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Strong survival blade saw blade

Strong survival blade saw blade

If you have an old saw blade, you can make a great knife out of it. The author used a 16-inch drive for such purposes. With such a knife it will not be scary to go camping, and it’s not a shame to give a present. When creating, the most important thing is to adhere to safety rules, since we are talking about metalworking.


Materials and tools for homemade:

- saw blade 16 inches;
- grinder;
- belt grinding machine;
- felt-tip pen;
- whetted;
- wood and wood cutting tools to create pens;
- drill or drilling machine;
- matte black paint;
- epoxy;
- handle oil and more.


The process of making a knife:

Step one. Cut out the contour
First you need to come up with and find the shape of the blade, and then transfer to disk and cut.





Step Two Coarse rough grinding
Now the author polishes the blade on the sharpener, asking him the main form.





Step Three Belt machine
On the belt grinder, the desired blade angle is set. For grinding, the author used paper at 80, and then at 120.








Step Four Knife stop
The author decided to make a kind of crosshair on the knife, as they used to do with swords. To do this, you need to cut off another piece from the disk and set the desired shape for it. Well, then this piece of steel is fastened with screws to the wood and a slot is made in it so that the handle of the blade can go there.


















Step Five Pen making

The author made a pen from walnut. After sawing off the desired piece, the handle is polished to the desired profile. Further, so that she lay firmly in her hand, the author made 3 mm slits in it. The slots can be painted over with a black felt-tip pen to highlight the pen, and then it is ground again.


























In conclusion, a hole must be drilled in the handle so that a narrow part of the blade can enter it. You can drill several holes and then drill them with a file.

Step Six Quenching
For tempering, the author needed a can of canned food (suitable for paints, etc.). A gap is made in the lid into which the blade is inserted. Now the can is put on gas and due to the fact that it is closed, a high temperature is formed in it. After warming up the knife, the author dips it in oil.






















The final stage of hardening was the placement of the blade in the plate for an hour with a temperature of 205 degrees Celsius. Before that, he is also sharpened.




Seventh step. Fitting
At this point, the author checks to see if all the details fit together.











Step Eight. Pen detail
For the bottom of the knife, the author also cut out the part and set the desired shape for it.










Step Nine. Painting
The author paints all the metal parts of the knife in matt black. Then the parts again bake in the oven for one hour at a temperature of 205 degrees Celsius so that the paint adheres securely.
















Step Ten Final sharpening
The blade is sharpened to the state of the blade; it should cut paper without any problems. Sandpaper was used on 220 and 400 here.








Step 11. And back to the oven
Once again, the author puts the blade in the oven for an hour at a temperature of 205oC.







Step 12. Assembling the knife
To assemble the knife you need good glue, an epoxy is suitable. Also, the author used polyester putty in the lower part to level everything together.













Step 13. Finishing Grinding

Now the handle is well sanded to perfect smoothness.












To store a knife, you need to grease its blade with oil, and the handle can also be soaked with oil or other special impregnations.










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46 comments
Quote: Valery
And with regards to repair shops, there were such in each division of state farms.

And what are "units of state farms?" We had state farms only in small towns. And in the villages there are collective farms. And their structure is ONE central manor (there is a board, a tractor camp and a warehouse) and a bunch of small and large villages (in each brigade and team leader. But there are no administrative buildings there. There may be a livestock farm, for example, only a stable). But that collective farms were divided into units - this was not. MTS (not a mobile operator, but "machine-tractor stations") were located exclusively in cities.
When the collective farms were converted into SPK in the early 90s, changes occurred. The most “successful” ones developed, acquired their own meat and dairy plants and swallowed the lands of those SECs that turned out to be unprofitable. (As Lukashenko said: “Can’t you cope with the household? Can’t you give people a decent income? Give the land to someone who knows how and who gets it !!! And you go work as a simple field grower, I couldn’t do it with the president !!!”)) )). And now there are already offices with the administration in the former central estates of the former collective farms. But this is now, when the lands of one farm from end to end can stretch for 20 km! And then there were 10-15 villages on the collective farm. That is, from the central estate to a maximum in any direction of 8-10 kilometers ... What was the point in the units ???

Well, in the Soviet era, there were three so-called agrarian state farms (vegetables / meat, milk) and two fur farms. Fur farms, due to their specificity, were, let's say, so compact. But agricultural state farms occupied richer squares. For example, the Medvezhyegorsky state farm had a central estate in the village of Lumbushi, and the units (or plots if you like) were located in the village of Chebino (about 30 km from the central estate), and the other in the village. Shunga (60 km from the central manor in a different direction) and in between the farms also had repair shops (welding, a small lathe). But the Forges were far from everywhere.
And after the parade of sovereignty, the director of the dairy agreed with the chairman of the state farm and the state farm successfully went bankrupt and the director of the dairy state farm bought out and all this bacchanalia became known as CJSC Medvezhyegorsk Dairy, then the directors were forced to sell the shares (because the main block of shares (something about 90 %) was with the director), after which several changes of ownership took place and now this enterprise is successfully bending. A similar situation exists in the last remaining state farm (fur farms in the 90s both two poheril).
And with regards to repair shops, there were such in each division of state farms.

And what are "units of state farms?" We had state farms only in small towns. And in the villages there are collective farms. And their structure is ONE central manor (there is a board, a tractor camp and a warehouse) and a bunch of small and large villages (in each brigade and team leader. But there are no administrative buildings there. Maybe there is a livestock farm, for example, only a stable). But that collective farms were divided into units - this was not. MTS (not a mobile operator, but "machine-tractor stations") were located exclusively in cities.
When the collective farms were converted into SECs in the early 90s, changes occurred. The most “successful” ones developed, acquired their own meat and dairy plants and swallowed the lands of those SECs that turned out to be unprofitable. (As Lukashenko said: “Can’t you cope with the household? Can’t you give people a decent income? Give the land to someone who knows how and who gets it !!! And you go work as a simple field grower, I couldn’t do it with the president !!!”)) )). And now there are already offices with the administration in the former central estates of the former collective farms. But this is now, when the lands of one farm from end to end can stretch for 20 km! And then there were 10-15 villages on the collective farm. That is, from the central estate to a maximum in any direction of 8-10 kilometers ... What was the point in the units ???
Quote: Valery
Sir, you mentioned about 7 liters of cold water, so I’ll tell you that 10 plates and a couple of pots are enough to wash two times less water (a liter and a half hot and a half or two cold),

Well, except that in the wash basin)))). From under the tap, flowing, during this time much more will flow out.))))
and with regards to washing off coffee deposits, then everything is just like in that advertisement “don't let yourself dry”)))))))) That is, as soon as I drank it right away and rinsed it off for a short time)))

Well, firstly, there is often not enough time to "immediately".
And secondly .... So all the same, "rinse", or "rub with powder"? Or do you drink exclusively instant coffee and tea bags? )))). If anything, I love double espresso. (Not American, but double espresso. This is when two portions of espresso merge into one mug. I’m a coffee lover, I know that it’s bad ... but anyway, 8-10 mugs slip on the day. He no longer raises the pressure for me, but simply smoothes it out - at least without a mug of strong coffee I fall asleep badly ... That's right, and not vice versa!)))))))).

