» Fixtures »Adjustable bracket for ball joint grinder

Adjustable bracket for ball joint grinder


Hello, friends.
The author of this homemade recently made repairs on the chassis of his car; as a result of the repair, old parts remained. Being a guy not stupid and even with properly grown hands, the author decided to make a bracket for an angle grinder, she is also a Bulgarian. The manufacturing process is very simple, and it will not require specific tools. And whoever doesn’t have an old ball valve in the coffers, it can easily be found at any car service station, I think there is enough such good with our roads.



Tools and materials.


Manufacturing process.
Actually all you need to do is make a transition under the grinder and fix the resulting bracket in a convenient place.
The author clamps the ball in a vice, puts a 17mm nut on the support rod, and since the threads on the ball and nut do not match, the author simply welds the nut.




Now you need to weld a 13mm connector nut onto an already welded nut.




The author drills holes on the desktop and fastens the bracket with screws.





To connect with the bracket, the grinder will need a stud or a long bolt, the cap of which can be cut off, which the author actually does. Two nuts are screwed onto the stud and two grovers are put on the edges of the stud.




The author winds the pin on the bracket, puts the grinder on the pin, screwing the pin into the hole where the handle used to be attached.




Fixes everything with two nuts. One nut is clamped to the bracket, the other will fix the grinder.
Well, that’s all, I’ve said that this is a simple home-made.




It's time to test the product. The master grinds the hairpin and at the same time the grinding machine does not deviate, does not vibrate and is well fixed. But if necessary, the author can easily change the angle of its inclination.
Thanks who read to the end, good ideas to you, bye, bye !!!





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12 comments
Author
Quote: Valery
Mechanics recommend changing ball joints,
This, I think, you yourself have come up with ....
In honor of what does it both change? )))) ... Strange some kind of mechanics! ...
What are the tie rod ends too? ... And the stabilizer struts (if any)? ))))
And how do they explain it ??? "At the same time, so as not to disassemble twice" - not a ride! Disassemble anyway, twice as much ... They're from different sides!
So why change them a couple?
Moreover, I remember the times when along the edges of roads there were holes in the asphalt, especially in the spring. So the left ball “experienced” three or four right!
This is now, without holes, they wear out about the same way ... And then !!! I accidentally hit somewhere with one wheel ... After some time, the ball joint, or the tip .... What, both change?))))
And if the car is big and the ball ones are not removable? Throw a good lever every time?
But, most importantly, WHY ????

You know, I don’t want to argue with you, this does not apply to homemade work at all, I don’t think such a problem is to find a ball joint.
Mechanics recommend changing ball joints,
This, I think, you yourself have come up with ....
In honor of what does it both change? )))) ... Strange some kind of mechanics! ...
What are the tie rod ends too? ... And the stabilizer struts (if any)? ))))
And how do they explain it ??? "At the same time, so as not to disassemble twice" - not a ride! Disassemble anyway, twice as much ... They're from different sides!
So why change them a couple?
Moreover, I remember the times when along the edges of roads there were holes in the asphalt, especially in the spring. So the left ball “experienced” three or four right!
This is now, without holes, they wear out about the same way ... And then !!! I accidentally hit somewhere with one wheel ... After some time, the ball joint, or the tip .... What, both change?))))
And if the car is big and the ball ones are not removable? Throw a good lever every time?
But, most importantly, WHY ????
Well, if so, it may converge.)))). But a very strange method for measuring nuts! )))
Well, it turns out that most often, a bolt of 12 is screwed only into a nut of 13, or by 14 ... (by selection method))) But now, it will not be screwed into a nut of its size))))
.... In this way, you can also mention the nut “under the pliers”.))) Let them guess what kind of thread there is ...)))) ..
Author
Quote: Valery
.. But we change the ball only when they begin to play ...

Mechanics recommend changing the ball pair, so if one of them has become unusable, the second one may still have some work resource, so it can be used.
Author

By the way, I didn’t see any nuts “13 mm” ... Like 17.

mean turnkey 13 and 17mm
threaded nuts indicates
Well, well, minute per minute! smile
By the way, I didn’t see any nuts “13 mm” ... Like 17.
Perhaps the author did not mean the thread, but the external "turnkey" size? scratch
Probably, the author in a strange way does not indicate the nuts by the thread, but by the key (according to the outer dimension). )))
17mm nut fits onto the support rod

Now you need to weld another 13mm connector nut


Sizes are gigantic ... In small, usually 8 mm thread (M8), handles with M10 are very rare, in large, 230's - M14
In the photo - small ... If I am not mistaken - "Farm-880". (I have two of them now, and several are already “in the trash”. There, the usual thread is M8.
By the way, I didn’t see any nuts “13 mm” ... Like 17 ..
And whoever doesn’t have an old ball valve in the coffers, it can be easily found at any car service station, I think there is enough of such good with our roads.

Is it customary for you to change ball ones there before they are loose? So far intact and tight?
... But here we change the ball only when they start backlash ... Like the tips ...
And in this state they are not suitable for this purpose ...)))
It is written: "For the grinder!" scratch
First they write what it is for.

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