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Simple puller


Good day to all. In this article, I’ll tell you how the author of the channel “Mr SunY” assembled such a puller do it yourself.




Materials:
Steel square
Simple puller

Bolts

Nuts

Washers

Hairpin M12

The nut is ordinary. M12

The nut is extended. M12.

And a steel strip.

Instruments:
Angle grinder
Cutting wheel
Petal circle
Drill
Welding machine
Electrodes
Spanners.

The author cut off two pieces from the square.

Then he made the markup, as in the photo.



After deleted unnecessary.




Then he measured and cut off two blanks from the strip.





After folding the blanks as shown in the photo.



On the strip marked the place under the mount.


Then he made holes.



After noted and made holes in the square.




Next collects the details.


By laying the elongated nut on the strip between the squares.

And setting the second piece of strip on top.

Fixes all parts with nuts, not forgetting to put washers on them.


Something like this.

After installed the hairpin.


Cut off excess from bolts.


He welded the nut to the strip, holding it with a stud.

Then removing the hairpin, he sewed one of its edges under the cone.

And on the second edge, I installed a regular nut.

Then he welded it to the hairpin.

Next, set the pin in place. That's all, the puller is ready.

And now the test.







This puller copes with its task no worse than a store.

And that’s all for me. Thank you all and see you soon!
6
7.5
5.8

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7 comments
Holy Guest
The end from the port to get to piss, cool to get
The nut is extended. M12.


True, this “elongated” one has taken root as a “gourmet” instead of a “gourmet”, but nevertheless, in a technical article, I would call it correctly - “connecting”.
How did the new bearing end up on an absolutely rusty piece of iron? The last photo shows that the "seat" is also rusty.

And like, someone else can doubt that he was just put there for shooting? This rubbish will not remove the old, already sticky bearing ... I think that even people far from iron understand this ...
I, however, do not think they are showing a real tool, but a "method of manufacturing" ...
Puller, to be honest, trash. There is not the most important element - the stopper, so that the legs do not part.

But I do not agree with this. It is enough after tightening to tighten the upper bolts. And then he "tenses" himself and stalls ...
I have several factory pullers, and they are all the same. And never had a problem with that.
Why, even an almost completely cut square, in any case, will “survive” the thread on the “plasticine” nut and stud.
After deleted unnecessary.
He deleted the right there more than the unnecessary!))))
Welded a nut to the strip, holding a hairpin.

He protected the thread with a pin, but did not hold ... When welding any nuts, it is MANDATORY to protect the thread! One drop of scale that has flown in - and the thread will need to be driven away with a tap !!! And in this case, this will not work either, because even in soft MP3 electrodes the metal is still harder than this “plasticine” nut from the famous “steel-3”.))))
And now the test.

How did the new bearing end up on an absolutely rusty piece of iron? The last photo shows that the "seat" is also rusty.
Puller, to be honest, trash. There is not the most important element - the stopper, so that the legs do not part.
It would be so simple, it would not be so difficult, all the rib of rigidity was grinded off, so only plastic gears from toy motors could be pulled in.

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