Sir, it’s 30-60 seconds to rinse the mug (it doesn’t matter instant coffee or brewed tea, like tea from the bag or normal) they don’t do any weather))))
With regards to running water, do not open the tap to the jet as from a hose))))
I don’t know what collective farms and state farms were in your region in the late 70s, but here in Karelia the state farms were very well mechanized.
If we talk about mowing, then manually mowed only on very rugged or very wetlands. Well, people were kicked out to harvest (potatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbage). With regards to potatoes, so the potatoes were collected after the mechanical digging machine, well, they picked up for the combine harvester that the harvester did not hook.
And with regards to repair shops, there were such in each division of state farms. The only thing for which it was necessary to go to the central estates was for serious new spare parts (a crankshaft there, for example, or a new piston). And so everything was rebuilt in place.
For any where at least a few pieces of equipment are permanently available, not only a forge but also a lathe with milling machines should be available,

So they are "there" just on the tractor camp !. And sometimes they only come to the village to work ... And they also go to the camp to be repaired ... And before the camp from our village, we had to go through another one like that))). 8 km in total ... (According to the concepts - a worker needs to spend a day to get there, work and get back))))
And that's not the point ... Remember the end of the 70s - the beginning of the 80s ... Horse mowers ... Horse "rake" ... Manual labor in the fields ... Stables in every village ...Forges for this were ...
..Yes, and "those masters", to which my grandfather belonged (he was 7th year of birth. 1907th!), Did not know much about milling work ...)))). But about the blacksmiths - they knew everything ...
... Come on ... And then Nikolai will soon ban us for offtopic ...)))))
....
Sir, you mentioned about 7 liters of cold water, so I’ll tell you that 10 plates and a couple of pots are enough to wash two times less water (a liter and a half hot and a half or two cold),

Well, except that in the wash basin)))). From under the tap, flowing, during this time much more will flow out.))))
and with regards to washing off a coffee coating, everything is just like in that advertisement “don't let yourself dry”)))))))) That is, as soon as I drank it right away and rinsed it off and for a short time)))

Well, firstly, there is often not enough time to "immediately".
And secondly .... So all the same, "rinse", or "rub with powder"? Or do you drink exclusively instant coffee and tea bags? )))). If anything, I love double espresso. (Not American, but double espresso. This is when two portions of espresso merge into one mug. I’m a coffee lover, I know that it’s bad ... but anyway, 8-10 mugs slip on the day. He no longer raises the pressure for me, but simply smoothes it out - at least without a mug of strong coffee I fall asleep badly ... That's right, and not vice versa!)))))))).
Quote: Valery
With regards to hot water, I didn’t have such a centralized supply, and there was wood titanium standing and standing to receive one. )))) So the car dishwasher is by no means critical for me, and it won’t kill me a lot of time to wash my plate, and as far as mugs, if you don’t have hygiene in them, then after each use it is enough to rinse with water without any detergents / cleaners) )))
And I categorically disagree with your thesis that I don’t wash glassware at a time and even polish with a towel (I don’t think that you have a kind of “narzan” flowing from the tap, that is, water with a high content of soluble minerals).
Well, to compare a car dishwasher with a car wash is somewhat not correct, the labor costs here are completely incomparable. Here in a restaurant / cafe / dining room with a large flow of visitors, but a car dishwasher is relevant. And at home, even with frequent influx of guests, it is never relevant.

Someday you will try and remember my words .... Someone without the Internet now lives and does not steam ... And without a cell ... And I agree that you can live like that ... ONLY WHY ???
Especially if there is no hot water ...
Regarding glassware that is easily washed away, I can only say that the entire “pattern” on it is made by small embossing ... such as frequent small pimples ... But the water is ordinary. (Although not the same as in some cities , I heard .. You can’t drink without boiling). But she is not distilled ...
As for the mugs with "unsanitary conditions, I honestly don’t know how coffee, or even tea, is so easily rinsed with white color ... I have to rub it))))
In general ... Try - you will understand ...
I didn’t specifically buy the first one either - I drove a friend from Frankfurt, but he refused ... He built himself ...

Sir, you mentioned about 7 liters of cold water, so I’ll tell you that 10 plates and a couple of pots are enough to wash two times less water (a liter and a half hot and a half to two cold), and with regards to washing off coffee, that's all just like in that advertisement "do not let yourself dry")))))))) That is, as soon as I drank so immediately and rinsed off and all for a short time))))
Well, then, in order to drive a central estate for every bolt, I won’t believe it for anything. For any where at least a few pieces of equipment are permanently available, not only a forge but also a lathe with milling machines should be available, and I don’t say anything about the trivial emery))) Especially in Soviet times, when the machines were ordered, in independence need a machine there or not)))
But to make the plate thinner by forging is excuse me.And the fact that in a village where for the whole wilderness one copier wasn’t in the RMM of a milling or grinding machine (and this, if there is a forge), I won’t believe it for anything.

