelf life of ~ 20 years.
Thank you. I'll try to collect for fun.
Presumably, the INPUT_PULLUP mode is set at this input, that is, the internal pull-up resistor is turned on.
If the black wire according to the scheme is minus (Gnd), if green then this is the entrance to the arduino. I do not understand where the plus is taken from the transistor. From the entrance to the arduino?
From Arduina. The author did not present the schemes, but from the picture you can determine what this conclusion is. Apparently, a digital input.
I have a question, plus where does the power to the 2n3904 go from?
There are no people who want to solve the riddle, except for one person. ((
Regarding the fact that
at the output of a high-voltage converter no capacitor.
This is not true. At the output of the multiplier relative to the common wire, 3 capacitors are connected in series. Unfortunately, we do not know their capacity, but they are.
The reason here is different. The Chinese have significantly embellished the output current of their "miracle." Hence the numerous complaints of buyers that they cannot put up the promised tension.
On the websites of sellers the photos are the same, apparently taken from the manufacturer. They connect a load of 5.1 MΩ at a voltage of 500 V, while the current consumption increases from 120 mA at idle to 180 mA. They use a cartoon with an input impedance of 10 MΩ, and the author of the product under discussion used a device with an input impedance of 1 MΩ. Therefore, in reality, the output of the multiplier is not 400 V, but much more, at least 600 V.
And such a wild current consumption makes it impossible to use the device for its intended purpose. A conventional blocking generator, used for the same purpose, has a current consumption of a few milliamps.
Arduino and constantly burning OLED display also do not add profitability.
Judging by the photo, the output of the high-voltage converter no capacitor. For STS5 (SBM20) they usually set ~ 3nF x 630V. And without it, pulses of more than 400v can creep. They can cause a trip (to the delight of the Arduinists)
Well, in a month no one has guessed the riddle, how will the silicon transistor open at 0.4 V at the base?
Quote: New Standard
A question for connoisseurs what measures and what does not measure this dosimeter:

Well, again in Google with Yandex banned? )))
Firstly, this is not a dosimeter.
Secondly, it does not measure.
Thirdly, the device has sensitivity to hard β- and γ-radiation.
A question for connoisseurs what measures and what does not measure this dosimeter:
1-alpha radiation;
2-beta radiation;
3-gamma rays;
4-neutron fluxes;
5-neutrino fluxes;
6 notes in the sun;
7-fixes nuclear explosions both on Earth and in space;
8-measures like a compass, where Chernobyl or the "Lighthouse" ...
You can measure or record the total radioactive background with a conventional sensitive video camera. Turn on the camera in the dark. You see individual flashes of pixels on the monitor screen, this is radioactivity
I apologize for the stupid presentation of my thoughts! I’m for fun. When communicating with some "specialists", I sometimes feel proud of my Soviet education!
Quote: Korolev
don't have to be able to do it myself

But already know something should!
I’m silent about the fact that this is not a “dosimeter” or even a radiometer, although it reminds me of it. While this is an indicator of radioactivity with a lie in the display of information.
Somewhere I read the phrase: "A good specialist does not have to be able to do it himself, he must be able to teach another!"
Although the circuit diagrams in the pictures also touch me ...
I flattered the Arduinists a little. )) Especially in such "diagrams-drawings" I am touched by the image of transistors and diodes with pictures, which makes it very difficult to understand what they were trying to convey.
Here the author, of course, is rather weak in electronics, to put it mildly. And the reteller doesn’t even know that.And after all they undertake to teach others! ((
There is no device schema in this publication. There are a bunch of photos, plus a slurred picture of connecting the boards with colored lines.
Well, did anyone guess a riddle about how the transistor opens?
I’ll hint: the author’s sensor is in an unacceptable mode.))
And I think somewhere I already saw it.
DIY ARDUINO GEIGER COUNTER
I looked closely - the unit of measurement is incorrectly standing.
And by the way, what are the results of checking the operation of the device? How was it checked? At what level is the inclusion of a tweeter?
It is a pity that the listing of the program is not presented.
Also required .... 10MΩ and 10KΩ resistors,
A divider of 1: 1000 will give 0.4 V based on the transistor. How it will open is a mystery. ((
The case, as usual, is printed on a 3D printer.
It is not clear why the grill is made in the sensor compartment. To collect dust and dirt? )))
In the diagram in the lower right corner, the connection of the charging module and the boost module is reversed. ((
But we cannot control high voltage directly with Arduino. To do this, we make the isolation circuit on the transistor.
Well tell me honestlyaboutPeople, how are you going to "manage high voltage"? )))

We advise you to read:

Hand it for the smartphone ...