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Your recommendations for a sewage pit

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I dig a hole, already somewhere in 210 depth, there is soft clay. I am waiting for your recommendations on this issue. I appreciate the solutions are conservative and quick to implement.


1. What is the volume? There will be a bath, toilet, sink, washing machine. The place is hilly, no swamps and other similar moments.

2. How to spread the walls? I read that clay walls can not be covered at all, but all this is doubtful.
Does it make sense to cast walls? Broken brick, sand, cement ...

3. What to block? I’m thinking about casting a concrete slab directly above the pit. First cast a thin layer, then a thicker one. I can drag the stove with the machine.

Look like that's it.
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10 comments
+1
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Soils are different. Maybe you don’t need tricks either. Valery wrote everything correctly, but again under our soils. The only thing I would be careful with bacteria. I have a street toilet, besides a brownie. Well, the pit is ordinary, without a cover. I bought these bacteria, fell asleep. I look the level has fallen. Excellent. And the next year the walls began to crumble. And rightly so. The walls were wet. The level has fallen. Probably still these monsters cheto there devoured. And as a result, the walls are strewed. Therefore, either use constantly, from the very beginning, or not use. Although the cover may not be scary. Another tip, between the first pit and the first drain point, it is advisable to install a ventilation pipe. Tee and pipe up, upstairs "fungus".
Author 0
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It's just that the wife in her former house (well, not in the house, but you understand ...) dug a sewage pit, and there is a lowland up to 4 meters water, generally water everywhere, swamps around. Soil - black soil.So, the pit is 3 years old and it pours sooo much there, and sometimes bird feathers are washed off, all sand and other dirt there. Recently I looked in, the water level from the bottom of 30 centimeters, where this whole thing goes, is unknown.
The walls are lined with bricks and they have windows; water does not even reach these windows.

So I’m thinking that I should have no problems here on the hill. Although clay probably has a poor throughput.
+1
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Washing, solid deposits and other evil spirits will be condensed and accumulate in the septic tank, and only water will be in the infiltration.
+1
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If the upper level of the septic tank turns out low enough, then it’s good to put a greenhouse above it - the buzzard is heated, and the bed will be warm. Not for winter, of course, but still.
+2
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Dmitriy. If you want to make a canoe, which for the first 15 years will definitely not require maintenance, you will have to dig TWO holes.))) The first (septic tank). The walls must be made strong just enough so that they do not collapse.))) (Brick is unnecessary, monoline ... Yes, do not care). Ceiling - any strong. (As an example, the formwork is from unnecessary boards, above it is a concrete floor, and let it stay there ... There is a hatch in it.) The pipe to it must have a slope of at least 1 cm per linear meter. Accordingly, its UPPER part will be regulated by the introduction of the pipe. Depth - the more the better. How much does the groundwater table allow. (As I understand it, he is not tall there). Nearby is the second pit. Overflow between them must be done at the lower level of the inlet pipe. (I mean, the top edge of the overflow pipe is just below the bottom edge of the inlet.). Cover the bottom in both pits with large rubble, or rubble stone.
Principle of operation:
Pisikaki flow into the first hole (septic tank). Some of them are absorbed into the ground. (But the earth will be silted quickly enough). The level is growing. It takes a lot of time to fill the septic tank up to the overflow. During this time, bacteria will breed there that will feed on these pisikaki! (You can also add. Sold compositions for septic tanks). As a result, the lion's share will be processed by bacteria, some other share will stupidly exfoliate, and as a result, when the upper level reaches the overflow, there will be clean water from above. Which, merging into a neighboring pit, will be absorbed into the ground cheerfully and without consequences, without silting the surface. (In the adjacent pit, the layer of crushed stone is larger, and the walls to the surface of the layer should not be concrete, or concrete with “windows”. In the bottom, it would be nice to drill pits with a drill and fill them with large crushed stone as well. This is all necessary to increase the area of ​​infiltration.)
0
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Start a couple of kilo mustard powder with boiling water and pour. Zhiru Khan, and environmentally friendly.
Author 0
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and if it pours there with a detergent? sort of like it shouldn't score.
+2
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Spread out with a brick. I poured a stove from above. In the middle of the pipe, an old iron was tied to it. And fixed the edges of iron. Filled in two approaches. It costs about 10 years. I don’t remember the volume, but big. Already full. Moreover, it goes through another hole. Our soil is a dense clay of red color. And water passes through it badly. But most likely the problem is not even in clay, but in fats (my dishes). My mother has two holes. My father did the first 40 years ago. Only water after bathing and after washing was poured into it. And still it works. I heard that you need to drill and fill holes (3-4 pcs.) With medium rubble. Cover the bottom with a thin layer of rubble too. Then the fats remain on the stones, and the water goes down.
Author 0
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yes, I want
0
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Dim, do you want to make a septic tank?

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