Well ... everyone has their own opinion ... Anyway, milling, or flattening - and then it will have to be fired ... It’s not hardened ...
And about the village ... The workshops were in the "Collective Farm Center" - in that village where the collective farm’s board is ... In the rest of the villages there are only forges, and even not in all. In the small ones (20-30 yards) and they didn’t exist ... But it’s not like in Ukraine, for example, that there can be 500 yards in a village ... We have 100 yards — this is already a large village . It's just that they are often "seeded" - 2-5 km from village to village. There are 10-20 villages on the collective farm. Each village has its own brigade with a foreman ... and that’s all))). The maximum is a forge to fix something. And the workshops are already in the center of the collective farm, in the same place as the board, the tractor mill and so on ...
P.S. I’m talking about my childhood ... Now it’s not so. Small villages are completely cleaned as the tenants “die”, the remaining ones are moved to “agro-towns” - we made such a thing from large villages - the same village, only we built more cottages (they resettle there), and the necessary infrastructure in the form of a clinic, a school, kindergarten, hospital, post office and other things ... Well, outwardly - the sidewalks are good, all streets are illuminated without exception, the fences along them are the same and beautiful due to the budget and so on. The policy of attracting people to the countryside is underway - there is a sea of ​​work in the village, and there is no one to work, the SEC are bent, people are being taken from cities to work ...
With regards to hot water, I didn’t have such a centralized supply, and there was wood titanium standing and standing to receive one. )))) So the car dishwasher is by no means critical for me, and it won’t kill me a lot of time to wash my plate, and as far as mugs, if you don’t have hygiene in them, then after each use it is enough to rinse with water without any detergents / cleaners) )))
And I categorically disagree with your thesis that I don’t wash glassware at a time and even polish with a towel (I don’t think that you have a kind of “narzan” flowing from the tap, that is, water with a high content of soluble minerals).
Well, to compare a car dishwasher with a car wash is somewhat not correct, the labor costs here are completely incomparable. Here in a restaurant / cafe / dining room with a large flow of visitors, but a car dishwasher is relevant. And at home, even with frequent influx of guests, it is never relevant.

Someday you will try and remember my words .... Someone without the Internet now lives and does not steam ... And without a cell ... And I agree that you can live like that ... ONLY WHY ???
Especially if there is no hot water ...
Regarding glassware that is easily washed away, I can only say that the entire “pattern” on it is made by small embossing ... such as frequent small pimples ... But the water is ordinary. (Although not the same as in some cities , I heard .. You can’t drink without boiling). But she is not distilled ...
As for the mugs with "unsanitary conditions, I honestly don’t know how coffee, or even tea, is so easily rinsed with white color ... I have to rub it))))
In general ... Try - you will understand ...
I didn’t specifically buy the first one either - I drove a friend from Frankfurt, but he refused ... He built himself ...
Quote: Valery
Py. Sy. At the expense of aggressive kitchen chemicals and dishwashers.
I think it makes sense to acquire a car dishwasher only when a large number of dishes are used at a time and when you live alone or together, then wash 1-2-5-6 plates and a couple of pots and pans manually is not so stressful, believe me, I know what I'm talking about because it was possible in one mug to wash only plates of 400 pieces per day, and this is not counting the cisterns and other kitchen utensils including trays.

A very common misconception. I heard it often.And some who told me this, after they bought the dishwasher, themselves agreed that this was a mistake! (I bought it for a very long time, somewhere in the 2000th I bought the first one. Now they are almost all, and then many thought that they were "bust")))).
Will explain. The machine, of course, consumes electricity, but greatly saves hot water and, most importantly, TIME !!! Here we have a family of three. In the morning - three mugs (cups) three plates, several knives in oil .. At lunchtime - six to eight plates, three more mugs, a few more spoon-forks-knives ... In the evening - again several plates, mugs, cups, saucers. Try it all just to pile together! HIS MUCH! Add here a few pots and some pans (a special "romance" to wash them)))) !!.
And all this during the day you can simply put it in the dishwasher. In the evening add pans with pots there, press a button and go to bed !!! And she will wash it all VERY QUALITATIVELY !! (For example, glass dishes with your hands will not work at once without rubbing with a towel. And we have all the dishes from white glass.). And uses seven liters of cold water for this.
Believe me, you feel the effect of the dishwasher later. Remember the effect of the washing machine? After all, before the purchase, it also seemed that it was not so much more convenient than usual.))))
And when the guests (And we have guests very often for some reason) - generally a buzz!))))

With regards to hot water, I didn’t have such a centralized supply, and there was wood titanium standing and standing to receive one. )))) So the car dishwasher is by no means critical for me, and it won’t kill me a lot of time to wash my plate, and as far as mugs, if you don’t have hygiene in them, then after each use it is enough to rinse with water without any detergents / cleaners) )))
And I categorically disagree with your thesis that I don’t wash glassware at a time and even polish with a towel (I don’t think that you have a kind of “narzan” flowing from the tap, that is, water with a high content of soluble minerals).
Well, to compare a car dishwasher with a car wash is somewhat not correct, the labor costs here are completely incomparable. Here in a restaurant / cafe / dining room with a large flow of visitors, but a car dishwasher is relevant. And at home, even with frequent influx of guests, it is never relevant.
As for the valves used in the Soviet automotive tractor technology, everything was just on the tractors, there were seamless valves, valves with sodium cooling were on the GAZ-53 exhaust tract.
Yes, and at the expense of vacation and hardening.
And now the attention is the question: Why the hell does it ask to let go of something that already lends itself to fur. machining on a milling or grinding machine or even the most ordinary emery?
I understand the meaning of forging when you need, for example, to make a round plate from a round plate or from a bar.
But to make the plate thinner by forging is excuse me. And the fact that in a village where for the whole wilderness one copier wasn’t in the RMM of a milling or grinding machine (and this, if there is a forge), I won’t believe it for anything.
Quote: den_sibirskiy
A knife made of titanium is generally something fabulous, I hope not what was said to me)) Titanium unless the material is warm, unlike other metals, because It has low thermal conductivity, the people do not cool the hand and has only purely cosmetic use.
Any art knife should be in operation, on the shelf this is stupidity in my opinion, I cut my meat, sometimes it’s frozen, I’m not a hunter, but I obviously need to have such a knife at home.
And I speak about steels in what sense, not that it is imported and it’s better than torsion or valve, I mean, some can crumble, some can let it sit down quickly, if you make a knife, it will be a shame to find out after so many efforts that it crumbles or sits down quickly. I met a hunting knife, bought in a store, even with some engraving there, but its sharpening at the base was so bent, it was still sharp but as if it had been chewed, the owner tried so hard. A very hard knife, just try to sharpen it again, and soft ones sat down almost from paper.
Something like a knife, even though it was made using technology, I was worried, it was unpleasant to use, even though it is solid.
Everyone certainly has their own experience, I decided for myself, if I still do something there, I will do at least one of what I’m sure of, without chasing fashion and pathos, I have no experience, so at least I can ask who knows for sure whether or not to take this. You yourself say, this one, for example, rusts, but this one is not a very important factor.

