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Mobile camera power system powered by AA batteries

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Many people like to use cameras mounted on smartphones. I also became the owner of the smartphone and tried its photographic capabilities. It turned out that the quality of photos and the convenience of working just like a camera does not provide a smartphone. And I remembered the camera - the battery eater.

It is no secret that a significant drawback of cameras powered by batteries or AA batteries is the small number of frames made on one set of batteries. The use of AA batteries does not save the situation, good batteries are difficult to maintain, expensive and short-lived. Cameras powered by Li-ion batteries are much more attractive in terms of the number of frames taken per battery charge, but they are also much more expensive. It turned out that this problem can be solved quickly and cheaply, while the disadvantage of Li-ion batteries - the inability to work at low temperatures - can be offset.


To make a mobile camera power system you will need:



Photo 1


Pulse DC-DC step-down converter with the ability to adjust the output voltage and the current limiting function on the LM2596S-ADJ chip with an LED voltmeter on the board, with an input voltage range from 4 to 40V, with an adjustable output voltage range of 1.5-35V, with a rated current 2A.



Photo 2


Power bank is a device with a 1200 mAh Li-ion battery with an output voltage of 5 V, with a charge and voltage control board.



Photo 3


USB cable



Photo 4


A plate of dielectric material with wires for connecting an adjustable step-down power supply module to the camera's battery compartment. Homemade record. It is installed in the camera compartment for AA batteries.


My camera does not have a connector for connecting an external power supply, so I had to "fence the garden."


Knife.


Screwdriver for precision work.


For this homemade I didn’t even need a soldering iron.



Photo 5


First of all, I cut off the unnecessary USB cable connector, removed the protective cover of the USB cable and stripped the red and black wires. I didn’t even have to check on which wires the power is supplied, since in all USB cables from the power source, plus a constant voltage is supplied through the red wire, and minus a constant voltage through the black wire. In my case, the power bank will be the power source.



Photo 6


[justify] I connect the red wire of the USB cable to the IN + terminal of the pulsed DC-DC buck converter, and the black wire to the IN-terminal of the pulsed DC-DC buck converter. Now you can connect the USB cable to the Power bank and adjust the output voltage with variable resistance on the board of a pulsed DC-DC buck converter, controlling it using an LED voltmeter.



Photo 6_1


There are two buttons on the pulse DC-DC buck converter board. The button, next to which there is an IN inscription on the board, turns the LED voltmeter on and off by successively pressing it. The button, next to which there is an inscription OUT on the board, changes the readings of the input (IN) voltage and output (OUT) voltage on the LED voltmeter by successively pressing it. The corresponding LED lights up. Next to these LEDs on the board are inscribed IN and OUT.
[/ justify]


Photo 7



Photo 8


I connect the Power bank to a pulsed DC-DC buck converter. I turn on the LED voltmeter on the board of a pulsed DC-DC step-down converter and observe a voltage of 4.8V. The question arose - what voltage to set? It was solved by trial and error. I set the output voltage to 2.8 V on the board of a pulsed DC-DC buck converter. I connected the camera, I press the On button, but it does not turn on. Turned off the camera. I twisted a variable resistor, set the voltage to 2.9V. I connected the camera, I press the On button, but it does not turn on again. I turned it on at an output voltage of 3V. Took a picture, the result in the photo below.



Photo 9


Photo 10


As a result, I get a mobile camera power system with a Li-ion battery with a capacity of 1200 mAh. Now I can use my camera in the cold. The Li-ion battery will be in the clothes pocket all the time, and the camera can only be removed if necessary to take a picture.


I would like to note that on sale there are adjustable step-down power modules without an LED voltmeter on the LM2596S-ADJ chip, with an input voltage range from 4 to 40V, with an adjustable output voltage range of 1.5-35V, with a rated current of 2A. They cost two times cheaper, and they are easier of course. Power bank can be used different, with a larger capacity and with a different output voltage.


Thanks for attention!

Success in creative work!
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6 comments
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Valery, one unpleasant problem with NiCd and NiMeH batteries is still there - the memory effect.

