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How to temper a Chinese knife?

Hello. I have to ask you. I saw on the Internet that you can harden a knife in graphite. But everything is superficial there. I have a knife that I like, but the trouble is that it does not hold the blade, you have to sharpen it often. I would have tempered it myself in the usual way, but it does not boil. I don’t know what steel, it picks up the magnet, it’s shiny itself, it’s been with me for three years now and does not rust. I bought from the Chinese. Please help, if you can harden in graphite, then how. What graphite, what voltage, current. Please in detail. With best regards, Vladimir.
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4 commentary
Valentine
A bad steel steel blade must first be made with a good steel blade. This is ordinary cementation. The process is quite simple provided that the output parameters are optional. We have a simple task to carbonize steel blade.
We take any tin, even the simplest tin can. Our task is to make two rectangular boxes with a width of about 5-7 centimeters and a side height of up to 1.5 centimeters. The length of the box is determined by the length of the blade + 3 cm. Then we need to burn coal or buy in a store. Ideally, oak then beech, birch, elm, alder, aspen. the coal is crushed to a piece size of no more than 1 cm. As you understand, we tightly pour the crushed coal into one box on top of the blade and put our coal on top again and cover it with another box on top.
The blade is placed in the center and its handle touches the edge of the box, while the tip will be 2-3 cm from the edge. The blade’s butt also fits near the edge, and the cutting edge is far from the opposite edge of the box.
In the best case, we coat the blade with clay so that all of its part except the cutting from the handle to the tip is coated. The edges of the coating should be no closer than 1.5 cm from the cutting edge. Then the clay is dried and warmed up.
After all this, as you understand, we make a fire so that the size of the coal heated under the fire under it is at least 10 cm larger than the size of your box.We pull the box with the blade with some kind of steel wire or nichrome, as I do and stack on the obtained coals, pour some of the coals from above. From above, again lay on top of 3-5 poles and thus support the bonfire until the moment when the box turns cherry. Cherry or red. Not critical. Then you support the fire for 5-6 hours, at times lifting a box from the ashes and adding freshly burnt coals under it. After 5-6 hours, you will already carbonize your blade to 0.8 mm or deeper. Here you should open the box and break the clay shell. Since your blade still maintains a certain temperature and you have enough coal, you put the blade back on even coals, sprinkle it with good hot coals to the top and with which thread of a blower or piece of plywood warm your blade to yellow and then carefully removing the blade from the coal you lower it in a working jar or in a bath horizontally. The volume of oil should be more than 1 liter. 2-3 is better. Or the oil will overheat and ignite. It is impossible to extinguish oil with water. Only cover with tarpaulin or cover with sand. The carburized part will be quenched at least 50 units, and previously closed with clay no higher than 30, as you had before. Then you heat the oven of your stove to the maximum. This is approximately 300 Celsius and you warm up the blade for a couple of hours.
That's all. Yes, it is necessary to transfer the red-hot blade with the appropriate tool in an upright position or with the butt up, so that the blade does not bend and before hardening, align it if there is a deflection.
Then do what you want with him.
The process of edge “hardening” in graphite can even be called quenching with a big “draw” .. Here it’s a little different - the edge is saturated with carbon — we get a thin edge of solid carbon steel. So the brand is not very important.
But the thing is different - with such a "kitchen" organization of a complex process, it is not known what we will get - a thin outgrowth of cast iron on the edge, or in general, dross. After all, neither currents are controlled nor temperature. No uniformity of the process. It is possible that bad Chinese steel simply burns out, forming caverns on the edge ....
P.S. Saying "bad Chinese steel" meant just bad! Because Chinese steel come in excellent quality! In the "pre-express" times, I bought on Tinidil, it seems, a hunting knife. (I took a chance - they could seize it at customs). I have been using it for about 10 years ... I have never met such steel anywhere else! After a walk through the woods, accompanied by chopping off, there is nothing to do to get all the twigs and shoots that come across (it's cool that they stand still for a while and then fall !!!), this knife shaves all the hair on the hand in one pass !!!! After sharpening, I polished it to a mirror and now only on polishing and let me down. More and did not sharpen. The only inconvenience - you need to be very careful with it - any touch of the blade is a cut.
Not knowing the brand began to try to temper even not worth it.

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