With regards to the knives made of titanium, those were made of blades of a jet engine. But the experiment was unsuccessful because as already mentioned, the sharpening did not hold if they cut something a little harder than the warm shit)))
In my opinion, the knife should not have a tendency to bend when cutting something heterogeneous (for example, unevenly frozen / thawed meat) even if after the completion / termination of the action the knife takes its original shape. But at the same time, the knife should not be fragile, i.e. such recommendations as “do not hit with a hammer on a knife” should not be relevant for a normal knife.
And based on my experience of using and making knives, I came to the conclusion that there is no better torsion steel for making a knife. Although it is difficult to sharpen it from the very beginning, I think this drawback is more than paid for by the fact that you have to sharpen a knife once every 3-5 years, especially since this can be done using an ordinary fine-grained emery (a machine with a fine-grained grinding stone).
As for the rusting of torsion steel, as already mentioned, this steel is not very susceptible to corrosion, even if it lies on the street for a month in the rain, then only a pale yellow transparent coating appears on the blade and nothing more.
Py. Sy. At the expense of aggressive kitchen chemicals and dishwashers.
I think it makes sense to acquire a car dishwasher only when a large number of dishes are used at a time and when you live alone or together, then wash 1-2-5-6 plates and a couple of pots and pans manually is not so stressful, believe me, I know what I'm talking about because it was possible in one mug to wash only plates of 400 pieces a day, and this is not counting the cisterns and other kitchen utensils including trays.

A very common misconception. I heard it often. And some who told me this, after they bought the dishwasher, themselves agreed that this was a mistake! (I bought it for a very long time, somewhere in the 2000th I bought the first one. Now they are almost all, and then many thought that they were "bust")))).
Will explain. The machine, of course, consumes electricity, but greatly saves hot water and, most importantly, TIME !!! Here we have a family of three. In the morning - three mugs (cups) three plates, several knives in oil .. At lunchtime - six to eight plates, three more mugs, a few more spoon-forks-knives ... In the evening - again several plates, mugs, cups, saucers. Try it all just to pile together! HIS MUCH! Add here a few pots and some pans (a special "romance" to wash them)))) !!.
And all this during the day you can simply put it in the dishwasher. In the evening add pans with pots there, press a button and go to bed !!! And she will wash it all VERY QUALITATIVELY !! (For example, glass dishes with your hands will not work this way at a time without rubbing with a towel. And we have all the dishes made of white glass.). And uses seven liters of cold water for this.
Believe me, you feel the effect of the dishwasher later. Remember the effect of the washing machine? After all, before the purchase, it also seemed that it was not so much more convenient than usual.))))
And when the guests (And we have guests very often for some reason) - generally a buzz!))))
Well, actually, springs are made from slightly different steel than torsion bars do. I would even say it is simpler from steel than torsion bars, something like spring steel is used in springs.

That is why I took the word "spring" in quotation marks - to show its properties, not its appearance ...Or do you think that torsion steel does not spring? That is, when twisting, for example, it is deformed, and remains in this position, without returning to its original shape? )))) .. Or immediately bursts during deformation, without springing a drop ????
With regards to the valves, in principle, any seamlessly drawn ones (at least inlet, at least outlet) go, but the components to which the plate is welded and the outlet with sodium are in no way suitable for knives,

I don’t know which valves were used in cars and tractors in the 70s, to be honest ...)))) But the knife from the valve was forged under the guidance of my grandfather. And he was good ...
With regards to the loss of steel properties after forging, by no means all steel loses its properties,

Do not "distort" ..))). I said that after forging, Hardening will not be preserved, and not the properties of steel. Remember: you said that only the cutting part is hardened, and I replied that it would be forged anyway ... Or do you seriously think that heating the workpiece “to white” will not let it go and it will not have to be fired again? ))))
But in order to forge a plate with a thickness of 4 mm, this is already in my bust, in this case, milling and grinding machines are better suited or in the worst case, emery.

But as for me, it’s easier to flatten after the heat. After all, it’s still necessary to harden for hardening, so why, after vacation, look for a milling machine operator, or access to a milling machine? Moreover, as I mentioned, it was a long time ago and in the village ... The forge was there, but the milling workers did not meet often!))). Yes, there was generally deafness - there was only one copier for the whole village! xaxa )))))
Well, at the expense of "grab a half a circle of village sausage", then I suppose the knife is not needed at all))))) I broke off my hands for a short time)))))
From here, I fully agree with you! )))) .. And the wife for some reason does not accept such simple truths ... Well .. Women always had a tight logic with logic.))))
A knife made of titanium is generally something fabulous, I hope not what was said to me)) Titanium unless the material is warm, unlike other metals, because It has low thermal conductivity, the people do not cool the hand and has only purely cosmetic use.
Any art knife should be in operation, on the shelf this is stupidity in my opinion, I cut my own meat, sometimes it’s frozen, I’m not a hunter, but I obviously need to have such a knife at home.
And I speak about steels in what sense, not that it is imported and it’s better than torsion or valve, I mean, some can crumble, some can let it sit down quickly, if you make a knife, it will be a shame to find out after so many efforts that it crumbles or sits down quickly. I met a hunting knife, bought in a store, even with some engraving there, but its sharpening at the base was so bent, it was still sharp but as if it had been chewed, the owner tried so hard. A very hard knife, just try to sharpen it again, and soft ones sat down almost from paper.
Something like a knife, even though it was made using technology, I was worried, it was unpleasant to use, even though it is solid.
Everyone certainly has their own experience, I decided for myself, if I still do something there, I will do at least one of what I’m sure of, without chasing fashion and pathos, I have no experience, so at least I can ask who knows for sure whether or not to take this. You yourself say, this one, for example, rusts, but this one is not a very important factor.
Quote: den_sibirskiy
With all due respect, I myself do not really understand steel. Yes, there the torsion bar and the valve are cut, and knives are made of them, but guys, this is complete nonsense, not all torsion bars are probably made of steel alone.
Steel grade, that is what guarantees certain cutting qualities initially, there are certain parameters guaranteeing certain qualities and hardness.
If you cut with a knife from a certain steel, then you already know what to expect from it. It’s not for me to teach you, you already know all this. There are a lot of imported and Russian knife steels, and to understand what it costs, you can only communicate with them tightly, in general, that is why there is no particular experience.It remains only to buy ready-made blades from specialists in this matter, because only this ensures that what you bought has exactly the qualities that reveal it. Why have a knife made of certain steel if you haven’t heated it, heated it, or else somehow violated the technology.
Even a single steel grade with different input data has different hardness, and therefore different qualities, which sometimes need to be artificially lowered or overestimated. For example, a hard knife with a hardness of 60 or more rockwells in winter becomes even more fragile in the cold, while at 48-50 units you can no longer really strain and not worry that it will break when processing something.
Personally, I do not like something weaker than 55 units, because this is also very important. So, I don’t presume when to talk about this or that steel, because did not deal with them. My mentor has been engaged all his life
basically only 40X13 and now he knows how to get what is needed from her.
With all this knowledge, making a knife from torsion or valve steel looks ridiculous, the knife will certainly cut, maybe even cutting this knife will be fine, but it's crazy. How then to explain to a person that his valve steel knife is not the same as a knife from M390, D2, Elmax or other imported steel. And what will be the use of imported steel with its index of retention of the cutting edge, if you deviate a little from the technology of its hardening or the set temperature.
Therefore, I came to the conclusion that having no experience with a certain steel, it would be easier to buy it ready for its not cheap price than to make an incomprehensible knife and be proud that you made a real miracle.