Yes, there is one. But, firstly, it does not threaten those that are used on the camera - they are always planted “to zero”)))). What is the point of changing batteries if the camera still works?
And, secondly, in modern universal charges there is a mode for this. I tried on a cheap Chinese Lito-Kala. (or whatever it is?)))). The batteries were about eight years old. The test showed 600-800 milliampere-hours. “Chased” three cycles - extended until 1900-2200. (Originally there were 2600). At the same time, I tested it on purpose, on a different charge - suddenly the cunning Chinese "stuck in a trick mode."))))
In our family, everyone is already used to using batteries.There is a "smart charger" for 12 slots. It is always on and batteries are always sticking out in it. Everyone knows that if the batteries have run out somewhere, then you need to get it from there, and put the batteries down in their place))). Over time, many capacities still lost. So I bought a few more “smart” smaller ones. In one (primitive full automatic) only “camera” ones are charged (These are the ones that have not yet lost power, and which last for several hundred photos with flash)))), the other (which I mentioned) serves for my tests and “treatment” . And I also take it with me "to nature" - it is convenient in that it works not only from 220, but also from the car network. And if you charge 18650 in it, and without removing them, unplug it from the wall outlet and take it with you, then this is a power bank.))) There is a USB, and it can work from the batteries inserted into it.
And in large - all the batteries used for flashlights, consoles, watches, Christmas garlands and other blood pressure monitors. Over time, they will go there and all the "camera" ...))))
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Ivan_Pokhmelev,
There is never an explanation. How can the plate reliably provide contact?
I agree with you, the performance is not so hot, but the idea is not bad, I think when the standard Li-Ion-ki start to die on my equipment, plug in (where not) micro-USB connectors and power from Power Banks ...
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: tot.gnom
"A plate of dielectric material with wires for connecting an adjustable step-down power supply module to the battery compartment of the camera. A home-made plate. It is installed in the camera compartment for AA batteries.
My camera does not have a connector for connecting an external power supply, so I had to "fence the garden."

There is never an explanation. How can the plate reliably provide contact? How will she hold on? Slightly touched the lead wire - and it will fall out. ((

Valery, One unpleasant troubles in NiCd and NiMeH accumulators are still there - the memory effect. And the specific capacity of lithium is higher.
And everything else - yes, you're right - three sets of batteries solve the problem.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
It is no secret that a significant drawback of cameras powered by batteries or AA batteries is the small number of frames made on one set of batteries. The use of AA batteries does not save the situation, good batteries are difficult to maintain, expensive and short-lived. Cameras powered by Li-ion batteries are much more attractive in terms of the number of frames taken per battery charge, but they are also much more expensive.

Strongly disagree !!! Always considered the use of unified "batteries" to be a merit. Indeed, unlike the author’s opinion, one set of charged batteries (AA 2200) is enough for one, for example, our “output”. (300-500 photos +, as my wife really loves, several hours of looking at and editing the shots in the evening right on the device). I can’t imagine what volumes he needs? !!!!).
At the same time, this allows you to "put in your pocket" a few more charged sets (which is very convenient, for example, if you travel abroad, and you do not want to carry exercises and fool around with it).
There is an experience of using a camera with an "own" lithium battery ... We got rid of it precisely for this reason - it is very inconvenient that you need to constantly monitor that it is charged! (While charged AA and AAA always stick out in our “smart charge.” Again, it’s not true that he can take more pictures on a single charge! There are models designed for only 200 pictures !!
good batteries are difficult to maintain, expensive and short-lived.

Explain this, please. Conventional "nickel" batteries are cheaper than lithium. “Difficult to maintain” they are slightly smaller than lithium - they can be charged with any charger. (I, however, all are charged with the same charge - both AA and AAA and 18650 and 16340. And I did not notice the difference in which of these batteries to be inserted into the charging.)))). Regarding longevity - for five years is enough confident. What else do you need? ... And, again, does lithium last longer ???
Author 0
Reply To quote A complaint
"A plate of dielectric material with wires for connecting an adjustable step-down power supply module to the battery compartment of the camera. A home-made plate. It is installed in the camera compartment for AA batteries.
My camera does not have a connector for connecting an external power supply, so I had to "fence the garden."
The length of the plate is equal to the length of the AA-type battery, and the width is the size of the compartment.
And with an ambush body.
+1
Reply To quote A complaint
The topic is not disclosed: how is the connection to the device made, input into the battery compartment, housing for the converter?

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