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Starter upgrade

Probably many motorists are familiar with such a disaster that at the most inopportune moment the engine suddenly does not want to start. Something inside clicks under the hood, but the starter does not twist. So you sit, you click the ignition key back and forth, suddenly it starts up. I don’t know how on foreign cars, but on domestic auto such a problem exists, especially in those where old-style starters are used, with a large operating current. In my UAZ it’s just such a starter, and a year, three or four times, I had to deal with it. Remove the starter, disassemble it, clean the so-called five-copeck coins (copper contact bolts), the closing disk, and reassemble and install it. You can of course buy and install a new starter, probably many do so, but I felt sorry for something and wanted to solve this problem radically.
What is the reason for burning contacts? From sparking. Why sparks? Maybe because the starter is an inductive load and at the moment of its switching (on-off), the self-induction EMF arises. This same EMF, when the starter is turned off, does not immediately allow the voltage at its terminals to disappear. The magnitude of this EMF can be many times greater than the value of the vehicle's on-board network. And this voltage is applied to the terminals of the starter, as a result of which there is a phenomenon of electrical erosion, which destroys the material of the contacts.
You can solve this problem. Let us recall how we fought with sparking contacts in distributors on old ignition systems. There the nature of sparking is the same as in the starter. A capacitor was connected in parallel with the contacts of the distributor. In exactly the same way, you must do the same with the starter.
Starter upgrade

1-ignition switch; 2-battery 3-holding winding; 4-retractor starter winding; 5-starter.
The letters "B" and "M" indicate the contact bolts of the starter. They need to connect a capacitor.
It can be removed from the old board from the TV or monitor. There are plenty of capacitors in the high-voltage part of these circuit boards; they can all be used for voltage. With the capacitance of the capacitor, you can also not particularly bother (0.0047-0.47) microfarad is quite suitable.It is only necessary to lengthen the terminals of the capacitor and solder the tips to them under the starter bolts. Then close all open current-carrying parts with heat shrink, connect with a starter and somehow fix it so that it does not shake and does not dangle on the move. After that, it will be possible to forget about the problem of burning starter pyataks.
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4 commentary
arctic
The five-copeck coins burn not from the self-induction current, which is scanty in the starter due to its low inductance, but from the transcendent current when turned on. Can also put in the welding Conder, so as not to spark?
I have not heard more nonsense about the role of a capacitor in the ignition system.
Read the comment sans360. Man knows the topic. And at the same time study electrical engineering and electronics. Next time you will not print such nonsense.
The capacitor in the distributor to create a spark (at the moment of contact breaking, the capacitor charges through the ignition coil, a current surge occurs in the primary winding, respectively, a high-voltage pulse is induced in the secondary winding). To quench the energy of self-induction, diodes are used in the reverse connection, the pyatak capacitor will not save.
on my UAZ (402 dvig) contacts in the relay burned out, so I connected the retractor to the starter power cable. That is, when power is applied, both the starter and the retractor are simultaneously turned on. Starts up without any problems.
But I turn up wires ...)) This is in case of an emergency on the way.

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