Sir, as a colleague correctly noted, everything depends on why you need a knife, if you need a knife as a decoration on the wall or as a props in a theater, then such moments as durability and holding of sharpening are absolutely not critical. But if you need a knife in order to take it on hunting and camping trips, or even just to work on the housework, then durability and holding of sharpening just come to the fore. So, for example, if you make a knife, for example, from tool steel (steel of “X” grade), then such a knife will be sharpened, BUT it will be very fragile because this steel is high carbon and such a knife will break just when it falls onto a hard surface. And if you make a knife, for example, from the most ordinary steel 3, then such a knife will be soft as a snot and will not hold sharpening. But if you make it from a spring or spring, then it will hold the sharpening better than the steel knife 3 and will not be so flexible, but will not hold lateral loads, i.e. if during cutting something to give a load across the blade, then such a knife, although with greater difficulty than a knife made of tool steel, will still break, and will stupid when trying to cut the wire.
But from the torsion bar, the knife is devoid of all these shortcomings, the steel wire (so stiff which is difficult to bend) cuts at least a millimeter thick at a time and does not appear on the blade or iron.
By the way, oddly enough, but the titanium knives do not hold a sharpening at all.
Quote: Valery
not all torsion bars are probably made from the same steel.
A brand may not be one, but the properties are identical. Steel "spring" ... Its hardness will be huge, that's for sure. And at the same time, not fragile ...

Well, actually, springs are made from slightly different steel than torsion bars do. I would even say it is simpler from steel than torsion bars, something like spring steel is used in springs.
With regards to the valves, in principle, any seamless (at least inlet, at least outlet) valves are used, but the components to which the plate is welded and the outlet with sodium are in no way suitable for knives, except that with sodium filler it is possible after appropriate refinement and sodium removal as punches to use.
With regards to the loss of properties of steel after forging, not all steel loses its properties, the same notorious torsion does not lose its properties.
There is also the so-calledpopularly, self-hardening steel, for example fingers connecting tracks in tractor tracks, after forging they retain their properties but if after forging the workpiece is sharply cooled, then it becomes brittle.
But in order to forge a plate with a thickness of 4 mm, this is already in my bust, in this case, milling and grinding machines are better suited or in the worst case, emery.
Well, at the expense of "grab a half a circle of village sausage", then I suppose the knife is not needed at all))))) I broke off my hands for a short time)))))
Py. Sy. At the expense of aggressive kitchen chemicals and dishwashers.
I think it makes sense to acquire a car dishwasher only when a large number of dishes are used at a time and when you live alone or together, then wash 1-2-5-6 plates and a couple of pots and pans manually is not so stressful, believe me, I know what I'm talking about because it was possible in one mug to wash only plates of 400 pieces a day, and this is not counting the cisterns and other kitchen utensils including trays.
Whatever knife is good, but without a hole and a rope this is nonsense)))) In general, I propose not to consider knives without a hole and a rope)))
not all torsion bars are probably made from the same steel.
A brand may not be one, but the properties are identical. Steel "spring" ... Its hardness will be huge, that's for sure. And at the same time, not fragile ...
You, too, like my previous opponent, talk about "other approaches" ...
I'm talking about making a knife out of good (albeit black) steel, which, for example, can then be chopped for a long time and easily with tops of beets))))). Or another to the kitchen. With a thin glue and not rusting from the "kitchen chemistry" ... And it does not matter HOW THEY ARE LOOKING, it is important - ease of use ... I am a pragmatist.)))
..And you are talking about “knives for the soul”, which “can be admired”, which themselves “have character” .... (I just figuratively tried to convey the direction of thought) ..
What I saw is about 4 mm. On maya will))). On the knife ... Well, not on the kitchen for sure.
It’s just that in the village we had a blacksmith shop, and my grandfather was someone there, such as a respected guest.))) I mean, the blacksmith was always happy, and the grandfather could always go at any time and forge what he needed ...
I always went with him as a kid. And he forged knives both from valves and from "rail saws" (scraps, naturally). And then he explained to me about both “blacksmithing welding” and how to “burn out excess carbon” by forging, so that the knife would not turn out to be brittle ...
... By the way, yes ... I remember that from the same saws they did "household machetes" in the village)))). In order to chop something for livestock and so on. But then they were no longer forged, in my opinion ...
By the way, the valve (I hardly remember), he said that not everyone fits. Intake roofing felts, exhaust roofing felts, but they are of different metal. And in some there was even a bookmark of some metal, self-igniting in the air. Even so.
No ... You probably just didn’t see this canvas ... IT IS THICK !!

most likely we are talking about different saws or canvases. In the early 90s, I worked for a couple of years on the railway. fitter of the way. So, our canvases were thin, we sharpened them, we made a pen, it turned out to be a primitive machete. Then they chopped bushes along the blade, young growth.
Dear even the same sausage, cut with a wide hard knife is much more convenient than flexible as a snot with a narrow carpet, there is already a thread on the sausage, rather than cutting a piece))))

... Yes laaaaaaaaaaaaa! ))). I do not believe!!! ))) So, just take and grab a half ring of the village "finger" sausage in order to be able to make it with a onion and bread, more convenient with a wide knife? ... No, I don’t agree! )))
P.S. and if you cut a thicker one and “eat with a fork”, then you haven’t done this with a knife for a long time ... Why then is there a slicer in the kitchen ??? Moreover, in it you set the thickness to millimeters by a second turn of the handwheel, and the cutting angle ...
With regards to the torsion bars ("they are usually painted"), the paint tends to peel off, in other words, it remains in places a bit)))) and this is where the paint peeled off on the torsion bar from rust is just a touch.

