Lighting in the utility rooms, as a rule, is mounted according to the residual principle - a bare bulb on the wire. The rooms are not basic, not comfortable. Similarly, we were covered in our workshop. Workshop, originally erected as a place for winter fuss with pieces of wood, it was gradually converted for small desktop work - decorative glass, experiments with electricity, etc. Lighting, of course, also underwent certain changes - local lighting appeared around workplaces. Here, for example, a workplace for working on a grinding machine (glass). It is a small table convenient for sitting. Here stands homemade grinder with diamond tools washed by water and for periodic grinding of hard-to-reach spots - a drilling machine tuned to maximum speed with a clamped diamond tool of small diameter. When working, a piece of sponge moistened with water is pressed against it. A home-made machine has its own lighting, no drill. On the free edge of the table, you often have to lay out glass trifles to fit the edges - while general lighting is also insufficient.
The easiest way was to slightly alter the nearby general lighting bulb - it was moved and lowered as far as possible to the machines so that the light did not blind the eyes, the bulb was equipped with the simplest tin lampshade.
The lampshade came out like that ... (with fingers moving in the air) vintage. When looking at it, the virgin soil comes up, the battle for the harvest and the GOELRO plan. You know, a tin cone swinging on a pillar under the gusts of wind in a winter blizzard. Yes.
What was needed for the manufacture
A set of bench tools, metal scissors. Marking tool, mallet. Tool for installing blind rivets, rivets themselves. Electrical installation tool, hair dryer. Wires, thermotube, little things.
Having screwed a lamp into a cartridge, I tried on them with the legs of a compass. It turned out that at the maximum opening of the drawing compass, the hypothetical lampshade manages to completely hide the lamp from the observer located on the side. Very well. He made a paper scan of the cone - from several drafts of A4 format glued a suitable cloth and drew a circle. A bit did not fit, but it does not matter. Choosing the angle of the cut sector, gradually increasing it, it was possible to find a suitable cone shape. That is - cut a small slice, turned, tried on the lamp. No - the cone is too flat; the lamp does not close. Cut a little more, turned, tried on. Already better, but still not. From the third iteration, everything worked out.
Of course, you can go the scientific way - calculate the design and draw a well-known school method. In addition, you can use special tables with ready-made values of the scan elements for any occasion, for example [1].
For the manufacture of the lampshade, I used thin sheet aluminum - an old roofing sheet, inherited after dismantling the old house from the neighbors. The sheet turned out to be with a piece of the rafter system - he pulled out rusty nails with pliers, a stick on his knee and into the furnace.
I found a place in the corner of the sheet for the center of circular sweep, poked with a core so that the leg of the compass would not move out. Drawn a circle, cut out with scissors for metal.
I washed the workpiece.
I put paper on a metal mug and marked out the cut-out sector, added a petal of 20 mm wide to it for overlapping edges - a place for rivets. Cut with scissors for metal. I marked out the circle in the center, picking up the corresponding hole on the template ruler. Cut out also with scissors. Inconvenient, but possible.
The overlapping petal slightly bent, holding the bend line with clamps between two even planks. On the second edge I marked, tipped and drilled rivet spots. He parted and fixed the caliper legs by 10 mm (half the width of the petal), drew a line along the edge. Evenly spaced places 3 rivets.
Hands bent the sweep into the cone, aligned and secured the lower edge of the overlap, secured it with a powerful metal clothespin. I drilled a through hole, set a rivet. Aligned the upper edge of the overlap, put the rest of the rivets. He worked the edges with a medium skin - dull the sharp edges.
The light bulb inside, although LED, is at least three times effective, and the plastic base with PSU is warming pretty much - you need little ventilation.
Rovnenko put an empty tin can of suitable diameter to the top, and outlined with a pencil its edge. Evenly marked the centers of the ventilation openings - two, opposite each other, two more, rotated 90 ° relative to the first. The right angle is easy to set aside by eye and pretty accurate. Divide the resulting segments between points in half. Also by eye. It turns out very quickly and without fancy.
To punch and drill, I had to whip up a kind of remote emphasis - screw a solid block to the bed with a clamp. Like tinsmiths.
It remains to assemble the electric part. To the screw terminals of the E27 cartridge, non-thick wires with a monolithic aluminum core are connected in a standard way. The stripped ends of the wires are formed by a loop and clamped under the washers of the screws. The lampshade is put on a wire over the cartridge. So that over time, the thin edge of the lampshade does not rub the insulation of the wires, armor them when exiting the cartridge - isolate them with two layers of heat pipe, put an aluminum sleeve on top of it. The sleeve was rolled from the same blank-sheet on the drill shank ø8mm. Secured the sleeve with another piece of thermotube.
Assembled a lamp. He screwed the lamp, jammed the lampshade on top. In the place he specified the length of the wires, cut off the excess. I attached the wires to the wooden ceiling of the workshop with a tin bracket, protecting each wire individually with a vinyl tube.I connected the lamp to the existing wiring with spring terminals.
Babay Mazay, December, 2019