» Electronics » Amplifiers 100 Watt Transistor Power Amplifier

100 Watt Transistor Power Amplifier


Hello! In this article I will describe in detail how to make a cool amplifier for the home or auto. The amplifier is simple to assemble and configure, and has good sound quality. Below is a schematic diagram of the amplifier itself.

The circuit is made on transistors and does not have scarce parts. The power supply of the amplifier is bipolar +/- 35 volts, with a load resistance of 4 Ohms. When connected with 8 ohm load, the power can be increased to +/- 42 volts.

Resistors R7, R8, R10, R11, R14 - 0.5 W; R12, R13 - 5 watts; the remaining 0.25 watts.
R15 trim 2-3 kOhm.
Transistors: Vt1, Vt2, Vt3, Vt5 - 2sc945 (usually c945 is written on the body).
Vt4, Vt7 - BD140 (Vt4 can be replaced with our Kt814).
Vt6 - BD139.
Vt8 - 2SA1943.
Vt9 - 2SC5200.

ATTENTION! The c945 transistors have a different pinout: ECB and EBK. Therefore, before soldering, you need to check with a multimeter.
The LED is ordinary, green, GREEN! He is not here for beauty! And it should NOT be super-bright. Well, the rest of the details can be seen in the diagram.

And so, let's go!


To make an amplifier we need instruments:
soldering iron
-tin
- rosin (preferably liquid), but you can get by with the usual
scissors for metal
nippers
-awl
- medical syringe, any
- drill 0.8-1 mm
- drill 1.5 mm
-drill (preferably some mini drill)
-sandpaper
and multimeter.

Materials:
- one-sided textolite board measuring 10x6 cm
copybook sheet
-a pen
-varnish for wood (preferably dark)
- small container
-baking soda
-lemon acid
-salt.

I will not list the list of radio components, they can be seen in the diagram.
Step 1 Cooking board
And so, we need to make a board. Since I don’t have a laser printer (I don’t have anything at all), we will manufacture the board “the old fashioned way”!
First you need to drill holes on the board for future parts. Whoever has the printer, just print this picture:

if not, then we need to transfer the marking to paper for drilling. You will understand how to do this in the photo below:

when you transfer, do not forget about the size of the board! (10 by 6 cm)


something like that!
We cut off the board size we need with scissors for metal.

Now we attach the sheet to the cut out board and fix it with tape so that it does not move out. Next, we take an awl and outline (by points) where we will drill.

You can of course do without an awl and drill right away, but the drill can move out!

Then it should turn out like this:

Now you can start drilling. We drill holes 0.8 - 1 mm. As I said above: it is better to use a mini drill, since the drill is very thin and breaks easily. For example, I use a motor from a screwdriver.


We drill holes for transistors Vt8, Vt9 and for wires with a drill of 1.5 mm. Now we need to sandpaper our board.

Now you can start drawing our tracks. We take a syringe, grind the needle so that it is not sharp, we collect varnish and go!

It is better to trim the jambs when the varnish has already hardened.

Step 2 Poison the board
To etch boards, I use the simplest and cheapest method:
100 ml of peroxide, 4 teaspoons of citric acid and 2 teaspoons of salt.

Stir and immerse our board.


Next, we clean off the varnish and it turns out like this!

It is advisable to immediately cover all the tracks with tin for the convenience of soldering parts.

Step 3 Soldering and tuning
It will be convenient to solder in this picture (view from the side of the parts)

For convenience, from the beginning we solder all small parts, resistors, etc.

And then everything else.

After soldering, the board must be washed from rosin. You can wash it with alcohol or acetone. You can even use gasoline to the extreme.

Now you can try to turn it on! With proper assembly, the amplifier works immediately. The first time you turn on the resistor R15, turn it towards the maximum resistance (measure with the device). Do not connect the column! Output transistors are MANDATORY to the radiator, through insulating gaskets.

And so: they turned on the amplifier, the LED should be on, we measure the output voltage with a multimeter. There is no constant, then everything is fine.
Next, you need to set the quiescent current (75-90mA): to do this, close the input to ground, do not connect the load! Set the mode to 200mV on the multimeter and connect the probes to the collectors of the output transistors. (marked with red dots in the photo)

Next, by slowly rotating the resistor R15, you need to set 40-45 mV.

Exposed, now you can connect the speaker and drive the amplifier at low volume for 10-15 minutes. Then again it will be necessary to correct the quiescent current.
Well, that’s it, you can enjoy it!

Here is the video of the amplifier:
8.2
7.9
7.3

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74 commentary
Quote: leprex
Immediately the smoke went.

Where from?
What position was the R15 before turning on?
Did as the author. One to one. I also looked into the diagram.
Immediately the smoke went. The LED was on. Bipolar nutrition. Winded on the transformer from the microwave. Resale 1mm in diameter. After the diode bridge 31v. Warm up and 5W resistors.
Quote: leprex
Power supply 31 volts + 0-.
What is "+ 0-"?
Did the scheme or reproduced the signet? Did the transistor fail immediately when turned on, before setting the quiescent current?
Hello everyone, please tell me: I did everything as the author did, but at the first start bd139 was knocked out, what could be the reason. Power supply 31 volts + 0-.
Author
Well, ask what is not clear, explain and tell! How can we help! yes
Author
Well, ask what is not clear, explain and tell! How can we help! yes
Hello, I’ll start with the fact that I'm full 0 in radio engineering (red +; black -).
But this homemade hooked me, can anyone explain in more detail?)
Z.Y. Explain can not only the author, but the one who understood what is here and how)
Author
Of course it is possible and necessary.
if you put at the input a separate cascade on ne5532? or pre-4558, is it possible? is it consistent?
Author
200-300 sq. cm for each transistor.
Author
From a conventional cordless screwdriver ...
Quote: Bender
These are temporary radiators

And which ones do you need constantly?
For example, I use a motor from a screwdriver.
From what, if not secret?
Tin solder? smiles
Author
Who does how!
Author
These are temporary radiators, used only for verification !!!!
Author
The amplifier will go into the car. It will feed naturally from the converter.
It is more convenient at first to countersink holes, then draw tracks, pickle, tin through the braid and only then drill.
Then you do not have to clean the holes from varnish and rosin.
And the mass (earth) I would not make so long. It is desirable to reduce everything to one point.
PS: The circuit is similar to my first transistor amplifier, assembled in 1979 still)))
Difkaskad, compound transistors, a complementary pair ....
Output transistors are MANDATORY to the radiator, through insulating gaskets.
Which radiator? If, as you have, there are separate radiators, then when isolating them from the case, it is possible without gaskets, but paste is necessary. The location of transistors on radiators is unsuccessful.
The fact that there are a lot of extra points on the diagram is half the trouble, but there is no one that is needed — sheer negligence.
amplifier for ... auto.
How will you feed?

We advise you to read:

Hand it for the smartphone ...