... Damn ... It touches me so much how seriously you take everything .... (Just in case: if there are several brackets at the end of the sentence, it means that the above is a joke !! ... Well, you, right? It’s like you use this technique yourself)))).
And another moment, if you throw a piece of iron into the water for a couple of hours

Well, yes ... Only here, in a plate with water, the knife is usually placed only partially ... And wipe ??? Fuck me a knife in the kitchen, which also requires care ??? Utensils are loaded into the dishwasher, usually in the evening. And it gets in the morning !!! (Or do you like to wait a long time while the car washes?) And the utensils are not wiped there! She dries there after rinsing with clean water !! And before that - washing aggressive "chemistry" ....
And what, is it convenient to have a knife in the kitchen that needs to be washed separately, manually, and even wiped?
Understand, we are just talking about different cuisines!))) You are about professional, I am about home.
And another nuance about rail saws, I already mentioned that in those saws only cutting elements were hardened, or teeth.

No ... You probably just didn’t see this canvas ... IT IS THICK !! Nobody cuts knives out of it !! Knives are forged from it! Use it as material! (Metal is good just)
I will use your technique and explain to you the obvious things: Let it be known to you, sir, that after forging, no results of the previous hardening are saved! ))).
By the way, there is still very good metal in circular knives that were placed on three-body plows in front of the hulls (for cutting turf when plowing virgin lands). Of these, knives were also forged.
But, I repeat, with my TZ, all of these knives are good, like technical ones. For the kitchen - stainless steel.
With all due respect, I myself do not really understand steel. Yes, there the torsion bar and the valve are cut, and knives are made of them, but guys, this is complete nonsense, not all torsion bars are probably made of steel alone.
Steel grade, that is what guarantees certain cutting qualities initially, there are certain parameters guaranteeing certain qualities and hardness.
If you cut with a knife from a certain steel, then you already know what to expect from it. It’s not for me to teach you, you already know all this. There are a lot of imported and Russian knife steels, and to understand what it costs, you can only communicate with them tightly, in general, that is why there is no particular experience. It remains only to buy ready-made blades from specialists in this matter, because only this ensures that what you bought has exactly the qualities that reveal it. Why have a knife made of certain steel if you haven’t heated it, heated it, or else somehow violated the technology.
Even a single steel grade with different input data has different hardness, and therefore different qualities, which sometimes need to be artificially lowered or overestimated. For example, a hard knife with a hardness of 60 or more rockwells in winter becomes even more fragile in the cold, while at 48-50 units you can no longer really strain and not worry that it will break when processing something.
Personally, I do not like something weaker than 55 units, because this is also very important. So, I don’t presume when to talk about this or that steel, because did not deal with them. My mentor has been engaged all his life
basically only 40X13 and now he knows how to get what is needed from her.
With all this knowledge, making a knife from torsion or valve steel looks ridiculous, the knife will certainly cut, maybe even cutting this knife will be fine, but it's crazy. How then to explain to a person that his valve steel knife is not the same as a knife from M390, D2, Elmax or other imported steel. And what will be the use of imported steel with its index of retention of the cutting edge, if you deviate a little from the technology of its hardening or the set temperature.
Therefore, I came to the conclusion that having no experience with a certain steel, it would be easier to buy it ready for its not cheap price than to make an incomprehensible knife and be proud that you made a real miracle.
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Quote: Dvulikiy
during a naval career, so to speak, to substitute cooks,
Probably, how long has it been? Apparently, you, nevertheless, replaced Coca?

Sir, it is not important for a long time or recently replaced, it is important that neither in the merchant fleet nor in the navy there are NO "cook" positions, there is the position COOKING SHIP and COOKING SHIP respectively.
Quote: Valery
I'm not going to argue ....
... Well ... Not in the sense that I’m so proud, and I’m not going to argue with you!))) And in terms of the fact that I’m far from being special in knives and steels, and therefore I don’t argue will. The only thing I don’t agree with is about the rail saw. There, unlike the circular ones with a win, the disk is solid, there are no solders on it. Accordingly, it is made of a homogeneous metal, which was well released and just as hot. (Although, judging by the Soviet times, too, maybe now they’re cutting rails with a victory)))). And then for the disks that are already worn out, everyone chased to make a diverse tool out of them. The disks are large, because they were enough for everyone)))). And I made a knife. But in the kitchen it is not aesthetic - black steel. And if the hostess throws into a basin of water and forgets for a couple of hours, then she will rust ...
“Feed 10-15 people” is almost professional ... In my kitchen, knives are used ... well, to cut something))) ... After all, even bread is sold cutted now, and all shredders and slices are performed combines and slicers)))). Even my greens are crushed not with a knife, but by cutting a bunch with scissors with five blades)))) ... And therefore, in my "unprofessional" kitchen, only disk knives for pizza and the like, knife-shovels for cakes and pies, and several universal knives with a small blade (12-15 cm) ... Naturally, everything is stainless steel and without wood ...
Sir, have you ever seen a rusty torsion bar?

Not. Usually they are painted.))))))

Dear even the same sausage, cut with a wide hard knife is much more convenient than flexible as a snot with a narrow carpet, there is already a thread on the sausage, rather than cutting a piece))))
With regards to the torsion bars ("they are usually painted"), the paint tends to peel off, in other words, it remains in places a bit)))) and this is where the paint peeled off on the torsion bar from rust is just a touch.
And another moment, if you throw a piece of iron into the water for a couple of hours (and even more), being in the water so simply does not rust. Rusting begins only then the wet piece of iron begins to come into contact with the oxygen in the air. Those. if you get a knife and immediately wipe it dry, then there will be no rust on the knife.
And another nuance about rail saws, I already mentioned that in those saws only cutting elements were hardened, or teeth.
For fun, go to the household. magician and look at the unpainted hacksaw blades, there you can clearly see by the colors of the tarnish where the heat treatment was carried out.
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Probably, how long has it been? Apparently, you, nevertheless, replaced Coca?

Sir, it’s not at all a long time since it was or recently, but the fact that in the Navy and in the Navy such a position as a cook just DOES NOT EXIST, there is a COOKING SHIP post.
I'm not going to argue ....
... Well ... Not in the sense that I’m so proud, and I’m not going to argue with you!))) And in terms of the fact that I’m far from being special in knives and steels, and therefore I don’t argue will. The only thing I don’t agree with is about the rail saw. There, unlike the circular ones with a win, the disk is solid, there are no solders on it. Accordingly, it is made of a homogeneous metal, which was well released and just as hot. (Although, judging by the Soviet times, too, maybe now they’re cutting rails with a victory)))). And then for the disks that are already worn out, everyone chased to make a diverse tool out of them. The disks are large, because they were enough for everyone)))). And I made a knife. But in the kitchen it is not aesthetic - black steel. And if the hostess throws into a basin of water and forgets for a couple of hours, then she will rust ...
“Feed 10-15 people” is almost professional ... In my kitchen, knives are used ...well, to cut something))) ... After all, even bread is sold cutted now, and all shredders and slices are performed by combines and slicers)))). Even my greens are crushed not with a knife, but by cutting a bunch with scissors with five blades)))) ... And therefore, in my "unprofessional" kitchen, only disk knives for pizza and the like, knife-shovels for cakes and pies, and several universal knives with a small blade (12-15 cm) ... Naturally, everything is stainless steel and without wood ...
Sir, have you ever seen a rusty torsion bar?

Not. Usually they are painted.))))))
Quote: Dvulikiy
during a naval career, so to speak, to substitute cooks,
Probably, how long has it been? Apparently, you, nevertheless, replaced Coca?
Quote: Valery
From the torsion bar, I do not know, to be honest. But from a rail saw, they rust and much .. And I had a knife from the valve, so it rusted, as you put it, very "reluctantly." That is, if wiped dry, it does not rust at all. And it’s not at all fragile if it’s good to forge it on a white heat. (Burn off excess carbon).
.. As for the “cook” knives, I’m not talking about professionals ... As an example, I see that for cutting vegetables and chopping everything else, cooks often use large knives, and even wide “cutters” ... And at home in my kitchen and my women knives with a long blade greater than 150 mm are never used !!! There are several of these (Accumulated over 20 years ...))) were in sets.). Lie new. Recently, one who cuts better, made a small one out of it. So at least it will be used ...
And about sharpening ... A professional chef just needs a knife that holds the sharpener for a long time, because he needs to chop as much as a day for my wife for three months!))) ...
And at home ... I can hardly imagine how my wife or daughter bring the cutting edge with a file.)))). And therefore, every six months or a year I take away all the knives, go to my basement and sharpen them, finishing this very edge. And they just stretch it once before cutting through a sharpener. And then knives are thrown into the next drawer, which "still cut badly anyway" As I fill it, I go to the basement)))). By the way, I took the disk drives - they really do a lot of killing. Left a few "dovetail" with an adjustable angle. And he ordered not to push - to stretch purely under the weight of a hand with a knife.

Sir, have you ever seen a rusty torsion bar? I somehow didn’t see a rusty torsion, I saw it with a rusty coating and so that the torsion rusted like steel 3, well, I never saw it.
With regards to kitchen knives. Believe me, a good knife greatly facilitates and speeds up the processing (preparation) of products.
It’s just that your home cooks didn’t try to cook using just such a cook knife.
Although I’m not a professional chef, believe me, I’m talking about what (during the naval career I had occasion to replace cooks, cook for 10-15 people).
As for the rail saw, the situation is the same as with the circular, in other words, only the cutting part (teeth) is hardened, and there the material is about the same as various kinds of circulars, only the thickness is a little more to give strength.
A chip of a knife from an industrial homogenizer crusher has been lying for a long time. I am not good at stainless steel grades (I don’t remember now. I need to raise documents), but when I ordered metal for a new knife, I was surprised at its price !!! This stainless steel is five times more expensive than even heat-resistant. (Not to mention ordinary and heat-resistant). I’ll try to make a knife out of it ... There it is 6 mm thick, it will be very problematic to remove ... At least they don’t take cobalt drills (I tried to drill a hole) And at the same time, before breaking, the knife bent into the wheel (T .e., not fragile) .. Well there, the truth was that the cage of a large bearing flew up and met with him when it rotated at a speed of 30,000 rpm)))) ...
... And many believe that stainless steel can not be as solid as "rust" ....
From the torsion bar, I don’t know, to be honest.But from a rail saw, they rust and much .. And I had a knife from the valve, so it rusted, as you put it, very "reluctantly." That is, if wiped dry, it does not rust at all. And it’s not at all fragile if it’s good to forge it on a white heat. (Burn off excess carbon).
.. As for the “cook” knives, I’m not talking about professionals ... As an example, I see that for cutting vegetables and chopping everything else, cooks often use large knives, and even wide “cutters” ... And at home in my kitchen and my women knives with a long blade greater than 150 mm are never used !!! There are several of these (Accumulated over 20 years ...))) were in sets.). Lie new. Recently, one who cuts better, made a small one out of it. So at least it will be used ...
And about sharpening ... A professional chef just needs a knife that holds the sharpener for a long time, because he needs to chop as much as a day for my wife for three months!))) ...
And at home ... I can hardly imagine how my wife or daughter bring the cutting edge with a file.)))). And therefore, every six months or a year I take away all the knives, go to my basement and sharpen them, finishing this very edge. And they just stretch it once before cutting through a sharpener. And then knives are thrown into the next drawer, which "still cut badly anyway" As I fill it, I go to the basement)))). By the way, I took the disk drives - they really do a lot of killing. Left a few "dovetail" with an adjustable angle. And he ordered not to push - to stretch purely under the weight of a hand with a knife.
Quote: Valery
..And also the fact that it rusts ...
In general, initially you need to look WHAT the knife is made for. If you cut the kitchen, cut the tomatoes, then it should not be made from hard steels! It is better that the steel is viscous - then, a couple of times stretching it over the sharpener, we get a "scalpel" ... Which, however, is not enough for a long time ... But for a long time it is not necessary !!! And if every six months we sharpen it qualitatively at the right angle, then we only need to stretch it over the sharpener, adjusting the tip of the edge itself - and the “scalpel” is ready to fight tomatoes ...))))
And the “hunting” knives are another .. Here, I agree, we need solid steel !! The same torsion bar. Or from a rail saw blade.
... And, by the way, good ones come from valves. And do not rust ...

From the blade of the rail saw from the valves of the knives are fragile as do not remove residual stress from them. And the knives from the valves rust. They rust because the valves are made of the most ordinary heat-resistant steel and are coated with chrome on top, and this coating is mechanically destroyed during the manufacture of forgings, and also loses its luster that occurs when polishing the finished valve.
As for the kitchen knife for “fighting tomatoes”, I would advise you to look at the REAL cook knives, which, if they wanted to, made of mild steel are difficult to call. The steel there is also in the likeness of a torsion bar, it is very problematic to break such a knife, bending can only be done with red heat. In general, I have never seen that quality cook knives break (blades break), but handles break often.
And finally, about sharpening, disk and plate sharpeners for knives are nothing more than killers, not just cutting edges, but generally killers of knife blades. The best knife sharpener is a file with a small notch. Yes, the process is longer and not as comfortable as on a sharpener, but the result exceeds all expectations. At the entrance we get a "scalpel" and what does this "scalpel" do if you don’t try to cut stones with it and the other iron holds the grinding for a long time.
So there is no better torsion steel for the knife; in extreme cases, spring steel can be used.
Well, due to the fact that the torsion steel knives rust, so no one canceled the care of the knife, and the torsion steel rusts very reluctantly (especially polished).
The disadvantages of this knife can only be attributed to the fact that it is difficult to sharpen, but such a knife does not need sharpening at all often.

..And also the fact that it rusts ...
In general, initially you need to look WHAT the knife is made for.If you cut the kitchen, cut the tomatoes, then it should not be made from hard steels! It is better that the steel is viscous - then, a couple of times stretching it over the sharpener, we get a "scalpel" ... Which, however, is not enough for a long time ... But for a long time it is not necessary !!! And if every six months we sharpen it qualitatively at the right angle, then we only need to stretch it over the sharpener, adjusting the tip of the edge itself - and the “scalpel” is ready to fight tomatoes ...))))
And the “hunting” knives are another .. Here, I agree, we need solid steel !! The same torsion bar. Or from a rail saw blade.
... And, by the way, good ones come from valves. And do not rust ...
Quote: Dmitrij

Yes, given that it works on twisting, it’s probably not realistic to break it)

Well, actually, if you set the task to break the torsion bar, then this is possible)))) But if you do not strive for such achievements, then the knife turns out to be very durable. The disadvantages of this knife can only be attributed to the fact that it is difficult to sharpen, but such a knife does not need sharpening at all often.
Author
Quote: Dvulikiy
As noted earlier, metal from a circular saw blade for knives is not very suitable.
The best material is torsion bar.
For those who are going to throw slippers and rotten tomatoes at me with the question: “Where can I get a torsion bar and what is it?” - I’ll immediately explain that torsion bar is an element of the suspension of almost any car manufactured since the 60s of the last century, by far the most a frequently encountered type of torsion bar is a stabilizer of lateral stability, which in a second-hand condition can be found in abundance at a more or less large service station or in almost any HSC.
True, for the manufacture of a knife blacksmithing will be required, but they are not particularly difficult. And the most interesting thing is that there is no need to temper the torsion bar after blacksmithing.
The result is a strong, well-sharpened knife. The main advantage of such a knife is that it is impossible to break it, although the glass member will not fool for long, either break or lose))))


Yes, given that it works on twisting, it’s probably not realistic to break it)
As noted earlier, metal from a circular saw blade for knives is not very suitable.
The best material is torsion bar.
For those who are going to throw slippers and rotten tomatoes at me with the question: “Where can I get a torsion bar and what is it?” - I’ll immediately explain that torsion bar is an element of the suspension of almost any car manufactured since the 60s of the last century, by far the most a frequently encountered type of torsion bar is a stabilizer bar, which in a second-hand condition can be found in abundance at a more or less large service station or in almost any GSK.
True, for the manufacture of a knife blacksmithing will be required, but they are not particularly difficult. And the most interesting thing is that there is no need to temper the torsion bar after blacksmithing.
The result is a strong, well-sharpened knife. The main advantage of such a knife is that it is impossible to break it, although the glass member will not fool for long, either break or lose))))
In the oven, he lets go ... And this is normal, actually ... 200 degrees for this is normal ... That's just "tempering" in tin cans, and then releasing three times what is not tempered!))) )) ... Yes, and even from bad steel ... Which, I'm not sure that it will be tempered in the furnace .... Thinks, if you drank, it means cool!))) ....
Well, about the painting ....)))) .... Gee-gee ...
Wow, damn it !! ... Kinder surprise with your own hands. It remains to make an egg out of papier mache, - a sheath, like. At home, replace the light bulb, do not forget to paint it too. Once in the oven you are tempering, then why don't you use it as a hearth? Would forged from the valve ... In your mahal there are no specialists at all, or what? There was nobody to slap you in the head?
Quote: Valery
. So I imagine how they go to ducks who have undergone special training in sabotage and intelligence ...))))

Axaxax)))
Well, painting a knife is a show off.

It immediately becomes clear that the knife was not made for work, but for "playing around" ... Survivor, damn it ...
... It's like on one site hunters saw a discussion on a dozen pages about how best to camouflage a section of the trunk from the forearm to the front sight! )))) They pushed there the version of a special vinyl film that you can buy from only one company. And do not take it from others, because there are no anti-corrosive additives in the glue, firstly, and, most importantly, the rest, albeit matte, slightly glare if the sun is bright ....
... So I can imagine how they go to ducks who have undergone special training in sabotage and intelligence ...))))
Steel - bullshit, sharpening - bullshit, hardening - bullshit. Garda, the pen is normally made. Although, to put the handle on silicone, this is not a buzz. Clay, as for me, is better. Usually, a pen is first inserted and then processed. It's the other way around. So carefully drill a hole in the handle, you need to be able to. And it would be better to make a metal plate at the bottom of the handle flush with the handle itself so that nothing sticks out. It can rub. Well, painting a knife is a show off.
The process itself is clear to me - this is a vacation. (Well ... I mean, a person doesn’t go on vacation, but the steel needs to be “released" to relieve internal stresses. High-carbon steels, when quenched, heat up to a little more than a thousand degrees (yellow glow), they are kept for several minutes for uniform heating (otherwise will lead) and cool in oil. After that they need to be let go - soak for an hour or two at 200 degrees. This removes internal stress and significantly reduces the fragility of the part. Otherwise, such a knife will fly apart when it falls onto a concrete floor))))

But here then why ?? What is there to let go? He potted up to a thousand in a tin ??? Yes, and steel is not important ...
And, all the more, why the heck do this many times?
Author
In general, in many articles this joke with an oven and a temperature of 200 degrees for an hour ... What is the point, I do not catch.
a kind of crosshair, as they used to do with swords.

This is called the guard, Dmitry ....
The author only thinks that he hardened the knife in a tin can .... He did not even glow red when he dipped it in oil !!!! And even a red glow is not enough for hardening ...
... And more ... Why did he roast it in the oven? Did he let him go ??? What for???
Probably the Americans .... They often like to buy a new tool, put on brand new work clothes, and, ruining expensive material, make themselves a stool. And terribly proud of it later ...
... Here and here - I gathered myself a knife painted with paint from bad unhardened steel, sprinkled it with a vedeshka and joy - full pants !!! A true couch-urban survivor !!!
... Damn ... I would kill for a disk ....)))))
And, most importantly, in vain! By analogy, they think that steel is very good there ... But it is not at all very good! ... It's just the bearing part ... Not the cutting tool itself ... I tried to make a drill out of a worn out ... Steel is rather weak .. .

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